SPC Gear LIX Plus Review 3

SPC Gear LIX Plus Review

Sensor & Performance »

Build Quality

Overall build quality is very solid. There is no rattle when shaking the mouse. When applying lateral pressure, no creaking of the shell can be observed. It's impossible to activate the side buttons by squeezing the sides. Lastly, when slamming the mouse down, no accidental clicks occur.

Buttons


Main buttons on the LIX Plus are very good. Both pre and post-travel are low, resulting in a firm and snappy click response. Despite the buttons being separated from the shell, only minor button movement can be provoked. Button stiffness is light. Omron D2FC-F-K (50M) (China) switches are used.

Although not present at first, over time the left mouse button developed a tendency to squeak occasionally. A similar phenomenon could be observed on the first batch of the Glorious Model O.


Side buttons are good. Pre and post-travel are moderate, yet the click feel is still quite good and tactile. The pressure point is even across the entire button. Their size and positioning is good, which makes it easy to actuate them by rolling one's thumb over these. Two Huano switches (red plunger) are used here.

At the top of the mouse is a single button which cycles through the set CPI levels. Its click feel is decent. Another Huano switch (red plunger) is used for this one.

Scroll Wheel


The scroll wheel is very good. There is no unwanted noise when scrolling, but the steps aren't as separated, resulting in below average tactility. The encoder is a black F-Switch. The middle (scroll wheel) click requires medium force for actuation. Yet another Huano switch (red plunger) is used for the wheel click.

Coating

The LIX Plus has a black matte coating all over. It's very grippy and doesn't attract fingerprints, dirt or the likes too much. It's easy to clean, and there are no signs of wear left after doing so. All in all, an excellent coating.

Button Sound Test


Disassembly


Opening the LIX Plus is very simple. Remove the two rear feet and unscrew the two screws beneath them, which should have the top shell should come off with ease. The design is equally simple. Everything but the side buttons sits on the main PCB. The side buttons sit on their own PCB, which is clipped into a mount onto the bottom shell and connected to the main PCB using a 3-pin connector. A small elevated PCB holds the LED used for illuminating the scroll wheel. The main PCB is affixed to the bottom shell by two screws. There's a screw hole for a third one, but it is not used. The MCU is a Bayi BY8948-00006, which can be found on the Glorious Model D as well.


As for the soldering and general quality of the PCB, I'm unable to find any noteworthy flaws.
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Feb 7th, 2025 20:17 EST change timezone

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