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worth overclocking 2666mhz cl19 ram for 1080p 75hz monitor?

Joined
Sep 13, 2022
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System Name Xpectra
Processor Intel Core i3 10105F
Motherboard Asrock H470M-HDV
Cooling Cooler Master H410R RGB
Memory Hynix 16GB (2x8) 2666Mhz DDR4 RAM
Video Card(s) Zotac GTX 1050 Ti Mini
Storage EVM 128GB+1TB SSD, 2x BX500 480GB, Seagate 1TB + 2x 500GB
Display(s) LG 22MP68VQ
Case Chiptronex C100
Audio Device(s) F&D F190X
Power Supply Corsair CX550
Mouse Zebronics Uzi
Keyboard TVS EGold Bharat
Software Windows 10 Pro 64-bit 22H2
so i have been facing occasional stuttering in games like spiderman 2 and TLOU2 although graph stays pretty stable throughout it's the 1% lows that can feel jittery at times, though i haven't checked SM2 recently but yesterday after updating DLLs to the latest version (provided on nexusmods) did made game feel smoother and stuttering almost went away. But i was wondering if reducing latency on my ram can benefit me? my mobo support max 2666mhz for my i3 so only thing i can do is to reduce latency, i have hynix CJR and JJR sticks (respectively) both are rated for JEDEC speeds. I have heard JJR is pretty bad at OC but CJR is decent.
 
What are the rest of your pc specs?
 
If they're not matched sticks, probably not. You might get a few percent improvement but it's not going to magically solve all stuttering.

You're better off buying a CPU with more cores I think. If you're on an i3 with DDR4 it's presumably a 6th-10th gen with either 2C/4T or 4C/4T and that's almost certainly where your 1% dips are bottlenecked the hardest.

You should be able to find a 6-core or 8-core on ebay dirt cheap these days. Don't overspend on an old platform but if you can find something compatible for $50-75 it's potentially more appealing than replacing the whole PC.
 
What are the rest of your pc specs?
i3 10105f, 1050 ti. Only things matter i guess.
Rest you can see in the specs drop down.

If they're not matched sticks, probably not. You might get a few percent improvement but it's not going to magically solve all stuttering.

You're better off buying a CPU with more cores I think. If you're on an i3 with DDR4 it's presumably a 6th-10th gen with either 2C/4T or 4C/4T and that's almost certainly where your 1% dips are bottlenecked the hardest.

You should be able to find a 6-core or 8-core on ebay dirt cheap these days. Don't overspend on an old platform but if you can find something compatible for $50-75 it's potentially more appealing than replacing the whole PC.
my cpu is 4c/8t, 10th gen i3. Actually my gpu is the bottleneck in most games, even in CPU intensive titles i never go above 80% usage while my gpu is always sitting at 99%.
 
i3 10105f, 1050 ti. Only things matter i guess.
Rest you can see in the specs drop down.

my cpu is 4c/8t, 10th gen i3. Actually my gpu is the bottleneck in most games, even in CPU intensive titles i never go above 80% usage while my gpu is always sitting at 99%.

Sadly as you probably already know, the GPU is very dated now and even if you had much faster RAM it would make very little to no difference. I used to have a GTX 1050 Ti until 2019 and it was struggling back then too. If I had to use one now I'd probably be using the lowest settings and even going down to 720p in modern games. I upgraded at that time to a 6GB GTX 1660 which was dramatically faster. Maybe you can stretch to getting a cheap GPU upgrade. Your CPU is probably fine, not ideal but if you had to replace just one thing, the GPU would be it.
 
My vote is cpu and faster memory. Should be able to get compatible, used ones for quite cheap (i'd expect less than $100 for both). Gpu would be a good idea too, but it may be a bit more spendy, and you'd need to make sure it doesn't tax your psu to much. should be able to snag a 3050, 6650xt, or 7600 for pretty cheap. Something like that would be a solid upgrade.
 
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Sadly as you probably already know, the GPU is very dated now and even if you had much faster RAM it would make very little to no difference. I used to have a GTX 1050 Ti until 2019 and it was struggling back then too. If I had to use one now I'd probably be using the lowest settings and even going down to 720p in modern games. I upgraded at that time to a 6GB GTX 1660 which was dramatically faster. Maybe you can stretch to getting a cheap GPU upgrade. Your CPU is probably fine, not ideal but if you had to replace just one thing, the GPU would be it.
i probably made the wrong choice by buying budget 1tb ssd for my birthday, i did have a look and there was a used 1060 6gb available for very good price (slightly higher compared to the ssd i bought. Should have given that a shot, half of my space is unused overall and i rarely play that many games. Probably if i can sell the spare pc soon (for which i am barely getting any deals currently), then i might have money to buy that gpu or something even better.
 
i3 10105f, 1050 ti. Only things matter i guess.
Rest you can see in the specs drop down.


my cpu is 4c/8t, 10th gen i3. Actually my gpu is the bottleneck in most games, even in CPU intensive titles i never go above 80% usage while my gpu is always sitting at 99%.
Ooof, that 1050Ti.

CPU running out of cores at 80% is normal, it's because not all threads are full load, but all cores are active and other threads are waiting for half-loaded cores to finish. More cores will help, but your priority is definitely the graphics card, by a wide margin. Your CPU is a little short on core count for modern gaming but it's passable at least. The 1050Ti is not.

If you have $100 for a graphics card, and $100 for a CPU, then 100% change the graphics card. A used 5600XT, GTX1070, or something like that would go a long way to improving your experience. What country are you in?
 
I would've gone for a 2060 Super or RX 6600, or even 2070 Super / 3060 12 GB / RX 6600 XT. That'll make you mostly CPU bound but hey, things will drastically improve overall. And it's not that expensive. Might take a while to save for it but it's worth it.
 
I would've gone for a 2060 Super or RX 6600, or even 2070 Super / 3060 12 GB / RX 6600 XT. That'll make you mostly CPU bound but hey, things will drastically improve overall. And it's not that expensive. Might take a while to save for it but it's worth it.
Yes and no. That's a $200 GPU purchase that's just going to be hamstrung by the quad core, so it's not really worth doing that unless @avidgamer121 can also pick up something like a 10700F or similar to solve the CPU bottleneck as well.

At that point we're talking about sinking $350+ into an old system which I still think is worthwhile but by the sounds of it also several times over budget.

I guess the limitation here is budget which is undetermined until the 'spare pc' get sold.
 
Yes and no. That's a $200 GPU purchase that's just going to be hamstrung by the quad core, so it's not really worth doing that unless @avidgamer121 can also pick up something like a 10700F or similar to solve the CPU bottleneck as well.

At that point we're talking about sinking $350+ into an old system which I still think is worthwhile but by the sounds of it also several times over budget.

I guess the limitation here is budget which is undetermined until the 'spare pc' get sold.

Or a 10400F maybe. I have a 10600, it is still good enough. It was said at the time (2020) that a 10400F would be good enough for gaming for years, and I think that turned out to be good advice.

btw to the OP, I also have a 1080p 75Hz monitor but I run it at 60Hz so I can use vsync and get 60fps. If you're running at 75Hz with vsync on, or at 60Hz with vsync off, then that will potentially be making the GPU work harder, and could also cause stuttering so consider using 60Hz with vsync on perhaps. It might help a little bit.
 
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that's just going to be hamstrung by the quad core
1. It's not THAT bad. 10105F isn't a complete weakling and all cards I mentioned are leagues faster than 1050 Ti and provide good experience but they're not fast enough for 10105F to be a major problem, even at 1080p. Perfectly balanced systems never existed anyway. OP invests in a fast GPU, they get CPU bound. Then they go faster CPU, and we're GPU bound again. It can go indefinitely until we buy the fastest hardware on the planet.
2. In this day and age, an active gamer ideally has a GPU that supports all DX12 features, not only the basic ones.
3. The monetary difference between 1070 and the likes of 2070 is about 100 bucks. Maybe 130. That's a lot relative difference but in the absolute numbers, it's just a hundred bucks. A hundred bucks buying almost double the gaming edge.
 
I would've gone for a 2060 Super or RX 6600, or even 2070 Super / 3060 12 GB / RX 6600 XT. That'll make you mostly CPU bound but hey, things will drastically improve overall. And it's not that expensive. Might take a while to save for it but it's worth it.
6600 has been my dream gpu for quite sometime but can't even afford a used one rn. I have lots of spare stuff to sell but it's getting hard to sell because i expect more than they are worth and buyer lose interest. Next time i will make sure i offer a fair price and not what i personally desire because that way i am only making it harder for myself.
Yes and no. That's a $200 GPU purchase that's just going to be hamstrung by the quad core, so it's not really worth doing that unless @avidgamer121 can also pick up something like a 10700F or similar to solve the CPU bottleneck as well.
many modern 200$ gpu should be fine with my cpu i have seen benchmarks and done bit of research and there's a minimal bottleneck with something like a 3060 or 6600. Quadcores are still relevant because games are still heavily GPU bound.
 
1. It's not THAT bad. 10105F isn't a complete weakling and all cards I mentioned are leagues faster than 1050 Ti and provide good experience but they're not fast enough for 10105F to be a major problem, even at 1080p. Perfectly balanced systems never existed anyway. OP invests in a fast GPU, they get CPU bound. Then they go faster CPU, and we're GPU bound again. It can go indefinitely until we buy the fastest hardware on the planet.
2. In this day and age, an active gamer ideally has a GPU that supports all DX12 features, not only the basic ones.
3. The monetary difference between 1070 and the likes of 2070 is about 100 bucks. Maybe 130. That's a lot relative difference but in the absolute numbers, it's just a hundred bucks. A hundred bucks buying almost double the gaming edge.
Agreed. 10th Gen quad cores are passable, but beyond a certain calibre of GPU you are just going to expose their shortcomings more, which means that unless there's plenty of budget, the CPU will be the leading cause of diminishing returns.

Where the sweet spot GPU is for a 10th gen i3 depends a lot on which games are being played but my own experience with quad cores and RT-capable GPUs is that raytracing simply isn't going to happen at all, so paying the premium for an RTX 20-series/RX6000 cards makes them poor value for non-raytracing performance compared to used market deals on the previous RX 5000-series and GTX 10/16 series. Driver support has long-since sailed for older cards, but that's also true of anything below about $200 these days.

Budget and location are really mandatory to make further suggestions, but since the i3 10th gen isn't absolutely awful, there's merit in buying just enough GPU to feed it at the lowest possible price and going no further. By the time that starts to struggle, it's either going to be "whole new PC" time, or time to drop the fastest supported CPU into that old system and finding an appropriate GPU to match it.
 
so i have been facing occasional stuttering in games like spiderman 2 and TLOU2 although graph stays pretty stable throughout it's the 1% lows that can feel jittery at times, though i haven't checked SM2 recently but yesterday after updating DLLs to the latest version (provided on nexusmods) did made game feel smoother and stuttering almost went away. But i was wondering if reducing latency on my ram can benefit me? my mobo support max 2666mhz for my i3 so only thing i can do is to reduce latency, i have hynix CJR and JJR sticks (respectively) both are rated for JEDEC speeds. I have heard JJR is pretty bad at OC but CJR is decent.
If you use fsr performance you may get improvement in some games. Cjr and jjr can run okay timings at 2666.
I would try 1.4v
cl 12 rcd 14 rp 14 ras 26 rc 40
Rrds 4 rrdl 6 faw 16
Wtrs 4 wtrl 12
Rfc 360
Wr 16
Rtp 8
Cwl 16
Rdwr 7 Wrrd 1
rest on auto

A used 2060, 3060 etc like other mention is a worthy upgrade :)
 
many modern 200$ gpu should be fine with my cpu i have seen benchmarks and done bit of research and there's a minimal bottleneck with something like a 3060 or 6600. Quadcores are still relevant because games are still heavily GPU bound.
Depends entirely on the games you're playing. I upgraded from a quad core 6700K to a Ryzen 5 3600 in 2019 because Path of Exile was a stutterfest on the quad core. Friends still on quad cores were struggling with Factorio multiplayer, Path of Exile, and some single-player stuff like Cyberpunk.

You started this thread with complaints about stuttering. Quad cores with fast, modern graphics cards can still turn in some very decent "average FPS" scores, but their 0.1% lows will be terrible in games that use more than 4 threads. That's the inconsistent hitching and stuttering that you hated enough to make you start this forum thread ;)
 
i probably made the wrong choice by buying budget 1tb ssd for my birthday,
I don't agree - unless this new 1TB SSD is a basic SATA drive you swapped in to replace a fast M.2 NVME PCIe drive - and I doubt you did that. Even the slowest SSD will run circles around the fastest hard drive - even hybrid hard drives. With a decent CPU and a big chunk of RAM, drive performance become much less important.

10105F isn't a complete weakling
Well, close to it, unfortunately.

I think you should concentrate your research and budget on a new CPU first. As i3's go, well, the i3-10105F is not among the better i3's for gaming. In fact, TechReviewer said the 10105F over all is "mediocre" for game performance - except for single-core turbo performance on graphics-intensive games (with a high end cooler). But other categories were rated as poor and mediocre. :( Other reviews are similar.

But of course, it is not an expensive CPU either so the above can't really be held as criticisms as the expectations should not be high.

In any case, if me, I would go for a better CPU first. So I suggest you start by reviewing your motherboard's CPU Support List and find a decent i5 within your budget.

After that, since your board only has 2 RAM slots, maybe consider replacing your current 2 x 8GB of RAM with 2 x 16GB for 32GB total. Replacing your RAM most likely will cost you less than replacing your graphics solution.

And to that, your graphics card is a decent card - for its age. But it is getting old. HOWEVER I have two concerns when it comes to upgrading your card. (1) That is a mini card. Why? Looking at the specs of the Chiptronex C100, it is a mid-tower case that should support standard size cards. So why buy a mini? Does that motherboard restrict size? So do. Do your homework. You don't want to buy a new card that will not physically fit.

And (2), since graphics cards are often the most power hungry components in our computers, it is often necessary to up the power supply to support a new card. 550W would support many larger cards, and while Corsair does make some great PSUs, their CX line is their entry-level budget line. If this were me and I was going to upgrade my CPU and graphics, I would upgrade to a better and bigger PSU too. Perhaps a 650W Gold from a reputable maker.
 
->This will depend on how much money you intend to spend and when you intend to spend it.
Best usage of the fora here would probably be if you could supply. a "roadmap" and a "budget" and then you would be able to harness more knowledge and less it depends on if's and but's.

With that disclaimer, here is my opinion:
1)Best improvement would be a faster GPU (unless startegy games), one that will not force you to swap out other components.
If you intend to upgrade more soon, it won't matter if it is a bit CPU limited.
2) Second short term upgrade would be the CPU, unless you play games like CIV an Stellaris, then this would be No 1 on the list.

Also make sure your GPU doesn't throttle on TEMP and if possible to OC the GPU and the VRAM do so.
RAM OC at your current state would be something worth it just for synthetic, fun and learning (imho).
 
I would try 1.4v
cl 12 rcd 14 rp 14 ras 26 rc 40
Rrds 4 rrdl 6 faw 16
Wtrs 4 wtrl 12
Rfc 360
Wr 16
Rtp 8
Cwl 16
Rdwr 7 Wrrd 1
rest on auto
those are some really aggressive numbers, especially the voltage, it sounds a bit dangerous to me, i honestly wouldn't go above 1.35v

And to that, your graphics card is a decent card - for its age. But it is getting old. HOWEVER I have two concerns when it comes to upgrading your card. (1) That is a mini card. Why? Looking at the specs of the Chiptronex C100, it is a mid-tower case that should support standard size cards. So why buy a mini? Does that motherboard restrict size? So do. Do your homework. You don't want to buy a new card that will not physically fit.
physical fit is not an issue, it can fit relatively decent size dual fan cards but due to being budget constraint and more due to the priorities my brother bought me a budget card, he got it used last year for 36$ which was a pretty decent deal considering 1050 ti usually go around 50+ here.

And (2), since graphics cards are often the most power hungry components in our computers, it is often necessary to up the power supply to support a new card. 550W would support many larger cards, and while Corsair does make some great PSUs, their CX line is their entry-level budget line. If this were me and I was going to upgrade my CPU and graphics, I would upgrade to a better and bigger PSU too. Perhaps a 650W Gold from a reputable maker.
i have the newer CX series black label released in 2023, i bought this unit last and heard it is much improved. I have also heard about a guy in a discord server running cx550 with a 1080 and 3600 for 5 years just fine.
 
those are some really aggressive numbers, especially the voltage, it sounds a bit dangerous to me, i honestly wouldn't go above 1.35v


physical fit is not an issue, it can fit relatively decent size dual fan cards but due to being budget constraint and more due to the priorities my brother bought me a budget card, he got it used last year for 36$ which was a pretty decent deal considering 1050 ti usually go around 50+ here.


i have the newer CX series black label released in 2023, i bought this unit last and heard it is much improved. I have also heard about a guy in a discord server running cx550 with a 1080 and 3600 for 5 years just fine.
I have tuned several CJR kits. JJR should be slightly worse, but doable. 1.4v should be safe, but 1.35v may work fine aswell. CJR tends to do 3800 at cl16-17 and rcd/rp at 19-21 and rfc at 470-510.
 
raytracing
RTX GPUs aren't only good for ray tracing, they also support DLSS. A crucial part of low budget PC gaming. I know, at 1080p it's not even close to ideal but it's better than nothing.
As i3's go, well, the i3-10105F is not among the better i3's for gaming. In fact, TechReviewer said the 10105F over all is "mediocre" for game performance - except for single-core turbo performance on graphics-intensive games (with a high end cooler). But other categories were rated as poor and mediocre. :( Other reviews are similar.
And I have a weaker CPU in one of my work PCs. i7-6700. It's not enough to release the full potential of my RX 6700 XT but it's quite a contender considering how ancient it is. For example, I had almost flawless experience playing Cyberpunk 2077 on that machine. 1440p High, XeSS UQ. 50 to 85 FPS depending on a location. Sure, not ideal but playable.
Having 500 or 600 MHz more, 10105 is gonna be enough for 60 FPS gaming in basically everything pre-2020 and most games of 2020s.

I don't see any problem in upgrading the GPU first and pushing it beyond pre-DX12_2 solutions.
 
physical fit is not an issue

he got it used last year for 36$ which was a pretty decent deal
Good. Just making sure on the fit. And you are right, that was a decent deal.

i have the newer CX series black label released in 2023, i bought this unit last and heard it is much improved. I have also heard about a guy in a discord server running cx550 with a 1080 and 3600 for 5 years just fine.
Not really the point I was trying to make. It is not about longevity. I have seem some very budget generic OEM PSUs last 10 years or longer. But those were in basic office computers that never were really tasked with any demanding jobs.

At the same time, I have seen top-of-the-line models from the best makers fail after just a couple months of use.

One point I was making was about the quality of the power the supply provides to your components. Most people would not buy a brand new Porsche then fill it with fuel from the corner Tobacco and Bait shop. Since EVERYTHING inside the computer case depends on good, clean stable power, we need to ensure we are providing it. The CX Series is still their budget line.

But my main point was the size of the PSU. Again, you need to do your homework before buying a new graphics card - especially if considering a new CPU too. 550W is not tiny but not very big either.

If big enough, up to you whether you want to upgrade. If a bigger supply would be better, I do NOT recommend going out and buying an expensive new top-tier Platinum or Titanium PSU. But a decent Gold would be good and affordable.

And I have a weaker CPU in one of my work PCs. i7-6700.
??? I don't see your point. This isn't about comparing a 4 year old i3 with a 10 year old i7 that is not even compatible with his motherboard. So I see no point in you bringing it up.

And of course, "playable" is a relative term.
 
Good. Just making sure on the fit. And you are right, that was a decent deal.

Not really the point I was trying to make. It is not about longevity. I have seem some very budget generic OEM PSUs last 10 years or longer. But those were in basic office computers that never were really tasked with any demanding jobs.

At the same time, I have seen top-of-the-line models from the best makers fail after just a couple months of use.

One point I was making was about the quality of the power the supply provides to your components. Most people would not buy a brand new Porsche then fill it with fuel from the corner Tobacco and Bait shop. Since EVERYTHING inside the computer case depends on good, clean stable power, we need to ensure we are providing it. The CX Series is still their budget line.

But my main point was the size of the PSU. Again, you need to do your homework before buying a new graphics card - especially if considering a new CPU too. 550W is not tiny but not very big either.

If big enough, up to you whether you want to upgrade. If a bigger supply would be better, I do NOT recommend going out and buying an expensive new top-tier Platinum or Titanium PSU. But a decent Gold would be good and affordable.


??? I don't see your point. This isn't about comparing a 4 year old i3 with a 10 year old i7 that is not even compatible with his motherboard. So I see no point in you bringing it up.

And of course, "playable" is a relative term.

Obviously the 6th gen i7 is very comparable to the 10th gen i3, that's why. In fact all Intels from 6th to 10th gen are essentially identical, Skylake to Comet Lake have the same IPC.

In fact you can go back even further and there isn't a lot of difference in performance. I had an i7-4790K before I built my current system in 2020 with an i5-10600 which is essentially an i7-8700. Despite being years and six gens newer, there isn't much subjective difference, the old i7 was a strong performer and there are still people using that even now. We know it's not ideal but if you're on a tight budget, this sort of thing will do. tl;dr - his CPU (and PSU) is okay.
 
their CX line is their entry-level budget line.
i have the newer CX series black label released in 2023,

Just an FYI, corsair's PSU line up is always fluid but technically the "VS" is the entry level budget line
the current Corsair CX (there have been several versions to varying performance) units are rated for 40c, use a LLC resonant converter (unlike the CX-M line), hit Cybenetics Silver efficiency and have proper safety set up
I personally use them as the basic recommendation for a budget unit that gives you solid performance when people are strapped for cash. In terms of performance, nothing special but nothing that would be dangerous either as they have come out with solid reviews in Tom's, TPU, HB, etc.,

I would consider the CX-M line (or equivalents) the Mario Mendoza (you can google him) of PSU for gaming
 
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