How to quickly & easily fix coil-whine(coil choke noise)

[Jonbee.603]

After curing and reassembly, I can confirm that I cannot hear the noise unless I remove the PC door and put my ear directly up to the GPU. I would say this was a raging success!

 

[Nokami]

I want to get rid or at least dampen my coil whine on a Z690-A MB and my 7900 XT.

Are green, blue, and violet ones the only I need to seal with super glue for the MB?

All red ones are correct for the GPU?



The Glue I want to use is Click Here for Store Link is this alright?

 

[Jonbee.603]

You got the most probable offenders, it really depends where the noise is coming from, maybe you should put a cone up to your gpu while its making the noise to see which side is the problem.

Or you could glue all of the things i circled. You missed one on the right side row of red. The orange ones are more likely to make noise and the yellow are less likely. The smaller ones probably dont make the biggest noise, but they still could make some from what ive understood from this thread. I ended up just gluing all the possible things I could and my temps maybe rose 3-4 degrees, so if heat is not a huge concern for you id go for it. Atleast you wont have to do it twice.

And obviously avoid gluing over stuff that comes in contact with thermal pads; super glue is not a conductor, but it would insulate your chip from the heat transferrance of the thermal pad.

 

[Nokami]

And obviously avoid gluing over stuff that comes in contact with thermal pads; super glue is not a conductor, but it would insulate your chip from the heat transferrance of the thermal pad.

I would just go around each of them and glue them, not on top of them. That should be alright then, even if they have contact to the thermal pads I think. Will update with the results, got separately a new PSU (RM1000x Shift) to test things.

 

[zoltan]

Hi guys!

I only registered to here because of this forum!

This is my full PC config:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GlFxIpayBNK8FPOGMhgZaHsocx2I0AAjlsQVO9qrDzc/edit

I have an Intel Arc A770 16GB LE video card. My CPU is water-cooled, but today I decided to water-cool my GPU as well.

Currently, I have disassembled the GPU, and I can see the raw PCB. This GPU has some coil whine, but I know a few solutions, such as: (this is not always working)

1. Undervolt the GPU.
2. Turn on V-Sync.
3. Limit the FPS to 60.
4. Limit the power

However, I am seeking a permanent solution. My problem is that I don't know which inductors are causing the most coil whine or what is the most effective ways to dampen the vibration. I have included a picture. My theory is that the red ones are causing the majority of the coil whine, especially the two near the power connector. My plan is as follows:

1. Apply RTV low viscosity silicone to the inductors (all). Like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...order_list.order_list_main.290.21ef1802T9JEa8 (200g Soft transparent)
2. The inductors are SMD type. Perhaps I can attempt to grind the top of the inductor and then apply the silicone. I have ordered some sample inductors on the internet where I can practice. However, this is VERY risky, and I am hesitant to proceed with this method. Also I can't order the exact same type because I don't have a company and they will don't sell it to me. Currently, I'm trying to find in the internet a broken A770 card so I can get a close look at the inductors.
3. Add ferrite beads to the PCI-E power cable???
4. Put the PCB into a vacuum chamber (I created one) so that the silicone can potentially penetrate the inductor. However, I am unsure whether the bottom of the inductor is open or not....
5. Solder out the inductors and replace it with a quality ones. However, I can't download the datasheet for the current ones, so I don't know which inductors I can replace them with.
6. Also put thermal pads on top of the inductors so they will be attached to the GPU water-cooling block and reduce the vibrations.

My questions:

1. Is that silicone is good?
2. Can I do silicone potting with the full inductor?
3. Somebody tried to grind the top of the inductors?
4. Ferrite beads can work?

Before I apply the silicone, I would appreciate your thoughts on my plan Is that silicone is good? Can this work?

Best regards,
Zoltán

 

[Count von Schwalbe]

Apply RTV low viscosity silicone to the inductors (all). Like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...order_list.order_list_main.290.21ef1802T9JEa8

Doubt it would work. Even gel-type super glue is said to be too thick (viscous) for the application, let alone RTV.

Perhaps I can attempt to grind the top of the inductor and then apply the silicone. I have ordered some sample inductors on the internet where I can practice. However, this is VERY risky, and I am hesitant to proceed with this method.

Could work, maybe not. I suspect the casing of the inductor is used as part of the "core" and grinding on it would change the induction characteristics. It might help, it might hurt, but I personally wouldn't do it.

Add ferrite beads to the PCI-E power cable???

Some here have had a lot of luck with that. I would say it is a good first step, unless your card is already denuded, then try the super glue first as it would be cheaper.

Put the PCB into a vacuum chamber (I created one) so that the silicone can potentially penetrate the inductor. However, I am unsure whether the bottom of the inductor is open or not....

The bottoms are generally open. However, putting it in a full vacuum chamber would only tend to harden most silicone based RTV, as it would evaporate off the acetic acid much quicker. I doubt it would help draw into the inductor as there is no suction up into it, just general low pressures.

Solder out the inductors and replace it with a quality ones. However, I can't download the datasheet for the current ones, so I don't know which inductors I can replace them with.

Could work, but I don't think I would be able to help you find the right ones. From what I see, it tends to be the random combination of PSU and GPU that causes coil whine. New inductors may or may not help with that.

Also put thermal pads on top of the inductors so they will be attached to the GPU water-cooling block and reduce the vibrations.

Would help with the whole inductors vibrating, but if the coil is hitting the core it won't help much. It would of course absorb some vibration.

 

[zoltan]

Doubt it would work. Even gel-type super glue is said to be too thick (viscous) for the application, let alone RTV.

Could work, maybe not. I suspect the casing of the inductor is used as part of the "core" and grinding on it would change the induction characteristics. It might help, it might hurt, but I personally wouldn't do it.

Some here have had a lot of luck with that. I would say it is a good first step, unless your card is already denuded, then try the super glue first as it would be cheaper.


The bottoms are generally open. However, putting it in a full vacuum chamber would only tend to harden most silicone based RTV, as it would evaporate off the acetic acid much quicker. I doubt it would help draw into the inductor as there is no suction up into it, just general low pressures.

Could work, but I don't think I would be able to help you find the right ones. From what I see, it tends to be the random combination of PSU and GPU that causes coil whine. New inductors may or may not help with that.

Would help with the whole inductors vibrating, but if the coil is hitting the core it won't help much. It would of course absorb some vibration.

OMG!

This was a very fast reply! Also, thank you for your suggestions. I really appreciate it!

Only one thing I don't understand: If I use the super glue like what others do, it can go under the inductor (but it will not go into the coils if I understand correctly) so it will only hold the inductor package at the bottom. What happens if I use silicone and "glue" 2 (or more) inductors package into 1? So the in inductor left/right side will hold the other inductor left/right side.

I want to flood them with silicone (this is silicone potting). Will it have the same effect? (I hope you understand what I'm trying to say)

 

[Count von Schwalbe]

My understanding is that the super glue wicks up in the narrow gaps in the coils, as (I believe) the bottoms of the coils are exposed. This means that it will nearly fill with super glue, which is why the low viscosity stuff is required vs something thicker like silicone.

 

[knexfour]

Just made an account to share my experience. Bought a used 6800XT Red Devil with an EK block, didn't come with the air cooler which was fine for my purpose. It has the absolute worst coil whine I've ever heard. It whines when moving the mouse, scrolling through web pages, and obviously in games it's atrocious. Tweaking voltages, clocks and power helps a tiny bit, but to get it even remotely tolerable I have to tank its performance so much. I used Original Brand Super Glue, bought these fine tip applicators from Amazon (100 pack for $6, only needed one), and did two glue passes allowing to dry overnight each pass. Didn't help at all, it's still pretty unbearable. Before trying this mod I did try a few of the other usual common suggestions - different power supply, no PCIe pig tails, etc. Oh well, thanks for the interesting thread to scroll through. Was a good excuse to pull the block off and clean it up anyways.

 

[keep3r]

Hi

@lexluthermiester Thank you for this great thread!

I have an Asus TUF RTX 2080 Super with coil whine.
The coils in this card look like this:

Anyone had success with those types? They look like closed casings.

Otherwise I might just have to try it.

 

[Arcsaber]

A forum user recently asked about Coil Whine, which is the noise a choke coil sometimes makes as it operates. This is almost always a video card problem, but can happen on any other computer or electronics components employing a choke in it's circuitry, including motherboards & power supplies.

I have for decades been using a very easy, quick and, most importantly, permanent fix. This fix works 95% of the time to quiet the noise to the point that it is not audible more than 8inches/20cm away. The rest of the time, the noise is barely audible.

A word of caution! If your part is under warranty, you may wish to consider doing an RMA. Many(not all) manufacturers actually want the noisy part back so they can test and analyze it for re-engineering to improve future designs. If your part is NOT under warranty, read on...

What you need:
Any tools required to disassemble the part to access the choke coils in question.
One or more containers of thin liquid cyanoacrylate based glue, commonly known as "Super Glue".

The brand of super glue you choose is not important. The type is. The type must be of low viscosity so it can quickly wick into the empty spaces between the choke coil and the board it's soldered to. The applicator having a narrow tip nozzle is important as it will make applying the glue more precise. See below.

I'm about to try this myself on my whiny 4070 - got some ultra-low-viscosity CA and a set of syringes; I would rather inject than squeeze, as the control is better.

Will record a before and after and take pics of the process.

Also put thermal pads on top of the inductors so they will be attached to the GPU water-cooling block and reduce the vibrations.

This is what I plan to do in addition to gluing the internals.

 

[Nonam3]

@Arcsaber Please be very careful with thermal pads thickness and if they don't match don't allow PCB to bend or otherwise You will kill Your GPU. Learned that hard and expensive way ;/
Also from my, failed, experiments with thermal pads above inductors - didn't noticed any difference, it doesn't matter, with or without it did coil whined.

NOTE: alpha cool replied to Me that on their water blocks they don't use thermal pads for inductors as they are not needed.

 

[Arcsaber]

@Arcsaber Please be very careful with thermal pads thickness and if they don't match don't allow PCB to bend or otherwise You will kill Your GPU. Learned that hard and expensive way ;/
Also from my, failed, experiments with thermal pads above inductors - didn't noticed any difference, it doesn't matter, with or without it did coil whined.

NOTE: alpha cool replied to Me that on their water blocks they don't use thermal pads for inductors as they are not needed.

I bought a selection of pad thicknesses from eBay for this very reason - I will start with the thinnest ones, tighten the block down, and check for indent, increasing thickness each time until I see some contact.

0.2, 0.4, 1.0, and 1.5 - some combination thereof is bound to work.

 

[lexluthermiester]

Hi

@lexluthermiester Thank you for this great thread!

You're welcome! Sorry I didn't respond sooner, took a break from TPU for a few months.

I have an Asus TUF RTX 2080 Super with coil whine.
The coils in this card look like this:

Anyone had success with those types? They look like closed casings.

Otherwise I might just have to try it.

If you're still wanting to give it a go, it's worth a try.

I'm about to try this myself on my whiny 4070 - got some ultra-low-viscosity CA and a set of syringes; I would rather inject than squeeze, as the control is better.

Will record a before and after and take pics of the process.

Nice! Out of curiosity, which card do you have?

 

[xrobwx71]

Thanks Lex, nice tutorial. I'm glad it got resurrected.

I buy 2 oz bottles of super glue in various viscosities. I have one that is really thin that would work well with this. The bottles don't dry out.

You can sprinkle a small amount of baking soda on the glue, and it instantly catalyzes, blow the excess off with air.

I saw one post way back that was poopooing the Super Glue heat up and smell afterwards. This should not be an issue. Cyanoacrylate has a moisture cure process and once it's done, it's done. Nothing to evaporate (smell).

 

[lexluthermiester]

Thanks Lex, nice tutorial. I'm glad it got resurrected.

YW!

I have one that is really thin that would work well with this.

Ah! Thank You for that link. I want to try that stuff!

I saw one post way back that was poopooing the Super Glue heat up and smell afterwards. This should not be an issue. Cyanoacrylate has a moisture cure process and once it's done, it's done. Nothing to evaporate (smell).

There is a noticeable smell while it's curing. Once it's fully cured, you're right, there shouldn't be any smell as the chemical reactions are complete.

 

[Arcsaber]

Nice! Out of curiosity, which card do you have?

4070 Ventus - not many chokes

 

[Bill_Bright]

I have one that is really thin that would work well with this. The bottles don't dry out.

I too am very interested in this product based entirely on your comment, "The bottles don't dry out". That has always been my complaint about super glue. I have never, as in NEVER EVER used up an entire bottle or tube of any cyanoacrylate based glue. They have always dried/hardened soon after opening. I say "soon" but frankly, I have no clue how "soon" they dried - I only know the next time I needed it, it was dry and I had to buy more. This drying is also why I always buy the smallest size tube/bottle available, even though cost per gr/oz will be higher. I would rather throw out half a 2oz bottle than 3/4 of a 4oz bottle.

So, when you say they don't dry out, what sort of time period are you talking?

This Gorilla Super Glue with 3gr packs is less wasteful (for me) but it is not super thin.

 

[Arcsaber]

I too am very interested in this product based entirely on your comment, "The bottles don't dry out". That has always been my complaint about super glue. I have never, as in NEVER EVER used up an entire bottle or tube of any cyanoacrylate based glue. They have always dried/hardened soon after opening. I say "soon" but frankly, I have no clue how "soon" they dried - I only know the next time I needed it, it was dry and I had to buy more. This drying is also why I always buy the smallest size tube/bottle available, even though cost per gr/oz will be higher. I would rather throw out half a 2oz bottle than 3/4 of a 4oz bottle.

So, when you say they don't dry out, what sort of time period are you talking?

This Gorilla Super Glue with 3gr packs is less wasteful (for me) but it is not super thin.

I got this one:

It might as well be water.

 

[xrobwx71]

I too am very interested in this product based entirely on your comment, "The bottles don't dry out". That has always been my complaint about super glue. I have never, as in NEVER EVER used up an entire bottle or tube of any cyanoacrylate based glue. They have always dried/hardened soon after opening. I say "soon" but frankly, I have no clue how "soon" they dried - I only know the next time I needed it, it was dry and I had to buy more. This drying is also why I always buy the smallest size tube/bottle available, even though cost per gr/oz will be higher. I would rather throw out half a 2oz bottle than 3/4 of a 4oz bottle.

So, when you say they don't dry out, what sort of time period are you talking?

This Gorilla Super Glue with 3gr packs is less wasteful (for me) but it is not super thin.

I have 2 bottles. One of the thin and one that is thicker, the same brand as I linked.

I've used both on various projects and had them for about 2 years. I just checked them and both are still good.

I keep them in the house instead of a garage or otherwise exposed to the fluctuations of temps and increased moisture of a non-climate controlled environment.

 

[Shrek]

I actually keep my glues in the fridge (not freezer), which the wife allows; but that means letting the epoxy warm up each time.

 

[Arcsaber]

My kit arrived - glue and syringes/needles

The whole bag of syringes was less than a fiver on eBay - I plan to hit each choke near one leg, so the glue is drawn up through the hole; when it starts leaking out from underneath, I'll know it's done.

 

[lexluthermiester]

I actually keep my glues in the fridge (not freezer), which the wife allows; but that means letting the epoxy warm up each time.

I've never tried that. Does cooling them preserve them?

 

[Frag_Maniac]

My kit arrived - glue and syringes/needles
View attachment 350781View attachment 350782
The whole bag of syringes was less than a fiver on eBay - I plan to hit each choke near one leg, so the glue is drawn up through the hole; when it starts leaking out from underneath, I'll know it's done.

I know this is off topic, but I've been thinking of doing a CA injection to solve the one flaw in the best on-bike chain cleaning tool for my mt bike, which is made by Park Tool. It won a shootout test, but it's brush bristles can fall out here and there and get stuck in your chain.

I want to get a new one (used to use Finish Line), and inject a drop or two of glue in each bristle bundle first. Those syringes look like a good way to do it. That said, I'm thinking a very thin epoxy, if there is such a thing, might be better, as I worry the CA once dry might not be as durable.

Can you post a link to those syringes though?

 

[Arcsaber]

Can you post a link to those syringes though?

10ml,5ml,3ml Syringe & Dispene Blunt Tip Nozzle For Glue Please select size | eBay UK

We aspire to the highest of standards both in our products and service. Tip sizes include Dark Green 14 gauge, Brown 15 gauge, Black 16 gauge, Jade Green 18 gauge, Light pink 20 gauge, Purple 21 gauge, Blue 22 gauge, Orange 23 gauge, Red 25 gauge, Clear 27 gauge.

www.ebay.co.uk

I've never tried that. Does cooling them preserve them?

Yes, it does - it's how Loctite stores, them, as far as I know.

They gain viscosity in the fridge, so they have to be left to warm up before use, but IME they last a LOT longer.