Buttons, Scroll Wheel

Main buttons have Omron D2FC-F-K switches underneath, which have a nominal lifespan of 50 million clicks. The buttons themselves feel fantastic; they are of medium tension and pretty much have no play or unnecessary pre-travel. They do have very slight and negligible over-travel after actuation and are tactile and nicely spammable, with a superb overall click feel.


Scrolling is nice and tactile and of medium resistance, which makes it suitable for heavy scrolling, but it's even better for precisely finding each notch. The encoder is a 11 mm tall black core Kailh model.


The middle mouse button is the only one on this rodent I don't like. It's very stiff, takes a lot of force to actuate, and doesn't feel too snappy either. It is operated by an elevated square switch without any branding.


The side buttons are the opposite—they are nicely spammable, tactile, and have a light to medium tension. They don't have any unnecessary travel and use flat yellow plunger Kailh models with a standard 3-legged layout.


The CPI changers have similar specifications to the side buttons; they are very similar in terms of feel and actuation force. They use standard white plunger Kailh switches.

I also made a video in order to demonstrate how the buttons sound:

Mouse Feet

Mouse feet are noticeably better than average on the Glaive—after you remove their protective film, of course. They offer a smooth glide with low to medium friction and well-rounded contact edges. Unfortunately, no replacement feet are in the box, which is a bit of a letdown at this price point.

Cable

Just like with the previous few Corsair mice, the Glaive RGB Pro features the same horribly stiff, thick, and heavy braided cable. It generates a lot of resistance and drag on the mouse pad, so affixing it in place is definitely recommended (although I'd instantly swap to a more flexible cable after purchase, which usually voids the warranty). It's 1.8 meters long, and the connector follows the USB 2.0 standard.

Disassembling

Disassembling this product doesn't take too much effort. You just need to remove five Philips-head screws from beneath the bottom mouse feet before simply popping the two main shells apart. However, be careful as there's an internal ribbon cable that connects the upper and lower PCBs that is quite easy to accidentally tear.