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TPU's Nostalgic Hardware Club

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Yes, I know this is wasteful.
It really was, that's a good TIM, even by today's standards.
A lot of it for just one cooler - 3.5g.
BITD, Zalman presumed that users would need to do more than one or two applications and they wanted to provide their users with enough to last a while. They were a great company.
 
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Amiga Forever is probably the simplest way to get into emulation. It is also the only fully legal option, as it includes licenced Amiga ROM and OS files, with a selection of games and other software. Those are the systems emulated by Amiga Forever and C64 Forever:

View attachment 241156
Not sure if you can upgrade from the version you found online, as the Value Edition is also a paid option.
I have just looked on there site and i can 19.95 saving 10 pound.s.:) and checked to see what extras i get for upgrading that will give me the full experience of Amiga. :)I don,t want to go to the Premium Edition
40 pounds is to much.I just got this back from the Royal Mail message i sent
*Delivery has failed to these recipients or groups:
Your message couldn't be delivered. When Office 365 tried to send the message, the external email server returned the error below. This is probably due to a problem or policy setting on the recipient's email system.
Check the error for information about the problem. The error might tell you what went wrong and how to fix it. For example, if it says the message was blocked due to a potential virus, try sending the message again without attachments.*That was the only reason i sent it to show the photos.
 
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Processor 5800X3D -30 CO
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I have just looked on there site and i can 19.95 saving 10 pound.s.:) and checked to see what extras i get for upgrading that will give me the full experience of Amiga.
The Plus Edition is all you need. When upgrading from the Value Edition you will get a very nice C64 + Amiga Forever Plus Edition bundle for GBP 17. The Premium Edition only adds some videos on DVD:

1.jpg
2.jpg
 
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Processor R9 5900X (VRM-B2) @ 180W/160A/140A | Mfg Wk03/2022 // i7-13620H 90W-50W | Mfg Wk25/2024
Motherboard Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro V2 // Dell 006JN2
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It really was, that's a good TIM, even by today's standards.

BITD, Zalman presumed that users would need to do more than one or two applications and they wanted to provide their users with enough to last a while. They were a great company.
It being from 2012 makes me distrust this sample. I have no doubt it was a fine paste when new, do they still sell this edition?

Zalman has fallen far, but they are not trash and their history is admirable.
 
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It being from 2012 makes me distrust this sample. I have no doubt it was a fine paste when new, do they still sell this edition?
As a rule, TIM's are made of non-organic, non-reactive materials. This means that as long as they're still spreadable, they'll work fine. But that is not common info and no one can blame you for not trusting it. It's all good.
 
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Ram Jam - Black Betty

I think that my serious case of the "loots" is kind of gettings worse! :D

Flea market day 2day! :D

1. Abit Fatal1ty FP-IN9 SLI 1 with mystery CPU - I scavenged the missing clips from two other motherboards. The board is not super high end but it looks awesome so I had to have it!!!
2. MSI Geforce 4 4200 Ti AGP 8x
3. AXP 2000+ Palomino
4. OCZ - DDR2 RAM - misc
5. Gainward nVIDIA 8800GTX 768MB PCI-E
6. Intel Pentium III 1GHz/133 - SL52R
7. Misc stuff
 

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Joined
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Messages
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Ram Jam - Black Betty

I think that my serious case of the "loots" is kind of gettings worse! :D

Flea market day 2day! :D

1. Abit Fatal1ty FP-IN9 SLI 1 with mystery CPU - I scavenged the missing clips from two other motherboards. The board is not super high end but it looks awesome so I had to have it!!!
2. MSI Geforce 4 4200 Ti AGP 8x
3. AXP 2000+ Palomino
4. OCZ - DDR2 RAM - misc
5. Gainward nVIDIA 8800GTX 768MB PCI-E
6. Intel Pentium III 1GHz/133 - SL52R
7. Misc stuff
I see a Pegatron card in there! Vas ist Das?!?
 
Joined
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Processor AMD Ryzen 5 3600
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Memory 32GB (4x8gb) Hynix 3466mhz CL17 (2x8 Team Dark Z DDR4-4000 CL18 + 2x8 Vcolor Prism DDR4-3466 CL17)
Video Card(s) EVGA GTX 1660 Super 6gb
Storage Sabrent Rocket Q 1tb NVME + 500gb Samsung HDD
Display(s) Triple monitor setup w/ Viewsonic 1080p 144hz main + 2 Dell Ultrasharps
Case DeepCool Matrexx 55 w/ 3x Arctic F14 PWM + 3X Arctic F12 PWM
Audio Device(s) Logitech X530 5.1 Spearkers + Beyer Dynamic DT770 PRO's driven by a Creative Labs Sound Blaster Z
Power Supply Corsair HX750i 80+ Platinum
Mouse Logitech G502
Keyboard Leopold FC750R Cherry MX Brown
Software Microsoft Windows 10 Professional x64
Making progress with the Latitude. First I replaced the CMOS battery and heat shrinked it back up. After setting the date+time (using externally keyboard since the internal one works just sometimes) it no longer errors on boot and holds bios settings.
20220326_101335~2.jpg

However it still wouldn't boot to anything and tried to go to the bios nearly every boot. It also randomly kept rapidly beeping like a stuck key, but would stop if I pressed any key on the build in keyboard. It still turns on every time the keyboard is connected and the power button does nothing.
20220326_105656.jpg

I think I know why. Likely the corrosion is shorting the keyboard matrix and causing it to behave oddly.

Thats when I tried to plug the keyboard in so it would turn on, and then immediately unplug it. And to my surprise, it worked perfectly when I did that.
20220326_105230.jpg

Bios functioned properly and it even booted perfectly to an XP DVD.

So it looks like the motherboard is fine, but the keyboard is completely messed up and was causing all of the issues before. New keyboard will be ordered soon. And probably some nicer ddr2.
 

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Joined
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Processor AMD Ryzen 5 3600
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Display(s) Triple monitor setup w/ Viewsonic 1080p 144hz main + 2 Dell Ultrasharps
Case DeepCool Matrexx 55 w/ 3x Arctic F14 PWM + 3X Arctic F12 PWM
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Power Supply Corsair HX750i 80+ Platinum
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Keyboard Leopold FC750R Cherry MX Brown
Software Microsoft Windows 10 Professional x64
Got Windows installed. Seems all to be working pretty well! Pretty happy to bave mostly fixed it, although I might be speaking too soon. Need to get a keyboard to know fully.

20220326_130406.jpg

Put some heat shrink on the charger since the insulation was otherwise cracking and broken around the strain relief. Charger works great and the battery works, although I don't know how long it will hold a charge for.
20220326_130843.jpg
 
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I'm selling locally some stuff that I do not need. :)
What card was it?
(Pegatron made great stuff BITD, I'm was a big fan)

Got Windows installed. Seems all to be working pretty well! Pretty happy to bave mostly fixed it, although I might be speaking too soon. Need to get a keyboard to know fully.
You should be able to use a USB keyboard till you replace the builtin unit.

Put some heat shrink on the charger since the insulation was otherwise cracking and broken around the strain relief.
I do this too! It's a great way to quick-fix a dodgy cable in a way that looks good.
 
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Processor AMD Ryzen 5 3600
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Video Card(s) EVGA GTX 1660 Super 6gb
Storage Sabrent Rocket Q 1tb NVME + 500gb Samsung HDD
Display(s) Triple monitor setup w/ Viewsonic 1080p 144hz main + 2 Dell Ultrasharps
Case DeepCool Matrexx 55 w/ 3x Arctic F14 PWM + 3X Arctic F12 PWM
Audio Device(s) Logitech X530 5.1 Spearkers + Beyer Dynamic DT770 PRO's driven by a Creative Labs Sound Blaster Z
Power Supply Corsair HX750i 80+ Platinum
Mouse Logitech G502
Keyboard Leopold FC750R Cherry MX Brown
Software Microsoft Windows 10 Professional x64
You should be able to use a USB keyboard till you replace the builtin unit.
Yes but no. The laptop won't turn on without the internal keyboard plugged in, probably since the power button is part of the keyboard. The power button doesn't actually do anything, but the laptop turns on immediately when I plug in the keyboard, so presumably the power button pins are bridged all the time in it's broken state.

So I have to plug it in to turn the laptop on, and then remove it so it actually functions. Then can just use a USB from there, which is how I got windows installed and working. I'll probably try to put some drivers on it later today.
 
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Yes but no. The laptop won't turn on without the internal keyboard plugged in, probably since the power button is part of the keyboard. The power button doesn't actually do anything, but the laptop turns on immediately when I plug in the keyboard, so presumably the power button pins are bridged all the time in it's broken state.

So I have to plug it in to turn the laptop on, and then remove it so it actually functions. Then can just use a USB from there, which is how I got windows installed and working. I'll probably try to put some drivers on it later today.
I can't look until Tuesday, but I might have a keyboard that will work. Might have a faster CPU too. I'll let you know once I get a chance to check.
 
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Processor AMD Ryzen 5 3600
Motherboard AsRock B550M Pro4
Cooling Arctic Freezer 34 Esports
Memory 32GB (4x8gb) Hynix 3466mhz CL17 (2x8 Team Dark Z DDR4-4000 CL18 + 2x8 Vcolor Prism DDR4-3466 CL17)
Video Card(s) EVGA GTX 1660 Super 6gb
Storage Sabrent Rocket Q 1tb NVME + 500gb Samsung HDD
Display(s) Triple monitor setup w/ Viewsonic 1080p 144hz main + 2 Dell Ultrasharps
Case DeepCool Matrexx 55 w/ 3x Arctic F14 PWM + 3X Arctic F12 PWM
Audio Device(s) Logitech X530 5.1 Spearkers + Beyer Dynamic DT770 PRO's driven by a Creative Labs Sound Blaster Z
Power Supply Corsair HX750i 80+ Platinum
Mouse Logitech G502
Keyboard Leopold FC750R Cherry MX Brown
Software Microsoft Windows 10 Professional x64
Battery holds an okay charge. Not great, but it is functional. Lasted about 50 minutes before it went under 10% and gave a warning.
 
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Got Windows installed. Seems all to be working pretty well! Pretty happy to bave mostly fixed it, although I might be speaking too soon. Need to get a keyboard to know fully.

View attachment 241436
Put some heat shrink on the charger since the insulation was otherwise cracking and broken around the strain relief. Charger works great and the battery works, although I don't know how long it will hold a charge for.View attachment 241437


Those old D620 were bullet proof. I still have a D600 laying around somewhere from 2004
 
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Processor 5800X3D -30 CO
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The Plus Edition is all you need. When upgrading from the Value Edition you will get a very nice C64 + Amiga Forever Plus Edition bundle for GBP 17. The Premium Edition only adds some videos on DVD:

View attachment 241317View attachment 241316
Thanks for that Bob ,but would the Ami kit be better? i understand from this video you all so need Amiga Forever to work with Ami Kit os is that right?
50 pounds is to much for me to buy the two together ,In the video he mentions. Amiga Forever essentials,i am confused do i need all three things?Or WinUAE
do i need anything else with this?
I am confused by all thiso_OIf someone can answer this i would be grateful thanks. :)
 
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Chips like being warm (Not hot) to get good bus speeds from them. ;)
This was a very useful push for my thoughts. I might have done the board wrong, it was most likely the CPU that behaves different from most of my other chips due to its very low VID. While the actual temperatures were fine when I tried high FSB (lowered vcore, set 6x multi), I used the wrong VTT voltage!
The leakage/quality does not only have an effect on temperature to Vcore but also the VTT part. I just set 1.2V VTT as my starting point, since most of my Wolfdales have their sweetspot right around this value. Now I tested this chip on a different board and guess what, I run into the same reference related stability issues around 530 MHz FSB. Only similar value was VTT. So since this is a higher quality chip I lowered VTT to 1.10V and it instantly passed 32m etc..

You learn something everyday. I never would have thought that a VTT of 1.2V for a Wolfdale might already be harmful.
 
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Motherboard Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro V2 // Dell 006JN2
Cooling Thermalright PA120 w/ 3x P12, MX-6 // Stock (4x heatpipes, 2x Elepeak radial fans) w/ MX-6 GPU & CPU
Memory 2x16GB Ballistix 8Gbit Rev.E @ 3800C15, 1:1 FCLK // 2x16GB Kingston Fury Impact H16A @ 4800C36
Video Card(s) PowerColor Red Devil 6600XT @ C2800MHz/M2300MHz (Samsung), 216W, MX-6 TP-3 // RTX 4060 Mobile (70W)
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Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W // Lite-On 130W
Mouse Logitech G203
Keyboard Kingston HyperX Core RGB
Software W10 Pro // W11 Pro
Benchmark Scores https://hwbot.org/user/machinelearning/ https://hwbot.org/team/warp9_systems/
This was a very useful push for my thoughts. I might have done the board wrong, it was most likely the CPU that behaves different from most of my other chips due to its very low VID. While the actual temperatures were fine when I tried high FSB (lowered vcore, set 6x multi), I used the wrong VTT voltage!
The leakage/quality does not only have an effect on temperature to Vcore but also the VTT part. I just set 1.2V VTT as my starting point, since most of my Wolfdales have their sweetspot right around this value. Now I tested this chip on a different board and guess what, I run into the same reference related stability issues around 530 MHz FSB. Only similar value was VTT. So since this is a higher quality chip I lowered VTT to 1.10V and it instantly passed 32m etc..

You learn something everyday. I never would have thought that a VTT of 1.2V for a Wolfdale might already be harmful.
I often push VTT a bit high when I OC Wolfdale/Yorkfield (I don't OC 65nm C2 nearly as often), usually ending between 1.3v-1.4v. I've honestly not tried much lower voltages, but in light of this infornation I'll certainly try that going forward.

Wonder if some of my borderline stable 775 OC's are prey to me setting VTT too high.
 
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Audio Device(s) Focusrite Scarlett 4i4 // HDMI to Samsung HW-R650 sound bar
Power Supply Seasonic SYNCRO 750 W // CORSAIR Vengeance 650M
Mouse Cooler Master MM710 53G
Keyboard Logitech 920-009300 G512 SE
Software Windows 10 Pro // Windows 10 Pro
Anyone got any idea what this Piece of junk is?o_O.
Looks like it's out of a IBM mainframe. 80s Landfills are filled with this stuff
 
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