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What's your latest tech purchase?

Because case internal temps are much better with the GPU under water (somehow since doesn't that heat still go into the case in the end??:confused:), no longer had to run an extra fan on the side bracket to keep the RAM below 50. Now the Silent Wings in the top of the case can do the job alone. Previously CPU-only loop had Motherboard temps in the 45-55C range, now Motherboard temps stay in the 30-40C range under load.

And because of that, can finally run this case's acrylic side panel for the first time :)

View attachment 228041



You know what's funny, my first impression was that water was holding me back, because in quite a few of my games the GPU wasn't even drawing close to the 180W it should be hitting at max load. Sometimes as low as just 120W, but utilization still relatively high and effective clocks sitting comfortably over 2000MHz. Then I realized it was probably because of the FPS cap I set for better smoothness :D but still mostly the same phenomenon without the cap

I tried OC scanner, but it failed miserably and told me +65 core/+100 mem and that it would be unstable. So I just Alt+clicked my existing undervolt curve up a few notches at one volt point higher (0.994V??) and I'll probably just keep going until I start running into instability. Have memory sitting at +500 now but probably a fair bit more room due to being Samsung
That's clean. The only thing I would do is blacken out the psu label, but clean is king. Nice.
 
I'm trying out this Logitech Master MX 3 mouse. It's big, very comfortable and has an amazing infinite scroll wheel and a horizontal scroll which is useful for timelines etc. Also the battery life is amazing, lasting for days on end. No RGB of course, which probably helps the battery life.
As for gaming, it works just fine with no difference in performance to my wired Corsair M65 Pro.

View attachment 228038 View attachment 228039
I love the wheel on that mouse. Next level
 
Because case internal temps are much better with the GPU under water (somehow since doesn't that heat still go into the case in the end??:confused:), no longer had to run an extra fan on the side bracket to keep the RAM below 50. Now the Silent Wings in the top of the case can do the job alone. Previously CPU-only loop had Motherboard temps in the 45-55C range, now Motherboard temps stay in the 30-40C range under load.

And because of that, can finally run this case's acrylic side panel for the first time :)

View attachment 228041



You know what's funny, my first impression was that water was holding me back, because in quite a few of my games the GPU wasn't even drawing close to the 180W it should be hitting at max load. Sometimes as low as just 120W, but utilization still relatively high and effective clocks sitting comfortably over 2000MHz. Then I realized it was probably because of the FPS cap I set for better smoothness :D but still mostly the same phenomenon without the cap

I tried OC scanner, but it failed miserably and told me +65 core/+100 mem and that it would be unstable. So I just Alt+clicked my existing undervolt curve up a few notches at one volt point higher (0.994V??) and I'll probably just keep going until I start running into instability. Have memory sitting at +500 now but probably a fair bit more room due to being Samsung


it is artwork what you are doing.
start a company and sell it as such.
you will find plenty of collectors...




Art GIF
 
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Im assuming this is your build. Very impressive!

How on earth did you manage a push/pull config on the thickest rad ive seen and yet in a small tower case and still make it look presentably spacious. Dunno what you call that tap-like pipe on the rear, it ties in nicely and looks way more convenient then having it on the inside. To top it off, the liquid cooled GPU!! I'm jealous!

More about the rad... how much of a difference do these thicker rads make compared to the standard sized rads floating about?
 
That's clean. The only thing I would do is blacken out the psu label, but clean is king. Nice.

Any good ideas as to how? I've been thinking about my options. I can't really flip it because I want the PSU to intake its own cold air. Thinking maybe a thin black 3D printed plate of some kind with double sided tape?

Im assuming this is your build. Very impressive!

How on earth did you manage a push/pull config on the thickest rad ive seen and yet in a small tower case and still make it look presentably spacious. Dunno what you call that tap-like pipe on the rear, it ties in nicely and looks way more convenient then having it on the inside. To top it off, the liquid cooled GPU!! I'm jealous!

More about the rad... how much of a difference do these thicker rads make compared to the standard sized rads floating about?

Thanks. It's not really that thick of a rad, 45mm is pretty middle of the road. But I bought the XT45 with my white Cerberus (mATX) in mind, so in that context it is a thick rad :) I regret it because I could easily fit in the Cerberus X a 54mm HWLabs GTX (easily the endgame rad for me) or even a 60mm Alphacool UT60 without any issue.

What seems to matter much more is having push/pull. On CPU-only, I was doing 33C water temp with push only @ 1300rpm and pump 3500rpm. On CPU+GPU, now I have 31-35C water temp with push/pull @ 950rpm and 1300rpm and pump 3500rpm - and it's whisper quiet now because the 1300rpm fans are on pull so don't make any noise.

It's a Cerberus X so it could theoretically do ATX and water at the same time, but not in this configuration. Usually with rad in front and PSU over the board (I'm not a fan of that), or thin rad only with pull fans (likely poor performance).

In the white Cerberus I originally had the ball valve for draining on the bottom of the external res. Huge mistake. When it came time to drain in order to put the GPU in, got water everywhere and nearly into my board, because lots of tilting needed to get the water out. Then I remembered that the XT45 has a dedicated drain port that I used when I flushed it, so thankfully I put the drain there instead. Shouldn't be any problems in the future.

cerberus x empty crop.jpg
 
Any good ideas as to how? I've been thinking about my options. I can't really flip it because I want the PSU to intake its own cold air. Thinking maybe a thin black 3D printed plate of some kind with double sided tape?
Hmm some black vinyl wrap would do the job.
 
Any good ideas as to how? I've been thinking about my options. I can't really flip it because I want the PSU to intake its own cold air. Thinking maybe a thin black 3D printed plate of some kind with double sided tape?
You have tons of non-permanent options.

A piece of black construction paper (or other black paper). Electrical tape. Gaffer tape. A piece of black felt cloth.

Even those thin sheets of black foam that appear in a lot of computer accessory boxes. Hell, I know I've accumulated a bunch from various Noctua accessories (your photo includes their fans).

One thing about gaffer tape is that it is both matte and has a slightly pebbly texture, similar to the metal of the PSU enclosure.
 
Because case internal temps are much better with the GPU under water (somehow since doesn't that heat still go into the case in the end??:confused:), no longer had to run an extra fan on the side bracket to keep the RAM below 50. Now the Silent Wings in the top of the case can do the job alone. Previously CPU-only loop had Motherboard temps in the 45-55C range, now Motherboard temps stay in the 30-40C range under load.

And because of that, can finally run this case's acrylic side panel for the first time :)

View attachment 228041



You know what's funny, my first impression was that water was holding me back, because in quite a few of my games the GPU wasn't even drawing close to the 180W it should be hitting at max load. Sometimes as low as just 120W, but utilization still relatively high and effective clocks sitting comfortably over 2000MHz. Then I realized it was probably because of the FPS cap I set for better smoothness :D but still mostly the same phenomenon without the cap

I tried OC scanner, but it failed miserably and told me +65 core/+100 mem and that it would be unstable. So I just Alt+clicked my existing undervolt curve up a few notches at one volt point higher (0.994V??) and I'll probably just keep going until I start running into instability. Have memory sitting at +500 now but probably a fair bit more room due to being Samsung
probably cooler because the heats spread out over the entirety of the case, and not focused into one area
 
I was farting about with my GTX1080 last night, stock clock is 1600Mhz

It auto boosts to 2150Mhz
Reminds me that my Navi can't do 2150 Mhz, unfortunately, IIRC. (RX 5600 XT) PC will crash hard, if I try, Superposition will fail with a hard crash! Stock is 16xx Mhz. That's with the custom VBIOS.
The best I possibly can get, is around 2040 Mhz, I bet. It seemed that 1137 mV was a sweet spot.

I wish I could get a GTX 1080 used to fart around with, LOL. (and not damaged or faulty) Same with a GTX 1070. But, I did get an RX 580 in 2019, that's in the other Ryzen rig now. (with the Pinnacle Ridge)

This year, I popped that GTX 1660 Super into my newest Intel build, which is a Comet Lake with a Z490 motherboard. (Core i5 10600K with MSI Z490 Tomahawk)
 
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Update after using it over the day:
this monitor is SO MUCH better than the brand new strix xg27uqr. way less overshoot, less ghosting/smearing and it is very bright even at 40%.
and i only have one single pink subpixel in the bottom right corner (the Strix monitor had 6-7)
as bad as gigabytes reputation currently is... this monitor is like a 144Hz odyssey G7 in 4k

20211208_142616.jpg
 
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already a LOT better than the new ROG Strix XG27UQR

View attachment 228104
Even if current generation 27" UHD144 panels seem to have much better response times, that is my current favourite monitor on the market - a great balance of performance, size, resolution and features. Hope it serves you well!
 
sometimes i wonder how about a $1 utp cable :D :D
and yeah it works well, the rj is good, the cable is fine just not stiff like usual cable. you can't ask for more for that price
20211207_165440.jpg
 
Bought a GPU. Last photo is the new one with the old one (RX 6800 XT) it's replacing. Have had it with all the AMD driver bugs, had to go nVidia so I can just relax and game without worrying what new glitch I am gonna find in a game. But still feel kidna bad for the poor Radeon, it will likely end up in a mining rig, nobody but miners are willing to buy GPUs these days (unless one undersells, which I am not willing to do).
 

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Bought a GPU. Last photo is the new one with the old one (RX 6800 XT) it's replacing. Have had it with all the AMD driver bugs, had to go nVidia so I can just relax and game without worrying what new glitch I am gonna find in a game. But still feel kidna bad for the poor Radeon, it will likely end up in a mining rig, nobody but miners are willing to buy GPUs these days (unless one undersells, which I am not willing to do).
That's a nice gpu :) What bugs (in what games) have you encountered with the 6800? The only game I've seen any glitches in with my 6900XT has been Deathloop (and that was pretty minor), but then not everyone plays the same games!
 
That's a nice gpu :) What bugs (in what games) have you encountered with the 6800? The only game I've seen any glitches in with my 6900XT has been Deathloop (and that was pretty minor), but then not everyone plays the same games!

What pissed me off most was Dishonored 2 (same engine as Deathloop, Radeons likely just don't get along with Void engine). Made a thread about it here. It is pretty minor, yes, but I play immersive sims to get immersed, not to get thrown out of it by weirdness in the picture. Also, same game, crazy FPS drops. Now I am a high-FPS snob (120+ FPS me very likey) and in Dishonored, there were places where FPS went down to like 70 (rare, but it happened). Same place, RTX 3080 Ti - 100 FPS!
Another one was Godfall. Now, it's not the best game ever, but I kinda like it, fun to give it a play once every few days. Irony is that it's an AMD sponsored title but if you turn on ray-tracing, it starts crashing like crazy with the 6800 XT. Almost every time you load back to the Sanctum, boom, driver crashed.
Performance in Division 2 was also a disappointment. It's an AMD sponsored title, supports DX12, but the 3080 produces better FPS. Much better with the 3080 Ti.
I was happy with the Radeon at first, but the more I played, the more I got bothered by the above. Both Division 2 and Dishonored 2 are a much better experience with the 3080 Ti. And no crashing in Godfall. Although I must admit that I turned ray-tracing off in that game, as the implementation is terrible and shadows look better not ray-traced.
 
What pissed me off most was Dishonored 2 (same engine as Deathloop, Radeons likely just don't get along with Void engine). Made a thread about it here. It is pretty minor, yes, but I play immersive sims to get immersed, not to get thrown out of it by weirdness in the picture. Also, same game, crazy FPS drops. Now I am a high-FPS snob (120+ FPS me very likey) and in Dishonored, there were places where FPS went down to like 70 (rare, but it happened). Same place, RTX 3080 Ti - 100 FPS!
Another one was Godfall. Now, it's not the best game ever, but I kinda like it, fun to give it a play once every few days. Irony is that it's an AMD sponsored title but if you turn on ray-tracing, it starts crashing like crazy with the 6800 XT. Almost every time you load back to the Sanctum, boom, driver crashed.
Performance in Division 2 was also a disappointment. It's an AMD sponsored title, supports DX12, but the 3080 produces better FPS. Much better with the 3080 Ti.
I was happy with the Radeon at first, but the more I played, the more I got bothered by the above. Both Division 2 and Dishonored 2 are a much better experience with the 3080 Ti. And no crashing in Godfall. Although I must admit that I turned ray-tracing off in that game, as the implementation is terrible and shadows look better not ray-traced.
Hm, that's weird. It does indeed sound like there's an issue with Void engine - my Deathloop thing was flickering guns and items. More present in one way, but on the other hand less - guns are something at least I look past more than at, after all. Haven't played Godfall or Division 2, so I can't comment on that, but I do have Death of the Outsider lined up on my to play list (god, that backlog just gets longer and longer), so I might take a look if that has some weirdness too.

Good to hear that you're not seeing anything like that with the new GPU though! No doubt you'll run into other stuff in other games, but fingers crossed it will be less annoying than these bugs :)
 
Update after using it over the day:
this monitor is SO MUCH better than the brand new strix xg27uqr. way less overshoot, less ghosting/smearing and it is very bright even at 40%.
and i only have one single pink subpixel in the bottom right corner (the Strix monitor had 6-7)
as bad as gigabytes reputation currently is... this monitor is like a 144Hz odyssey G7 in 4k

View attachment 228104
That's literally the 4K version of my monitor
I can overclock mine to 4K and it "just works" (my chromecast etc, all see it as 4K native anyway)
It's just that mine has the older HDMI/DP standards and can only handle 4K 80Hz :(

Everything is great about the monitor except 'Gsync' cause flicker within certain FPS ranges

Edit: Oh and i bought a new socket to terminate my VDSL connection to, since the previous owner/techie did such a piss poor job. Didnt even have the plastic cap on the end, so the wire came loose and fell out causing me to hunt for why my internet died

I forgot to take pics while doing the repair work tho, just imagine sheer godllike perfection and whatnot

(I changed the plate to RJ45, so i can use a short patch cable to 'extend' the line to the socket i wanted to use in the center of of the house, but a regular RJ11 will fit in just fine for any future owners, this is a rental after all)

1639028390698.png
 
but do you gain anything from doing that?
last i checked pixel density isnt exactly something you can overclock :D
 
but do you gain anything from doing that?
last i checked pixel density isnt exactly something you can overclock :D
It looks native. I'm pretty sure they used the same panel in the 4K screens and the 2K screens, just with different inputs

It works great for me cause i can set 4k 60 and use moonlight to stream 3090 goodness to the HTPC in the lounge, with a nice 1:1 signal
 
thats ... interesting
I took photos of your comment at 2K and 4K, then put them side by side and screenshot them

1639028936151.png

You tell me which ones which :P
(In person 4K looks a tiny bit softer, like i need to up sharpening the tiniest bit)
 
It looks native. I'm pretty sure they used the same panel in the 4K screens and the 2K screens, just with different inputs

It works great for me cause i can set 4k 60 and use moonlight to stream 3090 goodness to the HTPC in the lounge, with a nice 1:1 signal

My tv's have remote display built in, I can just broadcast my main rig into the living room if I want, though I haven't played too much with it I can also do it with my laptop if I don't underclock too much.

In display settings just click connect to wireless display. It also sends sound to the wireless display.

display.jpg
 
Interesting. There's one way to tell it for sure, which is a 50% dot pattern (see images below). If it moires on the 4K setting then it's not 4K native.
 

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Interesting. There's one way to tell it for sure, which is a 50% dot pattern (see images below). If it moires on the 4K setting then it's not 4K native.
I am not 100% sure what i was looking for there, they looked rather bad zooming in and out with cool optical illusion effects tho

Phone camera, compression etc may ruin what you're looking for but they seemed fine in person (and i appreciate new ways to test if its working properly, too)

Put the OSD up on top too, so you can see the monitor also claims its 4K (and not a software scaled resolution)

1639030079256.jpeg1639030111434.jpeg
 
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