ThrottleStop Setting

[unclewebb]

core 240 and cache 120

Improvement in performance or temperatures usually ends when the core is set to approximately -225 mV. When you go beyond this level, you will probably not see any improvement. Even if you set the core to -1000 mV, it will ignore the majority of that.

 

[budgetgaming]

Improvement in performance or temperatures usually ends when the core is set to approximately -225 mV. When you go beyond this level, you will probably not see any improvement. Even if you set the core to -1000 mV, it will ignore the majority of that.

Noted

I have increase the PL1 55wat & PL2 70w, I have tested a few 60/80 temperature goes above 95 degree if i do the 60/80, I think i will go with the 55/70 it much below 95 watt.

I have attached the file for advice, I do not dare to put 70/90 just like @AOne said, these temperature is to high and will throttle I think.

Any way thank you guys for advising to set the throttelstop, you guys have been very helpfull, thank you: @unclewebb , @nguyen and also @AOne for participating...

 

[unclewebb]

@budgetgaming - Your log file shows that at the top of the hour (22:00) your CPU is PL1 power limit throttling at 55W. At 22:26 your CPU starts to PL1 power limit throttle at 50W. Did you change this setting within ThrottleStop while testing?

If you did not change this setting in ThrottleStop and if you are still using the FIVR - Disable and Lock Turbo Power Limits option then that means your laptop has been designed to enforce a long term 50W power limit. You are on the edge of thermal throttling at 55W so backing this off to 50W is not a bad idea. If your laptop is forcing this on you, then it is what it is.

 

[budgetgaming]

@budgetgaming - Your log file shows that at the top of the hour (22:00) your CPU is PL1 power limit throttling at 55W. At 22:26 your CPU starts to PL1 power limit throttle at 50W. Did you change this setting within ThrottleStop while testing?

If you did not change this setting in ThrottleStop and if you are still using the FIVR - Disable and Lock Turbo Power Limits option then that means your laptop has been designed to enforce a long term 50W power limit. You are on the edge of thermal throttling at 55W so backing this off to 50W is not a bad idea. If your laptop is forcing this on you, then it is what it is.

Sorry I did change the PL1 and PL2 because in throttle stop I saw yellow indicator of thermal, but when I saw in the log file I did not see any thermal, I thought is war throttling thats why i change the PL1 and PL2 in the middle of testing.

 

[unclewebb]

Sorry I did change the PL1 and PL2

Busted. I have a keen eye when looking through those ThrottleStop log files.

It is OK to have some brief thermal throttling. If you have continuous thermal throttling then you need to improve cooling or you can reduce your turbo power limits. Some people prefer power limit throttling and some prefer thermal throttling. It does not really matter.

 

[budgetgaming]

Busted. I have a keen eye when looking through those ThrottleStop log files.

It is OK to have some brief thermal throttling. If you have continuous thermal throttling then you need to improve cooling or you can reduce your turbo power limits. Some people prefer power limit throttling and some prefer thermal throttling. It does not really matter.

Eye like a hawk, hahaha, i prefer my Laptop under 95, max if possible is 90 degree +-, since we cannot control di ambient temperature, especialy Indonesia has hot weather, I am testing the thermal in air conditioner room, which I elevate in Laptop stand, when Traveling I seldom bring the laptop stand which will sit flat on the table, that what I consider.

I will be going for 55 / 70 for PLi think is sweespot for my laptop in COD, I have to try other heavy games which CPU intensive to see more result. but as @nguyen said better replace the thermal paste with higher viscosity for laptop. I found that my krynaut needs to be change quite often if CPU temperature is always on 90++

 

[budgetgaming]

I tried on PL1 70watt and PL2 on 90 watt, the CPU clock speed are good but get thermal, There is no PL1 and PL2 warning, about the power status change I think the command center it self set the power change.

Maybe I need to bring it down a little bit lets say 65/85...... or 60/80 maybe

 

[nguyen]

Well if you plan on using your laptop for a long time then I don't think running high power limit is a good idea. Remember that your laptop warranty is only 1 year, the CPU might be ok running 97C but the power circuitry could cook itself to death.
Other heat related death is solder joints, high temperature swing (low ambient temp and high temperature load) could cause solder to fail, and yeah after that your Laptop is dead.
These are reasons why Laptop have such short warranty
Overall the cost of running high PL seems to outweight the benefits. You wouldn't even notice the perf difference when the CPU is running at 3.9ghz vs 4ghz anyways.

 

[budgetgaming]

Well if you plan on using your laptop for a long time then I don't think running high power limit is a good idea. Remember that your laptop warranty is only 1 year, the CPU might be ok running 97C but the power circuitry could cook itself to death.
Other heat related death is solder joints, high temperature swing (low ambient temp and high temperature load) could cause solder to fail, and yeah after that your Laptop is dead.
These are reasons why Laptop have such short warranty
Overall the cost of running high PL seems to outweight the benefits. You wouldn't even notice the perf difference when the CPU is running at 3.9ghz vs 4ghz anyways.

Agree, i think PL1 55 watt and PL2 at 65 Watt is good enough already, Its a laptop have to sacrifice mobility versus performance

 

[nguyen]

Agree, i think PL1 55 watt and PL2 at 65 Watt is good enough already, Its a laptop have to sacrifice mobility versus performance

Yeah you have to sacrifice some performance for reliability too, by lowering the VRM temp by 10C you could make the capacitors last twice as long.
Capacitors usually have endurance rating of 2000-5000h at 105C depending on brand, at 95C its lifespan is doubled. There are no thermal sensor on capacitors and VRM (or not exposed to users), so you never know if they are overheating or not, you just know when they die. When I opened my laptop to repaste, I noticed that the inductors and capacitors do not make contact with the heatsink, they will build up heat over time.

That is probably why some OEM put some stringent PL into their Laptop (Dell put like 10W PL into their laptop), as to improve their reliablity. Some industry numbers mention Laptop have a failure rate of 30% in 3 years.

For me I run PL1/PL2 of 45W and I'm happy with the performance and fan noise.

Yeah inverted motherboard is a pain to take apart ~_~

 

[budgetgaming]

Yeah you have to sacrifice some performance for reliability too, by lowering the VRM temp by 10C you could make the capacitors last twice as long.
Capacitors usually have endurance rating of 2000-5000h at 105C depending on brand, at 95C its lifespan is doubled. There are no thermal sensor on capacitors and VRM (or not exposed to users), so you never know if they are overheating or not, you just know when they die. When I opened my laptop to repaste, I noticed that the inductors and capacitors do not make contact with the heatsink, they will build up heat over time.

That is probably why some OEM put some stringent PL into their Laptop (Dell put like 10W PL into their laptop), as to improve their reliablity. Some industry numbers mention Laptop have a failure rate of 30% in 3 years.

For me I run PL1/PL2 of 45W and I'm happy with the performance and fan noise.

View attachment 171448

Yeah inverted motherboard is a pain to take apart ~_~

What gaming laptop are u using? Must be crazy spec laptop, does vrm can use thermal paste also?

 

[nguyen]

What gaming laptop are u using? Must be crazy spec laptop, does vrm can use thermal paste also?

I have the Acer Triton 500 with 10875H + 2070 Super, 32GB RAM, 300hz screen, yeah I would like my laptop to last as long as it can
The VRM of CPU and GPU do have some thermal pads, but not chokes and capacitors.

May be I can pop open the back of the laptop and measure the temperature on the back side of the PCB , usually they are close enough to the surface temp of the components.

 

[budgetgaming]

I am planing to give the omem laptop to my son, thats why i set the throttlestop first because he only knows how to play only. I am thinking of dell m15 or msi GE66 what do you recomend, looking for rtx 2070 super for my next.... But rtx 3 series is on the corner. Should i wait?

 

[AOne]

I would avoid both Dell and HP. Dell are usually locking their voltages. Maybe Lenovo, Asus, Acer would be a better choice. I'm happy with my ASUS (9750h/RTX2070). Asus' heatsinks are really capable of dissipating all the heat, unlike many other popular brands. Their only problem is bad quality factory applied TIM (just like all the others). And they're noisy in Turbo mode of course, but it's understandable - that's the way to throw out the heat. By the way their 2020 models come with factory applied Liquid Metal and recent years models are with paste on the VRAM - no thermal pads used.

 

[budgetgaming]

Correct me if i am wrong Asus=Rog, Acer= predator right? What do you think of MSI, alittle cheap site on material if what I think

 

[AOne]

Yes, Asus=Rog. I've not seen anything for MSI recently.

 

[budgetgaming]

I was browsing for GE66 it has 10gen intel and rtx 2070, i have seen know that amd gen 4 is a big hit, which some claim better performance then intel gen 10, is it true? But i jave never seen above rtx 2060 for amd

 

[nguyen]

I am planing to give the omem laptop to my son, thats why i set the throttlestop first because he only knows how to play only. I am thinking of dell m15 or msi GE66 what do you recomend, looking for rtx 2070 super for my next.... But rtx 3 series is on the corner. Should i wait?

If you plan on giving your laptop to your son then maybe set the PL to be more conservative is better.

I would advice you to wait a while before buying new laptop now that mobile RTX 3000 is about to come out.
Intel 10th mobile and Ryzen 4000 mobile are about the same for gaming, with AMD being better for production workload but there are no high end GPU for AMD platform yet.

So yeah, just wait.

 

[budgetgaming]

I just repaste my laptop with thermalright tf, which has red tube, but i found that the temp are much higher then using thermal grizzly krynout....... whne TPL 1 & 2 on 45 and 50, never had issue with thermal, but replace it then try to pl COD, thermal are crazy, this is just browsing with chrome.

 

[AOne]

Try once more. It should be from the application method and assembly. I spread a very thin and even layer and then tighten the screws very carefully according their numbers. If the second attempt fails, try another one... and so on.

 

[unclewebb]

@budgetgaming - Your log file shows that when your CPU is fully loaded and power consumption is at 45W, the CPU temperature is mostly in the 75°C to 80°C range. Lots of power limit throttling but the temperatures are a long ways from causing any thermal throttling.

If you were only browsing with Chrome, you might want to open up the Task Manager and find out why your CPU was fully loaded.

 

[nguyen]

Woops forgot to give you some advices on the TF-X application
_Put 5 big blobs on the GPU (1 center and 4 corners)
_Put 1 long blob on the CPU
_Mount the heatsink and tighten the screws in the X order to distribute the pressure evenly
_Use hair dryer to heat up the entire heatsink combo for a few minutes
_Tighten the screws a bit more.

TF-X is much thicker than Kryonaut, so you have to heat it up and tighten the screws as much as possible.

If your mount is perfect, check if you have lower GPU temp than before. If GPU temp is indeed lower, it just means that more heat from GPU are being transfered to the heatsink, thus heat up the CPU a bit more than before.

If your CPU core to core temperature are consistent (<10C difference) then all is good even when temp is slightly higher compare to Kryonaut, remember that Kryonaut is the best TIM out there, its only defect is the pump out effect which I talked about earlier.

 

[budgetgaming]

Woops forgot to give you some advices on the TF-X application
_Put 5 big blobs on the GPU (1 center and 4 corners)
_Put 1 long blob on the CPU
_Mount the heatsink and tighten the screws in the X order to distribute the pressure evenly
_Use hair dryer to heat up the entire heatsink combo for a few minutes
_Tighten the screws a bit more.

TF-X is much thicker than Kryonaut, so you have to heat it up and tighten the screws as much as possible.

If your mount is perfect, check if you have lower GPU temp than before. If GPU temp is indeed lower, it just means that more heat from GPU are being transfered to the heatsink, thus heat up the CPU a bit more than before.

If your CPU core to core temperature are consistent (<10C difference) then all is good even when temp is slightly higher compare to Kryonaut, remember that Kryonaut is the best TIM out there, its only defect is the pump out effect which I talked about earlier.

Thats strange, my thermalright is not that hard, it the same as other brand regarding the stickyness. Did i get fake one?

 

[nguyen]

It supposed to look very dry when you try to spread it, make it impossible to spread properly so I just put blobs of it on GPU and GPU instead.

 

[budgetgaming]

Repaste again and manualy spreding it. You all are correct the temps can't beet the Thermal Grizzly....but maybe this would last longer. attached the log file PL1 & 2 is on 45watt