Buttons, Scroll Wheel

Main buttons on the MM830 are pretty good, although they could use some extra tactility as they are not the snappiest I've tried. However, they pretty much have no unnecessary travel and are nicely spammable. The switches used are Omron D2FC-F-K models with a nominal lifespan of 50 million clicks.


I can only repeat myself: the scroll wheel could also use some extra tactility and snappiness—there is some play inside the notches. I'm pretty sure the axle of the scroll wheel is not long enough to properly sit inside the encoder. This issue most probably won't bother anyone, but from an objective point of view, it shouldn't exist. The encoder is an Alps model, which is great news as these usually last very long.


The middle mouse button has a noticeably higher actuation force than the main buttons, but it's still quite comfortable to use. Its travel is average and has no unnecessary play, and the switch is a Huano model with a white plunger.


We've arrived to one of the main marketing points of the mouse, which is the hidden D-pad underneath the rubber side grip on the left side of the shell. You can see its internal design in the second picture; it pretty much consists of just four SMD micro switches on a separate PCB, so we're thankfully not talking about a four-way switch here. As for its usability, I would much prefer a simpler design. I found these buttons small and sometimes hard to access. They have a lot of tension as well, which I guess is purposely done to eliminate accidental clicks.


Lastly, the CPI button is good for the task; it's sunk into the shell rather well, so no accidental actuations should occur. Rather tactile and spammable, its tension is moderately high, which means it's a tad stiffer than the middle click. The switch used here is a standard, Panasonic EVQP0-styled square switch, but I'm not sure of the manufacturer.

I also made a video in order to demonstrate how the buttons sound:

Mouse Feet

There are three large mouse feet on on the bottom plate of the mouse. These have nicely rounded contact edges that provide a smooth and consistent glide with an average amount of friction. Once again, I'd love to see manufacturers use pure PTFE here, but I guess it wouldn't be very cost-efficient. Unfortunately, there are no extra mouse feet included with the mouse, which is quite a letdown for nearly $80.

Cable

For a braided cable, it is surprisingly thin and flexible, which is quite rare. It doesn't generate much drag or resistance at all, and I love to see this on a mouse. While still not on par with the Dream Machines DM1 FPS or newer FinalMouse products, it's definitely a thousand times better than most of the mice currently out in the market. 1.8 m long, it should generally be long enough for most people, and the USB connector is gold-plated.

Disassembling

Disassembling the MM830 is a nightmare, so I'd absolutely advise against it if the mouse didn't have those pesky built-in weights. There are a total of five Torx-head screws beneath the mouse feet, which I could extract with a T5x40 Torx screwdriver. I couldn't do it with a standard Philips-head screwdriver at all, or with any Allen keys, so the task really does require a specific tool.

Once the main screws are removed, you have to unscrew two more screws underneath the main buttons. These screws are standard Philips-head screws, but accessing them is ridiculously hard, and I'm not sure if it can be done without breaking anything. You need to take off the main buttons by popping them out somehow, and I really don't have a proper tutorial for it as even I ended up breaking their holder parts. After reassembly, the buttons feel exactly the same as before, so breaking them didn't seem to cause any issues, but I guess this may vary depending on the damage done.