I'm looking for a good tool to make the 3D scanning of my mini-pc using the photogrammetry and my Kinect 2.

[S-TKUC]

Using that adapter is not a bad idea.
But I can't help the placement of the power bank... Or is this the placement you're considering?

This just barely manages to avoid any interference, but is it possible to assemble it?

Also, there is no way to access the power and reset buttons on the RockPro64.

There are through-holes on the board for soldering in power and reset switches, but...

 

[ziomario]

Some considerations on this image :

1) the USB ports of the Nitecore powerbank on your picture are placed on the wrong side. They should be placed on the opposite side :

This is the side that touches the support surface....

and

2) the reset and power button of the RockPro can be accessed easily making a little hole on top of them (on the back). They are small buttons. The thumb presses them easily even if the hole is small. And anyway,the hole can be a little bit larger if needed,I don't see huge problems.

You will also find useful to give a look at this section of the "tablet",it's the left side :

Below you see the right side of the "tablet" :

and the top side :

 

[DirtyDingusMcgee]

@S-TKUC

+2 respect for dealing with this.

 

[S-TKUC]

I can't imagine fitting my finger through a 9mm gap, but...

If Mario can do it, then let's do it.

So, what advantages does this arrangement have over the one I proposed?

The PCIe will be blocked, but you will not be able to use a PCIe extension cable with a case this thick.

An example of a possible HDMI cable.
Since the product dimensions have not been provided, we do not know whether they are within the 19mm limit allowed for the case.

An example of a possible USB cable.
This product also does not provide dimensions.

---

Additional information
I found a compatible fan that can be used for cooling, so I'll share it as a note.

The fan connector of RockPro64 is a JST XH 2Pin connector.
As you can see from the product photo, the polarity is also the same. 1Pin is +, 2Pin is -.

 

[ziomario]

I can't imagine fitting my finger through a 9mm gap, but...

I don't have a 9mm gap :

Anyway,the reset / on-off button is a little bit useless,since the tablet can be turned off by issuing the shutdown command from the FreeBSD terminal and then detach the external cable (the trigger cable) that connect the powerbank to the Rockpro.

 

[S-TKUC]

You're talking about the PINE64PLAYBOX, right?

Are you planning to use that case?

Are you saying that the TAKACHI PF24-4-17W design is pointless?

---

In your PINE64PLAYBOX example, styrene foam is sandwiched between the RockPro64 and the display.

This places the power switch higher than the power bank.

In the TAKACHI PF24-4-17W case that I am designing, there is no such space.

The gap between the RockPro64 and the display is assumed to be 0.1mm.
This is the thickness to allow for insulating Kapton tape or similar to be applied for safety.

As a result, the power button is placed at the same height as the power bank, with a gap of 9mm.

---

If you want to arrange it the same way as your PINE64PLAYBOX example, it's not possible with the PF24-4-17W.

You'll have to change to a 60mm thick case, such as the PF24-6-17W.

Do you really want to gain an extra 20mm of thickness?

 

[ziomario]

You're talking about the PINE64PLAYBOX, right?

Are you planning to use that case?

Are you saying that the TAKACHI PF24-4-17W design is pointless?

I'm talking about the PINE64PLAYBOX yes. I have always talked by looking and examining this enclosure because I can see it clearly with my eyes and because I've thought for months what could be the best disposition of the hardware components inside it. I don't have clear in my mind how much the TAKACHI PF24-4-17W can be close to the layout that I have in mind. That's the reason why I asked you,some posts ago :

Excuse me,but at this point I think that you have understood what's the "geometry" of my case and you know where the electronic components are located. You should know or you can also calculate the dimensions of the powerbanks,of the rockpro and so on. Where you don't have the missing informations you can ask me and I will guide you. So,I think that's easier for you to create a case taking the STL file that I gave you and apporting some further modifications. I also think that on the end,these modifications aren't huges. This could be a better choice than trying to adapt the TAKACHI case that knows nothing about the dislocation of my components.

Anyway,I could buy it to see clearly how to adapt the components inside it. Does it make sense ?

 

[S-TKUC]

So you were going to reverse your statement to buy and modify the TAKACHI case at some point and demand that we design our own case for 3D printing based on the PINE64PLAYBOX?

I'm exploring the enclosures sold by TAKACHI ELECTRONICS. At this stage I don't want to ask them to create a tailor-made enclosure. I just need only a box that's able to reflect the main sizes I need : width,height and depth.

You should have said more clearly, "Stop designing TAKACHI" or something like that.

It wasted a lot of time and effort.

 

[ziomario]

So you were going to reverse your statement to buy and modify the TAKACHI case at some point and demand that we design our own case for 3D printing based on the PINE64PLAYBOX?

You should have said more clearly, "Stop designing TAKACHI" or something like that.

It wasted a lot of time and effort.

I didn't say that I want this. I said this :

I don't have clear in my mind how much the TAKACHI PF24-4-17W can be close to the layout that I have in mind (and under my eyes),where I've been able to adapt every piece in a good way.

and I've added this statement :

Anyway,I could buy it to see clearly how to adapt the components inside it. Does it make sense ?

and now this :

Can you point me to an online shop where I can buy it ? So that I can realize better how to place the components inside of it without losing some funcionality.

 

[S-TKUC]

Let's think of this as an incident caused by a lack of communication, and as a learning experience...

I only based it on TAKACHI to show a simple example of how I would design it.

If I really wanted to make something good, I would naturally design a special case to be made with a 3D printer.

Can you point me to an online shop where I can buy it ? So that I can realize better how to place the components inside of it without losing some funcionality.

And this is a crucial difference between you and me.

I can evaluate cases as long as I have the CAD files online.

It doesn't cost me anything, but I'll make a better choice if I put in the time and effort.

You can't evaluate until you actually buy and place it.

You might be able to make a better choice if you weren't limited by the money to buy and the time it takes to get the product.

---

I don't have the idea of buying a case at the consideration stage.

I can't find one I like among the case options that offer CAD files.
I'm looking for a case that can't be made with 3D printing, such as acrylic or aluminum.
Only when I find a case that doesn't have CAD data but might be usable... will I actually choose to buy it.

---

Of course, if I didn't have financial restrictions, I could create a design drawing for a custom aluminum or acrylic case and place an order...
I almost never choose to buy just to consider it.

Or, when size doesn't matter, I sometimes buy food storage containers from a local kiosk and process them...

---

For reference, here is the sales page for TAKACHI cases that may be available in your country.

RS ONLINE

When I checked, I found that they had PF24-4-24D and PF24-4-24W (different colors), but not sizes PF24-4-17 or PF24-6-17.

In my country, it is available on multiple websites. (TAKACHI is a Japanese company.)

MISUMI
MONOTARO
Amazon

 

[ziomario]

It hasn't any frame to prevent the screen from moving. PlayBox has it. And it does not have any hole. Without holes,how can I expose outside of the enclosure the various connectors ? I think I should use an hacksaw or some other tool to make the holes. But then what's the benefit ? I should tell you the measurements like I did for my PlayBox. At this point,I think that its easier if you work on the STL file of the PlayBox and you adapt it.

 

[S-TKUC]

No need for that.
I already have the CAD data, so I can design as many custom cases as I want.
I can even design a duct to guide the speaker sound to the front while fixing the display.
If only I had the motivation...

Of course, the same thing happened when I processed the TAKACHI case.
I intended to design 3D printed parts to mount all the components, including the display.

 

[ziomario]

So,there is no need for me to buy the TAKACHI case. It can't be modded easily. The ball of the game seems to be in your hands.

From my point of view : Plan B is to find (or ask to a company to create it ) a basic polystirene box like this one :

that has the right dimensions,adapt it by my own making holes and markers and then send it to a 3D cad modeller. It is light,so the shipping costs should not be high.

UPDATE : I could do the same with the TAKACHI case. Its true that it can't be modded easily like the polystirene,but if the dimensions are good like they seem to be,I can try it,anyway. Im not sure if the costs that I should afford to buy a customized polystirene box are the same as the costs of the TAKACHI case. I suspect that they could be higher.

 

[S-TKUC]

I found a wide variety of inexpensive USB cables on Amazon in my country, but I have not yet found one in the condition you can get it on.
It's a very small space and has all the combinations of length and orientation that make it look appealing.

I found the same thing on aliexpress.

There are also Type-C to Type-C connectors.

 

[ziomario]

I found a wide variety of inexpensive USB cables on Amazon in my country, but I have not yet found one in the condition you can get it on.
It's a very small space and has all the combinations of length and orientation that make it look appealing.

I found the same thing on aliexpress.
View attachment 389423

There are also Type-C to Type-C connectors.
View attachment 389424

To make what ? What's the purpose ? Where do you want to use an "inexpensive USB cable" ?

Do you really want to gain an extra 20mm of thickness?

Nope. This is what I hate more.

 

[S-TKUC]

I envisioned a USB for touch panel communication that could be wired without interfering with the power button of the RockPro64.

(If it were me, I would solder the wires on the back of the RockPro64 board and pull out the USB signal...)

 

[ziomario]

I've got an idea that we haven't yet evaluated. What about to buy the TAKACHI enclosure,BUT making a customized back cover ? A back cover almost the same as the original one,at least for dimensions,but with the holes that will help to get access to the parts that aren't inaccessible from outside...

(If it were me, I would solder the wires on the back of the RockPro64 board and pull out the USB signal...)

To make soldering goes against my philosophy and my abilities. Because I would like to build a modular device, where I can add and remove as many components as possible. Soldering interferes with modularity. And if it breaks I don't know where to go to fix it. I live in the middle of nowhere.

 

[S-TKUC]

I've already lost interest in designing a case for TAKACHI.

If I were to do it, I'd build a case from scratch using a 3D printer.

But I'm not interested in drilling holes in the back to access the interfaces.

Because the cables are not visible from the front, I'd forget I'd plugged something in and end up pulling it.
Also, the force exerted when plugging and unplugging could damage the board and connectors.

I don't like that.

Maybe I should explain myself a little better.

I am one of those stubborn engineers who are very particular about things.

Unless there is a convincing reason, I will continue to insist on the vertical orientation of the RockPro64 like the PINE64PlayBOX.

 

[ziomario]

Also, the force exerted when plugging and unplugging could damage the board and connectors.

This is exactly the reason why the PlayBOX enclosure has the holes where to put the screws to fasten the RockPro64 :

Did you forget the presence of that pins ?

Anyway,if you put the RockPro vertically,you "should" find a solution to be able to continue using all the components that are placed on top or bottom because they will be in close contact with the surface where the tablet rests. if you want to avoid that, you have to avoid that the RockPro64 touches the support surface. And the only way I know is to use again the pins. But the position of those pins is not the same as now. They should be able to keep the board suspended. Or you should use some kind of external support to raise the tablet at least of 3 cm.

 

[S-TKUC]

First, the layout you proposed.

I estimate the overall case height to be around 45mm.

There will be a 10mm gap between the RockPro64 and the display.

Only the microSD card is accessible from the bottom of the tablet.

---

Next is the layout I'm thinking of.
When holding the tablet in your right hand, it will be comfortable because the center of gravity is on the right side.
When holding it in your left hand, it will feel heavy.

The height of the case is planned to be 37mm.

The HDMI U-shaped adapter crosses the top of the RockPro64 board, but this is not a problem as the components on the RockPro64 board are lower in height than the NB10000 power bank.

A gap is required under the tablet when using a LAN cable, but there is enough space to fit a built-in tablet stand.

EDIT
I had to make the case a little taller.
To use USB inside.

You decide whether thinness or a small footprint is more important to you.

 

[ziomario]

A gap is required under the tablet when using a LAN cable, but there is enough space to fit a built-in tablet stand.

My layout does not requires a stand.

I had to make the case a little taller.

I don't like a tablet that looks like a brick. I suspect that my layout offers a better thinness than your.

So,correct me if I'm wrong : Does my layout offers more thinness and a smaller footprint than your (because it does not need a stand) ?

In my layout the board is blocked with the screws to 3 pins and it will not move. (its better to block it on 4 pins,but I have no idea where to place the fourth,since the pin falls right in the middle of the case...

Using the USB-A and USB-C to 90 degree converters on the back will give a touch of innovation to the product.

Also, I have to say that your layout would force me to buy new adapters other than the ones I have now.

Does my layout seems to be a little bit better ?

I can't insist if you don't like it. I probably won't find anyone else who can help me like you are doing ...so,if you really insist...

I don't even know if I'll like your layout right now because I don't have it in front of me ; I don't have a clear idea. I only see mine and I see that everything works enough good.

 

[S-TKUC]

Understood.

For the record, my layout is 10mm thinner, but 10mm larger vertically (not in thickness).

Right now I was working on the speaker grill design.

Don't worry about the board, as it will be held up to some extent by all 4 points.

The part count for the case alone will be 5-8.

I'm thinking about how to make the power button on the LCD function smartly.

Just as FreeBSD is your goal, not a means to an end...
For me, working with 3D CAD is the goal itself, and I enjoy the work itself.

Once I get the shape right and can work on it the way I want, my motivation continues.

There was something I needed to check.

Is the RockPro64 MicroSD the type that can be inserted and removed by pushing it in?

Or do you have to pinch it with your fingers and pull it out?