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Where I can buy the Samsung 35E 18650 3500mAh 8A -Protected Button Top Batteries.

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Hello to everyone.

I'm trying to "create" a tablet or maybe it's better to say a mobile device :) powered by FreeBSD and I'm looking for some good batteries to put inside this enclosure :

https://www.amazon.it/dp/B0CGZTSJWX

it has the right dimensions,more or less to fit well inside the case...can you reccomend,pointing me to the right link,where I can buy the batteries to put there ? Someone suggested to look for these ones because they have a top / down protection :

www.18650batterystore.com


Samsung 35E 18650 3500mAh 8A -Protected Button Top Battery

well,they are sold out there and I'm not able to find them in any online shop. At least,I found it in some shops but they don't ship them in Italy,where I live. Can someone help me ?
 
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Check Vape shops. Lots of the bigger vapes use 18650s.
 
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Are you sure ? I read that they aren't good for E-CIGARETTE, VAPORIZER, OR SIMILAR DEVICE.
 
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I've had a vape that used 18650s but not the type you are asking about and i believe it is due to this.
*Please NOTE these button top protected batteries are 4-6mm longer than a standard 18650 cell.
 
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Yes, I am quite sure. Steve is correct. The button style contact is the reason those particular ones say that. They are offered with and without it. Better make sure which one your enclosure takes.
 
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1) You don't necessarily need Samsung 35E. There are much cheaper options. I usually go for Liitokala 3400mAh cells with protection (that's what is under that top "button") if it's a 1-cell setup or something like that. Or 3400mAh Panasonic cells without protection, which I use pretty much everywhere (including repacking e-scooter batteries and big charging stations).
2) If you want to stick it into a powerbank enclosure, why not just buy a power bank? There are equally compact models with LiPo pouch cells, which are smaller, lighter, but offer similar capacity. And it's probably cheaper.
3) What kind of "portable device" are we talking about? Give more details, so maybe I can give you a better solution
 
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1) You don't necessarily need Samsung 35E. There are much cheaper options. I usually go for Liitokala 3400mAh cells with protection (that's what is under that top "button") if it's a 1-cell setup or something like that. Or 3400mAh Panasonic cells without protection, which I use pretty much everywhere (including repacking e-scooter batteries and big charging stations).
2) If you want to stick it into a powerbank enclosure, why not just buy a power bank? There are equally compact models with LiPo pouch cells, which are smaller, lighter, but offer similar capacity. And it's probably cheaper.
3) What kind of "portable device" are we talking about? Give more details, so maybe I can give you a better solution

Sure. The tablet that I'm trying to assemble has these hardware components :

1) soc = Rockchip RK3399Pro
2) display = https://www.waveshare.com/8hp-caplcd-monitor.htm

and now I want to power on 1 and 2 with a power bank or better,with an enclosure where I can place the batteries that I want. The space left inside the case to place the battery pack is more or less 8 (= width) x 12 (= lenght) x 2 cm (= depth),as you can see below :

Senza titolo.jpeg


The enclosure that I've bought has the right dimensions (10 x 8 x 2 cm) and it can accept batteries 18650. I'm not experienced,so I assume that it can't accept different kind of batteries. I have some hope that it can accept also the 18650 with the top and down protection,but I'm not sure.
So,what I need is to find a portable charger of the same dimensions that has two USB type C ports because it should power on the display and the soc...
 

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Ok. Got it.
So, the main bummer is that this board cannot be powered by USB-C, and the recommended power input is 12V 3A via 5.5x2.1 barrel jack.
Good news, is that this 3A current takes into account everything that can be possibly connected to the board itself, including full-size 3.5" HDD(which can take up to 1.2-1.5A from the total budget), while the board itself should be just a tad over 7W of power(e.g. worst case 1A budget for the whole thing). Basically, if you are not planning on using a HDD, you can simply get a 20-25W power bank with at least PD2.0 or QC3.0 support, and use a 12V trigger cable to get at least 12V 2A out of it. Then, power the LCD from the ROCKPRO64's USB port and call it a day. Your portable monitor is only 5W max, or even less if you tune down the brightness a bit. My 14" portable touchscreen monitor consumes about 700mA from USB at full brightness, so yours should be less than that(e.g. you can try powering it from one of those USB2.0 ports, so you'll have 3.0 ports available for other stuff).
I'd also recommend getting a cheap slim powerbank with QC/PD support instead of making your own from an enclosure. It'll be cheaper, more reliable. Something like Anker PowerCore III Slim or similar.
At less than $20 it'll be cheaper than finding specifically 35E or 35Q cells(with or without protection).

Trigger cable for the board:

There are also cheap-ass fixed trigger boards without cable. I'm frequently using these for DIY projects and various fixes/conversions(usually when I want something to work from USB).

Another thing to note, is that neither aftermarket powerbanks, nor DIY enclosures work in UPS or passthrough mode, which means all USB outputs are disabled while charging (e.g. your "tablet" will shut down immediately as you connect the charging cable). There is a workaround for this, but it's gonna be more complicated, and more of a DIY project up my valley, and not necessarily beginner-friendly.
 
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6mm is 0.236 inches. A 1/4 inch difference is a lot. Not sure I have ever seen a 18650 battery compartment with that much wiggle room. You sure 2mm to 4mm isn't more realistic? Anecdotal but I have two 18650 batteries here, one branded "Ankor", the other "Ecogear". Both came with "tactical" flashlights. I suspect both are outsourced to an OEM supplier and rebranded with the Ankor and Ecogear logos. Anyway, one is protected, the other is not. There is a hair under (according to my good, 72 year old calibrated eye) 2mm difference in length.

[rant]
Side tracking note - I think a world-wide ban on unprotected 18650 batteries is necessary. At the same time, I think such a bad "should NOT be" necessary. IMO, the battery industry "should" have the integrity to control manufacturing and self-impose the necessary safety standards to ensure these batteries are safe, won't leak, won't overheat or catch fire, or won't explode.

Sadly, history has shown that unregulated industries (manufacturing, banking, insurance, younameit) WILL soon (if they have not already) take shortcuts in design and manufacturing or out-and-out commit deceptive practices and even fraud to cut costs and rip consumers off. They will do any and everything to line their greedy pockets without any regards for consumer safety or the environment. :( This includes bribing inspectors and overseers to look the other way.
[/rant]
 
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There is a hair under (according to my good, 72 year old calibrated eye) 2mm difference in length.

Flat tops have no protection. Button tops have protection. (apparently not all according to link, they sell both with and without)
I've had a number of button top 18650's go bad. ((can't charge or drained below where they can accept charge. The button tops are supposed to have a failsafe for this, but that's also the sign of a bad product/false claims))
Trying to find a reputable brand is the issue.
Better ones have a higher cycle limit, like 2000 recharges. (this site says recharge cycles less, 500 max? Maybe more fud?)
The 18650 being a certain size can only hold so many mAh's , there are so many brands that LIE on this point and try to tell you it has more.

Do you recall what the max mAh capacity is for this size? It's also a way to help shop for reputable brands. ( I think 3200mAh is normal sweetspot )

Merry Christmas Bill!
 
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Ok. Got it.
So, the main bummer is that this board cannot be powered by USB-C, and the recommended power input is 12V 3A via 5.5x2.1 barrel jack.
Good news, is that this 3A current takes into account everything that can be possibly connected to the board itself, including full-size 3.5" HDD(which can take up to 1.2-1.5A from the total budget), while the board itself should be just a tad over 7W of power(e.g. worst case 1A budget for the whole thing). Basically, if you are not planning on using a HDD, you can simply get a 20-25W power bank with at least PD2.0 or QC3.0 support, and use a 12V trigger cable to get at least 12V 2A out of it. Then, power the LCD from the ROCKPRO64's USB port and call it a day. Your portable monitor is only 5W max, or even less if you tune down the brightness a bit. My 14" portable touchscreen monitor consumes about 700mA from USB at full brightness, so yours should be less than that(e.g. you can try powering it from one of those USB2.0 ports, so you'll have 3.0 ports available for other stuff).
I'd also recommend getting a cheap slim powerbank with QC/PD support instead of making your own from an enclosure. It'll be cheaper, more reliable. Something like Anker PowerCore III Slim or similar.
At less than $20 it'll be cheaper than finding specifically 35E or 35Q cells(with or without protection).

Trigger cable for the board:

There are also cheap-ass fixed trigger boards without cable. I'm frequently using these for DIY projects and various fixes/conversions(usually when I want something to work from USB).

Another thing to note, is that neither aftermarket powerbanks, nor DIY enclosures work in UPS or passthrough mode, which means all USB outputs are disabled while charging (e.g. your "tablet" will shut down immediately as you connect the charging cable). There is a workaround for this, but it's gonna be more complicated, and more of a DIY project up my valley, and not necessarily beginner-friendly.

I can't use your Anker power bank because it does not fit inside the case. I've looked a long to find the battery charger that has the right dimensions to allow me to close the back of the "tablet". So,unless you find a power back with the dimensions that I've mentioned 8 (= width) x 12 (= lenght) x 2 cm (= depth),I assume that I should mandatory use mine,(together with those batteries since I'm not sure if I can use different batteries with it). So,starting from this point,what I need is to understand what are the rest of the hardware components that I need,I suppose some USB cable power on soc and display from the soc to the USB C of the power bank Please provide a list. At least the technical names and I will try to look where to buy tthem with google. Thanks.
 
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Flat tops have no protection. Button tops have protection.
Yeah, I knew that. Just wondering if 6mm was correct.
I've had a number of button top 18650's go bad.
I've had both kinds go bad. While in theory, more components creates the potential for more points of failure, not sure I have seen a pattern or trend for which is more reliable. I did however, have an unprotected battery fail where, after leaving it in my charger overnight (something I don't normally do) I noticed it was still charging in the morning. Checking the battery and it was uncomfortably hot. :( That battery went into my battery recycle bin.
 
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Yeah, I knew that. Just wondering if 6mm was correct.

I've had both kinds go bad. While in theory, more components creates the potential for more points of failure, not sure I have seen a pattern or trend for which is more reliable. I did however, have an unprotected battery fail where, after leaving it in my charger overnight (something I don't normally do) I noticed it was still charging in the morning. Checking the battery and it was uncomfortably hot. :( That battery went into my battery recycle bin.

Also you should never charge a dented one, it's a fire hazard. I've had them arrive that way and have had to contact merchant for replacements. (they don't want them back) I take pictures.

Yeah, I knew that. Just wondering if 6mm was correct.

I think 6mm is off, like a bastard size not made to standard specs. I've had 9v alkaline's like that that are longer/taller.
 
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qxp

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Or swollen.
YES

I just put the caliper on one I charged last night, and above the crimp to top of button it's like 3.5mm. It's a red UltaFire brand that say's 4000mAh(no way in hell)
 
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depth = 2.7 cm. It does not fit inside the case. You can clearly see from the picture. Please help to find a similar product with a depth of 2 cm otherwise I should pay extra money to ask to some company to create a new enclosure...
 

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Side tracking note - I think a world-wide ban on unprotected 18650 batteries is necessary.
100% disagree. That's one of those situations where if you don't know what are you talking about, it's best to avoid such drastic statements. I understand it's a rant, but it has no real foundation.
1) Besides small consumer electronics and flashlights, you can't use protected cells anywhere. Not even in power banks. Basically any device that uses a multi-cell setup and has a built-in BMS already cannot be properly used with protected cells, because you can't properly balance them as soon as you hit your first full discharge. Also can't be used in power tools for the same reason.
2) If you are concerned with thermal runaway - almost all modern brand-name cells have a thermal fuse built-in (that includes "unprotected" cells).
3) If you actually meant shitty chinese no-name 18650 cells - then it makes a bit more sense (and I would agree with banning those altogether). And from personal experience, in those the protection circuitry dies wa-a-a-ay before the battery itself. Either way, shitty chinese stuff is a cell quality and regulation issue, not the "protection/no protection" issue.
I did however, have an unprotected battery fail where, after leaving it in my charger overnight (something I don't normally do) I noticed it was still charging in the morning. Checking the battery and it was uncomfortably hot. :( That battery went into my battery recycle bin.
That's how all cells die, including protected ones.

I think you were on the right track with 18650, you can get enclosures similar to this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yushu-Universal-Battery-Mobile-Charger/dp/B09ZQFQLSW?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qb7NQ34Uh1Ex1KDRX6zfPviXGV1xDEnWmYrOp2x-ISou3dtIj6trLykZRj7DEiB_qEf53fx1fZvhK4pKNiLHaTUEiwMTws9-lYZc474Hlct1SsCmpGUcLeXk9OMLl_42KVqGkcTbWne_xJ_HU0p4SZZpeCKzIKaFigUuXRCK-6ZPYpa3NfiiXbmyzVwGPTAUbV8myclL0xeDXYIXSJ91-7L2bYs5nGpuUDqlu8ch7J4.bUQWP7T818fnaGZA0Ujxw3w0DMyXbXJ3gKo5WKuKoRw&dib_tag=se&keywords=18650+12V&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1734971694&sr=8-9
They include battery management circuit (BMS) with protection, so you don't need protected batteries, which are easier to get. If your board only needs 3A you also don't need high-amp batteries, making this even simpler.
That's actually perfect. I totally forgot about it. I used to have a similar 24V version for 6 cells. It used to be my UPS for Ubiquiti Edgerouter 10X and GPoN terminal. Has a passthrough charging as well. Though, occasionally it "hangs" after full discharge(need to click a reset button on a PCB to get it going again after recharge).
 
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100% disagree. That's one of those situations where if you don't know what are you talking about, it's best to avoid such drastic statements.
:( Gee whiz. It is really sad, especially as a moderator, one who should keep the peace not disrupt it, that you start your reply by attacking another because you don't agree with their opinion.

That's how all cells die, including protected ones.
No it isn't. Maybe you should heed your own advice before being so anxious to question other people's knowledge.

Cells typically die due to a breakdown in the chemical flow of charged ions. Some times, a short or partial short is formed internally, resulting in an increase in current and thus excessive heat, as in the battery I was referring too. But other times, the breakdown results in an open, resulting in a decrease or cessation of current flow and thus no heat.

1) Besides small consumer electronics and flashlights, you can't use protected cells anywhere. Not even in power banks.
Nonsense. You can use protected cells almost everywhere. You may lose some capacity in some high performance devices, but in most cases the differences are negligible. Something one could easily verify if they just took a couple minutes with Google instead of being so eager to look smart.

Let me do that for you (my bold underline added).

18650 protected battery vs unprotected
FAQ: Can I use a protected 18650 battery in any device?
Protected batteries are compatible with most devices that accept 18650 batteries.

FAQ: Do protected batteries have lower performance?
Protected batteries may have slightly lower performance due to the added circuitry, but the difference often minimal.

Global Batteries.com FAQ: Everything You Need to Know About 18650 Batteries
FAQ: Everything You Need to Know About 18650 Batteries

Can I use a protected 18650 battery in any device?

Yes
, a protected 18650 battery is designed to provide extra safety features such as overcharge protection, short circuit protection, and over-discharge protection. This makes it suitable for use in a wide range of devices, including high-drain devices like flashlights, electric vehicles, and power tools.

Do protected batteries have lower performance?

No
, protected 18650 batteries offer comparable performance to unprotected ones. The protection circuit board does not affect the battery’s capacity or discharge rate. It only adds an extra layer of safety.

Are there exceptions? Of course. I am sure there are a few devices out there that only accept one type or the other, not both. But exceptions don't make rule.

If you actually meant
I would suggest if you don't understand what someone "actually meant" when they express their opinions, you ask for clarification before launching your personal attacks and question their knowledge.

FTR, I meant exactly what I said. That is, I think (as in, it is my opinion) a ban on unprotected 18650 batteries is needed. I went on to explain it is because the industry is unregulated AND they have not self-imposed adequate safety standards to protect us consumers. Sorry you did not understand my reasoning.

I also didn't single out a specific country because poor quality, and unsafe products are not exclusive to any one country.
 
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