3D Printer Club

[Fokker]

i dont think you need the supports in the front part of the first pic. did you try without supports, or just flip it ? if you use prusa slicer there are a few options that give you a nice way to support overhangs. View attachment 361762

the avoid crossing perimeters works great with reducing strings since it prevents the tip from zig zagging across the part, but it increases time by some margin.


i dont think you need the supports in the front part of the first pic. did you try without supports? if you use prusa slicer there are a few options that give you a nice way to support overhangs. View attachment 361762

there you go!

I love that my longish reply got nuked in whatever happened to the site overnight.

The supports were generated by Cura automatically and I didn't make any adjustments as I didn't have any preview for how much overall supports it was going to generate. The object was oriented in that direction because of the original model that it was generated from which had a large extension that sticks out from the dash and it made sense to orient the print that way so that the extension wasn't able to apply leverage against the layer lines and cause a separation. I'm fine with transitioning to a face down orientation as the part will be recessed in the dash and short of someone doing something ill-advised, won't have any stress that could cause layer separation. I'm also waiting for a factory original part to dimension and make adjustments, so this is more of a prototype/test. The whole model face needs adjustment.

I'm currently switching over to Orca slicer as it has even greater control and capability over Cura; its automatic tree generation seems to works better than Cura's from the test parts I've tried so far. I'm also running into a dimension shift in parts which mostly seems limited to interior diameters of round parts (haven't tested cubic with hollows), so I'm going to use the Califlower calibration print to measure and make adjustments. The Califlower isn't compatible with Cura, so that prompted the switch.

I'm also going to be working on flashing my printer to Klipper and setting up my Creality Sonic Pad to manage it so I can increase the print speed >3 times its current (I've been dragging my feet) since this will be a huge difference for these longer prints. It'll take some effort and fine tuning, but hopefully I'll have it ironed out in the next couple of days.

 

[de.das.dude]

I love that my longish reply got nuked in whatever happened to the site overnight.

The supports were generated by Cura automatically and I didn't make any adjustments as I didn't have any preview for how much overall supports it was going to generate. The object was oriented in that direction because of the original model that it was generated from which had a large extension that sticks out from the dash and it made sense to orient the print that way so that the extension wasn't able to apply leverage against the layer lines and cause a separation. I'm fine with transitioning to a face down orientation as the part will be recessed in the dash and short of someone doing something ill-advised, won't have any stress that could cause layer separation. I'm also waiting for a factory original part to dimension and make adjustments, so this is more of a prototype/test. The whole model face needs adjustment.

I'm currently switching over to Orca slicer as it has even greater control and capability over Cura; its automatic tree generation seems to works better than Cura's from the test parts I've tried so far. I'm also running into a dimension shift in parts which mostly seems limited to interior diameters of round parts (haven't tested cubic with hollows), so I'm going to use the Califlower calibration print to measure and make adjustments. The Califlower isn't compatible with Cura, so that prompted the switch.

I'm also going to be working on flashing my printer to Klipper and setting up my Creality Sonic Pad to manage it so I can increase the print speed >3 times its current (I've been dragging my feet) since this will be a huge difference for these longer prints. It'll take some effort and fine tuning, but hopefully I'll have it ironed out in the next couple of days.

I am really liking Prusa Slicer, it has everything i need and has good suggestions as well. I followed Maker's Muse's 3d 101 for setting it up and feel its a great way to start. After that i just fidget. Whats more good for me is that all the settings in prusa hyperlink to guides on their website explaining it in detail. Which i feel is super cool of them to do.

Cura seemed to be better that removing stringing but then i just figured out what settings they were using lol. and used them in prusa

 

[SN2716057]

Okay, so I have a few strands left on the current spool. I'm going to print something larger which most likely I'll need to change the spool mid-way through. Is that okay? Or should I put a new spool on it and leave the left-over spool for smaller stuff?

 

[de.das.dude]

Okay, so I have a few strands left on the current spool. I'm going to print something larger which most likely I'll need to change the spool mid-way through. Is that okay? Or should I put a new spool on it and leave the left-over spool for smaller stuff?

leave it for small parts or prototyping.

Prusa Slicer gives you a reading of how much length is needed. I have found it to be decently accurate.

 

[SN2716057]

@de.das.dude Yeah, makes more sense, thank you.
The Creality K1C also shows the length needed but not Cura as far as I can tell

 

[de.das.dude]

IN OTHER NEWS:

Remember how i found that my temp tower said 185C would be great for my prints even though the spool said 205C... Well, i just found their website

ELEGOO PLA Plus 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm Colored 1KG

PLA+ Filament 1.75mm Colored 1KG. Brand New PLA+ Filaments, Tough & High Impact Strength, Glossy Surface & Good Layer Adhesion, Less-tangle & Neatly Wound, Dimensional Accuracy & Consistency and No Clogging & No Bubbles.

www.elegoo.com

Its a high speed spool. 70mm/s. Which is double what the default settings were.

Currently printing at said speeds, lets see how well it goes. i tested temps on the fly and 205 seems to extrude just enough, any less and its under extruding

 

[Fokker]

@de.das.dude Yeah, makes more sense, thank you.
The Creality K1C also shows the length needed but not Cura as far as I can tell

Cura should tell you length/weight of materials after you slice the project (mine does).

 

[de.das.dude]

Cura should tell you length/weight of materials after you slice the project (mine does).

honestly I find Cura to be a bit clunky, the only good thing i like about it is the combing thing, and that it plays the layer animation

 

[Mindweaver]

How have I missed this club? lol I have an Ender 3 that I have upgrade a bunch.. lol I still have parts to add to it. I also just bought a K1C and love it.

 

[de.das.dude]

How have I missed this club? lol I have an Ender 3 that I have upgrade a bunch.. lol I still have parts to add to it. I also just bought a K1C and love it.

one of us one of us

printed at 70mm/s with the Elegoo PLA. I fucked up seam placement on the bottom drawers lmao.

 

[SN2716057]

Cura should tell you length/weight of materials after you slice the project (mine does).

I need new glasses, lol It's so tiny above the slice button.

I'm using both Cura and Creality_print atm. Just to see which one I like better.

Edit: Finally done printing the Stream Deck mount for Fanatec DD Wheel Base. Took 2 days..a lot of cursing, some cuts and blood, one almost failed print, and one restart cause the spool wasn't wind-up properly (next project). It fits both the Stream Deck Mk.1 as well as the Mk.2, although the former fits very tightly. I used unused psu screws on the front plate and I still need to buy two M6x30 to mount it on the base.

 

[de.das.dude]

I Published a thing!

Printed Hinge Ender 3 Dipslay Flap for Good Sleep by dedasdude

THE HINGE IS BUILT IN! JUST SNAP IT INTO PLACE EASILY!Features:No more light bleed from the sides.Hinge doesnt flop down (0.2mm layer height)No need of any tools! just print it and stick it to your display plate.CAUTION: Check clearance if using a custom knob.

www.thingiverse.com

 

[FoulOnWhite]

I Published a thing!

Printed Hinge Ender 3 Dipslay Flap for Good Sleep by dedasdude

THE HINGE IS BUILT IN! JUST SNAP IT INTO PLACE EASILY!Features:No more light bleed from the sides.Hinge doesnt flop down (0.2mm layer height)No need of any tools! just print it and stick it to your display plate.CAUTION: Check clearance if using a custom knob.

www.thingiverse.com

Spelt display as diplay

 

[Fokker]

Spelt dispay as diplay

Spelt what?

 

[SN2716057]

It's too early/late for some, lol.

I Published a thing!

Printed Hinge Ender 3 Dipslay Flap for Good Sleep by dedasdude

THE HINGE IS BUILT IN! JUST SNAP IT INTO PLACE EASILY!Features:No more light bleed from the sides.Hinge doesnt flop down (0.2mm layer height)No need of any tools! just print it and stick it to your display plate.CAUTION: Check clearance if using a custom knob.

www.thingiverse.com

Very cool, dude. Luckily the dispay diplay ..screen thingy of the K1C has an auto shut-off function.
Would be possible to change the display on your End(er)?
---
Made a spool holder (part 1 of 2) for the unwind-rewind project as cheap filament does have it's drawbacks.

 

[Fokker]

Finally back in business. My Sonic Pad decided to ish the bed after 2 OTA updates without issue. It was working fine and as I was troubleshooting an error message about one of my files for the printer being missing, it went what I assumed was idle (screen blanked, but I was in the web interface), and when I came back from research the web interface was asking me to restart Klipper and I couldn't get a response out of the unit. All it does now when I power it on is flash the power light momentarily and then nothing, so I've got a support request in with Creality.

In the meantime, I spooled up an RPi4 with MainSail, updated everything, and connected it with the printer and I have life.

The display not being blank means it's talking to the RPi:

 

[FoulOnWhite]

Spelt what?

Did you click the link?

 

[Fokker]

Did you click the link?

Yes, I did, but you spelt display as "dispay". I didn't find "dispay" anywhere on the main page, hence my poking fun (in good nature).

And we're in business. I need to see what I can do to tweak the print speeds as is (since I don't have the accelerometer of the Sonic Pad), but I'm still hoping to setup input shaping with the RPi+Klipper so I can make this as fast as it can possibly be.

I think my next printer is going to be a SV08 (very affordable larger format Core-XY), but I also want to get a dual extruder option so I can try engineering with some multi-material prints.

 

[Fokker]

I'm going to have to run a calibration gamut on ABS. The prints aren't failing horribly, but I'm getting some serious shrinkage issues that are warping the hell out of prints. More experimentation and research, but I'm loving this setup over the stock Marlin/Cura experience. Especially since SD cards are a thing of the past. I can manage everything through Orca, even the printer.

The one on the left is what it should look like (ignore the banding/wobble which seems to only happen with this particular PLA).

 

[SN2716057]

I'm going to have to run a calibration gamut on ABS. The prints aren't failing horribly, but I'm getting some serious shrinkage issues that are warping the hell out of prints. More experimentation and research, but I'm loving this setup over the stock Marlin/Cura experience. Especially since SD cards are a thing of the past. I can manage everything through Orca, even the printer.

The one on the left is what it should look like (ignore the banding/wobble which seems to only happen with this particular PLA).

View attachment 362376

I've seen people making enclosures for their printer when using ABS. That stuff really shrinks a lot.

 

[de.das.dude]

make sure to tape off the hotend so that no air goes and hits the part. ABS is supposed to be printed without airflow apparently.

I'm going to have to run a calibration gamut on ABS. The prints aren't failing horribly, but I'm getting some serious shrinkage issues that are warping the hell out of prints. More experimentation and research, but I'm loving this setup over the stock Marlin/Cura experience. Especially since SD cards are a thing of the past. I can manage everything through Orca, even the printer.

The one on the left is what it should look like (ignore the banding/wobble which seems to only happen with this particular PLA).

 

[SN2716057]

The spool holder is done. Next up the spool rewind holder.

 

[Fokker]

I've seen people making enclosures for their printer when using ABS. That stuff really shrinks a lot.

I have it in an enclosure with 0% fan speed. The warpage seems to be happening post printing (doesn't look distorted during print), so my guess is that when the bed heater is cut at the end, it suddenly cools too rapidly. I'll see what the calibration/research reveals today. I definitely need to add a camera and lighting.

 

[de.das.dude]

finished designing and printing the display cover for the ender 3

Printed Hinge Ender 3 Dipslay Flap for Good Sleep by dedasdude

THE HINGE IS BUILT IN! JUST SNAP IT INTO PLACE EASILY!Features:No more light bleed from the sides.Hinge doesnt flop down (0.2mm layer height)No need of any tools! just print it and stick it to your display plate.CAUTION: Check clearance if using a custom knob.

www.thingiverse.com

 

[Count von Schwalbe]

Current setup:


Monoprice maker select V2. Prusa 3 knockoff I think.

Currently printing a chess set. I have plans that may be slightly grandiose...