Mad Catz M.O.J.O. M1 Review 1

Mad Catz M.O.J.O. M1 Review

Sensor & Performance »

Build Quality

Overall build quality is solid. When applying lateral pressure, only some minor creaking, but no flexing of the shell can be observed, and activating the side buttons by squeezing the sides isn't possible. However, the side buttons are completely loose, which has them rattle audibly when shaking the mouse. Lastly, no accidental clicks occur when slamming down the mouse.

Buttons


Main buttons on the M.O.J.O. M1 are very good. The left click in particular has some pre-travel, but post-travel is uniformly low, resulting in a firm and satisfying click response. Click feel is great—very snappy and crisp. While the buttons are separated from the shell, lateral button movement is barely present. Button stiffness is light. A pair of Zippy DF3-P1 switches is used.


Side buttons are poor. Post-travel is fairly low and click feel is quite nice, but the buttons themselves are completely loose, which has them feel flimsy and lacking in feedback. The forward button in particular also suffers from huge pre-travel. Button placement and size is good as actuation is possible quite easily by rolling one's thumb across. A set of seemingly unbranded tactile switches is used for these.

At the top of the mouse is a single button for cycling through the CPI steps. Its click feel is good. I'm unable to identify the brand of this switch.

Scroll Wheel


The scroll wheel is excellent. Neither scrolling up nor down produces much noise, and the individual steps are very well defined, resulting in great tactility. The encoder comes from Kailh. The middle (scroll wheel) click requires high force for actuation. Another one of the unknown switches is used here.

Coating

The M.O.J.O. M1 has a matte surface all over. It doesn't attract fingerprints, dirt, or the likes too much. It's easy to clean, and there are no signs of wear left after doing so. All in all, excellent materials.

Button Sound Test


Disassembly


Disassembling the M.O.J.O. M1 is very easy. Remove the four main skates and the screws beneath them and the top shell comes off. Everything sits on a single PCB, including the side-button switches, which are mounted vertically. Four screws are used to affix the PCB to the bottom shell, and the PCB is fairly thin to keep the weight down. The MCU is a Sonix 32F265J, whose datasheet can be found here.


As for the soldering and general quality of the PCBs, I'm unable to find any noteworthy flaws.
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Nov 25th, 2024 20:44 EST change timezone

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