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Naturally Aspired PC WaterCooling Club

Unfortunately no, electrons are always present. But if there is a constant power supply thing's move along very quickly! There is a reason you don't see much if any aluminum in PC watercooling have a look at that link i posted and google some "watercooling corrosion" or similar see what ya get
 
Yes it can only occur if there is an exchange of electrons so if the Aluminum is not in contact with water (or worse direct contact with another metal) then there is no problem.
As long as you don't have Aluminum IN THE LOOP you are safe.
 
Okay, but the radiator is solid aluminum, so it is in direct contact with the water. So the aluminum radiator would eventually develop a hole and leak?

That's not the thing I'm worried about though, since the radiator is outside of the case and would drip onto impermeable ceramic tile and damage nothing. What I'm worried about is the copper blocks getting plated with aluminum and being ruined.
 
Like i said you need to do regular flushe's and i would suggest also using CLR when you flush to get the oxidization out of the system. i would flush evry 6 - 8 week's and use distilled water with some glycol. Just my $0.02
 
Even the tubes are made out of Aluminum? If that is so just be sure to do regular flushes ( 2 months or so) and use an anti corrosion agent and you'll be fine.
 
i7 3930 + LCS 7970

Well, finally got my loop finished. Apart from the smallest coil whine that doesn't bother me above gaming sounds it's pretty much where i want to be. Temps on i7 3930 at a small oc (4GHz) are barely breaking 50 during BF3 and looping unigine on max settings 7970 rises to 43 degrees (at 1150 core).

The ludicrously large reservoir is what helps keep temps lower imo. That and a quad 120 in the base and a single 120 in the front.

View attachment 46625

View attachment 46626

View attachment 46627
 
Looks good, be sure to jiggle it a bit once the air in the tubing is gone, just to be sure it isnt trapped in any of the blocks;)
 
I actually get a really annoying back flow from my single rad back to the cpu block (highest point on loop except for res). It gets pushed back into the single rad when it boots up but it's hard to jiggle a TJ07 around. :laugh: Just read your specs, at least I don't have to jiggle a TJ11 :twitch:

Each time more air flows into the res so it'll go over time. Doesn't affect temps which is good (only takes a minute or so for air to move away from block).
 
I get a bit of a gurgle every time I turn mine on. Luckily for me I had a rather large area to tumble the TJ11 around in when I filled the loop:D
 
the54thvoid said:
Well, finally got my loop finished. Apart from the smallest coil whine that doesn't bother me above gaming sounds it's pretty much where i want to be. Temps on i7 3930 at a small oc (4GHz) are barely breaking 50 during BF3 and looping unigine on max settings 7970 rises to 43 degrees (at 1150 core).

The ludicrously large reservoir is what helps keep temps lower imo. That and a quad 120 in the base and a single 120 in the front.

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46625&stc=1&d=1334222461

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46626&stc=1&d=1334222485

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46627&stc=1&d=1334222501
Click to expand...

Pics are down. I'd love to see them, as it sounds like you copied my loop :pimp:
 
t_ski said:
Pics are down. I'd love to see them, as it sounds like you copied my loop :pimp:
Click to expand...

My 'copy' would not do your loop justice sir :toast:
 
Weird, I can see them...

Does this one work?

full pic.jpg
 
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I'll post the other two pics for bling factor then using techpowerup.org image hosting as well. Sorry if this means double pic posts. We don't spend thousands of our hard earned cash to not share :laugh:

res.jpg


cpu.gfx.jpg
 
Yeah, I can see those much better. Thanks :toast:

Here's how mine looked (at least before taking the 6970's and waterblocks out and replacing them with two air-cooled 7970's):

newloop1.jpg


newloop2.jpg
 
Hmm... I know you'll get those new blocks on water soon enough t-ski.

Incidentally Sneeky, I got the last of the air out by lying it on its side and booting up the pump. Put an inch of air into the reservoir!

Here's more, this time with guts on display.

PCopen2.jpg


PC open1.jpg
 
EK water blocks, custom 680/7970 blocks coming

Awesome news from EK water blocks:

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index....cleid=141&cntnt01origid=17&cntnt01returnid=17

News
Four new Full-cover water blocks available soon - 07/05/2012



EK is currently developing new water blocks for the newest and most popular graphics cards on the market, namely ASUS GeForce GTX 680 DirectCU II, MSI R7970 Lightning, reference design AMD Radeon HD 7870 as well as referece design nVidia GeForce GTX 690.



All Full-Cover water blocks will feature excellent cooling and hydraulic performance, pre-installed standoffs for safe and easy installation. More details will be available close to release. The products are expected to be widely available for purhcase in early June.



- Your EK Team
Click to expand...

I'm hoping a GTX 670 CUII is also in the works. That will be my ideal choice, if prices stay favourable.
 
Love the EK I got for the HD7950. Kicks ass in temperatures and looked really good while doing it!
 
I'm going to start WCing soon. Some of the parts are here, and the others will be arriving over the next 2 weeks. When flushing the radiators, should I flush the CPU/GPU blocks as well, and, is it okay to use ordinary hot tap water?
 
razaron said:
I'm going to start WCing soon. Some of the parts are here, and the others will be arriving over the next 2 weeks. When flushing the radiators, should I flush the CPU/GPU blocks as well, and, is it okay to use ordinary hot tap water?
Click to expand...

Not sure but if you do flush with tap water, I'd then rinse through once with distilled water. If you buy ordinary de-ionised water from a local garage you'll see it's dirt cheap. Point of avoiding tap water is the impurities in it as well as it's potential to corrode.

And with your loop, make sure you make a drain point low down in it.
 
I may end up doing my first WC build late this year, Here are the parts I'm looking at to cool.
1. Whats a good Rad.
2. Good Res
3. Tubing Whats good size? Color to go with parts?
4. Etc. parts
I'm just not for sure on any parts to get with it. I want to know some very good rads and Res. I was looking at the MCRES Micro Rev2 Reservoir I can fit a 240 rad up top. can be any thickness with this case as the MB lays flat on the bottom.
Was thinking about putting the Res on top of the HD cage.

Also looking at using the Swiftech Lok-Seal
Swiftech Apogee Drive II CPU Water-Block with Integrated Pump
BitFenix Prodigy

Only plan on cooling the CPU. GPU maybe later.
Corsair fans for Rad, Cougar for case.
Capture087.jpg

Capture085258.jpg

Capture086.jpg


Thanks everyone!!:rockout:
 
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If you go with the Prodigy, you will lose the 5.25" bay when using a 240mm rad. You will have to go with an internal res (not a bay res), and I recommend something like the EK Multioption series (big as you can fit). General rule is that a thicker rad will cool better (higher TDP CPUs) - not as critical if you're using a 65W CPU, but more important if using a 95W like the 3770K.

If you choose to use colored tubing, that's fine, and you'll find it much easier to cleanup after than using clear tubes and dyes.
 
t_ski said:
If you go with the Prodigy, you will lose the 5.25" bay when using a 240mm rad. You will have to go with an internal res (not a bay res), and I recommend something like the EK Multioption series (big as you can fit). General rule is that a thicker rad will cool better (higher TDP CPUs) - not as critical if you're using a 65W CPU, but more important if using a 95W like the 3770K.

If you choose to use colored tubing, that's fine, and you'll find it much easier to cleanup after than using clear tubes and dyes.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the good info.
I don't even need my DVD drive. Do you know any good Rads? I'm not for sure if the CPU block is copper or aluminum, but I do know your not supposed to mix them.
 
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