• Welcome to TechPowerUp Forums, Guest! Please check out our forum guidelines for info related to our community.
  • The forums have been upgraded with support for dark mode. By default it will follow the setting on your system/browser. You may override it by scrolling to the end of the page and clicking the gears icon.

3D Printer Club

SN2716057 said:
Very cool hot!
Is that radiator foil or something special?
Click to expand...
The enclosure is lined with some sort of foil. The walls are pretty stiff. The radiator itself is a plastic and metal housing.
 
Printed the Cubestand at 150% so that even the big brushes will fit without any issues.
20241031_090036.jpg

+
I also downloaded and printed a car!
20241031_082729.jpg

Not sure if I should paint the body or windows, masking tape works but is a pita on tiny models.
 

Attachments

  • Schiit stack bracket painted graphite (was blue, printed in white).jpg
    Schiit stack bracket painted graphite (was blue, printed in white).jpg
    617.6 KB · Views: 48
SN2716057 said:
I also downloaded and printed a car!
View attachment 369575
Not sure if I should paint the body or windows, masking tape works but is a pita on tiny models.
Click to expand...

Liquid frisket/mask. Usually can be applied with a cheap brush and then removed after paint.
 
 
de.das.dude said:
Guys, do you think this is good: https://www.amazon.in/CERO-Glass-Adhesion-Printer-Finish/dp/B08HV1CMTH/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=lB3jL&content-id=amzn1.sym.7602422b-8057-46fd-9c2b-62792e54a2b3:amzn1.symc.9556efd4-e363-43c4-82ba-62279bb2c460&pf_rd_p=7602422b-8057-46fd-9c2b-62792e54a2b3&pf_rd_r=265WDKF8AN6PJDFFZRN0&pd_rd_wg=cvhtW&pd_rd_r=8277b645-916a-4c3b-9543-15ed1cc82fe1&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_ca_hp_atf_d

i noticed my base plate is bowing up.

also i made some watch stands for me watches. learnt how to use variable height for smoothing out curves. Knowledge ++ :rockout:

View attachment 370238
Click to expand...

The plate could work, assuming it's not crap quality. I have a textured glass plate on my Ender 3v2. The only problem with solid build plates is it can make it more difficult to remove the print since you have to pry/scrape it off. It's only a big problem with smaller prints since you can't get the leverage to remove it.
 
Fokker said:
The plate could work, assuming it's not crap quality. I have a textured glass plate on my Ender 3v2. The only problem with solid build plates is it can make it more difficult to remove the print since you have to pry/scrape it off. It's only a big problem with smaller prints since you can't get the leverage to remove it.
Click to expand...

it should be here on Thursday. People are saying its quite decent quality. Oh shit i need to buy some bigger clips for the glass to attach it with.
 
20241107_190629.jpg


its thursday and its here.

Reason why i got it is, i noticed the bed was dipping slightly in the middle and one of the corners. this means that poor adhesion when printing larger first layer having objects as it was impossible to get the bed level. I was looking into getting the CR touch (clone) but this one was a quicker and simpler solution so i tried this. Cost me less around 10USD, so was cheap as well.

It is frosted on one side and gloss on the other.
 
Slowed down with printing..for now.
20241109_193856.jpg
20241110_152922.jpg

Made several door hooks. [link]

20241109_193921.jpg

A (credit)card wallet [link]

20241109_194011.jpg
->
20241110_153035.jpg

And lastly a roll hooks for baking paper/aluminum foil/etc. [link] 4 more hooks to print. Edit: All done!
 

Attachments

  • 20241109_193816.jpg
    20241109_193816.jpg
    203.4 KB · Views: 39
Last edited:
Made an incense holder [link] and shelf. The incense holder is ridiculously light because of the thin walls but it works.
The shelf is my own design using Tinkercad, and smacked on the wall using double sided tape.
20241111_135946_resized.jpg

PS: I wanted the shelf in the middle but the tiles are crooked af so I placed it massively off-center, just to fuck with future me for not measuring first.
 
SN2716057 said:
Made an incense holder [link] and shelf. The incense holder is ridiculously light because of the thin walls but it works.
The shelf is my own design using Tinkercad, and smacked on the wall using double sided tape.
View attachment 371323
PS: I wanted the shelf in the middle but the tiles are crooked af so I placed it massively off-center, just to fuck with future me for not measuring first.
Click to expand...
is it to keep the poopy smells at bay?
 
Yesterday i tried the newm printer and my new washing -%/ curing-machine. In detail that are a Anycubic Photon M3 Max with a Anycubic Wash & Cure Max.

The M3 Max is, in my eyes, not that bad. It's built massive. It prints not that dast. A print with a height of 260mm takes round about 24hrs. The original Slicer was quite irritating. He told me that the print will take 128hrs. When i used the Mango3D Lycheeslicer this one said something about 17hrs. when i started this print the Printer told me that it lasts 24hrs. It has been taking the printers time.

After the print was finished i took it off the print plate and straight into the cleaning maschine. I added the liquids as said by the manual. IPA with 99.9% (it should be at least 75%) and normal water. No aqua Dest. etc. Just water. Where i live the water is quite soft. I did print incl. Support. There was a support plate generated. I used the printers maximum size in X and Y. The print did just fit into the cleaners basket. The washing/curing time was estimated by 15:30 minutes. I started the machine. This machine uses a new way of cleaning/washing the models. Usually there is a big VAT wich holds the detergent. One places the model inside the vat and the liquid is turned around. At the anycubic machine they spray the detergent nto the model. Anycubic says they need a lot less detergent.After that cleaning process they pump back the detergent to the cleayner bucket and pump in the water to clean the machine and the model. Therefor they se around 5-10 litres. That amount of water is flowing into a third basket disposed straight after each clean. One cannot put this rest water to the normal waste water system as it is contaminated by resin and the detergent.People who have to clean more models will face a storage problem.

After the water was spilled out the machine was done. So i was quite curious about the results. They havent been that great. I removed the support by hand an looked at the model. You can see the result at the first picture:
IMG_20241112_064739664.jpg
There are still support structures but there are no white spots. On the other side there were white areas:
IMG_20241112_064719660.jpg
Not that great result when you don't want to paint the full model. My conclusion to this test is that i will sell this machine and get two classic ones instead.
 
20241112_181002.jpg


Made a wee little support. Like the new glass bed. Once leveled, adhesion is pretty nice.
 
Printed an accessories holder [link], a glue stick holder for direct use [link], and the backup [link].
20241115_101231.jpg
20241115_102902.jpg

Direct use (left) and backup

Edit: Printed another incense bowl
Bowl_2.jpg
 

Attachments

  • Bowl_1.png
    Bowl_1.png
    156.2 KB · Views: 50
Last edited:
Screenshot 2024-11-17 171839.png


custom designing a cable bracket for under my desk. My desk has this metal box section frame underneath, so i need a way to get some wires tucked in, along with the frame.

Printing failed the first time because i guess the weather has changed here and its a bit cooler than before. My print came off half way, and it has shite inter layer adhesion. oh well.... :rolleyes:
 
Made a lid for the top cover and fitted with double-sided tape.
lid.png

And for my reality it's crooked..as usual. :shadedshu:
 
de.das.dude said:
View attachment 372085

custom designing a cable bracket for under my desk. My desk has this metal box section frame underneath, so i need a way to get some wires tucked in, along with the frame.

Printing failed the first time because i guess the weather has changed here and its a bit cooler than before. My print came off half way, and it has shite inter layer adhesion. oh well.... :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

These worked perfectly the 2nd time around :D I printed them without the speed holes and it took lesser time because acceleration i guess.

i keep forgetting that i need to preheat the glass bed for atleast 10min before i print, else it comes off hehe.

wall decoration thingy.

Nissan Skyline
20241119_223035.jpg
 
de.das.dude said:
These worked perfectly the 2nd time around :D I printed them without the speed holes and it took lesser time because acceleration i guess.

i keep forgetting that i need to preheat the glass bed for atleast 10min before i print, else it comes off hehe.

wall decoration thingy.

Nissan Skyline
View attachment 372424
Click to expand...
You don't use a glue stick?
 
PLAfiller said:
I never have personally. But I am starting to think about it.
Click to expand...
I dab a bit on the plate with bigger projects, big surface objects and such. And it's easy to clean the surface too.
 
I currently use Visionminer Nano for materials where I'm worried about adhesion.
visionminer.com

Nano Polymer Adhesive

For PEEK, PEI, and other high-temp materials Stronger than glue stick No mess like glue stick Works on multiple surfaces (glass, carbon, resins, etc) Easy to clean and re-apply Works with most lower-temp materials Made from safe, non-toxic, organic compounds.
visionminer.com visionminer.com

Magigoo also comes highly recommended.
 
20241120_191317.jpg


added a porsche 911
 
20241121_135845.jpg
20241121_140259.jpg

A Voronoi vase for my mum, a silk blue wallet for me, and a wall hook for a painting (to be mounted with double sided tape).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top