3D Printer Club

[SN2716057]

I've noticed some 'webbing' when using the cheap local filament (123-3d). It's not there with small prints but with fine delicate prints (a wire skull) it's all over the place.
So, what filament (PLA) do you use and recommend?

 

[Fokker]

I've noticed some 'webbing' when using the cheap local filament (123-3d). It's not there with small prints but with fine delicate prints (a wire skull) it's all over the place.
So, what filament (PLA) do you use and recommend?

There's no one size fits all in regards to settings for materials across brands and also depending on what you're printing. You may need to change the settings for some prints, but you can save multiple profiles in slicers (I use Cura). I'm fighting with tweaking ABS right now to see if I can get consistent first layer adhesion without resorting to stuff like glue sticks.

I like Polymaker for consistency and variety of materials. I'm really excited for the Fiberon (Polymaker line) PPS-CF10 for it's strength and heat resistance, though I need to get a new printer to use it since you need a hotend over 300° C to print with it.

Formfutura is good too; I just picked up some clear ABS from them that I'm going to use to make some side marker housings from.

Edit: I've also been printing in Ender PLA+ a bunch (used almost 0.5kg).

 

[silentbogo]

I've noticed some 'webbing' when using the cheap local filament

On PETG it may be the moisture, but PLA is largely unaffected by this.
At what temperature do you print? It can happen if temps are too high, or if retract is too low(or you have too many small retracts).
Try printing a temperature calibration tower (Orca has a built-in tower generator, or you can find one online). See which temps work best and adjust your filament settings accordingly.
Same goes for retract calibration. On direct-drive extruders it shouldn't bee too high(at most 1.5-2mm). Recommended for K1 is ~0.5mm. I'd start from retraction tower in Orca (0-2mm with 0.1mm step).
Also for almost all prints I enable "Reduce Infill Retraction". This will prevent unnecessary retracts and also slightly reduces print speeds
For smooth rounded prints it helps to enable "scarf joints".

BTW, your prints look fine. I don't see much webbing there, and if you have just a little bit - it's fine. I come from the world of cheap-ass PETG which absorbs moisture better than my paper towels, so a couple of minutes scraping prints with a scalpel and burning "hair" with lighter is my normal workflow.

I need to get a new printer to use it since you need a hotend over 300° C to print with it.

If you are talking about your SOVOL, why not just swap the hotend for hi-temp one? You might also need an enclosure and redo PID calibration for both hotbed and hotend, cause these pesky open-frame printers tend to yell at ya about temperature runout if hotend hysteresis is too high.

 

[SN2716057]

On PETG it may be the moisture, but PLA is largely unaffected by this.
At what temperature do you print? It can happen if temps are too high, or if retract is too low(or you have too many small retracts).
Try printing a temperature calibration tower (Orca has a built-in tower generator, or you can find one online). See which temps work best and adjust your filament settings accordingly.
Same goes for retract calibration. On direct-drive extruders it shouldn't bee too high(at most 1.5-2mm). Recommended for K1 is ~0.5mm. I'd start from retraction tower in Orca (0-2mm with 0.1mm step).
Also for almost all prints I enable "Reduce Infill Retraction". This will prevent unnecessary retracts and also slightly reduces print speeds
For smooth rounded prints it helps to enable "scarf joints".

BTW, your prints look fine. I don't see much webbing there, and if you have just a little bit - it's fine. I come from the world of cheap-ass PETG which absorbs moisture better than my paper towels, so a couple of minutes scraping prints with a scalpel and burning "hair" with lighter is my normal workflow.


If you are talking about your SOVOL, why not just swap the hotend for hi-temp one? You might also need an enclosure and redo PID calibration for both hotbed and hotend, cause these pesky open-frame printers tend to yell at ya about temperature runout if hotend hysteresis is too high.

Temp of the nozzle is 200C, the bed is at 60C. Which is either standard setting of the K1, or data from the stl/gcode?
As for retracts distance..0,1 mm..idk will look up that later when I get home, then I'll also print the temp calibration tower.

The provided pics (post #76) had the same settings as 2 failed prints; a Sock Clip for 12 socks, and later one for 6 socks.

These settings ^

 

[PLAfiller]

Temp of the nozzle is 200C, the bed is at 60C. Which is either standard setting of the K1, or data from the stl/gcode?
As for retracts distance..0,1 mm..idk will look up that later when I get home, then I'll also print the temp calibration tower.

The provided pics (post #76) had the same settings as 2 failed prints; a Sock Clip for 12 socks, and later one for 6 socks. <- what da faaaiiill u sayy???

With Cura there are a couple of must have extensions: measurement ruler, and different tests. 60 on the bed is fine for PLA, but 200 on the nozzle seem low to me. On PLA+ I am running on 230 after a temp calibration tower test. I am on a bowden tube, so retraction is longer 5-7mm. But even for a direct extruder 0.1mm seem low to me. Best is if you can run for each new filament (or if you always buy the same brand) run a few tests like: temp tower, retraction tower and cooling tower. You will know the best settings for your particular filament/batch. On the failed prints, try reducing the speed? or reduce the infill. Like for bigger stuff just for the try, you can go at 10% infill.

 

[Fokker]

If you are talking about your SOVOL, why not just swap the hotend for hi-temp one? You might also need an enclosure and redo PID calibration for both hotbed and hotend, cause these pesky open-frame printers tend to yell at ya about temperature runout if hotend hysteresis is too high.

After having already done plenty of tinkering with the printer a is, I'd rather just buy something ready to go and spend my time on engineering the parts instead of the printer. I have the Sovol in a shroud to keep the temperatures even for ABS and other filaments that are more susceptible to temperature fluctuations.

 

[SN2716057]

@PLAfiller <- what da faaaiiill u sayy???

Yes, Sucks..I mean socks as in a sock holding clip.

Best is if you can run for each new filament (or if you always buy the same brand) run a few tests like: temp tower, retraction tower and cooling tower.

Yeah, I guess that'll have to do, until I find the perfect filament.

On the failed prints, try reducing the speed?

It was already at the lowest speed. But thanks anyway.
---
Anyway, yesterday life was too hectict so no printing done. But I can tell the extruder is 0.4 mm. And I found a temp tower test on cura marketplace, which I'll print later today..if life allows.

 

[Fokker]

Anyway, yesterday life was too hectict so no printing done. But I can tell the extruder is 0.4 mm. And I found a temp tower test on cura marketplace, which I'll print later today..if life allows.

I use the "Calibrations Shapes" plugin from marketplace. It has a mountain of tests you can run.

 

[de.das.dude]

Hello bois.

I just ordered an Ender 3 Neo. WIll be here tomorrow. Got some 3idea filament 1kg with it

I am totally new to 3d printing, but quite experienced in 3D modelling.

Subbing to this thread

 

[Pumper]

I am totally new to 3d printing, but quite experienced in 3D modelling.

Best advice I can give is if you have trouble with the filament not sticking to bed, flip that sucker over with clean glass surface up and dab it with salty water. The water will evaporate leaving salt layer that will act like glue when hot. Easy to use, easy to clean, 100% success rate.

 

[silentbogo]

dab it with salty water

Haven't heard that one. Might need to give it a try. Though, there's always some sort of risk when salt water and electronics are involved (or metals).
If printing on glass, I normally use a cheap-ass polymer glue from the local hardware store. When it's dry it flakes off the print surface(with some help from a scraping paddle or razor blade), and if you put too much of it and can't get it off - it softens and partially dissolves in IPA. Not sure what's the contents, but it's sold under so many names here, that me and my friends are just calling it a "Dragon glue"(cause the first time we found it was sold in a silly plastic bottle with a dragon on the label for some reason). I only use it if I print something big in PETG and I really don't want any warping. The biggest downsides of this glue is a mess it leaves afterwards and with really bad filament and really big prints - it can cause your glass plate to explode (literally ). Haven't had that personally, but my friend's print farm at its early days had this happen many-many times.

Otherwise - magnetic sheets work just fine. I use the cheapest ones from Kingroon, and so far they work good (assuming you do periodic surface checks and bed mesh leveling). First layer adhesion can be finicky, but if it works - you'll be the happiest chap in the world since there's going to be no cleaning or scraping or sweeping up those sticky flakes that stick to any even slightly staticky/charged surface.

 

[Pumper]

Here's a pdf if you want to read up on the salt method: https://medialibrary.uantwerpen.be/...les/bonding_pla_with_salt_water_v20160713.pdf

 

[de.das.dude]

my printer is here. yay for amazon prime lol.

Gonna set it up once work is over. I got back from office early to receive this

 

[SN2716057]

215 C seems to be the sweet spot, no more issues.
So this is the new honeycomb-style sensor mount.

Currently printing the new spool holder which hopefully be a little bit sturdier than the current side mount.

Edit: Spool holder is done! It was supposed to be an 8 hour ordeal but it did it in 2 hours and a bit

 

[Fokker]

It would be interesting to compare actual nozzle/hotend temperature readings between models to see who's thermistors are calibrated more accurately. My SV06's sweet spot for PLA/PLA+ is 195/60 (shroud doesn't make a difference). My Ender 3v2 likes 210/50, but it's also running a glass bed, so that could account for the difference.

 

[de.das.dude]

took me the better part of 8 hrs to get my ender 3 up and running to be able to print benchy :S

3d printing is hard.


So there was some snafu i guess. Listing on Amazon said ENDER 3 but the description said ENDER 3 Neo. The thing came with Ender 3 Neo firmware, and i couldnt get the frigging thing to zero properly after auto home. (xyz was at correct location while at 0,0,0).

So i went to creality site to get the firmware for ender 3 since nowhere does it say ender 3 Neo and all the manuals etc say ender 3... and i get confused haha. Finally get one merlin firmware to work that has the same hardware version, and a higher software version.

Now, im printing a benchy

And ... its quite late :'(

my hw version is 4.2.2... if anyone knows a good firmware... please let me know lol.

original firmware sw was 2.0.8.2 dated 17 feb 2023

 

[Fokker]

took me the better part of 8 hrs to get my ender 3 up and running to be able to print benchy :S

3d printing is hard.

What problems did you run into? Enders usually come pretty ready to go out of the box with minimal assembly and the Neo looks pretty straight forward from what I can see looking at the page.

 

[de.das.dude]

What problems did you run into? Enders usually come pretty ready to go out of the box with minimal assembly and the Neo looks pretty straight forward from what I can see looking at the page.

oh i was editing my post while you replied. please check above again it isnt a neo apparently


to add, i have the separate corrundum base plate, but the display is the old matrix one, and the nozzle cover is the old style lol.

original firmware sw was 2.0.8.2 dated 17 feb 2023

progress:

 

[Fokker]

That sounds fun. /s I love Amazon.

 

[de.das.dude]

That sounds fun. /s I love Amazon.

paid 157USD. cant complain really

EDIT ITS DONE!!!! ERMAGERH

the xy axes need a bit tightening i think.

 

[Fokker]

paid 157USD. cant complain really

EDIT ITS DONE!!!! ERMAGERH

View attachment 360343



the xy axes need a bit tightening i think.

I see your bet and raise you.

The PSU fan on my SV06 is bouncing off of the shroud and causing lifting/shrinkage issues. Time to test some diffusing material or make a diverter if that doesn't work.

 

[SN2716057]

Tree or normal support?

While it's easy to take of the external tree, the internal structure is a pita.

 

[de.das.dude]

Next boaty came out nice with the filament i purchased for myself at a very reasonable price (10$ for 1kg or 2.2lb) Was a bit stringy so i adjusted the temp down a bit and the retraction to 3mm.

Oh and i printed a shroud for the mainboard fan.

 

[Fokker]

Tree or normal support?
View attachment 360418
While it's easy to take of the external tree, the internal structure is a pita.

A normal support will always be more of a pain to remove. I don't use them unless absolutely necessary.

 

[SN2716057]

A normal support will always be more of a pain to remove. I don't use them unless absolutely necessary.

Plus the crunch sounds so pleasing
--
First parts of Joe Cooper's JC-Creality K1 Hinged Lid Riser https://www.printables.com/model/525295-jc-creality-k1-hinged-lid-riser

Tomorrow I'll print the front corners. This way I can keep the lid on... and just open it when printing.