TPU's Nostalgic Hardware Club

[MaxiPro800]

I have an 3DFX Diamond Monster 3D 4MB card
What system is most suitable for this card? Pentium 1, or 2?

Early P2 would be my vote - namely, 233 up to 300MHz models. Can be a BX or even LX chipset board (since your CPU is gonna run @ 66MHz FSB). Can't go wrong in that regard.

 

[AUTOEXEC.BAT]

Early P2 would be my vote - namely, 233 up to 300MHz models. Can be a BX or even LX chipset board (since your CPU is gonna run @ 66MHz FSB). Can't go wrong in that regard.

Hmm, i have a P2-400, or else it would be the P1-200MMX, but this one is overclocked to 250MHz

 

[pavle]

I have an 3DFX Diamond Monster 3D 4MB card
What system is most suitable for this card? Pentium 1, or 2?

Cyrix 200+ non-MX (as was in my second PC)!
NFS2SE split-screen anyone?

 

[AUTOEXEC.BAT]

New video from Miketech:

 

[lexluthermiester]

I have an 3DFX Diamond Monster 3D 4MB card
What system is most suitable for this card? Pentium 1, or 2?

If that were a VooDoo2, I'd say Pentium2. It's a VooDoo1 so it would feel most at home in a Pentium1 233mmx. You could put it into a Pnetium2/3 based system, but that card would be a bottleneck, which isn't a terrible thing, but there are much better AGP cards for such hardware.

Early P2 would be my vote - namely, 233 up to 300MHz models. Can be a BX or even LX chipset board (since your CPU is gonna run @ 66MHz FSB). Can't go wrong in that regard.

I wouldn't disagree with that.

or else it would be the P1-200MMX, but this one is overclocked to 250MHz

This. Go with that. That VooDoo1 will be most fitting for that setup!

 

[AUTOEXEC.BAT]

NFS2SE split-screen anyone?

This one?

 

[Apocalypsee]

It doesn't look like much without its black shroud, but this is my Xonar HDAV1.3. Despite this card is marketed for HDMI usage, its analog out is rather good. Like any other my soundcard I modded this one too, following the datasheet, I found most mainstream cards don't follow this, I have no idea why. Entry level professional cards usually follow them and it sounded better than mainstream ones.

I replaced a few caps (4 red ones) surrounding buffer opamp and swap I/V opamp. Two LT1498 on I/V stage replacing JRC4558 and very famous LM4562 on buffer. Tbh I don't like how National LM/LME sound, like it's too....digital sounding (if that made sense) Linear LT opamp sounds much more organic, even if it's not as detailed. But putting these two together sounds rather nice, they got nice synergy with my system. I prefer the sound of this card over Titanium HD, despite it uses lower spec PCM1796 DAC, but it didn't have EAX higher than 2.0, main reason I didn't use it much (I still play EAX4 games like Doom3 and Quake4). Also bypass the caps at the end there as there is no need for it, as I measured zero DC offset, there isn't any in datasheet either. I might put this on one of my retro build. There is official XP driver for it too.

Speaking about soundcard, X-Fi Titanium HD is now in retro web. I feel old now....

Creative SoundBlaster X-FI Titanium HD (SB1270)

Get info, images and drivers for the Creative SoundBlaster X-FI Titanium HD (SB1270) expansion card

theretroweb.com

 

[lexluthermiester]

Speaking about soundcard, X-Fi Titanium HD is now in retro web. I feel old now....

Welcome to being middle aged!

 

[Courier 6]

interesting

 

[jak_2456]

interesting

I guess they couldn't go with the console strategy of hoping to make back money with software sales.

 

[ShrimpBrime]

QUICK, Get the PLL number and open SetFSB see if She'll overclock!! Put a fan on it! Probably get +166mhz from it no problem!

 

[Greenslade]

yesterdays pickup:

CPU: Intel 486DX-33MHz
Mainboard: (QDI) V4P895P3/SMT V4.0
RAM: 4x1MB 30pin SIMM
Videocard: Diamond Speedstar Pro VLB
HDD: Western Digital Caviar 21000
OS: Microsoft Windows 3.11


View attachment 366072

That looks very clean,it looks like new apart from the yellowing

 

[AUTOEXEC.BAT]

That looks very clean,it looks like new apart from the yellowing

It has a dent and some scratches.
The yellowing will be gone next year. I started retrobriti g some parts already, but next year i want to spent more time whitening parts.

And im also thinking about powder coating sheet metal parts to the original color. And get dents removed before

 

[jak_2456]

It has a dent and some scratches.
The yellowing will be gone next year. I started retrobriti g some parts already, but next year i want to spent more time whitening parts.

And im also thinking about powder coating sheet metal parts to the original color. And get dents removed before

Just do yourself a favor and use plenty of peroxide. I didn't with my Vaio project and it didn't work much at all.

 

[Greenslade]

That looks very clean,it looks like new apart from the yellowing

How do i find what file these discs are?There is just what is on the disc ? What file is this his saying this is a cracked copy. so that is ADF file?

The ones i have bought off eBay are official discs are they ADF?The ones i have bought of eBay look good.

 

[MaxiPro800]

Another CRT save, and two Banshees to look for.

CRT is a nice AOC 7K+, model F1795 I think (not sure about exact model but I know it's a 7K+). Cards are a Magic Twinpower that needs a bit of vinegar treatment for a few pins on the U8 ramchip, and the other is a 3D Blaster Banshee that works absolutely fine, although I need a way to stick a heatsink there without it falling off.

 

[AUTOEXEC.BAT]

Just do yourself a favor and use plenty of peroxide. I didn't with my Vaio project and it didn't work much at all.

I used 12% in my last project..

I read someone here mixed 3%, 50/50 with water....why? Then 3% is maybe 1% or less

It only takes a lot more time when you mix it with water.

 

[jak_2456]

I used 12% in my last project..

I read someone here mixed 3%, 50/50 with water....why? Then 3% is maybe 1% or less

It only takes a lot more time when you mix it with water.

I used 40 volume clear developer (12%), but I didn't add enough to the water and it didn't do much. I also didn't have much sunlight.

 

[AUTOEXEC.BAT]

I used 40 volume clear developer (12%), but I didn't add enough to the water and it didn't do much. I also didn't have much sunlight.

Why add water?

i bought this, and added no water at all

waterstofperoxide 12% - hydrogen peroxide - 5 liter | bol

waterstofperoxide 12% - hydrogen peroxide - 5 liter. Waterstofperoxide 12%Hydrogen peroxide 12% Waterstofperoxide heeft veel toepassingen bijvoorbeeld:...

www.bol.com

 

[jak_2456]

Why add water?

i bought this, and added no water at all

waterstofperoxide 12% - hydrogen peroxide - 5 liter | bol

waterstofperoxide 12% - hydrogen peroxide - 5 liter. Waterstofperoxide 12%Hydrogen peroxide 12% Waterstofperoxide heeft veel toepassingen bijvoorbeeld:...

www.bol.com

I have seen most people online dilute the developer with water and have had success. I just didn't make the water concentrated enough with the developer.

 

[AUTOEXEC.BAT]

I have seen most people online dilute the developer with water and have had success

With 3%?

With 12% i would understand. it's €2 more then 3%. If you add water then, you have more liters...
But 3% is already slow for brightening.

Under, 2 days of retrobriting, with a little bit of sun, most cloudy. 12% peroxide:
In March 2024, Holland

 

[jak_2456]

With 3%?

With 12% i would understand. it's €2 more then 3%. If you add water then, you have more liters...
But 3% is already slow for brightening.

No, with 12%.

 

[AUTOEXEC.BAT]

Maybe another handy tip. Use a glass jar that is slightly larger than the parts you put in it. For this front I used an apple sauce jar. And I filled it completely. with the part in it and closed it with a piece of transparent foil. Then you don't have to fill a large container and you save hydrogen peroxide

 

[lexluthermiester]

With 3%?

With 12% i would understand. it's €2 more then 3%. If you add water then, you have more liters...
But 3% is already slow for brightening.

Under, 2 days of retrobriting, with a little bit of sun, most cloudy. 12% peroxide:
In March 2024, Holland

View attachment 366695

View attachment 366696

Heat plays an important role in the process as well. UV + 50C or 55C heat will make from a very smooth and effective retrobrite treatment. 12% H2O2 is also very helpful, lower % will take longer and won't be as permanent.

 

[Greenslade]

wrong forum