Soldering Iron Kit for PC repair

[Greenslade]

Something similar to that model would be nice, if you can locate a 240 volt version.

I searched for it on Amazon UK & found the 70 watt version, but it won't work in the UK because it's a 120 volt model.

thanks for looking 68Olds :) The weller one seems highly rated, shame i can,t get it in the uk.

Is there any others on there you would recommend max price £40.

 

[Frick]

thanks for looking 68Olds :) The weller one seems highly rated, shame i can,t get it in the uk.

Is there any others on there you would recommend max price £40.

Again, have a look at used ones. Weller TCP, TCP-S, WTCP, any of those. I got one from the 80's for <€20 and it's great.

 

[Greenslade]

Will this work for you? (£42)

Hakko FX650-16 Dash Portable Soldering Iron 480ºC : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Only 11 reviews .i like to see more than that.

 

[Assimilator]

If you are not intending to put a lot of money into it then just go for any cheapo soldering iron. Steady hands and good technique is far more important than the iron or station.

 

[Greenslade]

If you are not intending to put a lot of money into it then just go for any cheapo soldering iron. Steady hands and good technique is far more important than the iron or station.

If I got one of those cheap kits I could get a better soldering at a later date I can use the stuff that the kits come with a better soldering iron. I have got a stead hand. I don,t intend doing much soldering any way. Some caps need replacing on two boards.

 

[Shrek]

Few soldering irons can handle the big ground planes of motherboards.

Desoldering Pump 230V : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

might work (it's the hollow tip that helps)

 

[Greenslade]

Few soldering irons can handle the big ground planes of mother boards.

I just watched a video on the weller soldering iron this guy did not rate it. Partly to do with the guarantee you haveto get a special stamp for the warrantee

He said its not worth the price. And got his cheap off eBay 10 bucks.

 

[Bill_Bright]

What "I think" Shrek is referring to by "big ground planes" is just the actual surface area of the point you may need to solder/desolder. Larger areas act as large heatsinks which can make getting enough heat in there to avoid soldering issues (like cold solder joints) a real challenge.

 

[Greenslade]

What "I think" Shrek is referring to by "big ground planes" is just the actual surface area of the point you may need to solder/desolder. Larger areas act as large heatsinks which can make getting enough heat in there to avoid soldering issues (like cold solder joints) a real challenge.

I get you as I said earlier, I have not done any soldering since I was back in school way back.

 

[Shrek]

What "I think" Shrek is referring to by "big ground planes" is just the actual surface area of the point you may need to solder/desolder. Larger areas act as large heatsinks which can make getting enough heat in there to avoid soldering issues (like cold solder joints) a real challenge.

I meant the big copper ground planes in motherboards that will soak up heat; the hollow tip on desoldering irons really helps as it can surround the capacitor leg.

i.e. I think the OP needs to desolder, as opposed to solder.

 

[Bones]

What "I think" Shrek is referring to by "big ground planes" is just the actual surface area of the point you may need to solder/desolder. Larger areas act as large heatsinks which can make getting enough heat in there to avoid soldering issues (like cold solder joints) a real challenge.

And that's due to some boards having a higher amount of copper to leech away the heat you intend for the soldering to be done.
I've found that an airwand pre-heating the area around the work does help and lets the pen do it's job better than it would on it's own.

A higher wattage pen would be needed for jobs with the work being at a spot on the board with a good amount of copper in that area.... Hence the usefulness of an airwand to help counter the leeching effect if your pen isn't that great in the first place.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I meant the big copper ground planes in motherboards that will soak up heat.

What he and I said.

And that's due to some boards having a higher amount of copper to leech away the heat you intend for the soldering to be done.

It does not need to be copper. If you look at most motherboards, you will not actually see a lot of copper. Sure, some copper will be obscured by coatings, but since copper corrodes (tarnishes easily and quickly) other conductive metals are often used instead. Doesn't matter. Lots of metals make good conductors of "heat", and that's the point here. Good heat conductors are great for extracting heat away from sensitive devices. But they often make soldering that much more of a challenge.

I have not done any soldering since I was back in school way back.

And that is why I said soldering is a skill. And so you need to practice, practice, practice. Find some old electronics device you can sacrifice to practice on. It will be worth it.

 

[Greenslade]

What he and I said.


It does not need to be copper. If you look at most motherboards, you will not actually see a lot of copper. Sure, some copper will be obscured by coatings, but since copper corrodes (tarnishes easily and quickly) other conductive metals are often used instead. Doesn't matter. Lots of metals make good conductors of "heat", and that's the point here. Good heat conductors are great for extracting heat away from sensitive devices. But they often make soldering that much more of a challenge.


And that is why I said soldering is a skill. And so you need to practice, practice, practice. Find some old electronics device you can sacrifice to practice on. It will be worth it.

Yes i understand i have an old board i can do that
Weller WLIRK6023G LED Halo Ring Soldering Iron Kit 60W 240V WELIRK6023G i could get this for £30 and get a cheap kit to go with it.It is very basic

 

[Shrek]

I would take a copper rod of the bit diameter, drill an indent in the end and make the end cone shaped; you then have something that stands a chance of desoldering motherboard capacitors using a soldering iron.

 

[LabRat 891]

I have a <$40 'import' kit off eBay. I think it's supposed to be a Hakko 936 clone/derivative.
(nearly identical to my unit from 4-5 years ago: ) https://www.ebay.com/itm/234096664500

It's been dropped off shoulder-height shelves onto concrete and ran over by a 400+lb power wheelchair+occupant.
Still works, even if part of the plastic casing is broken off and rattling around inside the power unit.


I also recently bought a "Weller" WLC100 40W-adjustable unit but, it's clearly a case of 'brand engineering'. You can find identical units under other brands.

I will note, the 'Weller' is more comfortable to hold.

 

[caroline!]

Ok so don't overcomplicate things, if all you need is to replace some electrolytic capacitors and not SMD stuff pretty much any iron and pump or wick can do the job.

Been using these since I was a kid and they "just work"

As you can see it's only a cord wired to a resistor that heats up the tip, that's all. Not sure if you'll be able to find those on first world countries as they're not particularly compliant of electrical regulations. Good thing is you can use a nail cut in half at an angle as a chisel tip if you have to.

I have others as well, a 250W one for large components like those inside TVs, UPS, power supplies, etc. and a 20W for smaller LEDs and coils, different tools for different jobs. I'd say 20 to 60W is fine for a motherboard.

And that's due to some boards having a higher amount of copper to leech away the heat you intend for the soldering to be done.
I've found that an airwand pre-heating the area around the work does help and lets the pen do it's job better than it would on it's own.

A higher wattage pen would be needed for jobs with the work being at a spot on the board with a good amount of copper in that area.... Hence the usefulness of an airwand to help counter the leeching effect if your pen isn't that great in the first place.

heh I tend to do that by leaving the board under "The" lamp for a while and when I come back it'll be so hot only a small poke of the iron will melt the tin. Of course I dim it down to work on anything because it's blinding bright and also burns my hands

 

[Shrek]

I like the heat lamp idea, but the perforated tip works for me.

 

[Bones]

Ok so don't overcomplicate things, if all you need is to replace some electrolytic capacitors and not SMD stuff pretty much any iron and pump or wick can do the job.

Been using these since I was a kid and they "just work"
View attachment 306017
As you can see it's only a cord wired to a resistor that heats up the tip, that's all. Not sure if you'll be able to find those on first world countries as they're not particularly compliant of electrical regulations. Good thing is you can use a nail cut in half at an angle as a chisel tip if you have to.

I have others as well, a 250W one for large components like those inside TVs, UPS, power supplies, etc. and a 20W for smaller LEDs and coils, different tools for different jobs. I'd say 20 to 60W is fine for a motherboard.

heh I tend to do that by leaving the board under "The" lamp for a while and when I come back it'll be so hot only a small poke of the iron will melt the tin. Of course I dim it down to work on anything because it's blinding bright and also burns my hands

I've got a heat (Infrared) lamp setup too, it's really handy at times for certain kinds of work.
It also has a built in soldering function too so you can plug in a pen and go with it.

What he and I said.


It does not need to be copper. If you look at most motherboards, you will not actually see a lot of copper. Sure, some copper will be obscured by coatings, but since copper corrodes (tarnishes easily and quickly) other conductive metals are often used instead. Doesn't matter. Lots of metals make good conductors of "heat", and that's the point here. Good heat conductors are great for extracting heat away from sensitive devices. But they often make soldering that much more of a challenge.

But of course it doesn't HAVE to be copper, can be aluminum or any other heat conducting material present.

It doesn't take "Alot" of copper for it to happen, only takes "Enough" to have this effect if it's going to do it and that's true regardless of what this material may be.

And that is why I said soldering is a skill. And so you need to practice, practice, practice. Find some old electronics device you can sacrifice to practice on. It will be worth it.

Practice makes perfect and with time you'll soon find when it comes to equipment the price tag doesn't tell the entire story - Cheap assed equipment can ruin a job on the spot or if learning how, ruin your own experience too if really wanting to pursue it as something of a hobby.
That kinda happened to me or I'd be better than I am now but at least I figured things out from that angle.

 

[Greenslade]

I've got a heat (Infrared) lamp setup too, it's really handy at times for certain kinds of work.
It also has a built in soldering function too so you can plug in a pen and go with it.


But of course it doesn't HAVE to be copper, can be aluminum or any other heat conducting material present.

It doesn't take "Alot" of copper for it to happen, only takes "Enough" to have this effect if it's going to do it and that's true regardless of what this material may be.

Practice makes perfect and with time you'll soon find when it comes to equipment the price tag doesn't tell the entire story - Cheap assed equipment can ruin a job on the spot or if learning how, ruin your own experience too if really wanting to pursue it as something of a hobby.
That kinda happened to me or I'd be better than I am now but at least I figured things out from that angle.

Thanks once again for your info Bones :) Like i said earlier on here i don,t intend to take it up as a hobby.Just for the odd job like replacing caps etc.To learn any skill takes practice to get it perfect.

Ok so don't overcomplicate things, if all you need is to replace some electrolytic capacitors and not SMD stuff pretty much any iron and pump or wick can do the job.

Been using these since I was a kid and they "just work"
View attachment 306017
As you can see it's only a cord wired to a resistor that heats up the tip, that's all. Not sure if you'll be able to find those on first world countries as they're not particularly compliant of electrical regulations. Good thing is you can use a nail cut in half at an angle as a chisel tip if you have to.

I have others as well, a 250W one for large components like those inside TVs, UPS, power supplies, etc. and a 20W for smaller LEDs and coils, different tools for different jobs. I'd say 20 to 60W is fine for a motherboard.

heh I tend to do that by leaving the board under "The" lamp for a while and when I come back it'll be so hot only a small poke of the iron will melt the tin. Of course I dim it down to work on anything because it's blinding bright and also burns my hands

I would not get one of those old school soldering irons safety issues.So 60w is maximum i want for working on a motherboard along with a pump or wick for doing motherboard work. Thanks for yours caroline! and everyone else who has written on this post.I looked it up because i did not know what it ment.I now know.
Solder wick vs solder pump
A solder pump (solder sucker) and solder wick (solder braid) are the most recommended options when you need to remove solder from the metalized holes on printed circuit boards. It is always necessary to clean metalized holes when repairing an electronic device or when simply replacing a through-hole electronic component.
Quote from that post
*I prefer to use a solder wick. For me, it is easier and much more convenient to clean unwanted solder from the circuit board with a solder wick.*
Whats your preference Pump or Wick?

What he and I said.


It does not need to be copper. If you look at most motherboards, you will not actually see a lot of copper. Sure, some copper will be obscured by coatings, but since copper corrodes (tarnishes easily and quickly) other conductive metals are often used instead. Doesn't matter. Lots of metals make good conductors of "heat", and that's the point here. Good heat conductors are great for extracting heat away from sensitive devices. But they often make soldering that much more of a challenge.


And that is why I said soldering is a skill. And so you need to practice, practice, practice. Find some old electronics device you can sacrifice to practice on. It will be worth it.

Just saw this review on Amazon
*Haven't used it and probably never will but it looks good with the rest of my tools I'll never use so I've given it 4 stars*
I have never seen a review like that before .he is only buying it because itt looks good with with his other tools

 

[Shrek]

i don,t intend to take it up as a hobby.Just for the odd job like replacing caps etc.To learn any skill takes practice to get it perfect.

In my opinion you picked a very hard example to learn on (if they are motherboard capacitors)

So 60w is maximum i want for working on a motherboard

Not if it is temperature controlled, then high power is not an issue.


I have seperate flux and tend to add leaded solder to reduce the melting point of the unleaded stuff and make work easier.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Separate flux can be a bit more messy, but I like using it too. I like having the flux already on the wire or contacts before applying heat. When using rosin core solder (solder with flux in the middle), the solder must melt first.

It is important to note that flux has two primary purposes. (1) It facilitates the rapid and even flow of heat through the solder and conductors. And (2) it helps clean the contact surfaces. IMO, separate flux helps to get that cleaning process going quicker and more thoroughly.

That said, rosin core solder is much more convenient, not messy, and still works fine so I keep a spool of that in my tool bag for house calls.

 

[Greenslade]

Separate flux can be a bit more messy, but I like using it too. I like having the flux already on the wire or contacts before applying heat. When using rosin core solder (solder with flux in the middle), the solder must melt first.

It is important to note that flux has two primary purposes. (1) It facilitates the rapid and even flow of heat through the solder and conductors. And (2) it helps clean the contact surfaces. IMO, separate flux helps to get that cleaning process going quicker and more thoroughly.

That said, rosin core solder is much more convenient, not messy, and still works fine so I keep a spool of that in my tool bag for house calls.

Thanks once again for your knowledge on the subject.

 

[P4-630]

So, after 2 pages, did you buy one?...

 

[Shrek]

I'm going easy on the guy given my own tendency to go round and round trying to figure things out; and he did settle on the 240V Weller WLIRK6023G which I think was a good choice although the reviews are not at all great
Weller WLIRK6023G 60W Soldering Iron Kit, LED Halo Ring, with Ergonomic Molded Pencil Grip Handle : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

 

[Eskimonster]

I wonder if you dare buying one from AliXpress. ?