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TPU's Nostalgic Hardware Club

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They do clock better but are worse in performance, roughly 4.7GHz Clarkdale = 4GHz Lynnfield. I think it has to do with the memory performance which is about half of Lynnfield.
Hmm? Usually the 32nm Clarksale CPUs have slightly higher IPC, at worst it's the same.

Example with a Sandy CPU thrown in for comparative purposes.
Screenshot_20220312-110241_Photos.jpg
Screenshot_20220312-110320_Photos.jpg

Screenshot_20220312-111148_Photos.jpg

Both 1156 were stock with same exact board, cooler, and dual channel 1600mhz ram. The Sandy i3 results are on the low side because it was tested on my itx system which uses a single stick of slow sodimm and a h61 board meant for industrial purposes. Board uses a proprietary tiny heatsink that can't be upgraded.

Looking at single core to eliminate the obvious core count differences.

The i7 860 boosts to 3.46 on single core tests, the i3 550 is at 3.2 and the i3 2120 is at 3.3.

The performance per clock is better on the 32nm i3, although not significantly.

i7 860: 85/3.46 = 24.5
i3 550: 89/3.2 = 27.8
I3 2120: 111/3.3 = 33.6

Cinebench isn't particularly memory intensive, so it is possible other applications may fair worse if the memory latency is worse, but I have never seen performance like you are saying.
 
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Even the i7s aren't an arm and a leg for that platform.

32nm chips will be the best for a retro system and provide the most overclocking fun, however. You will be able to get much more clockspeed out of them than a 45nm quad core would ever get you.

I got an i7 860 atop an Intel H55TC board included with a big lot of boards I got aboth 6 months ago now. It has fsb adjustment but no voltage control, so it's limited in what it can do. I also have an i3 550.

Some day I'll get a proper board for the platform and crack 5ghz out of the i3.
I have a dell 580 with that cpu. unfourunatly i must have somehow damaged the pins in the cpu unit when i upgraded to an i7 860,:( lucky enough i did not damage that ,so was able to get a refund :)
.I just hope i don,t when i replace the i3 4150 with an i5 4570 on my new dell 3020 mt.Our good frirend on this subject
:)This is it here.I don,t see how i could have done all that damage.I place it in the socket the way the does it in the video
thats the way i did it.
 

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It does seem Clarksale memory latency is far worse, however how much that impacts performance would depend a ton on workload. It's possible it could be quite significant in some games, but others might not care much.

Manually adjusting the NB GTL and CPU GTL reference voltages slightly has fixed the stability issues and is actually letting me dial the memory OC even further.
 
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I second that, X3470 all the way.
Can be found for just a hair over $20, I've dropped them directly into two ASUS P55 boards with no problem. Binned higher, probably never been OC'd before. @MaxiPro800 I think X3470 + H55 / H57 are your best bet (or P55 if you want to spend a little extra). Otherwise, you could always keep your current CPU and look for a decent P35 / P45 motherboard to wring out some more performance.
Thanks for the tip!

Here are my options as far as it goes:

1. Stay on 775 and pick up an ASUS P5K64 WS locally (supposedly reported as defective - doesn't save CMOS, according to the seller :laugh:)
2. Move to 1156, and buy a X3430 (the cheapest I could find) and maybe a H55M-UD2H as well (I'd like to keep the microATX format :) )
 
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If 1156 is similar cost it will perform a bit better and might be the better choice.
 
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Thanks for the tip!

Here are my options as far as it goes:

1. Stay on 775 and pick up an ASUS P5K64 WS locally (supposedly reported as defective - doesn't save CMOS, according to the seller :laugh:)
2. Move to 1156, and buy a X3430 (the cheapest I could find) and maybe a H55M-UD2H as well (I'd like to keep the microATX format :) )

1156 if you find a good board with Xeon-compatible BIOS. 6-core X56xx are pretty solid.
 
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Thanks for the tip!

Here are my options as far as it goes:

1. Stay on 775 and pick up an ASUS P5K64 WS locally (supposedly reported as defective - doesn't save CMOS, according to the seller :laugh:)
2. Move to 1156, and buy a X3430 (the cheapest I could find) and maybe a H55M-UD2H as well (I'd like to keep the microATX format :) )
Well in that case, it comes down to which one is cheaper and if you want to OC. :) because you certainly would get better performance out of Lynnfield / Clarkdale. But that ASUS board looks quality for sure, if you're getting it for cheap then I'd actually use LGA775 personally. That GB board doesn't have VRM heatsink, so I'd be concerned about that limiting max OC, although check out what reviews say on that. CPUs are even cheaper still for 775, so if you degraded what you have then replacement is easy.

Imo both are fantastic, stable platforms. Neither are a bad choice. Do you absolutely need any newer features from H55? Or instructions that 1156 can handle, which 775 may not? Do you need mATX? If the answer to all three is no, and the answer to "do you want to OC?" is yes, then: 775 all the way. :)
 
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fully tweaked.PNG


Aidabench.PNG

Dialed in my overclock. The CPU won't go any lower than 1.35v. The dram timings and performance mode are all dialed in and while there may be a TINY bit more to give, its basically set. It is stable in every test I have thrown at it, including extended prime 95 runs. However, I will game some later and see if it gives me any issues.

I got 1129mhz 6-6-4-14 2.0V out of a 800 6-6-6-24 1.8V rated kit. No heatspreaders, very basic stuff but it overclocks nicely. It does scale to higher voltages from some tests, but I am not looking to cook this kit, so I won't go further for an OC I plan to run for awhile.
I wonder how much Crysis benefits from the memory tuning. Cinebench benefited but not a ton.
 
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I would like to see that at CAS 5 on the memory.
Your 9550 OC is about right for an average chip.
Mine is about the same.
image_id_2296096.jpg
 
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I would like to see that at CAS 5 on the memory.
Your 9550 OC is about right for an average chip.
Mine is about the same.View attachment 239602
It can't run any lower on the cas latency without reducing frequency or increasing voltage.
 
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It can't run any lower on the cas latency without reducing frequency or increasing voltage.
I understand that. Can you do 900 @ CAS 5? Bet it's faster than your 11xx @ CAS 6.
Even 800 @ CAS 4 I'd like to see.
Speed isn't everything if you're not increasing performance.
 
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32nm chips will be the best for a retro system and provide the most overclocking fun, however. You will be able to get much more clockspeed out of them than a 45nm quad core would ever get you.
None of the Clarkdale's are quad-cores. They are all dual-core only. Lynnfield is the only 1156 option if you want a quad-core, and really who doesn't?
 
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I understand that. Can you do 900 @ CAS 5? Bet it's faster than your 11xx @ CAS 6.
Even 800 @ CAS 4 I'd like to see.
Speed isn't everything if you're not increasing performance.
Unfortunately I can't test this because of a few problems.

The minimum memory strap with 470mhz fsb is 941mhz, so in order to get 800 and 900 the rest of the system has to slow down.

But the main issue is that this ram REALLY hates a tight cas latency.

Fastest I can get cl5 to even post on is 800mhz. Even 849mhz cl5 won't post if with otherwise loose timings. 800mhz 4-4-4-12 won't work either.

However without being able to test it you can still get rough numbers assuming a other timings are the same:

Overall Ram Latency = Cas Latency times 2000 over ram frequency

Or RL = CL X 2000 / Mhz

5 X 2000 / 900 = 11.1
6 X 2000 / 1129 = 10.6

1129mhz CL6 would have lower latency overall than 900mhz CL5, and of course better max bandwidth.

The fact this ram is semi ok and can't do 850 cl5 maybe makes me think my OCZ isn't complete crap since I gave up when it couldn't do 850 cl5
 
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Ehhh.........that ram is crap, and so is the OCZ. No disrespect intended.
Decent DDR2 should do 1000 give or take a little @ CAS 5.

And, I know the formula, but that is theoretical numbers. Actual performance may surprise you. Increased bandwidth only helps you if you can actually use it.
 
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1129 cl6 is probably no slower than 1000 cl5.

1 cl is not a huge jump.

But yes the ocz is complete and utter garbage. It will not oc at all. I can't get 941 out of it with cl7. Horrible stuff
 
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1129 cl6 is probably no slower than 1000 cl5.

1 cl is not a huge jump.
It is in certain benchmarks. SuperPi for example.
Again, just depends on your usage for the machine is all.
 
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Like probably most people here, I've had my fair share of scam / terribly packed / just generally bad experiences with sellers. Kinda makes it hard to trust any of them. However, there are of course a great many honest sellers as well. But this one... whoever the hell you are, thank you for selling this brilliant board for next to nothing. :D

So, it's a Sabertooth 990FX r1.01, one of the best FX boards ASUS ever made. I wanted this motherboard when I was looking at parts for my first PC, but just couldn't afford or justify it. A good example still goes for $150-$250 on eBay. This one? $25, plus $16 shipping. So this must be the most busted-up, vaseline-covered, demolished, heatsink-less board ever, right?

Here's the original listing:

Screenshot_20220310-015119_eBay.jpg


Uhh, okay? Soldering iron accident perhaps? Shit happens, let's check the board:

Screenshot_20220310-015108_eBay.jpg

What?! That's it?! It posts, I'm sold!!

20220312_123834.jpg

Before I get to the beauty shots, let's peep the damage. To me it doesn't even look that severe, I bet the chip still functions fine.

Plus, it's actually a very easy fix!
20220312_152829.jpg

Should heal in a week. :p

Really though, I don't use FireWire anyway, so just to be safe(r) I disabled it in BIOS.

20220312_131155.jpg

20220312_131125.jpg

20220312_124441.jpg

20220312_124612.jpg

Socket is pristine.
20220312_124456.jpg


Now, it has MX-4 for the NB & SB, 1.0mm APT2560 for the doublers(?) on the rear and 0.5mm for the top. The board performs absolutely flawlessly, and is 99% intact (I did the math). Plus it's r1.01, so I still have Core Unlock... Feel like I just robbed a bank...

OC adventures to come, that I can promise ;)
 
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Like probably most people here, I've had my fair share of scam / terribly packed / just generally bad experiences with sellers. Kinda makes it hard to trust any of them. However, there are of course a great many honest sellers as well. But this one... whoever the hell you are, thank you for selling this brilliant board for next to nothing. :D

So, it's a Sabertooth 990FX r1.01, one of the best FX boards ASUS ever made. I wanted this motherboard when I was looking at parts for my first PC, but just couldn't afford or justify it. A good example still goes for $150-$250 on eBay. This one? $25, plus $16 shipping. So this must be the most busted-up, vaseline-covered, demolished, heatsink-less board ever, right?

Here's the original listing:

View attachment 239624

Uhh, okay? Soldering iron accident perhaps? Shit happens, let's check the board:

View attachment 239625
What?! That's it?! It posts, I'm sold!!

View attachment 239626
Before I get to the beauty shots, let's peep the damage. To me it doesn't even look that severe, I bet the chip still functions fine.

Plus, it's actually a very easy fix!
View attachment 239627
Should heal in a week. :p

Really though, I don't use FireWire anyway, so just to be safe(r) I disabled it in BIOS.

View attachment 239628
View attachment 239629
View attachment 239630
View attachment 239631
Socket is pristine.
View attachment 239632

Now, it has MX-4 for the NB & SB, 1.0mm APT1560 for the doublers(?) on the rear and 0.5mm for the top. The board performs absolutely flawlessly, and is 99% intact (I did the math). Plus it's r1.01, so I still have Core Unlock... Feel like I just robbed a bank...

OC adventures to come, that I can promise ;)
Excellent board, does everything you could ever want an AM3+ board, aside from run FX9xxx, which is not a big loss IMO. My R2.0 Has been rock solid reliable, great for overclocking, and has a very easy to use graphical BIOS. Proper modern features too, usb 3, sata iii, uefi, etc. Nice find! Happy overclocking!
 
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Excellent board, does everything you could ever want an AM3+ board, aside from run FX9xxx, which is not a big loss IMO. My R2.0 Has been rock solid reliable, great for overclocking, and has a very easy to use graphical BIOS. Proper modern features too, usb 3, sata iii, uefi, etc. Nice find! Happy overclocking!
My rev. 1 runs FX 9xxx. :D


image_id_1262675.jpeg
 
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Memory 32GB (4x8gb) Hynix 3466mhz CL17 (2x8 Team Dark Z DDR4-4000 CL18 + 2x8 Vcolor Prism DDR4-3466 CL17)
Video Card(s) EVGA GTX 1660 Super 6gb
Storage Sabrent Rocket Q 1tb NVME + 500gb Samsung HDD
Display(s) Triple monitor setup w/ Viewsonic 1080p 144hz main + 2 Dell Ultrasharps
Case DeepCool Matrexx 55 w/ 3x Arctic F14 PWM + 3X Arctic F12 PWM
Audio Device(s) Logitech X530 5.1 Spearkers + Beyer Dynamic DT770 PRO's driven by a Creative Labs Sound Blaster Z
Power Supply Corsair HX750i 80+ Platinum
Mouse Logitech G502
Keyboard Leopold FC750R Cherry MX Brown
Software Microsoft Windows 10 Professional x64
It is in certain benchmarks. SuperPi for example.
Again, just depends on your usage for the machine is all.

Just bought a lot of 40 untested "Used condition - Most pulled for working PCs then placed in storage - some may not work" sticks for $25+10 shipping on eBay including 2 kits identical model to my OCZ. I bet they are all different dies, none of which will overclock worth anything :laugh: Guess they went out of business for a reason, hey.

Picture is not high enough resolution to make out what much of it is, but some of them should be decent, and just about all of the OEM stuff is probably better than the OCZ lol. I have a Samsung E die 2x1gb kit that is only 666 rated but can do nearly double that with lax timings. I got it booted at 1320mhz CL7 but it wasn't stable.
 
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Location
Connecticut, USA
System Name Personal rig & Folder
Processor R9 5900X (VRM-B2) @ 180W/160A/140A | Mfg Wk03/2022
Motherboard Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro V2
Cooling Thermalright PA120 w/ 3x P12, MX-6
Memory 2x16GB Crucial Ballistix 8Gbit Rev.E (DR) @ 3800CL15-18-8-17-34-54-540-1T @ 1.45v, 1900MHz FCLK
Video Card(s) PowerColor Red Devil 6600XT @ C2800MHz/M2300MHz (Samsung) @ 192W TGP | MX-6, TP-3
Storage 1x SK hynix Gold P31 1TB (boot), 1x 2TB TeamGroup MP33 Pro, 1x 4TB Seagate Ironwolf HDD 5900RPM
Display(s) 1x Gigabyte M27Q, 1x Dell 2007WFP, 1x Dell E152FPg
Case Phanteks P500A (non-digital) w/ 4x 140mm Arctic P14 PWM PST CO fans
Audio Device(s) FiiO E10K-TC (USB) -> beyerdynamic DT770 Pro (80ohm)
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W
Mouse Logitech G203
Keyboard Kingston HyperX Core RGB
Software W10 Pro
Benchmark Scores https://hwbot.org/user/machinelearning/ ~ https://hwbot.org/team/warp9_systems/

Just bought a lot of 40 untested "Used condition - Most pulled for working PCs then placed in storage - some may not work" sticks for $25+10 shipping on eBay including 2 kits identical model to my OCZ. I bet they are all different dies, none of which will overclock worth anything :laugh: Guess they went out of business for a reason, hey.

Picture is not high enough resolution to make out what much of it is, but some of them should be decent, and just about all of the OEM stuff is probably better than the OCZ lol. I have a Samsung E die 2x1gb kit that is only 666 rated but can do nearly double that with lax timings. I got it booted at 1320mhz CL7 but it wasn't stable.
I have some OCZ DDR2 ram too (at least 3 different Reaper 1066MHz versions, OCZ Platinum rev1 800 / 1066MHz) and they're all extremely mediocre... Going back in the day is a trip, brands which are habitually overpriced nowadays such as Corsair and ASUS were actually some of your best choices in their specialties.

Those SpecTek kits will probably not be too good either, but the low-profile KVR Micron(it looks like) could be a diamond in the rough?
Bet the Patriots will do 900 @ CAS 4. ;)
Idk what magic they have at Patriot, their RAM always seems to do exceedingly well, across all time. From D2 to Viper Steel 4400CL19 D4.
 
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