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Question test HDD files

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I have 4 units of 2.5" HDD + USB3.0 enclosure case with the same files, once a year I power these drives
HDDs are media that data gets corrupted easily even during storage? Is it necessary to run a corruption test at least once a year? Which test is fast, efficient, doesn't heat up and stress the drive and doesn't require copying the files to the PC?
 
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HDDs are media that data gets corrupted easily even during storage?
Not really, no.

Is it necessary to run a corruption test at least once a year?
Might as well, though probably not exactly necessary.

Which test is fast, efficient, doesn't heat up and stress the drive and doesn't require copying the files to the PC?
SMART check via CrystalDiskInfo. Go from there. For static data you might want to use tools that will compare files to generated checksums, like this one:
Worrying about “heating up and stressing the drive” is silly, though. The drive working properly would not care. If it ISN’T the SMART check will already let you know.
 
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Yes, the surface of unused HDDs can get demagnetised, leading to data corruption. It's probably enough to power them on every couple of months and run a surface scan, but other people might have better ideas. I'm waiting for some answers, too. :)

Not really, no.


Might as well, though probably not exactly necessary.


SMART check via CrystalDiskInfo. Go from there. For static data you might want to use tools that will compare files to generated checksums, like this one:
Worrying about “heating up and stressing the drive” is silly, though. The drive working properly would not care. If it ISN’T the SMART check will already let you know.
SMART checks aren't the most reliable info on a drive's condition, imo. I've had HDDs die on me without any sign or warning in SMART. I've found it's usually the controller or mechanical parts that die, which SMART knows little about.

I agree with the part on heat. There's nothing to be afraid of in that regard. If anything, HDDs are unhappy in extreme cold (below 10 ˚C), rather than extreme hot (50-60 ˚C) conditions.
 
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SMART checks aren't the most reliable info on a drive's condition, imo. I've had HDDs die on me without any sign or warning in SMART. I've found it's usually the controller or mechanical parts that die, which SMART knows little about.
That’s why I said “go from there”. It’s a good no brainer first resort. Any serious mechanical failure would be an issue that’s harder to diagnose, but (usually) will manifest quite obviously.
 
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I have approximately 250GB of data on 4 units 2.5" HDD (2 x 500GB Seagate and 2 x 1TB WD and HGST units) + USB 3.0 case. I power these drives once a year, but there are some tests or copying the files to the PC can heat up and generate unnecessary stress on the HDD. Two HDDs were purchased on Aliexpress and the SMART was reset. I tested both with HDTune error scan and found no errors. The other HDDs were purchased on authorized websites i tested seatools ok.

there is a quick, accurate test that doesn't heat up the drive too much, doesn't stress the drive unnecessarily, and doesn't need to copy all the files to the PC to check if all the files are intact and without any corruption?
 
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HDDs are media that data gets corrupted easily even during storage?
Is it necessary to run a corruption test at least once a year?
Which test is fast, efficient, doesn't heat up and stress the drive and doesn't require copying the files to the PC?
Will echo previous posts to some degree but HDDs do not get corrupted easily unless you store these in badly suited conditions - humidity, magnetic or electric fields etc. Temperatures should not be a problem excluding extremes something like in Siberia at -40C or somewhere in the desert under sunlight. However, a year unpowered is long enough time frame to consider doing something. I would not worry about heating up or stressing the drive - these are meant to work like that.

As for a corruption test, that is something that is not quite clear to me. The tool @Onasi linked above does do comparison and thus should help with detecting (but not addressing) corruption but tools like that inherently need something to compare to - original files or stored CRC hashes that are not readily available unless you accounted for that when storing data in the first place.

Also, as surface can eventually be demagnetized, it could actually be useful to rewrite the files.
 
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I can't store HDDs for 1 year (12 months) without power? When I power up these 2.5" HDDs usually in December for a few minutes

demagnetization is easy to occur? Is it necessary to constantly rewrite the same files?
 
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there is a quick, accurate test that doesn't heat up the drive too much, doesn't stress the drive unnecessarily, and doesn't need to copy all the files to the PC to check if all the files are intact and without any corruption?
Quick is usually not accurate, and accurate is usually not quick. And I don't understand the concern with heat. Do you live in an extremely hot country/region?

I can't store HDDs for 1 year (12 months) without power? When I power up these 2.5" HDDs usually in December for a few minutes

demagnetization is easy to occur? Is it necessary to constantly rewrite the same files?
It's not "easy" to occur, but it can on HDDs that haven't been powered on for a long time. 1 year is... ehh... not the best. Also, a few minutes of power won't re-magnetise every sector.

I'd recommend powering them on every 2-4 months at least, and running a full surface scan. If any file gets flagged up as being corrupted, overwrite it from the same file from another drive.
 
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what test less heath and strees drive you recommend for intact no corrupt files?

here temperature varies 33-36C tropical country

it is critical to turn on 2.5" HDDs once a year for damage?

How many minutes does it take to energize the HDD to magnetize 1TB or 500GB?
 
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Chkdsk a couple times a year should be fine.

Nothing lasts forever. If you have data that is that critical, you should put it on some kind of long term media (tape or blu-ray) and start rotating your media, and keeping at least one copy off-site (cloud is very useful for this).

Realistically, data storage beyond 100 years is tricky.
 
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what test less heath and strees drive you recommend for intact no corrupt files?
"chkdsk C: /f /r" (where C is your drive letter) in the command prompt if you're running Windows. Do this once every couple of months.

here temperature varies 33-36C tropical country
Should still be fine if drive temperature is around the 50 ˚C range.

it is critical to turn on 2.5" HDDs once a year for damage?
Once a year is not enough, imo. Do the above every couple of months at least.

How many minutes does it take to energize the HDD to magnetize 1TB or 500GB?
It's not about the minutes. Your HDD is a spinning disc (or several of them) with magnetised sectors on it. The magnetic information gets written as a 0 or 1 by the read/write head. When you read information, the read/write head checks whether the sector contains a 0 or a 1, or a degraded value in between, in which case, it corrects it to either a 0 or 1. Data corruption occurs when sector information is so degraded that the head cannot determine whether it contains a 0 or a 1, in which case, the information contained in the sector is lost. When you're running the "chkdsk" command, you're forcing your drive to check every single sector one-by-one for 0s and 1s, and attempt to fix them in case of corruption. A HDD simply being turned on doesn't check for 0s and 1s in every sector.
 
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Can chkdsk corrupt any files on an intact HDD?

Doesn't chkdsk generate a lot of heat and stress on a 2.5" HDD?

I didn't know that a 2.5" HDD was so fragile that it would need to be stored for long periods of time, requiring this chkdsk every two months to maintain magnetization?

Are the full scan error tests I performed in HD Tune and SeaTools important for maintaining the magnetization of the HDD?
 
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Can chkdsk corrupt any files on an intact HDD?
No, but it can detect if a file/sector has already been corrupted.

Doesn't chkdsk generate a lot of heat and stress on a 2.5" HDD?
It generates as much heat as any prolonged read/write operation would. I still don't understand why you're so deeply concerned about heat. Believe me, it's not an issue 99% of the time.

I didn't know that a 2.5" HDD was so fragile that it would need to be stored for long periods of time, requiring this chkdsk every two months to maintain magnetization?
It's just the nature of HDDs. They're made to be used, not stored long-term.

Are the full scan error tests I performed in HD Tune and SeaTools important for maintaining the magnetization of the HDD?
I don't know about SeaTools (never heard of it), but the HD Tune full scan is essentially the same as the chkdsk command.
 
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hd tune 3 or 4 hours for full errorsscan on 1TB hdd or chkdsk same time in hours to be completed? the generic long test was the seatools test that I ran

are these tests mentioned above more efficient to detect corruption in a file than just opening the crystaldiskinfo SMART?

hdds 2.5" I thought that long term storage was more than a year and not power on every 2 months, for long term storage without power for large files over 100gb is SSD better?
 
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hd tune 3 or 4 hours for full errorsscan on 1TB hdd or chkdsk same time in hours to be completed?
It's pretty much the same thing, yes.

are these tests mentioned above more efficient to detect corruption in a file than just opening the crystaldiskinfo SMART?
Yes. SMART only detects events on a drive. If you attempt to read a file that is corrupted, that is an event that gets flagged up in SMART. If you're not attempting anything, and the drive is running idle, then there is no event to be flagged other than the number of operating hours.

hdds 2.5" I thought that long term storage was more than a year and not power on every 2 months, for long term storage without power for large files over 100gb is SSD better?
Yes and no. They work differently, although they aren't made for long-term storage, either.

If you're looking for long-term solutions that don't need to be powered on, consider M-discs (either BD or DVD flavours), or cloud storage.
 
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seatools genertic long test also takes a few hours. Is this a sign of a complete test on the HDD to detect corruption and also prevent HDD dismantling? Isn't it necessary to copy all the files to the PC and test?

MDisc DVD, little space, 4.7GB, bluray, MDisc and drive are expensive. I have approximately 250GB.
I don't have the money to keep the cloud. The only free one I use is Mega NZ, but the GB space is very limited.
 
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seatools genertic long test also takes a few hours. Is this a sign of a complete test on the HDD to detect corruption and also prevent HDD dismantling? Isn't it necessary to copy all the files to the PC and test?
What do you mean by dismantling? There's many things that can fail on a HDD, data corruption is only one of them. One can still die due to mechanical faults. For that, keeping separate copies of your files on separate drives is a good idea.

Copying over to your PC is not necessary.

MDisc DVD, little space, 4.7GB, bluray, MDisc and drive are expensive. I have approximately 250GB.
I don't have the money to keep the cloud. The only free one I use is Mega NZ, but the GB space is very limited.
I get 'ya. Just do the above - several copies over several HDDs, turn them on and do a surface test every couple of months, and you should be fine. :)
 
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seatools genertic long test also takes a few hours. Is this a sign of a complete test on the HDD to detect corruption and also prevent HDD dismantling? Isn't it necessary to copy all the files to the PC and test?

MDisc DVD, little space, 4.7GB, bluray, MDisc and drive are expensive. I have approximately 250GB.
I don't have the money to keep the cloud. The only free one I use is Mega NZ, but the GB space is very limited.
Just be ready to rotate cheap drives every 5 or 6 years.
 
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HDDs don't need to be powered up often (like, every few months). They're not SSDs.

Storage temperature is not a problem. Specs of a random 2.5" HDD:
25.png


The simplest and most effective way to check files: checksums / hashes.

There's a surprising lack of satisfying tools for that, but here's an old one that works well enough and is more comfortable than most.
It supports CRC and MD5, in the common textual formats (SFV and md5sum).

Advanced CheckSum Verifier by Irnis Haliullin


(And OP, no need to repeat your question, slightly reworded, every 2nd post.)
 
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The bigger problem is bit-rot. Even with multiple copies of files that is a risk. Spinning or SSD drives are both prone to having the issue.

@nandobadam - I assume it's not possible to connect all the drives together to a system at the same time?
If it is then SnapRAID is an option which you could use to perform Raid-5 type parity checking across all disks. The only downside (apart from being slightly complex) is that all drives in the set need to be available for it to work.

HDDs don't need to be powered up often (like, every few months). They're not SSDs.

Storage is not a problem. Specs of a random 2.5" HDD:
View attachment 377972

The simplest and most effective way to check files: checksums / hashes.

There's a surprising lack of satisfying tools for that, but here's an old one that works well enough and is more comfortable than most.
It supports CRC and MD5, in the common textual formats (SFV and md5sum).

Advanced CheckSum Verifier by Irnis Haliullin


(And OP, no need to repeat your question, slightly reworded, every 2nd post.)

This is sort of the approach I'd take but offers no help if you do have bit rot issues. There is no inherent recovery data.

At risk of complicating things;
I'd personally go the route of using PAR files to checksum and keep recovery data for the files.
The only downside to this is that it has some limits about the number of files and folders it can work across (although 32000+ files is the limit so plenty of scope) - it works best with archives of data (i.e. zip/rar/7z/etc. files) so that these can store any complex folder structure, etc.
It doesn't matter the archives are split in to large chunks - it's actually helpful as if one chunk is damaged it's easier to recover that than a whole massive single archive file.

You can use MultiPAR to manage this - simpler than SnapRAID and basically allows you to create a recovery file set for the contents of each drive separately. The GUI informs you how many files can be recovered if there is an issue, how big the recovery data set will be, etc.
I'd recommend you keep that recovery data elsewhere.

The end bonus of using MultiPAR is that it performs an integrity check when you open the recovery data set and will highlight and correct any errors as it goes. Even if an entire file is destroyed / missing, it can reconstruct it from the recovery and parity data.


It would be remiss not to mention that RAR/WinRAR has a similar parity feature built in to its standard (i.e. using parity data across archive volume files to detect/correct bit errors), but is not widely used. Of course it only applies to RAR file archives (so no use for files outside the RAR volume).... And of course you need to pay for it. So in that sense it is severely limited.

EDIT: Of course, you should really be running disk monitoring whilst do this. Just to see if uncorrectable error / sector reallocations are being done on the drive as it reads data.
I personally use archive files which are easier to scan and also keep an eye on drive performance so I can see if the drive is having to work harder to read data - the amount of internal ECC activity in any modern drive is actually quite scary - and track drive activity through windows performance monitoring, so for example (and I've pulled one of my archive drives out of storage a few months early):

1735745328826.png


Red line = transfer rate (x100MB/s), Blue line = Transfers per sec (x1000)

No data errors so looking OK... not amazing though - that dip in the middle shows the drive is clearly needing to think a bit harder to pull the data from that bit of the storage.... time for a refresh methinks...

1735745532759.png


Data re-written to drive and re-scanned read... nice and consistent (well as good as it's gonna get).

NOTE: when scanning at a file level, small/tiny files and big files mixed together will cause massive swings in read speed - can't be avoided and makes this method unsuitable in that scenario.
 
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How do you assess the possibility of corruption of a large rar file inside a 2.5" HDD inside a USB3.0 case stored for 1 year without use? Is it easy to occur if the temperature in my house varies between 33-36C and humidity 57-67%? I usually have 4 drives with the same files

1 year without use loses magnetization, mechanical and oxidation problems?

Do HDDs also use flash memory to retain firmware and BIOS? Is this a problem since flash memory is not recommended for archiving?

Is it necessary to test annually or every two months to check for any type of corruption?

Is a 2.5" HDD more likely to die when stored or in constant operation?
 
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How do you assess the possibility of corruption of a large rar file inside a 2.5" HDD inside a USB3.0 case stored for 1 year without use? Is it easy to occur if the temperature in my house varies between 33-36C and humidity 57-67%? I usually have 4 drives with the same files

1 year without use loses magnetization, mechanical and oxidation problems?

Do HDDs also use flash memory to retain firmware and BIOS? Is this a problem since flash memory is not recommended for archiving?

Is it necessary to test annually or every two months to check for any type of corruption?

Is a 2.5" HDD more likely to die when stored or in constant operation?
There is no 100% certainty, but there are steps you can take to mitigate data loss. They have all been mentioned above.
 
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How do you assess the possibility of corruption of a large rar file inside a 2.5" HDD inside a USB3.0 case stored for 1 year without use? Is it easy to occur if the temperature in my house varies between 33-36C and humidity 57-67%? I usually have 4 drives with the same files

1 year without use loses magnetization, mechanical and oxidation problems?
Honestly, risk of corruption is low, generally speaking - corruption being assumed for time based demagnetisation causing data loss / bit-rot.

What is more likely to be an issue is a defect. The risk of a defect is likely higher, be it mechanical, electronic or disk surface based.

Do HDDs also use flash memory to retain firmware and BIOS? Is this a problem since flash memory is not recommended for archiving?
HDDs tend to use flash memory to store firmware - Generally the type of flash memory they use is more akin to EPROM / motherboard flash memory which is much more reliable but has less programming cycles.... I believe most have got out of the habit of storing critical drive operating firmware on the drive storage itself (although some may store some drive operating / performance data in such a way in a non-user area).

Is it necessary to test annually or every two months to check for any type of corruption?
Yearly is probably fine - a lot of this depends on the value of the data to you and how much recovery scope / data duplicates you have in place.

Is a 2.5" HDD more likely to die when stored or in constant operation?

Depends on the drive. All drives have some 'limits' in their design in terms of being powered/started up, how long they should be running/spinning for, temperature, head operation time, etc..

With most standard 2.5 inch drives that are designed to work in a laptop scenario, the bigger issue (for me personally) usually means the firmware by design operates to save power to spin down so they are head parking often - drives have a defined 'loading/unloading' count for the head assembly usually as a SMART attribute, e.g.

1735746642433.png

Note: this is from a 3.5 inch drive but the idea is the same.

Back in one of the place I used to work about 10 years ago we got a bunch of SFF desktops that had Toshiba 2.5 inch drives - they worked fine for a few years but then batches started to fail similarly - the SMART attributes on the working ones were all fine except nearly all of them had reached / blown way past the threshold for the head load/unload cycles (and this was without any aggressive OS power management settings in place - the hard-drive spin down time was set to hours and the OS was set to not sleep).

On the flip side we also had some workstations running 2.5 inch WD Raptor drives which were powered on nearly 24/7 and were double the age and they worked fine (so long as they didn't fail soon after first use).
 
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that dip in the middle shows the drive is clearly needing to think a bit harder to pull the data
Isn't that just fragmentation?

EPROM / motherboard flash memory which is much more reliable but has less programming cycles
I think it goes together: more reliable = more cycles. Presumably NOR, and maybe SLC rather than MLC.
For example, MX25L6433F might be (I'm unsure, but I think it's the ballpark) a common BIOS flash chip. 20 year retention, 100K cycles.

How do you assess the possibility of corruption of a large rar file inside a 2.5" HDD inside a USB3.0 case stored for 1 year without use? Is it easy to occur if the temperature in my house varies between 33-36C and humidity 57-67%? I usually have 4 drives with the same files
Seriously?
 
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Isn't that just fragmentation?
Not for one set of archive zips that are written in one go to an empty drive...
I mean it's possible but the OS/drive would have to purposely decide to do that - and no there is no sector reallocation in place either. This was the drive needing to take a bit longer to read and the ECC engine to decide what is the proper data output.

This is exactly why I sometimes ask @W1zzard to do long-term storage tests on new SSD drives after say 6-12 months - a good way to see who's NAND is better and also who's drive ECC system is fast / accurate.
It's not even a difficult thing to test.
 
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