Rate my liquid metal job...

[Morgoth]

That's the issue... those are not needed in the first place IMHO, that could be the reason the block doesn't even touch the die properly as it stumbles on the chokes.

not needed? umm hello there are also there on the aircooler....

 

[1100R]

i wonder if im doing it correctly... so you decide...
tempretures.. wel they are worse then i started with... thermal trotels immediately after firing up furmark...
tough idle is 31c...

Perhaps the problem is not in the water block but in the rest of the circuit. Have you checked that the liquid circulates well and the fans work correctly? What size is the radiator?

 

[Ferrum Master]

not needed? umm hello there are also there on the aircooler....

So what? Case closed, we found the killer.

Do as the manual says, no additional mods needed. Just add pads where they should be on the mosfets. The block even has engraved cavities there, have you wondered why? Yes because they are higher than the GPU die thus the block surface doesn't touch the die.

 

[Lei]

hell im not using the 3mm pad any more. first reason i was using it becus the orginale ones didt made an imprint....
wtf has my radiator to do with brackets and backframes and pressure?? WTF


i prety mutch rubed the entire surface with the alcohol wipes it came with......

I'm not sure why you're talking about radiator with me. We're not on the same page. Did I miss something.


Is the pump on? is water flowing? is there air in the block? may be pump is not strong enough to fill the coldplate. Did you connect the In and Out correctly? are you sure you're not sending the water in backwards?
I'm sorry, but with the job you've been doing so far, I won't be surprised to see the block is actually dry as a desert while your benchmarking.

also kinda starting to think to put back the air cooler on it...

going from LM to air, kinda proves you've never done watercooling. So I had to ask the above questions.
And those thick pads and lack of contact between die and heatsink, they resist in aircooling as well.

your biggest mistake is that gpu die is not in contact with block. and it's entirely your problem, not the block. you'll have the same problem with aircooling.

So wipe that off and put some normal paste and don't blame china water block, no other block will offer you something more yet it be Alphacool or EK.

Cooper is cooper, with fixed thermal conductivity across the known universe. In China, Europe and Alpha Centauri, it transfers heat likewise. it's in atoms not the brand.
I could rate him 1 out 5 for the efforts at least he tried. But now he's complaining about ingredients, I take that one star off.

 

[Morgoth]

i give it another try and use thermal paste instead...

*going from LM to air, kinda proves you've never done watercooling. So I had to ask the above questions.*
how does that prove i never did watercooling before????

 

[delshay]

Yeah... but from the pics I see he has pads both on the card and the block where the chokes sit. It is a mishmash supposedly.

View attachment 258780

You are correct. Maybe this is why the coldplate is not make contact with the die. Effectively the OP has stacked thermal pads. You either put thermal pads on the card or the coldplate in this area. Not both at the same time.

Welldone! Well spotted.

 

[Lei]

You are correct. Maybe this is why the coldplate is not make contact with the die. Effectively the OP has stacked thermal pads. You either put thermal pads on the card or the coldplate in this area. Not both at the same time.

Welldone! Well spotted.

They're not thermalpads, they're marshmallows!

 

[Morgoth]

they arent on the same component...

 

[Lei]

How does that prove i never did watercooling before????

Dude, you asked about screwing the bracket, whether the string tension....
Have you opened a gpu before?

And one more question: is the waterblock for this gpu model? Does the block model list this gpu as compatible.

they arent on the same component...

Just remove all the thermalpads and show us your idle temps.
If your die is in good contact, your gpu temp must idle at room temp (around 30 degrees)
If it's not in contact, it sits at around 70 even when you're not benchmarking.

You never showed us your idle temps.

 

[Morgoth]

Dude, you asked about screwing the bracket, whether the string tension....
Have you opened a gpu before?

And one more question: is the waterblock for this gpu model? Does the block model list this gpu as compatible.


Just remove all the thermalpads and show us your idle temps.
If your die is in good contact, your gpu temp must idle at room temp (around 30 degrees)
If it's not in contact, it sits at around 70 even when you're not benchmarking.

You never showed us your idle temps.

Yes i have first one was a 1950 pro..

reason i ask for it i dont want to over tention it and brick the compontents that are on it..
AND if i use the orginale screws i cant use the bracket at all then im forced to use other screws that didt came with it...
yes it is i asked the seller on the day i bought it i have had to show him the sticked on it

i did i said its 31c in idle at the begining of the thread
tough VRAM & GPU go up to 45c
mosfets around 60c
hotspot shoots up to 105c

 

[cvaldes]

OP did not stack thermal pads on the waterblock; they are properly placed.

This is a good quiz to see who lacks adequate visual analysis skills.

ORIGINAL:

ANNOTATED:

Yes, you can put pads on both the PCB's chips and the waterblock if you are careful.

I'm glad some of you aren't working in radiology...

 

[Lei]

Hotspot shoots up to 105c

That's it. Die is certainly not in contact.
Hotspot is in the gpu die. Below your liquid metal and far from the coldplate.

Bykski is a good brand. You can get one for your cpu
Cpu waterblocking is a lot less complicated. No thermalpads at all.


When I got my gpu, waterblocks were already on it. Fan and heatsink were in another box.
I leak tested the block without turning the pc on, for one hour.
Then I switched on and hotspot was 105c
Frustrated,
I opened the block and saw there's no thermal paste at all. It was clean and bald
Very close to gpu die, but no thermal paste at all.

I put some TF7 paste and tada. Rock and roll

Instead of paying for liquid metal, get a waterblock for your cpu and this brand is fine.

 

[Morgoth]

why should i get a waterblock for my cpu?

 

[cvaldes]

Instead of paying for liquid metal, get a waterblock for your cpu and this brand is fine.

I'm a beginner at custom cooling loops however I'm pretty sure a CPU waterblock isn't going to help with his GPU thermal issues.

 

[Lei]

OP did not stack thermal pads on the waterblock; they are properly placed.

This is a good quiz to see who lacks adequate visual analysis skills.

ORIGINAL:

View attachment 258792

ANNOTATED:

View attachment 258790

Yes, you can put pads on both the PCB's chips and the waterblock if you are careful.

I'm glad some of you aren't working in radiology...

Whatever, they're too thick.

why should i get a waterblock for my cpu?

Because it's air cooled now
Because a 210w gpu doesn't need liquid metal
Because watercooling and liquid metal...

I general no one does LM and water cooling, as it is plain stupid and useless. Thermal dyinamic is differs from air cooling when you need a fast transfer, with liquid it is not needed, you can use basically any compound and they all will perfrom within margin off error.

@cvaldes
I mean paying for LM is pointless. Better be invested on cpu block
Or perhaps good quality thermalpads, of course after thickness is firmly decided

 

[openbox1980]

I would never use LM on a desktop graphics card. I only use LM on laptops, I have been using LM for about 8 years now. With my 1st laptop Clevo p370sm3, that was a 17in desktop replacement monster of a laptop.

 

[cvaldes]

I mean paying for LM is pointless. Better be invested on cpu block
Or perhaps good quality thermalpads, of course after thickness is firmly decided

Thank you for your clarification.

Too late, the OP already paid for the liquid metal. It's not like he can return it at this point.

And they're not investments. They're expenses. I wish people didn't use the word investments this way because it leads some naive fools into believing that they really are.

If he had brought this topic up before he embarked on this adventure, your observation would have been useful.

Anyhow, it's up to OP to try a different thermal interface since the LM isn't working out for him. He should try a normal thermal paste instead, whatever he already has at this point rather than suggesting he go spend more money. I wouldn't be surprised if the GPU waterblock came with a little packet or vial of thermal compound.

 

[Morgoth]

Whatever, they're too thick.

Because it's air cooled now
Because a 210w gpu doesn't need liquid metal
Because watercooling and liquid metal...

@cvaldes
I mean paying for LM is pointless. Better be invested on cpu block
Or perhaps good quality thermalpads, of course after thickness is firmly decided

becus its aircooled ist a reason i should water cool it..
wats wrong with liquid metal and water cooling??

any way i ordered correct lenght screws. and this getho mod should do it as a termporary fix...

 

[Teams02]

Pumps probably not running quickly enough and you need to ramp the fans up on the rad. If its idling fine. Unless you already have.

 

[Morgoth]

pump runs 100%

 

[Ferrum Master]

OP did not stack thermal pads on the waterblock; they are properly placed.

He absolutely didn't, I provided a pic from the Byski Vega listing... He does them in places where it is not needed, a lot thicker than needed in places where it should be. We can put the case down as he doesn't follow mere instructions and thinks of his own, that obviously doesn't work.

 

[cvaldes]

He absolutely didn't, I provided a pic from the Byski Vega listing... He does them in places where it is not needed, a lot thicker than needed in places where it should be. We can put the case down as he doesn't follow mere instructions and thinks of his own, that obviously doesn't work.

I won't say if I think OP is just winging it or carefully following instructions; I'll just keep those opinions to myself for the time being. Right now I'll assume that he is following some sort of authoritative guidance.

As I mentioned earlier, I'm a beginner with this custom cooling loop stuff. My only experience with GPU waterblocks are those made by Alphacool. Being German, they included detailed instructions with lots of color photos and diagrams as well as the actual thermal pads to be applied and a syringe of their own branded thermal paste.

I have zero experience with whatever waterblock OP is using.

What he is doing, it's not working based on the immediate thermal throttling at load.

 

[Lei]

Being German, they included detailed instructions with lots of color photos and diagrams as well as the actual thermal pads to be applied and a syringe of their own branded thermal paste.

 

[delshay]

becus its aircooled ist a reason i should water cool it..
wats wrong with liquid metal and water cooling??

any way i ordered correct lenght screws. and this getho mod should do it as a termporary fix...

So it's the screws at fault, ok I hope that fixes it. ..What are you planning to do with the old backplate if you get water cooling up & running? Hint, hint I have a Vega Nano with no backplate.

 

[cvaldes]

LOL, a 34 minute waterblock video for a 5 year old graphics card that I don't own? Thoughtful but no thank you.

Pass.