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TPU's Nostalgic Hardware Club

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yes :D



I use an AOC C24G1 (1ms VA panel, 24" 1920x1080 144Hz with VGA/HDMI/HDMI/DP) which allows some interesting things
1. Use 1280x1024 in 1:1 (so pixel perfect and basically full vertical panel coverage) over VGA at 85Hz (for Windows 98 systems and VGA only video cards)
2. Use 1024x768 in 1:1 (so pixel perfect with borders, but still equivalent to 17"-18") over VGA at 85Hz-100Hz (for Windows 98 systems and VGA only video cards)
3. Use 1280x1024 in 1:1 (so pixel perfect and basically full vertical panel coverage) over (HDMI-to-) DVI at 85-100Hz (for early Windows XP games, using DVI video cards)
4. Use 1680x1050 (pixel perfect) or native 1920x1080 for late XP games (over HDMI or DVI at 85-120Hz)
5. Use a modern system for 1080p gaming at 144Hz over DP

It costed around $200 and I think it's as good as it gets for versatility
When the solution to "building a native 720p monitor" is just to take a higher resolution monitor and set it to not scale the input, your solution is exactly what I would do as well, as that could be done on literally any monitor with the same or higher pixel count in both directions. I see no reason to go for an old (and likely quite low quality) LCD for that use case (barring a lack of suitable inputs, of course, which is another issue entirely). Heck, my work laptop's crap Intel iGPU lets me do that exact thing on both internal and external displays. Of course, if you have a 1440p display and a GPU supporting integer scaling, that also allows for using the full panel size while gaming at "native" 720p as well. And of course the same applies for more retro-friendly resolutions as well, though 1080p is sadly just a tad too low for 2x scaling of PAL 576i.
 
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Off by at least one pin or two, but you're almost there.

Going by the first photo, move it to the left ever so slightly, so the red wire on the reset header aligns with the green wire from the power switch. Don't move it down or upwards, just slightly to the left, so both black and red match the black and green.

Here's the manual:
Is this right? red next to the green.I don,t know why it was not connected in the first place. :(
 

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When the solution to "building a native 720p monitor" is just to take a higher resolution monitor and set it to not scale the input, your solution is exactly what I would do as well, as that could be done on literally any monitor with the same or higher pixel count in both directions. I see no reason to go for an old (and likely quite low quality) LCD for that use case (barring a lack of suitable inputs, of course, which is another issue entirely). Heck, my work laptop's crap Intel iGPU lets me do that exact thing on both internal and external displays. Of course, if you have a 1440p display and a GPU supporting integer scaling, that also allows for using the full panel size while gaming at "native" 720p as well. And of course the same applies for more retro-friendly resolutions as well, though 1080p is sadly just a tad too low for 2x scaling of PAL 576i.

yes I mean the "integer scaling feature" is useful only if you want to play older games (provided that they even start on Win10) on modern low end hardware, but I think there are much better solution for that anyways
 
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yes I mean the "integer scaling feature" is useful only if you want to play older games (provided that they even start on Win10) on modern low end hardware, but I think there are much better solution for that anyways
It's also useful for running emulated games in some situations, but IMO it's a bit underappreciated in terms of running lower-than-native resolutions on LCDs while avoiding sharpness loss. Of course there is the option of even better scaling modes - which all three major GPU vendors are hard at work at currently - but those tend either need complex per-game implementations or work poorly with low source resolutions, in which case integer scaling is still handy. Then again it's a damn shame that integer scaling isn't available on a lot of older hardware that could really make use of it (or that monitors don't offer it as an option). Not everyone can afford to spend €110 for an OSSC box :ohwell:
 
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Is this right? red next to the green.I don,t know why it was not connected in the first place. :(
Not yet. Basically both have to match in a parallel way. Check up the manual for the mobo I put up in the previous and you'll find where the reset goes - you should be seeing two free pins parallel to where the power switch wires are installed right now (which, by the orientation of your photo, would make it behind the power switch header). Those two free parallel pins are exactly where the reset button goes.

To make you understand easier how, here's a photo of an Asrock mainboard with a similar header, and where the RESET button goes. It's the same type of header as on your mobo. The last pin on the header goes unused, so you plug the reset buttons right next to the HD LED connector.
 

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Not yet. Basically both have to match in a parallel way. Check up the manual for the mobo I put up in the previous and you'll find where the reset goes - you should be seeing two free pins parallel to where the power switch wires are installed right now (which, by the orientation of your photo, would make it behind the power switch header). Those two free parallel pins are exactly where the reset button goes.

To make you understand easier how, here's a photo of an Asrock mainboard with a similar header, and where the RESET button goes. It's the same type of header as on your mobo. The last pin on the header goes unused, so you plug the reset buttons right next to the HD LED connector.
There are 3 pins an orange and two other pins .Sorry to be a pain Maxi.
First one orange the other 2 grey ,do i put it on the orange one or the nest two pins
I had to clean Magnifying Glass so i can see in there better.there is no pin in front of the orange one.As you can see.
 

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These are the pins where RESET goes, circled in blue. The one next to those circled goes unused.
 

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There are 3 pins an orange and two other pins .Sorry to be a pain Maxi.
First one orange the other 2 grey ,do i put it on the orange one or thae nest two pons
I had to clean Magnifying Glass so i can see in there better.there is no pin in front of the orange one.

These are the pins where RESET goes, circled in blue. The one next to those circled goes unused.
Thanks for your pationce ,you have been very helpfull Maxi. :)Photo with it in :)I just don,t know why it was not pluged in there in the first place.o_OI just hopethe PC is working well. o_OI can see clearly with the Magnifying Glass all cleaned. :)

This is sad..


That doesn't mean there isn't a few. His experience is limited. The first time he used it was in 2017;
That's a far cry from having it back when it was new.

Also, he has compared the two.
Where WinME has the advantage is in stablity and the fact the it can see & use more system RAM. There are other features that give WinME an edge over 98. WinME was entirely misunderstood and underappreciated.


They did. However....

... that's likely why they were never released. Though...

...this is not true. The SCSI 15k drive were a solid 15% faster.
If i use Windows Me i will have to get more ram as only 512 mb
This is sad..


That doesn't mean there isn't a few. His experience is limited. The first time he used it was in 2017;
That's a far cry from having it back when it was new.

Also, he has compared the two.
Where WinME has the advantage is in stablity and the fact the it can see & use more system RAM. There are other features that give WinME an edge over 98. WinME was entirely misunderstood and underappreciated.


They did. However....

... that's likely why they were never released. Though...

...this is not true. The SCSI 15k drive were a solid 15% faster.
So if i do install Windows ME i will have to get more Ram as there is only 512 mb in the PC.
 

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If i use Windows Me i will have to get more ram as only 512 mb

So if i do install Windows ME i will have to get more Ram as there is only 512 mb in the PC.
No, WinMe will work fine with 512 mb. It can use up to 2 gb, but it doesn't need it.

If you can find a really inexpensive RAM upgrade you can do it, but you don't need to do it.
 
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yes :D



I use an AOC C24G1 (1ms VA panel, 24" 1920x1080 144Hz with VGA/HDMI/HDMI/DP) which allows some interesting things
1. Use 1280x1024 in 1:1 (so pixel perfect and basically full vertical panel coverage) over VGA at 85Hz (for Windows 98 systems and VGA only video cards)
2. Use 1024x768 in 1:1 (so pixel perfect with borders, but still equivalent to 17"-18") over VGA at 85Hz-100Hz (for Windows 98 systems and VGA only video cards)
3. Use 1280x1024 in 1:1 (so pixel perfect and basically full vertical panel coverage) over (HDMI-to-) DVI at 85-100Hz (for early Windows XP games, using DVI video cards)
4. Use 1680x1050 (pixel perfect) or native 1920x1080 for late XP games (over HDMI or DVI at 85-120Hz)
5. Use a modern system for 1080p gaming at 144Hz over DP

It costed around $200 and I think it's as good as it gets for versatility
If you buy a 1440p, you can do authentic 720p because 1440p scales down to 720p perfectly.

So if i do install Windows ME i will have to get more Ram as there is only 512 mb in the PC.
512MB would be solid. 1GB would be better, but that's an upgrade you can do later.
 
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No, WinMe will work fine with 512 mb. It can use up to 2 gb, but it doesn't need it.

If you can find a really inexpensive RAM upgrade you can do it, but you don't need to do it.
Thanks for that :)It was just Lex saying you could use more Ram with it.I will leave that out and get a CF Compact flash and one of these 40-Pin CF compact flash card to 3.5 IDE converter adapter PCI bracket or
CF Card to 3.5" IDE Female Adapter, Compact Flash Memory Disk to 40 Pin PC.
Providing the PC works with no problems.
What is your view on Windows Me ?Do you agree with Lex or disagree like most on here?
1653926733134.png

1653926557638.png


If you buy a 1440p, you can do authentic 720p because 1440p scales down to 720p perfectly.


512MB would be solid. 1GB would be better, but that's an upgrade you can do later.
I don,t think much of the case of my new PC.the case is a bit flinsy that side panal i put on here,it does fit snug in there after a bit of straightning it.The rest of the case is fine.:)There is very little inside the case.I just hope that ide cabal reaches the pcie cf unit i intend to put in there.If i bend that corner to much it will snap.
But if all is working how it should be it will be fine.:)

Replace or upgrade IDE to SATA dvd Drive or Hard Drive it seems quite a job well his making a big job of it. o_OAll that master and slave stuff.o_OHe reckons he cleans his Pc ever month i don,t think so ,and all that dust in his place i don,t think he has dusted for years.o_O.
 

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If you buy a 1440p, you can do authentic 720p because 1440p scales down to 720p perfectly.

I never use 720p

I play late-90' / early-00' games in 1280x1024 (or 1024x768) and from 2004 most of my favorite games (FarCry, D3, HL2 etc.) have native 1080p support; for those who don't have it, I fallback to 1280x1024
Regarding mid-90' games (640x480) they really would require a CRT, but since I don't have space for one I simply accept the fact that have to play them "fractionally-upscaled by display scaler" (which is not the end of the world anyways :) )
 
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Thanks for that :)It was just Lex saying you could use more Ram with it.I will leave that out and get a CF Compact flash and one of these 40-Pin CF compact flash card to 3.5 IDE converter adapter PCI bracket or
CF Card to 3.5" IDE Female Adapter, Compact Flash Memory Disk to 40 Pin PC.
Providing the PC works with no problems.
What is your view on Windows Me? Do you agree with Lex or disagree like most on here?
I did like Windows ME, I had good luck with it on my PC in the early 2000's. I ran Need for Speed 3, 4 & 5 and many FPSs on my WinME PC. I know it had its problems, but you can disable things to make it work much better. I seem to remember Hibernate needed to be turned off. Also, System Restore didn't work right & needed to be disabled. Hopefully @lexluthermiester can help with which setting that made ME run its best. It's been so long I don't remember them all. There were only about 5 main tweaks that made ME run really well.
 

stinger608

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Yeah, I don't remember all of the ME tricks either.
I only ran it for a short time and then went to XP.

The one's you mention @68Olds were kind of the same ones I remember LOL.
 
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I never use 720p

I play late-90' / early-00' games in 1280x1024 (or 1024x768) and from 2004 most of my favorite games (FarCry, D3, HL2 etc.) have native 1080p support; for those who don't have it, I fallback to 1280x1024
Regarding mid-90' games (640x480) they really would require a CRT, but since I don't have space for one I simply accept the fact that have to play them "fractionally-upscaled by display scaler" (which is not the end of the world anyways :) )
I abandoned non-widescreen resolutions long ago. Even for classic gaming I use widescreen resolutions, even making the effort to force them on games that didn't originally support widescreen.
 
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Ruru

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NOICE! I'm getting a 290X Matrix soon :love: I can't even say how cheap price :D

(and a 660 as a bundle)
 
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I abandoned non-widescreen resolutions long ago. Even for classic gaming I use widescreen resolutions, even making the effort to force them on games that didn't originally support widescreen.
I'm using 1024x768, 60Hz ... or 800x600, 85Hz. Guaranteed to be compatible with just about any "classic" game ;)
 
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DON'T go with the cheapest ones!! Get name brand and buy the high quality! Seriously!
Is that because the cheapest cards want last as long or because they will fail?
Or that you you prefer to go for a branded card?,The sanDisk ones are mostly refurbished thats what i would go for ,the new ones are far to expensive.
 
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Ruru

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Is that because the cheapest cards want last as long or because they will fail?
Usually the cheap ones have crappier coolers than premium ones.
 
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Usually the cheap ones have crappier coolers than premium ones.
So you are with Lex on this one.Refurbished £20 you can,t go wrong with this one 1 year guarentee.:toast:

SanDisk 32GB CF Extreme Compact Flash Memory Card For Camera 4K Full HD 120MB“refurbished by SanDisk, 30 Days free return, Seller guarantee for 1 year, Excellent Quality”​

1653997796066.png
 

Ruru

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"refurbished", so it's been used, but probably still a working solution. I wonder does CF cards show usage hours like HDDs/SSDs do..
 
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"refurbished", so it's been used, but probably still a working solution. I wonder does CF cards show usage hours like HDDs/SSDs do..
I don,t know ,but i don,t see why not in the Cysrtal Disk mark one that tells you the health of SSD ,s and HDD.Has anyone tried it ?
 

Ruru

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I don,t know ,but i don,t see why not in the Cysrtal Disk mark one that tells you the health of SSD ,s and HDD.Has anyone tried it ?
Didn't you live in UK? There's CEX where's the price of used hardware is cheap :)
 
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Didn't you live in UK? There's CEX where's the price of used hardware is cheap :)
Yes i do ,i did not think of them selling CF Cards ,Thanks for that, they do have some on there. :)There are very few on there just two one 8gb £8 and a 64 gb one for £30 i think a 32gb one will do me.
 
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Ruru

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Yes i do ,i did not think of them selling CF Cards ,Thanks for that, they do have some on there. :)
Yeah, check for it. And in overall it's a great place for ur Brits to get cheap used stuff :)

Steve (RandomGaminginHD) also uses it.
 
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