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Dubai lamps

Mussels

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So now with time to google these:

The idea is that these should last longer in theory and be more efficient in general.
Standard filament LED's, with a capacitor to drop the LED's from being at max blast all the time. Hey if they arent hot enough to boil water, they live longer. wow.
That said, the price is higher too.

Why is this happening?
Because they banned the old school globes like everwhere else, but later. This is just a marketing deal slapped on top for a positive spin on it.


Huge epilepsy/strobing warning: add a capacitor, make your own dooby lamps!


My guess, they got their dimmable lamps, set em to 50% or so out of the box: tada, higher price
 
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Could use some of them dubai lamps right now since the electric bills doubling.
 
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Just turn your TV/monitor off instead of leaving it on standby and you'll get your difference back without the magical bulb for Dubai.
 
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Just turn your TV/monitor off instead of leaving it on standby and you'll get your difference back without the magical bulb for Dubai.
People could generally care more about power consumption, yes.
 

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I’ve been using led bulbs for a few years now. I like them, and I like the idea I can have a whole floor lit while using less power than a single old bulb.
 
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We've been using leds exclusively for about 10 years In our house and the biggest difference is not efficiency but not damaging your eyes I think.
Incandescent bulbs were fine but extremely inefficient.
Then we moved onto fluorescents which were way more efficient but hurt our eyes after 30 minutes or so, later we discovered that they output harmful light frequencies which the sun also produces but normally get filtered by the ozone layer.
Now is the age of LEDs to think those little plastic domes would move on to produce the majority of light on the planet as well as making a massive impact on electronics with things like octocoupler's.
 
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Just turn your TV/monitor off instead of leaving it on standby and you'll get your difference back without the magical bulb for Dubai.
Thats actually when i got the rtx 2080 when it died 5 minutes in use haha, but my main living room LED is some philips 8.5 watts 1055 lumen which is fairly okay.
 
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Those kind of LED bulbs exist , although they are way more expensive , they look like real vintage filament bulbs to me.

View attachment 235726
Yes they do exist but this:
FYI, the Dubai lamps are "special" in that they are better filtered (better/bigger caps) and have the LEDs being driven "less hard". They last much longer than the COB-filament bulbs common for (at least) the last several years. Additionally, Big Clive's Dubai Lamps were some of the least 'flickery' amongst the UK-available mishmash he tested and modded later.
I'm looking at one that's 4W and has 4 filaments, in comparison a "dubai" lamp has 8, so my lamp uses 1W per strip of LEDs and the other 0.5W, that's making the difference, also Clive in the video mentions that the company was asked to limit the bulbs to an equivalent of 60W incandescent, that's pretty low if you think about it, we have bulbs equivalent to even 250/500W at this point.
 

AsRock

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It's a led filament bulb and can be found easily Phillips just started calling them Dubai lamps as a marketing gimmick.

If i am thinking of the right ones Phillips have restricted were they are sold.

Bigclive did a video on them i do believe some time ago.

 
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I really want to know how they perform if plugged into 110V (they are not 110V rated)
 
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I really want to know how they perform if plugged into 110V (they are not 110V rated)
I can tell you how they probably perform. We have 230 volts here. I have tested several non-dimmable, non-universal-voltage LED bulbs and other lights at reduced voltages, using a variable transformer (variac). They usually are dimmable. However, at half the voltage they are unusable as they either barely light up or flash continuously. I guess you will see something similar if you connect two American lamps of the same type in series so each gets one half of the 110V volts.

A variac for each lamp is not practical, but a capacitor in series with the bulb is. I achieve nice one-step dimming by using a dual switch and capacitor.

As for high efficiency bulbs, V-TAC (a company based in ... guess it ... Dubai) has some that achieve 160 lm/W but at 4000K: 6.5W ~ 9.5W ~ 24W. There are other products like spotlights with the same 160 lm/W and 3000K, here's a detailed specification for one of them. I bought this one for the garage and it's incredibly bright for 24W, worse CRI though, and it's dimmable too, without being declared as such. They seem to have a US branch, maybe they sell equivalent products there.
 
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Much appreciated; I had thought to get a bulb to try from Dubai, but you saved me the trouble.
 
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Just turn your TV/monitor off instead of leaving it on standby and you'll get your difference back without the magical bulb for Dubai.

Not necessarily, at least with modern monitors. I have one in particular that pulls 3W whether off or standby. Pretty much anything that has soft-off pulls a little bit of vampire power. You need to kill that with a hard switch (say, on a power strip) to get around it.

Worst offender I ever noticed was the Nintendo Wii. Unless you held down the power button long enough for the LED to turn red (not amber), you could come back an arbitrary amount of time later and it would be noticeably warm. Though it'd still be a little warm in deep sleep. Docked Switch draws a few watts in standby, too, though not as much as the Wii.

General rule: Does the power button/switch go *click* in any way? No? Vampire. Heck, even stuff that does can be a vampire. Looking at you, PS/2 (ATX).
 
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How come we can't get hold of high efficiency LED bulbs?

20W effective for 1W; these things are over 2 times as efficient as what I can get my hands on.


They have been around since 2017

Dubai Lamp | Philips lighting
Probably something to do with shadey bulb consortium action, whatever makes sense gets Adjust, to make financial sense.
 
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As long as you are using some type of LEDs, there are much more impactful ways of reducing energy use than comparing efficiency of various LEDs. The EIA reports that lighting is only 4% of residential electricity use in 2020. Just buy whatever LED you want and then focus your effort onto adjusting your thermostat and water heater and any device that has a heater/cooler. There are much bigger gains to be made there.
 
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Please do because that's NOT true of all here.
The biggest issue is your gas guzzlers, get rid of them slowly but permanently & you'll have much better environment besides doing the rest of us some favor.
 
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I run a Honda Civic that does 45 mpg, and that's the smaller American gallon.
 
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I run a Honda Civic that does 45 mpg, and that's the smaller American gallon.
Knowing some differences between UK and US spelling, I think it would be highly logical to rename either the US gallon to galon or the UK gallon to gallonne.
 
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Lumens aside, color temperature matters too.
 
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I would only get the warm white versions.
 

Mussels

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Then that is pretty impressive, it's getting the lumen value of a 4W lamp, at 3W


Life changing? no.
But i do like the progress towards efficiency and increased lifespan.

My '60W' LEDs consume 9W, so for me it would be a massive improvement.

Some are even worse
 

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Why it's best to avoid LED filament lamps. In short, they overheat. Common LED lamps have diodes mounted on an aluminium substrate with good thermal coupling to the shell. The shell is usually plastic but cooling is still reasonably good, and more powerful lamps have metal shells, sometimes with cooling fins. In filament lamps, LEDs sit and sweat on tiny substrates with little cooling ability. Dubai lamps have 8 filaments for 2 watts, that's obviously better than 2 or 4. But there's still the glass bulb there, which is very effective at preventing convection cooling.

The stated lifespan is exaggerated in all CFL and LED lamps, I'm sure it's even more so in these. They're supposed to retain ~78% of lumens after 25k hours. No way.

I would only get the warm white versions.
At least in the kitchen, and elsewhere around food, look for good CRI. And R9 too - if you can ever find that data. Some of the highest efficiency V-Tac lamps that I linked have both specified and the R9 is very low, I can only assume it's a tradeoff for efficiency.
 
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At least in the kitchen, and elsewhere around food, look for good CRI. And R9 too - if you can ever find that data. Some of the highest efficiency V-Tac lamps that I linked have both specified and the R9 is very low, I can only assume it's a tradeoff for efficiency.

A good point for food.
 
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