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What's an inexpensive AIO product line with a strong pump and low price?

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Angles of 90 degrees reduce the water flow, and the more they are, the more restricted the water flow becomes.
Regarding the pumps, I have been using Chinese ones for over 8 years and have replaced several of them. The $3-6 one dies in 1-2 years, the $12-25 one lasts 2-4-6 years.
Yes, they are a little more noisy.
I've never metered my flow because the temps are good.

So I just want to mention that if @TPCEA want cheap pumps - there are.
Of course, I'm using a (very :D) custom loop, but that's another story :)
 
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I don't know what proprietary connector you are talking about. I have two NZXT cases and they appear to follow industry standards (both are mini-ITX size). The main thing I dislike about the H1 V2 is their use a proprietary fan controller that requires NZXT CAM software. That's a bummer mostly because NZXT CAM is junkware (something that they could conceivably fix in the future but I'm not holding my breath).

Otherwise all of the little cables and connectors fit into their respective places on a standard mini-ITX motherboard.
I'm not talking about everything - it's about the fan and (especially) ARGB connectors that are non-standard, and you either have to custom-make an adapter or buy their hubs.
 
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I'm not talking about everything - it's about the fan and (especially) ARGB connectors that are non-standard, and you either have to custom-make an adapter or buy their hubs.
I don't know anything about that. The NZXT fan controller in the H1 V2 plugs into the one motherboard fan header and one motherboard USB connector. There are no proprietary connectors in the H1 V2. I don't know if the fan hub itself has proprietary connections however it's all pre-wired and not intended to be modified by the end user. However the cables provided to the end user have standard connectors.

The H210 (another case I own) also has no proprietary connectors. It's just a metal shell with the typical front panel connector wires (power, power LED, USB ports, etc.). The H210 shipped with a standard 120mm fan that plugs into a standard fan header on a standard motherboard.

Not sure again which connectors you're talking about. Maybe you could post a photo of it someday.
 
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I don't know anything about that. The NZXT fan controller in the H1 V2 plugs into the one motherboard fan header and one motherboard USB connector. There are no proprietary connectors in the H1 V2. I don't know if the fan hub itself has proprietary connections however it's all pre-wired and not intended to be modified by the end user. However the cables provided to the end user have standard connectors.

The H210 (another case I own) also has no proprietary connectors. It's just a metal shell with the typical front panel connector wires (power, power LED, USB ports, etc.). The H210 shipped with a standard 120mm fan that plugs into a standard fan header on a standard motherboard.

Not sure again which connectors you're talking about. Maybe you could post a photo of it someday.
The connectors are called (very originally) NZXT connectors and are AFAIK just for ARGB. New cases and fans with LEDs (including decorative LED strips) use this annoying trap. If you look at these, I believe they all have that connector.
F120 RGB Core RF-C12SF-W1
F120 RGB Duo RF-D12SF-W1
F120 RGB White Fan RF-R12TF-W1
F140 RGB RF-R14SF-B1
F140P RF-P14SF-W1
I'm pretty sure someone showed me that the solution to bypass this stupidness is with a resistor inline with one of the wires, but I don't recall the details.
Here's one of the images presented, but I think it's for an older ARGB scheme.
1713891996569.jpeg


I think this is the current one.
1713892041651.png

Credit to thrasher_565 on LTT Forum for these.
 
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Yah, there's not a lot of standardization in RGB connectors on the lighting products themselves although the motherboard connectors have been widely adopted.

I've only used very minimal amounts of RGB lighting in my builds so I certainly haven't experienced the breadth of RGB mania that others here have. I have not used any of the NZXT lighting products.

Anyhow it's best if I bow out of this conversation right here.

Good luck with your quest to find that "inexpensive-aio-product-line-with-a-strong-pump-and-low-price" unicorn!
 
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Yah, there's not a lot of standardization in RGB connectors on the lighting products themselves although the motherboard connectors have been widely adopted.

I've only used very minimal amounts of RGB lighting in my builds so I certainly haven't experienced the breadth of RGB mania that others here have. I have not used any of the NZXT lighting products.

Anyhow it's best if I bow out of this conversation right here.

Good luck with your quest to find that "inexpensive-aio-product-line-with-a-strong-pump-and-low-price" unicorn!
LOL! I'm going to have to postpone the search anyways as my financial situation is just not going to tolerate spending hundreds on a product line.
 
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As daily PC builder as my main job for years I'd say go for AIO :
Deepcool ( prices & availability depend on your local market )
Arctic Liquid Freezer II & III ( III got some nice features )
 
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I have a DeepCool LT720 360mm AIO that's worked really well for me.
 
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Amazon has forced me into a medical leave of absence, claiming there's nothing at work that I can do. This means I have no income until and unless some progress is made, so all new purchases are on hold indefinitely. I just hope that I'll be able to pay the rent next month!
 
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Amazon has forced me into a medical leave of absence, claiming there's nothing at work that I can do. This means I have no income until and unless some progress is made, so all new purchases are on hold indefinitely. I just hope that I'll be able to pay the rent next month!
Sorry to hear man, it's definitely tough times. Hope you can get back on your feet soon!
 
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Sorry to hear man, it's definitely tough times. Hope you can get back on your feet soon!
Thanks, me too! I'm feeling a bit stressed. Hopefully, my tax return will come back before I get into trouble and if Amazon and Sedgwick screw me over it'll definitely be important to get because it'll give me at least a couple more months.
 
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Thanks, me too! I'm feeling a bit stressed. Hopefully, my tax return will come back before I get into trouble and if Amazon and Sedgwick screw me over it'll definitely be important to get because it'll give me at least a couple more months.
At least you have that coming in hopefully soon. You can check online, make sure all is good.
 
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Currently using a Thermalright frozen magic 360, able to cool my 13900KS at about 320w indefinitely. For the price I'd say it's a very good deal. Performed better than my NZXT X73 which it replaced.
 
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Currently using a Thermalright frozen magic 360, able to cool my 13900KS at about 320w indefinitely. For the price I'd say it's a very good deal. Performed better than my NZXT X73 which it replaced.
And it's slightly better than the Notte, if you're referring to the Frozen Magic Scenic V2. I just finished testing and reviewing the Notte and, aside from the pump being too close to the rad, and the AIO not being servicable (the only one I could find from TR that is is the Turbo Right and it is very hard to find and at least $150).

Definitely the best deal if you can get it for a low price. It's about $111 in India, I noticed. The Magic is $50 here in the USA.
 
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And it's slightly better than the Notte, if you're referring to the Frozen Magic Scenic V2. I just finished testing and reviewing the Notte and, aside from the pump being too close to the rad, and the AIO not being servicable (the only one I could find from TR that is is the Turbo Right and it is very hard to find and at least $150).

Definitely the best deal if you can get it for a low price. It's about $111 in India, I noticed. The Magic is $50 here in the USA.
Yeah, for the price it's hard to beat, and I'm not gonna be paying 1-200 more for a couple of degrees drop. *sigh* New zealand prices are awful
 

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Inexpensive liquid cooling?

You're better off with air.
Custom loop is somewhat inexpensive when you think that most parts will last for years. I've had my gear for ~6 years, only the pump had to replaced as I broke it accidentally by running it dry. :D
 
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Custom loop is somewhat inexpensive when you think that most parts will last for years. I've had my gear for ~6 years, only the pump had to replaced as I broke it accidentally by running it dry. :D
You have me curious - how?
 

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You have me curious - how?
I mean, in a long run. Just replace the broken part (usually pump) and do some maintenance from time to time, radiators and blocks are practically eternal. :toast:
 
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I mean, in a long run. Just replace the broken part (usually pump) and do some maintenance from time to time, radiators and blocks are practically eternal. :toast:
Sorry, I meant how did you fry your pump? Did you have a leak? Highly porous tubes that finally resulted in way too much air in the loop? The pump was at the top of the loop? The pump was running on a curve? Something else?
 

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Sorry, I meant how did you fry your pump? Did you have a leak? Highly porous tubes that finally resulted in way too much air in the loop? The pump was at the top of the loop? The pump was running on a curve? Something else?
Just ran a while dry when filling the loop :laugh:
 
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Just ran a while dry when filling the loop :laugh:
"A while"? That must've been quite a while but, actually, this information is pertinent to a conversation I'm having with a very stubborn person who doesn't believe it's possible to damage the pump by letting it run dry. How long would you estimate?
 
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"A while"? That must've been quite a while but, actually, this information is pertinent to a conversation I'm having with a very stubborn person who doesn't believe it's possible to damage the pump by letting it run dry. How long would you estimate?
I've had pumps run dry, not on purpose but it's literally like 1-2 seconds, never longer. No issues, thank god!
 
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Just ran a while dry when filling the loop :laugh:
Please let me know, L.

Custom loop using an air cooler encased in a water box.

Air-cooling a CPU water block LOL! Not practical since you need an air compressor and you need something to stabilize the pressure. What could he have done instead of ice in the bucket of water? LOL!
@gendragongfly on YT suggested:
You don't need the ice, let the air do the work. All you need is expansion. First the air is compressed in a compressor, that heats it up. Leave it in a tank for a while to cool it down. Then pump it into a waterblock (at high pressure, 70 psi or so should do it). Make sure that the waterblock has a tiny pinhole in the part you want to get cool. (If the hole is small enough you won't hear it hiss because its frequency is ultrasonic). The expansion of the air coming out of the hole will cool your CPU to sub ambient

And then there's Waterwetter coolant...
 
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