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3D Printer Club

Mindweaver

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mine goes 70mm/s stock with the cooler mod. I have this new filament (see above) and its supposed to go 100m/s.

Do you need to tune the acceleration? because stock prusa slicer, it doesnt really hit these speeds. Oh yea i need to compensate the higher speed with a 5c bump in temps. else the extruder grinds :D
I wanted to add that once you flash the Nebula pad and have fluidd on your printer then its just a matter of opening a web browser and going to "https://you.rip:4408" then on the left side you will see configuration. Select that and you will see a list of Configuration files that will have the printer.cfg file. You can click on it and make changes in the built in editor. I only have my K1C on right now. I'll turn on my ender 3 later and post the printer.cfg file settings.

Fluidd.png
 
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I added some 0.1mm washers and used a torque wrench to tighten the middle down more. It's better than it was (down to 0.2mm variance from >0.3mm), so I'm running a print to see how it turns out. I think the silicone spacers will get me better results from everything I've seen (replacing the aluminum), but I may bump up the torque value and further tighten the center while I wait for those to arrive.

1727415522786.png
 

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20240927_182543.jpg


Printing the GE Turbo Jet . Also, printed that little drawer storage thingy from two filaments :D
 

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So, I can purchase a CAD drawing of a cooling system for an RV A/C that improves the A/C air flow a huge amount.

If I purchased the drawing, could one of you members print them out and ship to me?

Of course I would pay you for your time, material, and shipping.

Not sure what the file is exactly, but if someone can 3D print this item, I'd be more than happy to find out the exact details.

The unit is about 8 to 10 inches long, so it would probably need a fairly large 3D printer to print the item.
 

Count von Schwalbe

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I can do up to 7 inches - maybe I could make it in a couple of parts?
 
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So, I can purchase a CAD drawing of a cooling system for an RV A/C that improves the A/C air flow a huge amount.

If I purchased the drawing, could one of you members print them out and ship to me?

Of course I would pay you for your time, material, and shipping.

Not sure what the file is exactly, but if someone can 3D print this item, I'd be more than happy to find out the exact details.

The unit is about 8 to 10 inches long, so it would probably need a fairly large 3D printer to print the item.

You'll need to post the overall volumetric size of the individual parts and a rough diagram of it and it's function so people can judge if they even have the print volume to produce the parts as a whole and if they want to take on the project. To give you an idea, most printers that aren't large format or more costly are going to have a build volume of around 200mm x 200mm x 255mm (7.87" x 7.87" x 10").

Depending on the overall dimensions, 10 inches isn't too big for most printers if you can print that longest dimension in the Z axis. Whether or not that is an option will depend on the kinds of stress the part may be under, since you might want to orient the part in a specific direction so that it can be strongest against whatever those forces are. What material will be best will also depend on the environment (regular exposure to moisture, how much heat, etc.). There's a good chance it'll need to be engineered to be made in pieces and then you have to determine how best to assemble the pieces to make the entire assembly (threadserts, snap together, etc.).

Edit: (I hate the forum feature that stuffs a second post into your previous if you were the last poster.)

Even after the bed changes, the shrink forces are still causing lifting of the first layer. I've been playing with modifiers in Orca to combat it and I'm getting improvements, but it's still a problem on this end. I'm going to try 75% infill in these corners and add a brim there.
20240927_153732.jpg
 
Last edited:
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Quick question: My 3D Printer (a Creality Ender 3 Pro) does not appear to be printing. I believe the nozzle is clogged because I can get filament to extrude if I force the filament through. What's a good place to buy nozzle-cleaning needles for a low price?
 
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Quick question: My 3D Printer (a Creality Ender 3 Pro) does not appear to be printing. I believe the nozzle is clogged because I can get filament to extrude if I force the filament through. What's a good place to buy nozzle-cleaning needles for a low price?

If you were printing successfully before with the same slicer settings, I would assume part of the nozzle deteriorated and it's blocking it the passage, hence why you require additional force to extrude.

You'll want to confirm the issue is the nozzle itself, but a needle slightly smaller than diameter of your nozzle should be sufficient to clear the clog. There may be some debris that can't be melted that may be blocking it, so you'll probably want to remove it completely to clean it. A simple test would be just swapping out the nozzle with another and running a print since basic brass nozzles are pretty cheap.

 
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If you were printing successfully before with the same slicer settings, I would assume part of the nozzle deteriorated and it's blocking it the passage, hence why you require additional force to extrude.

You'll want to confirm the issue is the nozzle itself, but a needle slightly smaller than diameter of your nozzle should be sufficient to clear the clog. There may be some debris that can't be melted that may be blocking it, so you'll probably want to remove it completely to clean it. A simple test would be just swapping out the nozzle with another and running a print since basic brass nozzles are pretty cheap.

Never mind. Swapping the nozzle to a spare one seemed to fix the problem until I tried to print something. It would print about the first or second layer, then the filament would stop extruding. Is it possible that the hot end needs to be replaced?
 
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This is how bad that uneven plate is affecting things. Even after adding large amounts of extra infill, I was still getting lifting at 3 of the 4 corners. I move the model to the upper left of the build plate with just some mouse ears brim and I get essentially flat prints.


Prints.jpg
 
Last edited:

stinger608

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I can do up to 7 inches - maybe I could make it in a couple of parts?

You'll need to post the overall volumetric size of the individual parts and a rough diagram of it and it's function so people can judge if they even have the print volume to produce the parts as a whole and if they want to take on the project. To give you an idea, most printers that aren't large format or more costly are going to have a build volume of around 200mm x 200mm x 255mm (7.87" x 7.87" x 10").

Depending on the overall dimensions, 10 inches isn't too big for most printers if you can print that longest dimension in the Z axis. Whether or not that is an option will depend on the kinds of stress the part may be under, since you might want to orient the part in a specific direction so that it can be strongest against whatever those forces are. What material will be best will also depend on the environment (regular exposure to moisture, how much heat, etc.). There's a good chance it'll need to be engineered to be made in pieces and then you have to determine how best to assemble the pieces to make the entire assembly (threadserts, snap together, etc.).

Edit: (I hate the forum feature that stuffs a second post into your previous if you were the last poster.)

Even after the bed changes, the shrink forces are still causing lifting of the first layer. I've been playing with modifiers in Orca to combat it and I'm getting improvements, but it's still a problem on this end. I'm going to try 75% infill in these corners and add a brim there.
View attachment 365073


It's very similar to this:


However, the fella that had a 3D file and parts was on Etsy and doesn't seem to be on there any longer.

I'm going to have to do some research and find the original post on one of the RV forums. Not sure what happened to the sale site on Etsy.

Not sure if it would be any cheaper to have one made and shipped vs the KoolRv unit at $85,
 
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It's very similar to this:


However, the fella that had a 3D file and parts was on Etsy and doesn't seem to be on there any longer.

I'm going to have to do some research and find the original post on one of the RV forums. Not sure what happened to the sale site on Etsy.

Not sure if it would be any cheaper to have one made and shipped vs the KoolRv unit at $85,
The user Thulfs on ForestRiverForums claims it's his design. There was a link to the STLs on Printables, but it's no longer available. His post indicates "legal matter" and my guess is KoolRV is going after him. His last post indicates he expects to have it back up soon (was at the end of August). I'll poke around and see if I can find a copy if anyone wants to try printing it off.


Edit:
I don't know if this fits the same model, but I found a remix that someone separated out into two pieces that supposedly don't need supports to print. I'm not sure if it fits the same model of AC "fits 2017 Grand Design Imagine 2800BH".

 
Last edited:

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So, I can purchase a CAD drawing of a cooling system for an RV A/C that improves the A/C air flow a huge amount.

If I purchased the drawing, could one of you members print them out and ship to me?

Of course I would pay you for your time, material, and shipping.

Not sure what the file is exactly, but if someone can 3D print this item, I'd be more than happy to find out the exact details.

The unit is about 8 to 10 inches long, so it would probably need a fairly large 3D printer to print the item.

What is it, specifically?
 

stinger608

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The user Thulfs on ForestRiverForums claims it's his design. There was a link to the STLs on Printables, but it's no longer available. His post indicates "legal matter" and my guess is KoolRV is going after him. His last post indicates he expects to have it back up soon (was at the end of August). I'll poke around and see if I can find a copy if anyone wants to try printing it off.


Edit:
I don't know if this fits the same model, but I found a remix that someone separated out into two pieces that supposedly don't need supports to print. I'm not sure if it fits the same model of AC "fits 2017 Grand Design Imagine 2800BH".


You are frigging awesome man!!!! You found that post. I didn't realize I had found it on the Forest River forums. I don't often post on that site as our RV is a Jayco.
Golly, I wouldn't have figured you'd go searching for it. LOL

What is it, specifically?

It's a plenum to allow for much better A/C air flow through the ceiling ducting.

Edit:
I don't know if this fits the same model, but I found a remix that someone separated out into two pieces that supposedly don't need supports to print. I'm not sure if it fits the same model of AC "fits 2017 Grand Design Imagine 2800BH".

I don't think that would work on the unit I've got in the RV.
 

Count von Schwalbe

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That should be easy to break up into separate parts. I can do that with an STL (usually) so the original would work.

For a simple part like that that doesn't need tight tolerances it would probably be easier to print it in multiple pieces anyways to not have to deal with supports.

You could measure the outlet of the AC and the ducts it needs to connect to, and the distances between them, and it wouldn't be hard to design one. Might take a little while though.
 

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Ha, just had someone on the Forest River forums reach out to me that has the files for the print.

Hopefully he emails them to me.

Again, thanks @Fokker for finding that forum link on Forest River bro. :respect: :respect: :respect: :respect: :respect:
 
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I finally finished printing and assembling this. This new cheapie soldering iron with insert tips works really well. I did it free hand because of the specific parts, but it should come in handy.

Holder1.jpg
Holder2.jpg
Insert Press.jpg
 

stinger608

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So, I got the file.

The fella that sent me the file stated that it should be printed with "ABS rather than PLA" due to PLA melting if it gets hot?

Hell, I don't even know what that means. :laugh:

Figure you guys would know what it means. :toast:
 
Last edited:

de.das.dude

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This is how bad that uneven plate is affecting things. Even after adding large amounts of extra infill, I was still getting lifting at 3 of the 4 corners. I move the model to the upper left of the build plate with just some mouse ears brim and I get essentially flat prints.


View attachment 365169

looks like a different problem. Check your build plate temps. I had this issue with large parts when the part was starting too cool too quickly and pulling up. I use a constant build plate temp now. Also, i use full fan on all layers except first on PLA now. Seemed to fix it.

So, I got the file.

The fella that sent me the file stated that it should be printed with "ABS rather than PLA" due to PLA melting if it gets hot?

Hell, I don't even know what that means. :laugh:

Figure you guys would know what it means. :toast:


PLA starts getting soft at 50C. Which depending on the part of the world, can be had as ambient temps lol. Here it gets to 45C in the summers sometimes lol.
 

Count von Schwalbe

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Different types of plastic. ABS has a higher temperature of softening. Incidentally, that black corrugated drainage piping is ABS plastic.

I am not sure how my printer would do with ABS, I have only run PLA. Probably a good idea to find out, there is some stuff I wanted to do but couldn't use PLA for.
 
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So, I got the file.

The fella that sent me the file stated that it should be printed with "ABS rather than PLA" due to PLA melting if it gets hot?

Hell, I don't even know what that means. :laugh:

Figure you guys would know what it means. :toast:


ABS plastic has a higher impact resistance, stronger resistance to UV, and higher melting temperature. It's better for outdoor use and hotter environments (vehicle interiors in summer). The center section for the KoolRV product is definitely 3D printed and looks like it is also ABS. It's a bit trickier to print with due to rapid shrinkage that can occur while it's cooing initially. I'm setting up a ghetto enclosure heater so I can start printing in materials like ABS, ASA, and polycarbonate, but I already have some projects for other parties lined up once I get my precision/bed leveling sorted out, so I won't be in an position to take on other projects any time in the next month.



An alternative to ABS would be PETG. It's easier to print with and a bit more flexible than ABS, but the parts could be coated in epoxy resin to stiffen/strengthen the parts. It doesn't have quite as high a resistance to temperatures as ABS, but if it's 80 C in your RV, you have bigger issues.


looks like a different problem. Check your build plate temps. I had this issue with large parts when the part was starting too cool too quickly and pulling up. I use a constant build plate temp now. Also, i use full fan on all layers except first on PLA now. Seemed to fix it.

I can try checking with a thermometer or separate probe, but the temps should be fine. The prints came out almost perfect on the left side of the bed, but I get curling when printing larger pieces with corners in the center and the curling is most pronounced on the right, which checks out with my high center bed mesh. I should have the bed insulation and silicone spacers on Tuesday, so I can swap over and get a mechanical level and then run a new bed mesh and adjust appropriately.

If I still have issues after that, then I'll check temps. The only reason the issue hasn't shown it's face before now was I was printing cylinders exclusively and that spreads the force out instead of focusing it from two directions to a point.
 

stinger608

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I'm really not in a huge hurry on this @Fokker , as it is pretty much going into winter. Just got done winterizing the trailer today.

I was just wanting to get a jump on this before next summer season.

I am, however, probably heading south for the winter months, as we purchased a 2.5 acre chunk of ground in Arizona, and may be wanting to run the A/C in late October or early May.

As it is now, it isn't bad. Just trying to get better air flow from the ducting, and these have shown to increase the air flow a lot.
 

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The prints came out almost perfect on the left side of the bed, but I get curling when printing larger pieces with corners in the center and the curling is most pronounced on the right, which checks out with my high center bed mesh. I should have the bed insulation and silicone spacers on Tuesday, so I can swap over and get a mechanical level and then run a new bed mesh and adjust appropriately.

If I still have issues after that, then I'll check temps. The only reason the issue hasn't shown it's face before now was I was printing cylinders exclusively and that spreads the force out instead of focusing it from two directions to a point.


This could be because of uneven bed heating for sure. I have seen this in mine. What i do is, i preheat the bed well in advance so it has soaked in all the heat goodness. This can also be caused by stresses in the PLA releasing as it cools down. Kind of like how metal also does the same in a mold!
 
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The prints came out almost perfect on the left side of the bed, but I get curling when printing larger pieces with corners in the center and the curling is most pronounced on the right, which checks out with my high center bed mesh. I should have the bed insulation and silicone spacers on Tuesday, so I can swap over and get a mechanical level and then run a new bed mesh and adjust appropriately.
I got that warping with PETG and haven't really solved the issue. Small items, no problem. Anything longer than 10cm and I always get warping on one end. PETG requires constant temp and where my printers are it is not. Summer the room gets to around 30C, but winter it drops to 23 or so I think, when I leave it to print overnight. I have them in an IKEA PLATSA furniture with no front door, so....yeah, not ideal conditions to say the least for PETG. I don't print ABS at all, because I don't have HEPA filter and ventilation and I don't want my kids to be inhaling fumes from the 3D printers.
 

Count von Schwalbe

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@stinger608 PM me the file and I will take a look at what it will take to print.
 
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