Buttons, Scroll Wheel

While the main buttons are very light on this mouse, they are thankfully not mushy and can easily spammable. There is no pre-travel, or any play before actuation, but there's some post-travel after actuation. Sometimes, they emit a creaky sound after actuation and over-travel. The switches in use here are Omron D2FC-F-7N models rated for 20 million clicks—they have an OF tag, which means they are reworked models with a higher life expectancy.


Scrolling is pretty good with the scroll wheel, but could use some extra tactility. The notches are somewhat well separated and of medium resistance to scroll through. The encoder is a 14 mm tall black core TTC model.


The middle button is moderately hard to actuate, which is common with gaming mice as it reduces accidental clicks while scrolling. This is a feature I greatly dislike because it makes buttons quite tiring to use excessively. The switch is a red plunger YSA model.


Both side buttons sound rather hollow, but their click feel is surprisingly good. There is no unnecessary travel or play here either—they feel nice and tactile. The switch type is a Kailh model with a red plunger.


Lastly, the CPI button beneath the scroll wheel is of medium resistance—it's very tactile and spammable, and not in the way of accidental presses. As for the switch, it's a red plunger YSA model.

I also made a video in order to demonstrate how the buttons sound:

Mouse Feet

Mouse feet are surprisingly good on this mouse, and I'm pretty sure it's because of their well-rounded contact edges. Their friction is pretty low compared to the competition, and the glide is very smooth. Big thumbs up for the design, but not for the lack replacements in the package.

Cable

The cable is an average braided one, which means it's pretty stiff and thick and tends to generate a good amount of resistance while using the mouse. I'd highly advise affixing it with a bungee or some tape. It is 2 m long, and the USB 2.0 connector is gold-plated.

Disassembling

As for taking the Control R1 apart, it's very easy and forgiving. There are two screws beneath the bottom mouse feet you need to remove before you can simply remove the top shell. All electronics are mounted on the bottom plate, so the upper shell doesn't have any connecting cables.