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How to quickly & easily fix coil-whine(coil choke noise)

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Jul 11, 2022
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No worries. Below is the same photo, but highlighted.
View attachment 282802
The ones in Red are the most likely culprits. The HCIs in Yellow might also be the culprits. Again, I recommend doing them all in one go.


Seeing this picture it has multiple spots of inductors so close to each other in red the L1R5 and LR22. How would you get the super glue wicked to the bottom edges of the parts where these chokes face each other.

My PNY I am going to try just has this on the 2 LR22 though.

How did you do it Lex? Did you just let it run down the gaps or did you have a needle sized syringe or stuck forced into the housing of the HFT super glue?

Again not asking for card recommendation as I know that is not what you are here for, just how you got the Super glue between the LR22 inductors on this card and PNY or any other cards that have inductors like this and PNY LR22?
 
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28,279 (6.75/day)
Reading all of this again you mention it is important to wick entire edge of the choke? What does that mean?
What he means is that you want glue all around the point where the coils touch the PCB. The "edge" he refers to are the bottom edges of the coil, the ones that are in contact (or just above) the PCB.
This, exactly.
Seeing this picture it has multiple spots of inductors so close to each other in red the L1R5 and LR22. How would you get the super glue wicked to the bottom edges of the parts where these chokes face each other.
This is where the glue type is important as the wicking action will work the glue into that small space naturally. You need to put the nozzle in the space between the coils at the PCB and gently squeeze enough for the glue to spread out along the joints. Pay careful attention to how much is coming out. When you see the glue wicking out the other side, you can stop and can continue wicking around the edge on the other side.
See illustrations;

PNY4090-02.jpg


PNY4090-03.jpg

Photo's credit to @W1zzard in his review linked below.
 
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Brothanumsie

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Joined just for this thread. First let me just say thank you, as this may be the godsend that i needed. I bought a 6950 Liquid Red Devil for a great price but its in an open case and the whine is godawful. I can undervolt and it does help but still not gonna cut it. I went with this glue because of the applicator - Super Glue

Did i mark down the right ones to glue?
6950.jpeg


Ill start the mod this evening. 2 hours should be enough to cure, correct?
 
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This, exactly.

This is where the glue type is important as the wicking action will work the glue into that small space naturally. You need to put the nozzle in the space between the coils at the PCB and gently squeeze enough for the glue to spread out along the joints. Pay careful attention to how much is coming out. When you see the glue wicking out the other side, you can stop and can continue wicking around the edge on the other side.
OK so basically out the nozzle between the space I have circled in dark red? And by saying when you see glue wicking out other side, you mean the sides on the PCB between the spaces of the chokes where I drew a dark red line on the left and right side? Meaning I see a bit of liquid leak to the sides where I drew those dark red lines?

Thanks so much again for all your help.

And sorry for irritating you about asking for card recommendation I know there are no guarantees any of this works or how well. Just trying to do the best I can and hope it works very well.
 

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28,279 (6.75/day)
I went with this glue because of the applicator - Super Glue
That looks like a surprisingly good brand. Might have to try it myself.
Did i mark down the right ones to glue?
Yup, those are the ones. Let us know how it goes. Haven't done too many Radeon cards as of late and am curious.

OK so basically out the nozzle between the space I have circled in dark red?
See the photo's I highlighted above.
And by saying when you see glue wicking out other side, you mean the sides on the PCB between the spaces of the chokes where I drew a dark red line on the left and right side? Meaning I see a bit of liquid leak to the sides where I drew those dark red lines?
Yes. But be careful not to squeeze out too much glue. Do it slowly, you'll see when you've got enough.
And sorry for irritating you about asking for card recommendation
It's all good. For a moment it started to seem like a professional trolling effort to sabotage the tread. I've seen it before. But no worries.
 
Joined
Jul 11, 2022
Messages
375 (0.42/day)
This, exactly.

This is where the glue type is important as the wicking action will work the glue into that small space naturally. You need to put the nozzle in the space between the coils at the PCB and gently squeeze enough for the glue to spread out along the joints. Pay careful attention to how much is coming out. When you see the glue wicking out the other side, you can stop and can continue wicking around the edge on the other side.
See illustrations;

View attachment 286114

View attachment 286115
Photo's credit to @W1zzard in his review linked below.

Does the nozzle another words need to be small enough to fit all the way between the 2 chokes so it can touch the PCB?
 

pinksocking

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has anyone had success on an msi 4090?

the noise is driving me gidksngisdhgn insane

+ have photos of how the glue should look when applied?

i've likely opened hundreds of cards to reapply thermal paste and replace pads so i'm very comfortable with the process of opening em up but would like to see an example heh :D
 
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No, it just needs to be as close to the joint area as possible.


Based on phots and your red arrows, I should try and put the glue on bottom of PCB near joint area and let it wick in rather than the top of joint area? And if so should I tip PCB so the liquid glue flows downward into the joints faster until it comes out other side then flip it upright and level surface flat?
 

Brothanumsie

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That looks like a surprisingly good brand. Might have to try it myself.
Quick update. This stuff is THIN. Might as well be water. A drop on one side and I can see it follow through the bottom and out the other side. May have used too much… or maybe too little… I have no clue. Hope glue doesn’t hurt anything next to these chokes
 

pinksocking

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Based on phots and your red arrows, I should try and put the glue on bottom of PCB near joint area and let it wick in rather than the top of joint area? And if so should I tip PCB so the liquid glue flows downward into the joints faster until it comes out other side then flip it upright and level surface flat?
Quick update. This stuff is THIN. Might as well be water. A drop on one side and I can see it follow through the bottom and out the other side. May have used too much… or maybe too little… I have no clue. Hope glue doesn’t hurt anything next to these chokes
can you take some photos of your application of the glue?
 
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Also this is the glue I got from Harbor Freight.

Each pack has like a metal/aluminum covering over it. Is there a specific way to open it or is just poking a hole good enough even if there is metal left on the side. As it is hard to open without poking a hole and you of course cannot tear off the aluminum/metal closings completely without of course dousing your hands in some super glue.

There is no risk of the metal/aluminum coating getting into the super glue is there?
 

stama

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If these tubes are like those of medical ointments, then that's how you open it.

The tube plastic cap might have a puncture tip on its top, just like medical ointment tubes, that you can use to pierce the tube seal, btw. That's the purpose of that pointy tip.
1677797277420.png
 
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28,279 (6.75/day)
Based on phots and your red arrows, I should try and put the glue on bottom of PCB near joint area and let it wick in rather than the top of joint area?
Exactly, yes.
And if so should I tip PCB so the liquid glue flows downward into the joints faster until it comes out other side then flip it upright and level surface flat?
That might help, but not too much as you don't want the glue to run all over the PCB.

I tried. You really cant see where its at. The pcb is a little darker, thats about it.

Edit: I tried
View attachment 286127
That looks about right. That's enough to completely seal the gaps and be strong enough not to break loose. That's a well done application!

There is no risk of the metal/aluminum coating getting into the super glue is there?
No, aluminum always naturally creates a coating of aluminum-oxide when exposed to air. The glue never actually comes in contact with the bare aluminum.
 
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Is it possible to use too much glue other than the risk of it running to unwanted areas that could screw something up.

Like can too much ruin the process of silencing whine or even cause coil whine to be worse?

Here is my application for the PNY XLR8 4090.

I did best I build. It's amazing how many chokes you cannot directly access even with small rip. Not just LR22 ones or the black ones close together. There are IC in the way om some.

For those I just did best I could be getting liquid to come out of seals or on edge and puddle big enough if you could see to cover all edges of chokes. I think I got them all though some overflow on many though I think that is ok unless it was super excessive like glue all over PCB. There is no where near that buy definitely some that touched edges of capacitors and ICs or RAM chips. Is that ok?

Anyways letting it dry now. I really hope this works.

Here are pictures though may be very hard to see.
 

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Joined
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28,279 (6.75/day)
Is it possible to use too much glue other than the risk of it running to unwanted areas that could screw something up.

Like can too much ruin the process of silencing whine or even cause coil whine to be worse?

Here is my application for the PNY XLR8 4090.

I did best I build. It's amazing how many chokes you cannot directly access even with small rip. Not just LR22 ones or the black ones close together. There are IC in the way om some.

For those I just did best I could be getting liquid to come out of seals or on edge and puddle big enough if you could see to cover all edges of chokes. I think I got them all though some overflow on many though I think that is ok unless it was super excessive like glue all over PCB. There is no where near that buy definitely some that touched edges of capacitors and ICs or RAM chips. Is that ok?

Anyways letting it dry now. I really hope this works.

Here are pictures though may be very hard to see.
You used a bit much, but it'll be ok. What was the result after you put it all back together?
 
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You used a bit much, but it'll be ok. What was the result after you put it all back together?

I am letting it dry still. I have not put it back together get.

What happens if you use a bit too much. Is there any risk?

I am going to let it dry at least 24 hours or more before putting it back together. Perhaps will wait 72 hours.
 
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Brothanumsie

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Welp, looks like its might not even be coil whine im hearing. If it is, looks like this method didnt help my situation. Can someone take a listen and see if they recognize it? This clip is from about 3 feet away.

6950

Thats Heaven loaded up. And for some reason, whenever i quit and the credits show, the pitch gets even higher and louder until the app is closed all the way.
 
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stama

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You do have some high frequency content in the file though it all stops at 16KHz due to your recording setup, and there are no peaks, it's pretty plain across the entire spectrum.
1677851596398.png

1677851682702.png

Can you hear the issue that you are experiencing when you try to play your sample?

Here's how coil whine noise tends to look like:
1677852204621.png

1677851823529.png

1677851982871.png


Don't encode your sample as a MP3 file, try FLAC.
 
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stama

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Use Audacity to record the audio, and then File -> Export -> Export Audio -> pick FLAC.

You can view the spectrogram by clicking on track pull-down menu and picking the option from it:
1677853412321.png
 
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