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Random short disconnects from mouse and keyboard

psyvc

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What mouse is it? What USB port is it connected to, and what is near the mouse?

If it has multiple wireless connections, what one are you using
It's the wired HyperX Pulsfire Haste. I've never damaged it, no kinked cables. It's connected to the USB 3.1 Gen 1 port that has the ethernet connection port above. On the back of the mobo. I have my wifi card, two other usb devices, and my headphone jack there.
This is now leading back to the original post where the mouse started to get these random disconnects, then followed here when all USB devices got disconnects, now we're BACK to the first problem.
I am still under warranty for the mouse

Just happened:
the mouse literally just stopped working on the 3.1 port, I tried to re plug it in, of course it didn't work. Plugged it into the 3.0 port in front of my case and it started to work again.
The disconnect windows sound only played once It was plugged in. So the disconnect sound played then the connected sound played.

What usually happens:
The mouse will disconnect for a short period of time usually around 5s sometimes even going longer for 10s+. Then it'll reconnect. disconnect sound plays then connect sound

There is zero sound when the mouse "disconnects" it's so weird
 
Last edited:

Mussels

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I'll look up the motherboard to find out which port that is
Some ports are from the CPU, some from the chipset, some from external controllers

Front USB ports for example are prone to issues as they're literally off an extension cable, and wireless 2.4GHz devices crap out if they're next to high speed USB 3.x transfers (they give off 2.4GHz interference)

Please fill out your system specs, as it slows things down so much to have to now hunt down what motherboard you have in your previous posts to find out this mystery USB ports location

Oh my fucking god
take the PC out and fix this IO shield, you're probably shorting the ports out
1671682379689.png



You literally have a piece of metal jammed into a port here
1671682404126.png



On to what ports to use after that fire hazard is fixed:
From your motherboard manual

1671682573194.png

1671682604569.png


The light green coloured ones are the 10Gb ports labelled "4" - the two seperated pairs under "3" are all the CPU's USB ports
1671682672682.png


All four 3.1 gen 1 5Gb ports are from the CPU - they're the ones that'll have issues from SoC errors, and shorting out one of them will affect all four
the two 10GB ports are from the chipset
 
Last edited:

psyvc

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I'll look up the motherboard to find out which port that is
Some ports are from the CPU, some from the chipset, some from external controllers

Front USB ports for example are prone to issues as they're literally off an extension cable, and wireless 2.4GHz devices crap out if they're next to high speed USB 3.x transfers (they give off 2.4GHz interference)

Please fill out your system specs, as it slows things down so much to have to now hunt down what motherboard you have in your previous posts to find out this mystery USB ports location

Oh my fucking god

take the PC out and fix this IO shield, you're probably shorting the ports out
View attachment 275544


You literally have a piece of metal jammed into a port here
View attachment 275545
I tried so many times to install the IO shield correctly, I literally bled for it to even stay there. But your wish is my command :(
 

Mussels

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Power Supply Fractal Ion+ 2 860W (Platinum) (This thing is God-tier. Silent and TINY)
Mouse Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL
Keyboard Razer Huntsman TE ( Sexy white keycaps)
VR HMD Oculus Rift S + Quest 2
Software Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS) OpenRGB - ditch the branded bloatware!
Benchmark Scores Nyooom.
I tried so many times to install the IO shield correctly, I literally bled for it to even stay there. But your wish is my command :(
Forgive my language but it's not only a possible cause for your problem but its genuinely an electrocution or fire hazard risk, having metal where it doesnt belong


You'll need to straighten any and all bent pieces of metal first
remove the motherboard
It goes from INSIDE the case, not from the outside


When installing motherboard screws, half install one at each corner and make sure the motherboards lined up properly with the IO shield before fully tightening any of them, then install the last screws


I'll find you a better picture to help explain this, but definitely make sure those metal tabs are bent where they're meant to be - they go *outside* the USB port 'towers' to help hold it still, but also for ground/earth connections

While you've got the motherboard out make sure you've got all the case mounting screws correctly installed - this motherboard only has 8 screw holes, you need to make sure you're not missing any standoffs, nor have extras where they could touch the motherboard. Incorrect setup there, even if its how the case arrived from the factory can result in motherboards sitting weirdly in the case, if they work at all. ATX, m-ATX and ITX cases all use different screw layouts, which is how this gets messed up.
1671683265912.png


Here's an example of my case, with the default 8 screw ATX layout and a letter guide on each screwhole for M A and I, for different board sizes
This has four unsused M screws, resulting in a loose board if used as-is
I've circled the two that would need to be installed (from the spares that came with the case, or the A ones moved up from below) in this example
1671683582531.png



These images are stolen from a youtube video here

These nubs are what latch onto the case to hold it in place.
1671683000101.png




You can see how the prongs sit on the outside of the ports - NEVER inside
This image is from before it's fully installed
1671683047946.png




This is what the rear ground ones look like, the image is taken before it's inside the PC so they're not aligned perfectly on the right side
1671683105848.png



How it looks lining it up to make sure it's oriented correctly
1671683140441.png


And heres pushing it in, from within the case
Diagonally opposite corners help, if the case or the IO shield is bent you can use the handle of a screwdriver to tap it into place
You can see the line of metal the bumps push against to hold in place
1671683344051.png



This is an example image of the USB ports being correct with those tabs all visibly used for grounding and support, and the ethernet tab being entirely unsafe
1671683852086.png
 

eidairaman1

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It's the wired HyperX Pulsfire Haste. I've never damaged it, no kinked cables. It's connected to the USB 3.1 Gen 1 port that has the ethernet connection port above. On the back of the mobo. I have my wifi card, two other usb devices, and my headphone jack there.
This is now leading back to the original post where the mouse started to get these random disconnects, then followed here when all USB devices got disconnects, now we're BACK to the first problem.
I am still under warranty for the mouse

Just happened:
the mouse literally just stopped working on the 3.1 port, I tried to re plug it in, of course it didn't work. Plugged it into the 3.0 port in front of my case and it started to work again.
The disconnect windows sound only played once It was plugged in. So the disconnect sound played then the connected sound played.

What usually happens:
The mouse will disconnect for a short period of time usually around 5s sometimes even going longer for 10s+. Then it'll reconnect. disconnect sound plays then connect sound

There is zero sound when the mouse "disconnects" it's so weird
Replace that mouse

Forgive my language but it's not only a possible cause for your problem but its genuinely an electrocution or fire hazard risk, having metal where it doesnt belong


You'll need to straighten any and all bent pieces of metal first
remove the motherboard
It goes from INSIDE the case, not from the outside


When installing motherboard screws, half install one at each corner and make sure the motherboards lined up properly with the IO shield before fully tightening any of them, then install the last screws


I'll find you a better picture to help explain this, but definitely make sure those metal tabs are bent where they're meant to be - they go *outside* the USB port 'towers' to help hold it still, but also for ground/earth connections

While you've got the motherboard out make sure you've got all the case mounting screws correctly installed - this motherboard only has 8 screw holes, you need to make sure you're not missing any standoffs, nor have extras where they could touch the motherboard. Incorrect setup there, even if its how the case arrived from the factory can result in motherboards sitting weirdly in the case, if they work at all. ATX, m-ATX and ITX cases all use different screw layouts, which is how this gets messed up.
View attachment 275557

Here's an example of my case, with the default 8 screw ATX layout and a letter guide on each screwhole for M A and I, for different board sizes
This has four unsused M screws, resulting in a loose board if used as-is
I've circled the two that would need to be installed (from the spares that came with the case, or the A ones moved up from below) in this example
View attachment 275560


These images are stolen from a youtube video here

These nubs are what latch onto the case to hold it in place.
View attachment 275551



You can see how the prongs sit on the outside of the ports - NEVER inside
This image is from before it's fully installed
View attachment 275552



This is what the rear ground ones look like, the image is taken before it's inside the PC so they're not aligned perfectly on the right side
View attachment 275553


How it looks lining it up to make sure it's oriented correctly
View attachment 275555

And heres pushing it in, from within the case
Diagonally opposite corners help, if the case or the IO shield is bent you can use the handle of a screwdriver to tap it into place
You can see the line of metal the bumps push against to hold in place
View attachment 275558


This is an example image of the USB ports being correct with those tabs all visibly used for grounding and support, and the ethernet tab being entirely unsafe
View attachment 275561
Sounds like a failure to read the motherboard manual first
 

psyvc

New Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2022
Messages
28 (0.03/day)
Replace that mouse


Sounds like a failure to read the motherboard manual first
I've fixed the IO shield problem, I have a replacement coming tomorrow afternoon

Forgive my language but it's not only a possible cause for your problem but its genuinely an electrocution or fire hazard risk, having metal where it doesnt belong


You'll need to straighten any and all bent pieces of metal first
remove the motherboard
It goes from INSIDE the case, not from the outside


When installing motherboard screws, half install one at each corner and make sure the motherboards lined up properly with the IO shield before fully tightening any of them, then install the last screws


I'll find you a better picture to help explain this, but definitely make sure those metal tabs are bent where they're meant to be - they go *outside* the USB port 'towers' to help hold it still, but also for ground/earth connections

While you've got the motherboard out make sure you've got all the case mounting screws correctly installed - this motherboard only has 8 screw holes, you need to make sure you're not missing any standoffs, nor have extras where they could touch the motherboard. Incorrect setup there, even if its how the case arrived from the factory can result in motherboards sitting weirdly in the case, if they work at all. ATX, m-ATX and ITX cases all use different screw layouts, which is how this gets messed up.
View attachment 275557

Here's an example of my case, with the default 8 screw ATX layout and a letter guide on each screwhole for M A and I, for different board sizes
This has four unsused M screws, resulting in a loose board if used as-is
I've circled the two that would need to be installed (from the spares that came with the case, or the A ones moved up from below) in this example
View attachment 275560


These images are stolen from a youtube video here

These nubs are what latch onto the case to hold it in place.
View attachment 275551



You can see how the prongs sit on the outside of the ports - NEVER inside
This image is from before it's fully installed
View attachment 275552



This is what the rear ground ones look like, the image is taken before it's inside the PC so they're not aligned perfectly on the right side
View attachment 275553


How it looks lining it up to make sure it's oriented correctly
View attachment 275555

And heres pushing it in, from within the case
Diagonally opposite corners help, if the case or the IO shield is bent you can use the handle of a screwdriver to tap it into place
You can see the line of metal the bumps push against to hold in place
View attachment 275558


This is an example image of the USB ports being correct with those tabs all visibly used for grounding and support, and the ethernet tab being entirely unsafe
View attachment 275561
took almost an hour but I fixed it
 

Mussels

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Joined
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Messages
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System Name Rainbow Sparkles (Power efficient, <350W gaming load)
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Cooling Alphacool Apex UV - Alphacool Eisblock XPX Aurora + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate
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Power Supply Fractal Ion+ 2 860W (Platinum) (This thing is God-tier. Silent and TINY)
Mouse Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL
Keyboard Razer Huntsman TE ( Sexy white keycaps)
VR HMD Oculus Rift S + Quest 2
Software Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS) OpenRGB - ditch the branded bloatware!
Benchmark Scores Nyooom.
Fantastic, did you need to re-arrange any of the standoff screws?
Again sorry for the language before, I had a genuine "Oh-fuck" moment with that since it genuinely can be dangerous with erratic shorting and sharp edges to cut cables


Try the mouse out on the front panel USB 2.0 ports for a while and see what happens, then try the CPU and chipset ports to see how it behaves on each one

Usually the CPU ports are the most stable with the best power delivery, but mice are also the most sensitive to even minor disturbances
 

psyvc

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Fantastic, did you need to re-arrange any of the standoff screws?
Again sorry for the language before, I had a genuine "Oh-fuck" moment with that since it genuinely can be dangerous with erratic shorting and sharp edges to cut cables


Try the mouse out on the front panel USB 2.0 ports for a while and see what happens, then try the CPU and chipset ports to see how it behaves on each one

Usually the CPU ports are the most stable with the best power delivery, but mice are also the most sensitive to even minor disturbances
No I didn’t need to re arrange anything, I just had to position it right and boom that was it. I’ve tried front ports already, I still get the same thing. hyperx support even told that I needed a replacement since the mouse wasn’t even being detected when trying to install firmware

well my replacement came, I think that's the end of this problem. Thank you all for trying to help.
 

Mussels

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Motherboard Asus x570-F (BIOS Modded)
Cooling Alphacool Apex UV - Alphacool Eisblock XPX Aurora + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate
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Video Card(s) Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Underclocked to 1700Mhz 0.750v (375W down to 250W))
Storage 2TB WD SN850 NVME + 1TB Sasmsung 970 Pro NVME + 1TB Intel 6000P NVME USB 3.2
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Power Supply Fractal Ion+ 2 860W (Platinum) (This thing is God-tier. Silent and TINY)
Mouse Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL
Keyboard Razer Huntsman TE ( Sexy white keycaps)
VR HMD Oculus Rift S + Quest 2
Software Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS) OpenRGB - ditch the branded bloatware!
Benchmark Scores Nyooom.
No I didn’t need to re arrange anything, I just had to position it right and boom that was it. I’ve tried front ports already, I still get the same thing. hyperx support even told that I needed a replacement since the mouse wasn’t even being detected when trying to install firmware

well my replacement came, I think that's the end of this problem. Thank you all for trying to help.
glad to hear it, compound issues are the worst ones to deal with
 

eidairaman1

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glad to hear it, compound issues are the worst ones to deal with
Snowball effect, when it rains it pours, the perfect storm lol
 

squrt8305

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weird. same thing started happening to me and i use the same exact keyboard and mouse as you. any fixes yet?
 

Mussels

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Power Supply Fractal Ion+ 2 860W (Platinum) (This thing is God-tier. Silent and TINY)
Mouse Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL
Keyboard Razer Huntsman TE ( Sexy white keycaps)
VR HMD Oculus Rift S + Quest 2
Software Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS) OpenRGB - ditch the branded bloatware!
Benchmark Scores Nyooom.
weird. same thing started happening to me and i use the same exact keyboard and mouse as you. any fixes yet?
He got his replaced, three posts up.
 
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