Build Quality

Overall build quality is very solid. There is no rattle when shaking the mouse. When applying lateral pressure, minor creaking of the shell can be observed. It's impossible to activate the side buttons by squeezing the sides. Lastly, no accidental clicks occur when slamming the mouse down.

Buttons

Main buttons on the Light² 200 are very good. Pre-travel is very low and post-travel is moderate, which results in a firm and satisfying click feel. The buttons are separated from the shell, yet there is only minor button wiggle. Button stiffness is light. Overall, the main buttons are highly reminiscent of the clicks on the Glorious Model D/O/O-, which comes as no surprise as Omron D2FC-F-7N (20M) (OF) switches are used here, too.


Side buttons are excellent. Both pre and post-travel are low, resulting in a snappy click response. The pressure point is even across the entire button, too. Button size and placement is good as actuation is possible rather easily by rolling one's thumb over these. Huano switches (white plunger) are used for these.

At the top of the mouse is a single button for cycling through the set CPI levels. Its click feel is very good as well. An unbranded square switch (blue plunger) is used for this one. A slider at the bottom of the mouse controls the polling rate—it works fine as well.

Scroll Wheel

The scroll wheel is very good. Neither scrolling up or down produces any unwanted noise. The individual steps lack separation though, resulting in average tactility. The encoder is a brown F-switch. The middle (scroll wheel) click requires medium force for actuation. A Huano switch (green plunger) is used here.

Coating

The Light² 200 has a matte UV coating all over. It's quite grippy and doesn't attract fingerprints, dirt, or the likes too much. It's easy to clean, and there are no signs of wear left after doing so. All in all, an excellent coating.

Button Sound Test

Disassembly

Disassembling the Light² 200 is very easy. Just remove the two rear mouse feet, unscrew the screws, and pop the top and bottom shell apart (the former is clipped in at the front). The internal design is equally simple. Everything sits on a single PCB except for the side buttons, which sit on their own PCB screwed into the top shell and connected to the main PCB through a 3-pin JST connector. The main PCB is affixed to the bottom shell by two screws. All PCBs are rather thin. The MCU is a WTU301 N360-C, which is known from the Xtrfy M4 or Abkoncore A900.


As for the soldering and general quality of the PCB, I'm unable to find any noteworthy flaws.