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Naturally Aspired PC WaterCooling Club

EastCoasthandle said:
No, I am not starting myths nor made any false claim. The link is self explanatory. And, because I had the pump for some time I can offer my personal experience with it. Besides, offering a bit of caution can go a long way when you water cool :toast:

However, lets look at the PDF of a D5 (for example):

PDF


Lets look at a DDC-3.2 (for example):
A DDC-3.2 has a Max. system temperature 140° F. PDF

Basically, regardless of how the pump heats up, if you want it to operate at it's full potential it's best to keep it cool.
Click to expand...
My DDC-1's never shutdown, even under the abuse of cooling a TEC, and I think I know why. My rad is always after my blocks. The rad is the last thing in the loop before the res. So my pumps are always getting water that's already cooled.

Even after being on for the last 48hrs straight, my DDC-1 isn't even warm to the touch.

I should note that there is no airflow on the pump at all. My setup isn't in a case, it's running on top of a table. lol.
 
ive been folding for like 3days and my pump isnt hot or warm and its after the blocks, with 1.552 volts :D room at 78F
 
Ok fellas a question again.

I have a 2X120 Danger Den Black Ice radiator, and I am purchasing 4 of these for a possible push/pull setup.
Im going to experiment with the fan setup a bit!

I want to put my rad on top with 4 "risers" to get the fans off the top of the case, and really dont like the looks of the radbox.

Is there a kit to get "legs" to support the rad a couple of inches above the case?
Im assuming it is going to be a creative trip to the Hardware store!:D
 
yeah more then likely your going to the hardware store

and the screw are 6-32 the thread I think you need and some nylon spacers

I used the nuts that come with the screws to hold down the fans cuz they where lil to long but I think they make 3" that whould be what your looking for cuz you wanted at least 2" of clearance
 
sneekypeet said:
Ok fellas a question again.

I have a 2X120 Danger Den Black Ice radiator, and I am purchasing 4 of these for a possible push/pull setup.
Im going to experiment with the fan setup a bit!

I want to put my rad on top with 4 "risers" to get the fans off the top of the case, and really dont like the looks of the radbox.

Is there a kit to get "legs" to support the rad a couple of inches above the case?
Im assuming it is going to be a creative trip to the Hardware store!:D
Click to expand...

I would take the rad with you to the hardware store. That way you can get an idea of how long a screw you need :p
I've seen people use long standoffs (just like the ones for your motherboard tray). You can check with you local hardware store to see if they sell it and it threads properly onto the rad.
 
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Off to the hardware store I go then. I have some ideas already , just didnt know if there was a pre-packaged solution. Thanks fellas
 
eastcoast do you actually think we would see those kind of temps in W/C? not likely, unless of failure i could NEVER see temps getting that high

ive had my rig up and running for over 6mths straight and my idle temp would only be ~3c higher than the first day i fired it up.

dont take advantage of the n00bs

:toast:
 
intel igent said:
eastcoast do you actually think we would see those kind of temps in W/C? not likely, unless of failure i could NEVER see temps getting that high

ive had my rig up and running for over 6mths straight and my idle temp would only be ~3c higher than the first day i fired it up.

dont take advantage of the n00bs

:toast:
Click to expand...

I have been water cooling for a few years now (since owning a P4). Based on your posts I have never had idle temps go up 3C just on it's own like that (keeping in mind ambient temps). I believe you are doing a disservice when you advise anyone against some level of caution when water cooling. Regardless of how this makes you feel I stand by my decision on the use of caution (IE actively cooling the pump). Therefore, there is no need to continue arguing about this we simple agree to disagree.
 
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Hey guys. I'm thinking of taking the watercooling plunge, but I want to start off slow. I want just a CPU setup right now, and I'll be adding a full coverage 3870 block in the future, and maybe a NB block too. I want to see what I can get out of my 5000+BE(s), because the cooler I've got now has them in the mid 50's at 1.5V. What would your recommendations be? I want to try to spend somewhere under $200 on the CPU setup for now.

Restrictions:

  • Dual 120mm Radiator (I'll attach it on the interior of my case, and cut for a second one later)
  • Socket AM2
  • I want it quiet - I should be able to sleep with it under my bed
  • I like the look of bare copper, so a plexi topped block would be sweet!

Thanks in advance guys.
 
DanishDevil said:
Hey guys. I'm thinking of taking the watercooling plunge, but I want to start off slow. I want just a CPU setup right now, and I'll be adding a full coverage 3870 block in the future, and maybe a NB block too. I want to see what I can get out of my 5000+BE(s), because the cooler I've got now has them in the mid 50's at 1.5V. What would your recommendations be? I want to try to spend somewhere under $200 on the CPU setup for now.

Restrictions:

  • Dual 120mm Radiator (I'll attach it on the interior of my case, and cut for a second one later)
  • Socket AM2
  • I want it quiet - I should be able to sleep with it under my bed
  • I like the look of bare copper, so a plexi topped block would be sweet!

Thanks in advance guys.
Click to expand...

Here is one person's experience with a plexi top:
Post

Suggestion:
-Swiftech MCR220-QP
-FuZion
-7/16" ID Tubing
-MCP655 Pump
-2, 120mm fans. You can pick which fans you want here as there are few to choose from.
You could go with 120mm Scythe SFF21E S-FLEX™ Case Fan (49 CFM/20.1 dBA)
OR
Yate Loon D12SL-12 Case Fan - Black (47 CFM, 28 dBA) which are cheaper

What I haven't included so far is the use of either a reservoir or T-line as I am not sure which way you want to go. You are going to have to decide on that one.
 
I'm going to use a reservoir, as I've read that bleeding a t-line is a b*tch. I'll probably grab the Swiftech micro res for now.

I'll be powering my radiators with ACRyan fans rated at 77CFM at 29dBA turned down to my liking.

I've read really good things about the ThermoChill PA 120.2 (and .3) Radiators. How do they compare to the Swiftech QP's?

And is that tubing specifically chosen, or will any 7/16ID tubing work? I might try to pick up some of the smaller stuff locally so I don't get gouged with shipping costs. And is Sidewinder based in California? I hate having to pay tax online...
 
DanishDevil said:
I'm going to use a reservoir, as I've read that bleeding a t-line is a b*tch. I'll probably grab the Swiftech micro res for now.

I'll be powering my radiators with ACRyan fans rated at 77CFM at 29dBA turned down to my liking.

I've read really good things about the ThermoChill PA 120.2 (and .3) Radiators. How do they compare to the Swiftech QP's?

And is that tubing specifically chosen, or will any 7/16ID tubing work? I might try to pick up some of the smaller stuff locally so I don't get gouged with shipping costs. And is Sidewinder based in California? I hate having to pay tax online...
Click to expand...

ThermoChill PA120.2 cool better then the Swiftech. I offered the Swiftech as it's cheaper but should perform a little better then HW when low powered fans are used, restriction, etc. Take a look at this post for comparison.

I only provided that ID/OD tubing size as an option. You can go with what you like. However, that tubing size does offer the best bend radius when using 1/2" barbs (when I looked it up). Also, someone did a review of tubing sizes and came to the same conclusion found here.
:toast:
 
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Man, I gotta get me some PA120.3 rads. lol.
 
I still wasn't sure about the head needed for a EK supreme.

So i sen't them an e-mail too ask, this is they'r answer.

Hi!

I suggest about 1,7 m is enough.

Best regards, Eddy

So that's a lot less than i tought around 5.58 feet if my calculations are right.

Considering that there will also be a radiator and reservoir be in the loop, the pump should produce a bit more.

But i think a WCZ Laing DDC-1T Pump would be enough. 1 for each loop.

I could also overvolt them to a plus.

Technische Daten

- Spannung: 12 Volt
- Nennleistung: 10 Watt
- Förderleistung: ca. 400 Liter/h
- Druckleistung: 3,8 mHead
- Länge o. Anschl.: ca. 62 mm
- Breite: ca. 62 mm
- Höhe: ca. 38 mm
- Strom-Kabellänge: ca. 500 mm
- Gewicht: ca. 220 Gramm

Cost 48.69 Euro each.

So i made up my mind two of these should be enough, i think.

Maybee i'll make a different top for them like explaind on this and other forums, then it will be oke.
 
@ MD : those pumps will be fine with or without aftermarket tops in your proposed loop

@ eastcoast : yes my loop after running steady for months will raise its idle by ~3c. try yourself on your loop you will see what i mean, similar to "idling" a car. within regards to your comments on pump heat/cooling all i can say is :shadedshu some active cooling COULD be beneficial for persons using DDC style pumps in confined spaces, but NOT ALL pumps require active cooling.

anyone new to aftermarket cooling (whatever it may be air/water/exotic) have a look here as well for further info

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=10


:toast:
 
Finally, i then have al the info i need.

Solution,

1 Loop EK Supreme, Thermochill PA120.2, Thermaltake Aquabay M3, Laing DDC-1T.

2 Loop ( Gpu block ) Thermochill PA120.2, Thermaltake Aquabay M3, Laing DDC-1T.

Thank you al for the info, im very gratefull.

When i have the setup completed, ill post my information about the WC.

:roll::roll::roll:
 
Are you sure about the aquabays?, they look like they have captive thin hose connectors (based on this review on them), have you looked for others with regular G1/4 threads (i assume by you using Thermochills that you'll be running either 7/16 or 1/2 hose)
 
I see you are right, damn.

Oh well ill start googling again.

Thanks.;)
 
[MD]Phantom said:
I see you are right, damn.

Oh well ill start googling again.

Thanks.;)
Click to expand...


Laing DDC w/ Petra'sTech DDCT-01s Top Combo
Max. Head Pressure: 18.91 ft (5.76m)
Max. Discharge: 246.6 GPH (933.5 LPH)

Laing DDC-3.2 (18W)/Swiftech MCP355
Maximum Head: 15 ft (4.5 m)
Maximum flow: ~ 120 GPH (454 LPH)

Swiftech MCP355 w/Custom Delrin DDC Pump Top
Maximum Head: 12.92 ft (3.94m)
Maximum flow: ~ 251.4 GPH - (951.65 LPH)

AquaXtreme 50Z-DC12 Inline 12V DC Pump
Maximum Head: 11.81 ft. (3.6 m)
Maximum flow: ~ 185 GPH (700 LPH)

Laing D5 Vario/Swiftech MCP655
Maximum Head: 11.48 ft. (3.35 m)
Maximum flow: ~ 317 GPH (1200 LPH)

Eheim HPPS i - 12v DC
Maximum Head: 10.17 ft (3.1m)
Maximum flow: ~ XXX GPH

Hydor SELTZ L 45 II Water Pump
Maximum Head: 8.9 ft (2.7m)
Maximum flow: ~ 950 GPH

Danger Den MAG II - LE
Maximum head: 8.2 ft (2.5m)
Maximum flow: 567 l/hr (150 GPH)

Danger Den CSP-MAG 12V DC Pump
Maximum head: 7.545 ft 2.3 M
Maximum flow: 9 l/min (143 GPH)

Hydor SELTZ L 35 II Water Pump
Maximum Head: 6.6 ft (80 inches)
Maximum flow: ~ 450 GPH

Thermaltake P500 12V Pump (CL-W0132)
Maximum Head: 5.9 ft (1.8m)
Maximum flow: ~ 500L/h

This is all I could find on some of the pumps used so far. I am not sure what is available in your area.
 
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F water I'm buying a phase LOL.
 
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Got a few more questions:

  1. Any reason to not get this pump over the regular MCP655? Is this one not adjustable?
    http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpuw.html
  2. How exactly are pump relays set up and what's the purpose of them?
  3. With the DTek Fuzion, should I get the nozzles? (I assume yes).
  4. With the Swiftech Radiator, should I get the Swiftech or DTek High Flow 1/2"ID Barbs?
 
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DanishDevil said:
Any reason to not get this pump over the regular MCP655? Is this one not adjustable?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpuw.html

And, how exactly are pump relays set up and what's the purpose of them?

And with the DTek Fuzion, should I get the nozzles? (I assume yes).
Click to expand...

well at xtremesystems theres a test that the MCP655-B set at 4 but shows to be lower to the MCP655 with the nob that goes 1-5 its only $10 more for the Swiftech MCP655

pump relays idk I dont use one just the 4pin to the psu

on the nozzles yes for the washer that it comes with and it depends how many blocks your going to have in the loop to which one to use
 
Well there's an option on Sidewinder Computers to add a nozzle kit to the Fuzion for like $7.

And I posted a few more questions ^^
 
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