Also the point I was making is that 37 minutes is not the actual runtime but instead some wild unrealistic estimation
Well,
of course it is an estimation. A typical computer's power demands vary widely and go from under 100 watts at idle to a maximum draw of several 100 watts in just a few clock cycles, depending on what the user (and OS) is doing at that point in time. This is totally unlike a lightbulb, as an example, which has a very consistent power draw all the time. So the monitoring software can only guess by assuming you, the user, will keep doing what you have been doing. It will be "fairly" realistic "IF" you keep using your computer (placing the same demands on your computer) as you have for the last few minutes.
But it should be noted the purpose for having a good UPS with AVR is twofold. First and foremost, it is for the AVR feature. The automatic voltage regulation feature is constantly adjusting (regulating) the voltage supplied to your components, constantly compensating for minor deviations and anomalies; spikes and surges, dips (opposite of spikes) and sags (opposite of surges), and brownouts (long duration sags), all
without cutting over to battery power.
And this is a very good thing, and something even the best surge and spike protector can
NOT do.
Only with an "extreme" high or low voltage anomaly (short of a full outage) should the battery backup kick in - and those should be very rare.
The
second, and
much less important purpose for having a good UPS with AVR is to provide backup power during a full power outage long enough to allow the user to finish typing their sentence, then "gracefully" save their open files, exit their open apps, then properly shutdown Windows and their computer.
The purpose for having an UPS is NOT so the user can keep playing their games! If that is the goal, the proper solution is to get a backup generator, and then the secondary purpose for the UPS is to provide backup power long enough for the generator to fire up, stabilize output voltage, then cutover and assume power delivery requirements.
The manufacturer software is just a different way of presenting that information.
In theory that is correct. But the manufacturer software is designed to work specifically with their products - which may or may not be proprietary and may or may not comply with industry standards.
Third party software is designed to work with assumed standards, multiple manufacturers (brand name and generic) and who knows what standards. I would never assume or depend on a 3rd party to know how to monitor and report status on my hardware better than the manufacturer. I would verify it first.
I am not suggesting you dump the program you are using (though I would - but that's just my personal preference). I am just suggesting you double-check the readings with the manufacturer's programs to verify the readings you see with Windows NUT Client are the same. If the same, fine. Stick with NUT Client if you prefer that program. If different, then for sure, I would go with the manufacturers.
I would also trust (with fingers crossed) the LCD Status display on the UPS itself to be correct. I can only say that working with dozens of UPSs over the years, I have found those with display panels to be "fairly" accurate. I say fairly because most only display whole numbers. For example, my APC UPS on this computers currently says the input voltage is 120VAC. However, my digital multimeter says it is really 119.7VAC. Close enough.
the one value you picked on.
"Picked on?" LOL Not sure I would describe my actions that way. The line frequency is just the one value that immediately stood out to me as being incorrect when I saw you lived in the UK. And that fact simply led me to question, "
If that value is wrong, what else might be wrong?" Hence the suggestion to double-check with a different program.
It is like our security software. We have a primary security solution we depend on. But we have (at least everyone
should have) a secondary scanner just to verify we (the user and always weakest link in security) or our primary solution didn't let something slip by. If nothing else, it is for peace of mind.
I am sure 16 hours assumes a fully discharged battery. But I have never seen any new replacement battery arrive fully discharged - or even close to it. If it was, I would immediately suspect a defective battery.
Just the normal chemical reaction that begins automatically during assembly when they add the acid would start the process to create a charge ASSUMING no internal shorts or other manufacturing defects. I believe most reliable makers do minor testing before these leave their factories. That involves attaching charging connectors to the terminals and measuring the current draw. Too much could indicate a short. Not enough might indicate an open. Within expectations and the cell passes - but also takes on little charge in the process. I believe 6 - 7 hours is about the longest I have seen it take to reach 100%.
And note I do NOT believe they do this quality testing out of the kindness of their hearts, or concerns pleasing their customers. No! That would be asking too much!
It is because a faulty battery can leak acid or worse, overheat and start a fire. 100,000 batteries in a shipping container catching fire on a cargo ship would not make for a good day. So I suspect shysters... err... lawyers are calling the shots there. But that's still good for us consumers.
Speaking of leaking - that is why their lawyers called for rubber gloves. You don't want battery acid on your hands should the battery casing have a crack in it and acid leaked. That acid can cause minor acid burns if not soon neutralized and washed off. It will eat through your clothes, however. And for sure, you don't want to rub your eyes or jam your fingers up your nose if you have battery acid on them. So don't do that!
A solution of baking soda, vinegar or even lemon juice will neutralize the acid. Then wash thoroughly with soap and water.
Better yet, don't get any on you. If the battery has leaked, you should be able tell easily just by visually inspecting the battery for something wet on its surface.
I have no clue why they are suggesting rubber boots - that is just overkill. If you were working with dozens of big car or truck batteries in a HUGE facility UPS in a battery room, then sure. But a pair of tiny UPS SLA batteries? Nah! Just don't drop them on your toes, or a hard floor.
Looks like its already fixed.
At first, I did not think that was the same thing - if you are referring the change log for v2.0.7706 beta. But after following the link to bug fix #55 and reading the developer's comments, it does look like a fix for your issue. This still assumes your specific UPS provides that value where NUT expects to find it, but it looks hopeful.
Please keep us posted. I am really curious now!
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