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What the best thermal paste in 2019?

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freeagent

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What PCB cracks when you tighten your cooler down? MSI lol? I kid I kid.. never owned one. Well, I have never had that problem because my coolers are tight, and I guess I know how to apply TIM thankfully.
 

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You're not following the train of thought so...have a video demonstrating the differences:

At 2 minutes in, you can see a pocket form:
air pocket.png

Then when he applies pressure...wow...it's awful (only solid white isn't a pocket, all the grayness has air):
pocketseverywhere.png

Same TIM in a cross configuration. This is what it *should* look like:
crossmethod.png



What I was saying about popping...the only way to work that bubble out in the first picture is to apply thousands of pounds of force--an industrial press which would cause an explosive pop as it escapes. You'll destroy something if you try that with a processor. Don't. Just apply the TIM in a dot, line, X, asterisk, or any other pattern that works from the center out to vacate all of the air as pressure is being applied. Do NOT pre-spread. Air is an insulator. Doesn't matter what TIM you use, air pockets will prohibit it from functioning.

So yeah, his (the Aussie's) test is invalid because his method is conducive to producing air pockets and results will be completely inconsistent across different TIMs. His graph shows this too: normally it's an 8% spread between best and worst, his is much wider.
 
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Thermal Grizzly Kryo paste by far,,, its been my goto for the hot ass Vega and RX480 cards. Also my 5.2ghz OC 7700K loves this stuff..
 

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You're not following the train of thought so...have a video demonstrating the differences:

What I was saying about popping...the only way to work that bubble out in the first picture is to apply thousands of pounds of force--an industrial press which would cause an explosive pop as it escapes. You'll destroy something if you try that with a processor. Don't. Just apply the TIM in a dot, line, X, asterisk, or any other pattern that works from the center out to vacate all of the air as pressure is being applied. Do NOT pre-spread. Air is an insulator. Doesn't matter what TIM you use, air pockets will prohibit it from functioning.

So yeah, his (the Aussie's) test is invalid because his method is conducive to producing air pockets and results will be completely inconsistent across different TIMs. His graph shows this too: normally it's an 8% spread between best and worst, his is much wider.

That was a well thought out post, thanks for taking the time.

I just put a dot in the center.. I usually do a few mounts when I first get a new cpu to see if I am getting good coverage. If my temps are good, or not, I will usually pull the cooler anyways just to check the spread and see how she flows.. I start small and work my way up until I am satisfied with temps. If I put a little too much on, Ill wipe it and use a little less. Its really one of the few things I am OCD about lol.. I blame AS5 for that. Anyways, I will run something hot at a speed and voltage that wont hurt anything, usually at or around max vid, which on this chip is 1.215. As for something hot, well that would be linpack extreme. And I let it cycle a couple of times, build some heat then let it cool. It can be a bit time consuming, But once I get to know a cpu it doesn't take long. I usually do it when the kids are in bed on a Friday or Saturday night because I am a party animal.
 
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What PCB cracks when you tighten your cooler down? MSI lol? I kid I kid.. never owned one. Well, I have never had that problem because my coolers are tight, and I guess I know how to apply TIM thankfully.

Overtightened heatsinks are definitely a major issue for DIY builders. Especially if you're new to the game, the tendency is to screw things down a bit too tight 'to be sure'. You can crush traces on the board doing that and kill it, and yes, you can crack a PCB as well. A screw can apply significant force.

Just because you didn't, never underestimate humanity :D

I'm sorry, was the title of this thread "What's the most mediocre thermal paste in 2019 with a few drawbacks" or "What's the best thermal paste in 2019"???

If you want to get super technical and pick apart my posts with a fine tooth comb, then AS5 isn't even in the ballpark of discussion and shouldn't even have been mentioned in this thread. The thread starter clearly asked about the best thermal paste in 2019. Simple as that. And AS5 isn't in this discussion anymore because it simply doesn't perform as well as a dozen more modern pastes, not to mention it's difficult to clean up compared to carbon based TIM's, has a 200 hour break in period, and gives you no incentive to buy it from a price perspective.

If someone starts a thread about what's the best TV in 2019, nobody is suggesting a Plasma or CRT just because technically it still "works".

View attachment 133248

You need to get it through your thick skull, apparently, but 80% of that chart falls right within margin of error territory. And AS5 is in it.

Bottom line, relevance of this testing is just about zero. The best result is for Conductonaut shaving off a notably larger bit of temperature than most others. But it is also much more expensive. 'Best' can be 'best' in many ways. 'Best perf/dollar'. 'Best thermal performance'. 'Best availability in stores'. 'Best application to avoid air pockets'. You name it. Your definition of best is top of a chart..? Pretty narrow if you ask me.
 
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Possible to cause issues with sockets like Intel has from too much pressure used.
Screws used makes it all too easy to overdo the mounting pressure with those.
Done it before and it did cause a pin or two to get moved out of place, luckily the fix was easy enough.

If using screws and in doubt, the rule is to "Snug it", not torque it down and it will be fine.
The TIM will still spread out like it should if it has to, just double-check the mounting pressure after a few hours of runtime to make sure it didn't change due to the TIM spreading out further after it gets warm.
 
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yea same here but i recently found out that its only good for 4 years or less?

Ok they do not mention how many years but I think it should last more than 4 years.
Where did you read that?

Capture.PNG


 
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I can recommend Noctua NT-H2 as it's spreading better than anything else and is slightly better than other TIMs in performance. I had a bad experience with the Kryonaut. One tube was weirdly dry and was spreading really bad. No issues like that with some other tubes from them but the price is in general too high for my needs. I can get it for competitive benchmarking but not for daily tests when I sometimes switch coolers more often.
If I switch coolers more often then I'm using cheaper stuff like MX4 which is still really good, even though has some years. There are also other options on the market so it's easy to find something good and not really overpriced.

In tests some TIMs are +/- 1°C when applying the TIM can be next 1-2°C difference. I don't know if 1°C difference for an 80°C+ CPU is really worth to make another 'what TIM is the best' thread :)
 
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Best bang for your buck, Arctic MX-4.

ebay mx-4

You can buy 4 gram syringes for $6.23 and it's one of the best performing pastes on the market.

A great alternative to pastes is the liquid metal pad, or thermal grizzly conductonaut, which is also fairly cheap and performs very well.

Best thermal paste 2019 from another site. MX-4 still the winner.

I just tested NT-H1 vs theMX-4 I had on my cpu and no difference whatsoever. Both increased to the same temperature during testing and subsequently dropped at the same rate in temperature when the test was over. Good paste is good paste I guess.
 
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Wow, I totally shot the AS5 hornets nest with the MX4 shotgun... lol

Even back in the day it was a bit of a joke that Ceramique performed better than AS5.

Burn-in does apply to AS5, because you need to get it hot several times before it 'sets'.

AS5 isn't very conductive but it is capacitive. That's the electrical truth.

My measure of a superior paste isn't one that cools 1'C better for twice the cost.

A superior paste is one that outperforms another paste by 1'C and costs half as much.

MX4 around here is $10, AS5 is $15. MX4 consistently outperforms AS5.

In summary...

AS5 is an ok paste, but there are better performing options for the dollar. It's an old formula that's been surpassed by newer and better technology and formulations.

Edit:

Just got some EK Ectotherm. Does anyone know who supplies this TIM. It looks super familiar.

Just put CLU Extreme on a friends VII... that is going to live under an EK full cover block. I will say that Aquacomputer and Watercooling both have much nicer machining on their full cover blocks. Byski too from the pictures... Never been a big fan of EK, but the options were limited. The only German block, Phanteks isn't available here and import is $$$.
 
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i mean if you're running a computer shop and pasting stuff every day then yes cost is a factor and double the cost for 1C isnt worth it... but if you're talking about a enthusiast builder who maybe pastes something every 6 months and has had the same tube of thermal paste laying around for the last 2 years then the extra $10 for 1-2C better performance on a tube that will last you is completely worth it IMO.

I average about a build every 2 months and have tried gelid, phanteks, and Thermalright - and I always get very good results with the Kryonaut so I like to just stick to that if possible.
 
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We go through a lot at work. We buy the 30-40g syringe for less than a $1 per gram in MX2 and MX4 flavors.
 

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You're not following the train of thought so...have a video demonstrating the differences:

At 2 minutes in, you can see a pocket form:
View attachment 133262
Then when he applies pressure...wow...it's awful (only solid white isn't a pocket, all the grayness has air):
View attachment 133263
Same TIM in a cross configuration. This is what it *should* look like:
View attachment 133264


What I was saying about popping...the only way to work that bubble out in the first picture is to apply thousands of pounds of force--an industrial press which would cause an explosive pop as it escapes. You'll destroy something if you try that with a processor. Don't. Just apply the TIM in a dot, line, X, asterisk, or any other pattern that works from the center out to vacate all of the air as pressure is being applied. Do NOT pre-spread. Air is an insulator. Doesn't matter what TIM you use, air pockets will prohibit it from functioning.

So yeah, his (the Aussie's) test is invalid because his method is conducive to producing air pockets and results will be completely inconsistent across different TIMs. His graph shows this too: normally it's an 8% spread between best and worst, his is much wider.

I use the spread method and then set the sink down twist and press a few times and secure the hsf. No problems with my cpu from 2015.
 

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i mean if you're running a computer shop and pasting stuff every day then yes cost is a factor and double the cost for 1C isnt worth it... but if you're talking about a enthusiast builder who maybe pastes something every 6 months and has had the same tube of thermal paste laying around for the last 2 years then the extra $10 for 1-2C better performance on a tube that will last you is completely worth it IMO.

I average about a build every 2 months and have tried gelid, phanteks, and Thermalright - and I always get very good results with the Kryonaut so I like to just stick to that if possible.

While I post about using Liquid Metal... Actually Kryonaut is kinda expensive since it's about par for price to the Coolaboratory products per gram.
 
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While I post about using Liquid Metal... Actually Kryonaut is kinda expensive since it's about par for price to the Coolaboratory products per gram.

For sure it is - but when you use 10 G every 2 years it doesn't matter all too much.

Liquid metal can eat into heatsinks and makes it harder to resell the chip after you're done with it, so its best to use that for delidding.
 
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Noctua NT-H2 all the way. It is about 3 degrees cooler than the NT_H1 which was my favourite before that.
 
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I'm not sure what the best thermal paste is nowadays, I'm still using MX2 in 2019. I love the stuff and don't see any reason to change. Considering I have about 14g sitting on my bench...I'm stuck with it for quite some time. :) .

I enjoyed Ford's post in #152. I personally use the grain of rice method. For me, it gives the most uniform pattern without air pockets. Although...on GPU's I spread a thin layer across the whole of the processor. The reason is...I don't think the clamping pressure of the coolers on these is as high as a regular normal desktop processor cooler and I've run into overheating problems when using the rice method on GPU's. Now...admittedly, I haven't tested this theory in probably over a decade...so "things" could have changed since then. Either way...its been working for me and I'll probably continue to do it that way until it doesn't.

Another small observation though...

Having taken apart many many many OEM computers over the last 4 decades...the most air bubbles &/or pockets that I have witnessed came from factory oem computers where the thermal paste was applied over the whole processor before assembly. Just as in Ford's photos. Hence my comment.

What I find strange is that this behavior doesn't repeat itself when I pull off my GPU coolers years later. Despite using what I consider to be the "inferior method"...I never see air pockets? All of these years, I chalked it up to clamping pressure as mentioned.

Although...the truth is...I don't know.

Best,

Liquid Cool
 

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MX-4 for ease of use and performance and I have a big syringe of it...
 
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For sure it is - but when you use 10 G every 2 years it doesn't matter all too much.

Liquid metal can eat into heatsinks and makes it harder to resell the chip after you're done with it, so its best to use that for delidding.

I've seen it diffuse into copper and it or it's removal take the writing off the top of IHSs. I've never seen LM eat into a die before.

Actually it's why I suggest LM only on nickel plated copper. It does slow the process considerably. Polishing the copper first may also work as it helps to close off the pores of the copper.

Also why I have 3 classes for TIM, bang the buck, high performance, and thermals are everything.

I run LM when I delid, it's worth it. Lapping the IHS is also very worthwhile but screws resale and warranty too.
 
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The thin stuff like Noctua NTH1 pumped out in my experience.
This is entirely possible - but note it is the "excess" TIM that gets pumped out - not the TIM that is deposited in the microscopic pits and valleys. So the TIM that's left behind is still occupying those pits and valleys, preventing insulating air from getting in there. In other words, that TIM is still doing its job! :)
It's a 20 year old formula.
I find that comment ludicrous. Again, look at the Tom's Hardware link oobymach posted (actually first posted by dirtyferret way back in post # 35 and check out his Hardware Secrets chart in post #40). In the TH chart AS5 hit 37.2°C while Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut was less than 3 degrees better at 34.8°C.

And to your 20 year nonsense, note there are literally dozens of TIMs produced by big names in the industry (Be Quiet, Corsair, Delid, Akasa, Xilence, Enermax, Cooler Master, OCZ, Zalman, Inter-Tech, Evercool, Silverstone, Koening - to name but a few) with TIMs that came out long after AS5 that scored worse than AS5. How could that be if the fact AS5 uses a 20 year old formula mattered, as your claim implies?

Look at your own Guru3D chart and again, if you remove the liquid-metal contenders, AS5 comes in within 5 - 6 degrees of the top rated and that is giving it time to fully cure!

I say once again, if you NEED those few degrees between AS5 and the top contenders and if you NEED those few degree you get from curing, YOU HAVE FAILED to set up your case cooling properly or YOU HAVE FAILED to properly apply the TIM. Or your vanity puts too much emphasis on bragging rights! :rolleyes:
Is the tile of this thread, "Thermal paste that works"? or "Best Thermal Paste 2019"?
The title is not, "Is AS5 any good?" Yet, starting with your 2nd post in this thread, it seems you have been on a campaign to discredit AS5. :kookoo:

Frankly, your comment you would not use AS5 because it has silver, a metal, in it makes it clear, you really don't understand AS5 or TIMs in general. FTR, AS5 is more than 99% silver - and that's a very good thing! :)
Burn-in does apply to AS5, because you need to get it hot several times before it 'sets'.
Again, so what? And for the record, you do NOT have to get it "hot". All you have to do is use the computer normally for a few sessions - which includes letting the computer go to sleep for a few minutes to cool, then wake it up again. This is why maximum curing can occur in as little as 50 hours. 200 hours is the extreme example and in any event, curing results in just a few degrees improvement. No big deal!

This really is a no brainer, folks. With properly configured case cooling, and a proper application of TIM, your processor temps should be comfortably within the normal operating range at first power up. If not, you already failed to setup proper case cooling or you failed to apply the TIM properly.

If the temps start out comfortably within the normal operating range, then if you use a TIM that has a curing period (as many do), then you know you will be rewarded with even a few degrees better cooling in a couple days - even though those degrees should not be needed.

I note, as anyone who's been around electronics for awhile knows, even your most basic silicone TIM with simple zinc-oxide filler works great and is more than adequate for most CPU and GPU applications - in a properly cooled case, of course. Many even meet rigorous Mil-Spec requirements. All these other TIMs are pretty much the invention of marketing weenies to appease the overclocking enthusiast seeking to eek out the lowest temps possible - again for bragging rights, not because those few degrees are "needed".

Yes, there are exceptions, but exceptions don't make the rule for the vast majority of users.

***

Because I am tired of repeating myself, I will say this once more, then step out of this thread. More important than the specific TIM is that you (1) use TIM and (2) apply it properly - and again, in a properly cooled case.

Have a good day.
 

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Every paste I’ve used seems to work a little better after some thermal cycles. That had been echoed a few times already in this thread. So the fact as5 takes some time to set is moot, they all do.
 
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Every paste I’ve used seems to work a little better after some thermal cycles. That had been echoed a few times already in this thread. So the fact as5 takes some time to set is moot, they all do.
Yeah no, Carbon based TIM's are ready as soon as they are applied and spread. They perform optimally on day 1.
 
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This is entirely possible - but note it is the "excess" TIM that gets pumped out - not the TIM that is deposited in the microscopic pits and valleys. So the TIM that's left behind is still occupying those pits and valleys, preventing insulating air from getting in there. In other words, that TIM is still doing its job! :)
I find that comment ludicrous. Again, look at the Tom's Hardware link oobymach posted (actually first posted by dirtyferret way back in post # 35 and check out his Hardware Secrets chart in post #40). In the TH chart AS5 hit 37.2°C while Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut was less than 3 degrees better at 34.8°C.

And to your 20 year nonsense, note there are literally dozens of TIMs produced by big names in the industry (Be Quiet, Corsair, Delid, Akasa, Xilence, Enermax, Cooler Master, OCZ, Zalman, Inter-Tech, Evercool, Silverstone, Koening - to name but a few) with TIMs that came out long after AS5 that scored worse than AS5. How could that be if the fact AS5 uses a 20 year old formula mattered, as your claim implies?

Look at your own Guru3D chart and again, if you remove the liquid-metal contenders, AS5 comes in within 5 - 6 degrees of the top rated and that is giving it time to fully cure!

I say once again, if you NEED those few degrees between AS5 and the top contenders and if you NEED those few degree you get from curing, YOU HAVE FAILED to set up your case cooling properly or YOU HAVE FAILED to properly apply the TIM. Or your vanity puts too much emphasis on bragging rights! :rolleyes:
The title is not, "Is AS5 any good?" Yet, starting with your 2nd post in this thread, it seems you have been on a campaign to discredit AS5. :kookoo:

Frankly, your comment you would not use AS5 because it has silver, a metal, in it makes it clear, you really don't understand AS5 or TIMs in general. FTR, AS5 is more than 99% silver - and that's a very good thing! :)
Again, so what? And for the record, you do NOT have to get it "hot". All you have to do is use the computer normally for a few sessions - which includes letting the computer go to sleep for a few minutes to cool, then wake it up again. This is why maximum curing can occur in as little as 50 hours. 200 hours is the extreme example and in any event, curing results in just a few degrees improvement. No big deal!

This really is a no brainer, folks. With properly configured case cooling, and a proper application of TIM, your processor temps should be comfortably within the normal operating range at first power up. If not, you already failed to setup proper case cooling or you failed to apply the TIM properly.

If the temps start out comfortably within the normal operating range, then if you use a TIM that has a curing period (as many do), then you know you will be rewarded with even a few degrees better cooling in a couple days - even though those degrees should not be needed.

I note, as anyone who's been around electronics for awhile knows, even your most basic silicone TIM with simple zinc-oxide filler works great and is more than adequate for most CPU and GPU applications - in a properly cooled case, of course. Many even meet rigorous Mil-Spec requirements. All these other TIMs are pretty much the invention of marketing weenies to appease the overclocking enthusiast seeking to eek out the lowest temps possible - again for bragging rights, not because those few degrees are "needed".

Yes, there are exceptions, but exceptions don't make the rule for the vast majority of users.

***

Because I am tired of repeating myself, I will say this once more, then step out of this thread. More important than the specific TIM is that you (1) use TIM and (2) apply it properly - and again, in a properly cooled case.

Have a good day.

Sry. 200 hours is not an extreme example but the actual recommendation from Artic Silver application instruction pdf. You can find the link in one of my previous posts.

Sure, any one can use any thermal paste.

But some people arent just any one or an average user.

The issue is that some people are more enthusiast and seek that 2c degree drop in temps and it may matter to them.

Specifics are too often left out of conversation.

The thermal paste argument issue is just as old as AS5 and older lol.

Me, an enthusiast, care not to here that one TIM is just as good as another because Im no average user.

Much you say holds plenty of truth, but its not because Im knocking the AS5 paste, its because of testing on my own shows a decent difference between AS5 and the paste I prefer to actually use.

For average joe schmoe... Use mustard for all I care.
 
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