(SOLVED) CPU led lit up

[Shade_90]

Hello, this is my second post about this issue, but enough time has passed, and enough things have changed I'm making a new thread. As the title says my CPU is not turning on, I have already checked for damaged pins, made sure it was in the socket correctly, done a BIOS update and CMOS reset. I have also because of the early issue gotten replacement parts for both the CPU and motherboard upon using these new parts I suffer the same issue. I have checked compatibility for everything and it's all fine. The standoffs are also in. Any other ideas about what could be causing this are very much appreciated.

My specs are
CPU
AMD Ryzen 9 5900X 3.7 GHz 12-Core Processor
CPU Cooler
be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard
MSI MAG X570S TOMAHAWK MAX WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory
TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan Z 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory
Storage
TEAMGROUP MP33 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive * 2
Video Card
EVGA FTW3 ULTRA GAMING iCX3 GeForce RTX 3070 LHR 8 GB Video Card
Case
Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply
Corsair RM1000x (2021) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply
Case Fan
ARCTIC P12 PST 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fans 5-Pack


EDIT: The ram was the issue. They were not pushed in fully. It required an insane amount of force for them to properly click into place.

 

[Lost_Troll]

Plug in the second motherboard 4 pin CPU power connector from the second CPU port on the power supply and see if it will power up. I would also check to see if the power switch and reset buttons are swapped (I have done it a few times myself).

 

[Shade_90]

Plug in the second motherboard 4 pin CPU power connector from the second CPU port on the power supply and see if it will power up. I would also check to see if the power switch and reset buttons are swapped (I have done it a few times myself).

yeah my power supply didn't come with a 4pin connecter and the 8pin won't fit in that spot.
How would those buttons being swapped cause the cpu led to light up?

 

[Lost_Troll]

It wont cause the LED to come on, but it still could have been an issue.

Looking at the manual for the supply, one end of the cpu power cable can be split into 2 x 4 pairs. So, you should be able to split the one end and plug it into the board, and that should fix your problem. Also, the end that does not split in 2 x 4 pairs, plugs into the supply.

I think the CPU light is on because the board needs the second CPU power input as some boards require it.

 

[Shade_90]

It wont cause the LED to come on, but it still could have been an issue.

Looking at the manual for the supply, one end of the cpu power cable can be split into 2 x 4 pairs. So, you should be able to split the one end and plug it into the board, and that should fix your problem. Also, the end that does not split in 2 x 4 pairs, plugs into the supply.

View attachment 272770

I think the CPU light is on because the board needs the second CPU power input as some boards require it.

ok, i'll look around for that cord and then update you
hey, it won't be till late tomorrow before I'm able to test that. Super late at night where I am, and I work mornings so if you're watching this thread helping me no need to.

 

[Mussels]

Most likely it's a BIOS update needed, you can try their Q-flash alternative (whatever they named it)

You should remove all extras but the basics to get that first boot happening

Motherboard
CPU
One stick of RAM (second closest slot to CPU socket)
GPU (When no onboard graphics)

And disconnect anything that isnt neccesary - take out the case USB connectors, RGB connectors, any power converters adaptrors, etc etc - it's super easy to have something where it doesnt belong and shorting out, and you focus on that CPU LED because it's all you see when it could be a USB connector in a firewire port or a 5V ARGB fan in a 12V socket

Oh and also the obvious - take the CPU out, check for damaged or missing pins and any thermal paste or debris in the socket. Over tightening a cooler can screw with how they sit in the socket and make the electrical contact really poor.


How did you verify the BIOS update? A lot of people screw up these offline BIOS flashes since it's easy to forget to unzip the content, format the USB drive in a way they dont like, forget to rename the BIOS file to MSI.rom and so on.
I had a board that wouldnt work when windows 10/11 was used to format the drive to FAT32, but worked fine with third party tools like rufus.
BIOS flashback needs nothing but mobo, CPU and PSU and requires the system to be off, but have power connected - i've seen so many people turn the PC on, or have it powered off at the PSU and try this

 

[eidairaman1]

Most likely it's a BIOS update needed, you can try their Q-flash alternative (whatever they named it)

You should remove all extras but the basics to get that first boot happening

Motherboard
CPU
One stick of RAM (second closest slot to CPU socket)
GPU (When no onboard graphics)

And disconnect anything that isnt neccesary - take out the case USB connectors, RGB connectors, any power converters adaptrors, etc etc - it's super easy to have something where it doesnt belong and shorting out, and you focus on that CPU LED because it's all you see when it could be a USB connector in a firewire port or a 5V ARGB fan in a 12V socket

Oh and also the obvious - take the CPU out, check for damaged or missing pins and any thermal paste or debris in the socket. Over tightening a cooler can screw with how they sit in the socket and make the electrical contact really poor.


How did you verify the BIOS update? A lot of people screw up these offline BIOS flashes since it's easy to forget to unzip the content, format the USB drive in a way they dont like, forget to rename the BIOS file to MSI.rom and so on.
I had a board that wouldnt work when windows 10/11 was used to format the drive to FAT32, but worked fine with third party tools like rufus.
BIOS flashback needs nothing but mobo, CPU and PSU and requires the system to be off, but have power connected - i've seen so many people turn the PC on, or have it powered off at the PSU and try this

Not on a x570S, this guy has another thread and was told before to have the motherboard and cpu tested in shop.

I call it pebcak.

@Shade_90 You have money to buy a 570 and 5900, you have money to test it in a shop don't be a cheapsk8.

 

[Shade_90]

...
BIOS flashback needs nothing but mobo, CPU and PSU and requires the system to be off, but have power connected - i've seen so many people turn the PC on, or have it powered off at the PSU and try this

While I have no way to verify that I did the BIOS flashback correctly, I did rename the file, the power was connected but not on.
The issue with taking it out of the box is that I don't have a jumper and so have no way to turn it on without the cases power buttons.

Not on a x570S, this guy has another thread and was told before to have the motherboard and cpu tested in shop.

I call it pebcak.

I don't have pc shops near me nor do I really want to have to spend more money to get stuff checked.
Thats why I'm asking for other advice. I already have a good idea of what the issue is I just don't have the time to test it till tomorrow night. But I want to hear what other people have to say.

 

[cvaldes]

The issue with taking it out of the box is that I don't have a jumper and so have no way to turn it on without the cases power buttons.

You don't need a replacement switch or a jumper.

Just momentarily short out the two pins with anything conductive like the head of a small screwdriver or a paperclip.

 

[95Viper]

Keep it on topic.
Stop the guideline violations!

 

[Shade_90]

You don't need a replacement switch or a jumper.

Just momentarily short out the two pins with anything conductive like the head of a small screwdriver or a paperclip.

Ah Ok I'll try that tomorrow, thanks

 

[Solaris17]

It wont cause the LED to come on, but it still could have been an issue.

Looking at the manual for the supply, one end of the cpu power cable can be split into 2 x 4 pairs. So, you should be able to split the one end and plug it into the board, and that should fix your problem. Also, the end that does not split in 2 x 4 pairs, plugs into the supply.

View attachment 272770

I think the CPU light is on because the board needs the second CPU power input as some boards require it.

these are also 4+4 connectors x2 so you have another. the 4x4 means one end splits apart. You probably have it connected backwards. The end that does NOT split in half should be in the PSU.

 

[Shade_90]

these are also 4+4 connectors x2 so you have another. the 4x4 means one end splits apart. You probably have it connected backwards. The end that does NOT split in half should be in the PSU.

Yeah that's not an issue only one end fits in the psu, I'll double check after work but it's pretty unlikely that's the issue.

So quick question when installing ram should it "click" into place and move the clamps itself? Or do I manually close the clamps on it. I've put a lot of force into pushing the ram down But no mater how hard I push my ram doesn't click into place

 

[Solaris17]

Yeah that's not an issue only one end fits in the psu, I'll double check after work but it's pretty unlikely that's the issue.

You also said its likely you dont have another cable when it states it comes with two. Forgive me for salting to taste considering the picture shows a solid connector when its specified as a 4x4.

For someone that has tried "everything" seemingly its no wonder the forum populace isnt showing these threads a ton of attention.

Frustrated or not try to have a bit more of an open mind. After all with "all the parts you replaced" the one common denominator is.......you?

 

[Shade_90]

You also said its likely you dont have another cable when it states it comes with two. Forgive me for salting to taste considering the picture shows a solid connector when its specified as a 4x4.

For someone that has tried "everything" seemingly its no wonder the forum populace isnt showing these threads a ton of attention.

Frustrated or not try to have a bit more of an open mind. After all with "all the parts you replaced" the one common denominator is.......you?

What? I never said I didn't have another cable. Assuming your talking about the cpu cord it's literally labeled cpu on its side. That's not the issue. There's no need to be rude it my first build and I've followed the manual to the letter.

 

[Mussels]

yeah my power supply didn't come with a 4pin connecter and the 8pin won't fit in that spot.

You did say it.

Normally you need just four pins connected for the system to boot, 8 pins is enough for 99% of systems - but if you have the 12 available, use it.


You havent used parts from a previous or different PSU have you?

 

[Shade_90]

You did say it.

Normally you need just four pins connected for the system to boot, 8 pins is enough for 99% of systems - but if you have the 12 available, use it.


You havent used parts from a previous or different PSU have you?

So I did, I didn't see that and no I'm only using what came in the box.

I didn't realize that the 4+4 could break in half so I'll try that.

After installing for 4pin and making sure power does come through it. The cpu still doesn't recieve power.

I am more than aware this is some error on my part. If anyone has any further guess or ideas on what could be causing it not to turn on please tell me. I can't think of anything I haven't tried yet.

 

[Lost_Troll]

So, from the top, when you built the PC and it did not power up, you RMA'D the CPU and motherboard for replacements? Also, are any of the other parts used parts, like the video card?

One thing you can rule out, is the motherboard BIOS. According to the MSI website, it supports the 5900X with the first BIOS version supplied.

 

[Shade_90]

Yes I initially thought I got a DOA cpu and when that didn't work I guessed damaged motherboard. I now know it is obvious it's something I've done I just can't figure out what. All parts are new parts. And as far as I can tell everything turns on the only thing I'm not certain of is the ram. The ram led on the moba doesn't light up but they don't have any rgb lights or fans on them like the gpu and cooler so I can't tell that way.

All I'm asking for now is just some further ideas on what I can test. I am at a total loss and the nearest pc repair place to me is over an hour drive away so that's a last resort type thing.
seriously any ideas you might have on why a cpu won't turn on is appreciated.

 

[Lost_Troll]

The CPU cooler, do you have the fan connectors plugged in to the CPU_FAN1 and PUMP_FAN1 headers? If these are not plugged into those headers, the board will see that there is no cooler attached for the cpu and it will not power on. The outside fan should plug into the CPU_FAN1 and the inner fan to the PUMP_FAN1 connector. You may also have to set the PUMP_FAN1 in the BIOS to fan mode once the system comes up.

Next, did you put thermal compound on the CPU before you mounted the CPU cooler on to the CPU?

 

[Shade_90]

I only plugged in the cpu 1 fan, so that might be it. I can test that real quick before work, thank you. The outside fan had a connector, so I thought they went together.
Yes I did put thermal paste.

well unfortunately the cpu still isn't receiving power. But that was something I needed to fix so thank you for pointing that out.

 

[The King]

Sorry to post this again. Not sure if it was done or answered in the previous thread.
Have you tried with different RAM? YES/NO?

CPU light does not always mean CPU fault. It can be RAM related. If the CPU does not like the RAM it does
not matter if you put in 1 or 2 sticks the results will be the same. CPU red light

If this was already tested. then carry on dudes...

 

[Shade_90]

Ok one further question because google is giving me conflicting information. About the case standoff keep out zones. Do I put the standoffs that came with the motherboard in the ATX slots on the case even if there isn't a screw hole there or do I leave them empty? I am finding conflicting information on google and the Manuel doesn't really tell me if I should or shouldn't.
just to be clear. Right now, I have the 3 standoffs that came with the moba in the case all of them touching the keep out zones. Some things I'm finding tell me this is how it should be, and others are telling me the exact opposite.

Sorry to post this again. Not sure if it was done or answered in the previous thread.
Have you tried with different RAM? YES/NO?

...

I have not tried with different ram as I don't have any further ram. Later today after work I was going to double check that the ram I have was properly installed.

 

[The King]

I have not tried with different ram as I don't have any further ram. Later today after work I was going to double check that the ram I have was properly installed.

I have about a dozen or so different RAM kits. Some of them on my 5800X shows red CPU light they refuse to work.
the RAM may work on another system. Does not mean it will work on yours.

This can cause problems when trying to rule out what is compatible or not.

 

[Calenhad]

So much misinformation here.
1 - That motherboard will 100% guaranteed power on with the one 8-pin EPS connection, unless there is a different problem. The 4-pin connection is for extreme overclocking and even then it is unnecessary 97% of the time.
2 - That is an X570S motherboard, it is new enough to have a bios that support 5000-series CPUs without flashing anything.
3 - That PSU comes with one 4+4-pin EPS cable and one 8-pin EPS cable. Use either one to power the 8-pin connection on the motherboard.
4 - The motherboard should boot without any fans connected and give you a warning that the CPU fan is not running/detected. But I would absolutely connect the cooler fan to this header, I have run into stubborn motherboards before.

Now to address one beginner error I have seen numerous times and I don't see mentioned here. Remove the motherboard and make sure you haven't screwed up the standoffs in the case. You need to be absolutely sure you have the exact amount of standoffs to match the motherboard and that they are in the correct position. A misplaced standoff can short out the motherboard and cause a non-booting issue.