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Where I can buy the Samsung 35E 18650 3500mAh 8A -Protected Button Top Batteries.

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€3.45? That seems almost too good to be true.
 
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IMR Batteries however has poor reviews on trustpilot:


So...

Are there exceptions? Of course. I am sure there are a few devices out there that only accept one type or the other, not both. But exceptions don't make rule.
Well... not really. If the data checks out, it should be fine. They're batteries. The voltage needs to be correct, it has to be able to handle the load both for powering the device and being loaded. A device cannot detect the brand of battery plugged in.

You could, for example, take a Samsung 30Q. It only has 3Ah, not 3,5Ah. It has the same voltage and is able to handle more load, so that's fine. It just has less Joule when being fully charged, so the device will need to be charged more often.

and now I want to power on 1 and 2 with a power bank or better,with an enclosure where I can place the batteries that I want. The space left inside the case to place the battery pack is more or less 8 (= width) x 12 (= lenght) x 2 cm (= depth),as you can see below :
I would make sure though to use only one kind of battery. How much voltage do you need? Do you have a circuit diagram already?

€3.45? That seems almost too good to be true.
Nkon is great. I usually order there (have a few Samsung 40T and Molicel P42A). I live in Germany though, so shipping's probably better / cheaper.

But yeah, didn't see that it's unprotected.
 
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Well... not really. If the data checks out, it should be fine. They're batteries. The voltage needs to be correct, it has to be able to handle the load both for powering the device and being loaded. A device cannot detect the brand of battery plugged in.
I agree with you 100% "IF" you go strictly by "theory". While I have personally never seen any, I have heard there are devices that look for and expect one type or the other. And if, for example, a protected battery is not seen, it will refuse to operate. But otherwise, I agree a battery is a battery and if the right voltage, and sufficient current, it "should" work.

As for that price, I looked on Amazon US and about the best I found was $5 - from a name I never heard of. While clearly those Samsungs are not marketed (or marked) for retail selling, they do appear to be genuine Samsung batteries. So to, that is either an incredibly good price, or suspicious.
 
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As for that price, I looked on Amazon US and about the best I found was $5 - from a name I never heard of. While clearly those Samsungs are not marketed (or marked) for retail selling, they do appear to be genuine Samsung batteries. So to, that is either an incredibly good price, or suspicious.
Well, I do vaping. I've known quite a few vapers who bought there, I bought there, I have friends who bought there, and the batteries - at least from what I can tell - always are genuine and work just as expected.

It's also not that suspicious. We have plenty shops in Europe that do very good prices on LiOn-batteries. Like this one. 3,50€.
 
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I am not doubting you. I suspect they buy them in huge volumes and therefore are able to sell them so inexpensively.

As for possibly being suspicious due to their marking - I just meant they are not labeled in a manner that is typical for retail marketing.

That is, if you compare these to yours, one is clearly marked and marketed for retail, the other is marked as a battery that comes packaged and sold with the device it is intended to be used with.
 
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https://imrbatteries.com/products/samsung-35e-18650-3500mah-8a-battery-protected-button-top : can't buy these from italy.

https://dc-akku.de/collections/samsung-sdi/products/samsung-sdi-inr18650-35e-3450mah-8-10a = unprotected.

At this point I have 1 question to ask :

1) In your opinion,this case :


can also use different AND protected batteries than the 18650 ? If yes,please share some links where to buy them. I'm not able to find a shop where I can buy the protected 18650 from Italy and I'm scared about the idea to use the unprotected ones.
 
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Not sure if I want to spend 50$ for 3 batteries...

2024-12-23 21_20_45-Shopping Cart _ NKON — Mozilla Firefox.png
 
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These are less expensive (10€): https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/18650-size/keeppower-18650-3500-li-ion.html

And these are even less expensive (8€), but have less charge: https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/li-ion/18650-size/keeppower-18650-2900mah.html

I mean you could just buy a normal powerbank: https://www.amazon.it/Powerbank-104...96-b59d-3f6807968a1b&pd_rd_i=B07K1D2T5Z&psc=1

LOL

Peel the outer coverings off and they are probably (hopefully) identical.
That's the isolation. Bad idea peeling it off. Battery will probably degas. :D
 
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Ah ok, didnt realize that
 
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1) You don't necessarily need Samsung 35E. There are much cheaper options. I usually go for Liitokala 3400mAh cells with protection (that's what is under that top "button") if it's a 1-cell setup or something like that. Or 3400mAh Panasonic cells without protection, which I use pretty much everywhere (including repacking e-scooter batteries and big charging stations).

1)

I've found a seller who lives almost close to my city who sells the batteries mentioned by you :


anyway I'm not able to understand if they have the protection or not.

2) Taking for granted that I should use the case that I've mentioned more times,what I did not understand is which cables / connectors I need to use to power on the display and the soc. The battery pack that I've chosen offers two USB-C ports,but I read that they are not useful at all,because I can power on the board (with the display attached ) only using this stuff :

a) Trigger cable for the board:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006868018061.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.52b3YKPPYKPPQ5&algo_pvid=3c212316-23dd-4539-97dc-2a3652e857ce&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

2) fixed trigger boards without cable :

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006323268960.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.103.52b3YKPPYKPPQ5&algo_pvid=3c212316-23dd-4539-97dc-2a3652e857ce&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Well,I don't understand how to use those triggers. I can't figure out which cable should be connected for example to the mini board on point 2 (that I like more than 1) ; and generally I don't understand how can I configure the ports and the cables to power on both the soc and the display. Can someone "draw" a scheme for me to help me to understand ? Maybe I need a converter from USB-C to the USB port of the board on point 2 ?
 

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:( Gee whiz. It is really sad, especially as a moderator, one who should keep the peace not disrupt it, that you start your reply by attacking another because you don't agree with their opinion.
Well, if you take my challenge of your competency as a personal attack - then my apologies.
1)

I've found a seller who lives almost close to my city who sells the batteries mentioned by you :

anyway I'm not able to understand if they have the protection or not.
Yes, it's basically panasonic NCR18650B with protection board. Good cells. I use those without protection for e-scooter batteries all the time. Max continuous current is 6A, so it should be good even for moderate loads.
. I'm not able to find a shop where I can buy the protected 18650 from Italy and I'm scared about the idea to use the unprotected ones.
From the end-user perspective there is no difference. All that little protection board does, is prevents overcharge and deep discharge(shuts down the output). OCP and OTP never works even if claimed in spec. If you put it in a power bank, the charge controller will take care of overcharge and critical discharge instead, so no need to sweat.
Well,I don't understand how to use those triggers. I can't figure out which cable should be connected for example to the mini board on point 2 (that I like more than 1) ; and generally I don't understand how can I configure the ports and the cables to power on both the soc and the display. Can someone "draw" a scheme for me to help me to understand ? Maybe I need a converter from USB-C to the USB port of the board on point 2 ?
Trigger cables or trigger boards work the following way: you connect it to the power bank, and the IC inside of it tells that "hi, I am a device that supports QC3.0 and I need 12V". Power bank then bumps the output voltage automatically. So, if you buy a pre-made cable with DC barrel jack and fixed voltage trigger, you don't need to do anything.
Also, most small cheap powerbanks only support one QC/PD device at the time, e.g. your second USB port will likely stay at 5V regardless of triggers and may glitch out if you are already pulling max power from the first port (that's why it's better to power the display from ROCKPro64).
And that's the reason why I recomended another powerbank, cause the one in your first post only supports 5V2A output per port. No QuickCharge or PowerDelivery. Or get that enclosure which @qxp mentioned. It's basically the exact thing you need, and it will not require any trigger cables. And it's small.

It's already 3AM where I'm from, so I'll try to draw a quick diagram for you a bit later. I'm off to get some sleep.


.
 
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Well, if you take my challenge of your competency as a personal attack - then my apologies.

Yes, it's basically panasonic NCR18650B with protection board. Good cells. I use those without protection for e-scooter batteries all the time. Max continuous current is 6A, so it should be good even for moderate loads.

From the end-user perspective there is no difference. All that little protection board does, is prevents overcharge and deep discharge(shuts down the output). OCP and OTP never works even if claimed in spec. If you put it in a power bank, the charge controller will take care of overcharge and critical discharge instead, so no need to sweat.

Trigger cables or trigger boards work the following way: you connect it to the power bank, and the IC inside of it tells that "hi, I am a device that supports QC3.0 and I need 12V". Power bank then bumps the output voltage automatically. So, if you buy a pre-made cable with DC barrel jack and fixed voltage trigger, you don't need to do anything.
Also, most small cheap powerbanks only support one QC/PD device at the time, e.g. your second USB port will likely stay at 5V regardless of triggers and may glitch out if you are already pulling max power from the first port (that's why it's better to power the display from ROCKPro64).
And that's the reason why I recomended another powerbank, cause the one in your first post only supports 5V2A output per port. No QuickCharge or PowerDelivery. Or get that enclosure which @qxp mentioned. It's basically the exact thing you need, and it will not require any trigger cables. And it's small.

It's already 3AM where I'm from, so I'll try to draw a quick diagram for you a bit later. I'm off to get some sleep..

Thanks. The diagram will help me a lot to understand. I think that I will try to use the board provided by the powerbank that @qxp mentioned and the enclosure that has been used by the powerbank snown in my first post. That's because the enclosure mentioned by @qxp does not fit on my tablet enclosure,but the first enclosure does it. If both accepts the same kind of batteries it means that I can exchange the enclosures without problems and that the design chosen for the second powerbank can be changed. Probably there is some millimeters that can be "cut" and saved. I mean,the first enclosure has a depth of 2 cm,the second one 2.7. I hope that the 7 mm that the second one has more than the first one are superfluous and useless.
 
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That's the isolation. Bad idea peeling it off.
Insulation - sure. Please note I was not suggesting, nor do I recommend anyone open any battery and potentially exposing themselves to the caustic chemicals within. I should have been more specific and said "labels" and not "coverings". My bad :oops: and apologies for not being more clear.

@ziomario - I note here in the US, battery stores are popping up in many locations. I didn't see where in Italy you live but, for example, Google shows Milan has several battery stores. Doctor Battery is an example. No guarantee but there might be someone at the store who actually knows something about batteries you can talk face-to-face with. Even if not, if you take your device with you, you might be able to find a 18650 battery that physically fits your device.

***

if you take my challenge of your competency as a personal attack - then my apologies.
Challenge? This isn't a contest.

And you didn't "challenge". You were clear. You not only disagreed with my "opinion" about a need for industry standards for public safety in those batteries, you then "accused" me of having no technical knowledge on the topic, and then said I should not even make "such drastic statements".

One does not need to be an electrical engineer to understand a need for, or to express an opinion about safety regulations for batteries. One does not need to be a mechanical engineer to understand the need for, or to express an opinion about safety regulations for automobiles. One does not need to be a doctor or pharmacist to understand the need for, or to express an opinion about drug safety regulations.

But you didn't stop there. After accusing me of not knowing what I was talking about, you said my opinion has no "foundation". Really? I am shocked you don't appear to understand that it is common for safety laws and regulations to change entire technologies just to include/incorporate safety features.

"Challenge of your competency"? Now that's an interesting choice of words - this after you claimed, not opined, but claimed as technical fact that "all cells die" by overheating, which is clearly wrong. And that after you also claimed, with no supporting evidence, "you can't use protected cells anywhere. Not even in power banks". Also clearly wrong as I showed with 2 links to corroborating evidence.

But hey! What do I know? As seen by the link in my sig, I've only been a certified electronics tech who's worked with batteries of all sorts for over 50 years so obviously I still have much to learn.

That said, if your accusations and attempts to stifle expressing an opinion you 100% disagree with was not meant as a personal attack, then, in the spirit of the season, I accept your apology.

Have a good day and Merry Christmas to all.
 

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And you didn't "challenge". You were clear. You not only disagreed with my "opinion" about a need for industry standards for public safety in those batteries, you then "accused" me of having no technical knowledge on the topic, and then said I should not even make "such drastic statements".
Don't wanna turn it into some holywar or personal drama over built-in cell protection. Let's create a new thread about lithium batteries to discuss it separately and I will explain to you in detail why you do need to know at least few things about lithium-ion cells, their protection circuits, what they do (and what they do not), without hijacking the thread with random rants.
 
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Let's create a new thread

Let's not. Clearly you don't understand the point. This has nothing to do with the technical facts concerning batteries. This is about you stifling other's opinions you don't agree with.

Consider me stifled. Moving on.
 
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No need. My comment was not that serious.
Thanks. My initial comment was not meant to be taken that seriously either. I just didn't want anyone to take it literally. Sadly, it has happened before. That's a problem with the typed word by those like me who clearly are not professional authors - readers cannot see our facial expressions or body language, or hear our tone of voice and therefore are not always able to interpret our words exactly as intended.
 
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--> @ziomario - I note here in the US, battery stores are popping up in many locations. I didn't see where in Italy you live but, for example, Google shows Milan has several battery stores. Doctor Battery is an example. No guarantee but there might be someone at the store who actually knows something about batteries you can talk face-to-face with. Even if not, if you take your device with you, you might be able to find a 18650 battery that physically fits your device.

Point here is not the battery anymore,but the battery enclosure,that should fit inside the "tablet" enclosure. I have bought an enclosure that's good for my project out of the box. I don't want to spend more money by calling a company that will create a new enclosure from scratch.

I think that I will try to use the board provided by the powerbank that @qxp mentioned and the enclosure that has been used by the powerbank snown in my first post. That's because the enclosure mentioned by @qxp does not fit on my tablet enclosure,but the first enclosure does it. If both accepts the same kind of batteries it means that I can exchange the enclosures without problems and that the design chosen for the second powerbank can be changed. Probably there is some millimeters that can be "cut" and saved. I mean,the first enclosure has a depth of 2 cm,the second one 2.7. I hope that the 7 mm that the second one has more than the first one are superfluous and useless.
 
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Point here is not the battery anymore,but the battery enclosure,that should fit inside the "tablet" enclosure. I have bought an enclosure that's good for my project out of the box. I don't want to spend more money by calling a company that will create a new enclosure from scratch.
Ah. Sorry. I think I understand now. If aesthetics are not a top priority, and if you don't need to remove the batteries every time they need charging, perhaps gluing the batteries inside with a hot glue gun would work. What is nice about using hot glue is that it is only semi-permanent. Also, the melted hot-glue cools and sets so quickly, it will firmly attach without exposing the battery to too much heat for any significant amount of time. Just a thought.
 
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Display(s) Samsung S24E650BW LED x 2
Case Fractal Design Define R4
Power Supply EVGA Supernova 550W G2 Gold
Mouse Logitech M190
Keyboard Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5050
Software W10 Pro 64-bit
Sounds like a plan! :) I note there are 100s of different clips, holders, contacts, and connectors to choose from that (at least from the outside) would give you a very professional appearance and most importantly, a safe and secure solution.
 
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