How to quickly & easily fix coil-whine(coil choke noise)

[eidairaman1]

I'm still trying to figure out what color is his gray horse!

You just broke the internet worse than Cloudstruck!

A forum user recently asked about Coil Whine, which is the noise a choke coil sometimes makes as it operates. This is almost always a video card problem, but can happen on any other computer or electronics components employing a choke in it's circuitry, including motherboards & power supplies.

I have for decades been using a very easy, quick and, most importantly, permanent fix. This fix works 95% of the time to quiet the noise to the point that it is not audible more than 8inches/20cm away. The rest of the time, the noise is barely audible.

A word of caution! If your part is under warranty, you may wish to consider doing an RMA. Many(not all) manufacturers actually want the noisy part back so they can test and analyze it for re-engineering to improve future designs. If your part is NOT under warranty, read on...

What you need:
Any tools required to disassemble the part to access the choke coils in question.
One or more containers of thin liquid cyanoacrylate based glue, commonly known as "Super Glue".

The brand of super glue you choose is not important. The type is. The type must be of low viscosity so it can quickly wick into the empty spaces between the choke coil and the board it's soldered to. The applicator having a narrow tip nozzle is important as it will make applying the glue more precise. See below.

The glue of choice is the proper SuperGlue brand, but I also use the brand that can be found at Harbor Freight.
View attachment 291994

For this newest example, I'm using a Sparkle GeForce GTX560 2GB which has been noisy.
View attachment 291987View attachment 291988

This card only has 5 main choke coils so sealing them will be easy.
View attachment 291989

In this photo you can see how I'm applying the glue directly into the gap. Please note, the glue needs to be applied at multiple places around each choke housing shell, not just in one spot.
View attachment 291990

This photo shows how the glue has wicked itself into the gaps.
View attachment 291991

And here are two angles of the choke near the top of the card.
View attachment 291992
View attachment 291993
Notice how I've used a generous amount of glue to allow the wicking action to reach maximum effect.

It's important to use enough glue to completely wick the entire edge of the choke. Then you let it cure for at least an hour. While super glue generally sets between a few seconds to a few minutes, it still needs an hour or two to fully set and a day to fully cure. The card will be usable when the glue is set hard.

Once set the fix is complete and you're good to go! Put everything back together and test it out.

Please keep in mind: Choke Coil whine is not an exact science. Your experience and mileage might vary. Most cards will benefit from this method of noise dampening. Some more than others and there are cards that will have no effect at all, but such is less common.

Important Note:
After two reports and some research it has been discovered that the Loctite brand superglue found in many retail stores is a hybrid glue that has a consistency which falls inbetween gel types and the fluid types. As a superglue it seems like a good choice.
However in this use-case-scenario, it is NOT recommended as it is not as fluidic as normal liquid superglue types and will not wick into the spaces between the choke coil housing and PCB!

EDIT: I have redone portions of this guide to give more details, info and better photo's. Thank's to the Mods for granting a perma-edit button so I can do ongoing updates to this thread!

For everyone new to this, YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE A ROCKET SURGEON to do this procedure.

It is practicle

 

[Bill_Bright]

The suggestion is great, but I remember when I used to work in EV automotive company, that we used silicon based special glues for same filling.

Seriously?

I'm with Lex on this one. Automobiles are designed to live outdoors in extreme, sub-zero cold to extreme high heat temps and 100% humidity to include water getting splashed/drenched in there. Not to mention water mixed with ice melting salts, grease/oil and all sorts of other contaminants.

Silicon based glues and sealants are used automotive applications specifically because of its weather resistant and weather protective qualities.

 

[eidairaman1]

I'm with Lex on this one. Automobiles are designed to live outdoors in extreme, sub-zero cold to extreme high heat temps and 100% humidity to include water getting splashed/drenched in there. Not to mention water mixed with ice melting salts, grease/oil and all sorts of other contaminants.

Silicon based glues and sealants are used automotive applications specifically because of its weather resistant and weather protective qualities.

Could always use B- 1/2 as long as it doesnt have acetone.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Could always use B- 1/2

I don't know what that is.

I am not saying a silicon based adhesive won't work. The implication (at least as I interpreted it) was that Lex's solution (crazy glue) would NOT work, or worse that using them on PCBs might cause problems. That just is not true.

Just about any non-conductive, non-corrosive method that immobilizes the coils to keep them from vibrating will work just fine.

That said, a silicon solution might trap heat where crazy glue would spread out thinly and, IMO, allow heat to transfer more efficiently to the air. Just saying... !

 

[KLiKzg]

I'm with Lex on this one. Automobiles are designed to live outdoors in extreme, sub-zero cold to extreme high heat temps and 100% humidity to include water getting splashed/drenched in there. Not to mention water mixed with ice melting salts, grease/oil and all sorts of other contaminants.

Silicon based glues and sealants are used automotive applications specifically because of its weather resistant and weather protective qualities.

I am pretty sure that cyanoacrylate is too acid & will damage the connection (if it gets to soldering) & it will definitely damage the "protection coating" that you have on each & every PCB board. Hence we don't damage the GPU boards easily, as they have that protection coating - without which you are prone to ESD damage!

You do what you do. Just saying what I do know from industry standard.

& no, it has nothing to do with "weather", as all components outside of cockpit are sealed...while the ones inside are not sealed....both of them have protection coating on them, before putting it in a product.

 

[Shrek]

Some super-glues have a service temperature as low as 185°F (85°C); these I would avoid.

masterbond_cyanoacrylate.pdf

 

[Bill_Bright]

I am pretty sure that cyanoacrylate is too acid & will damage the connection

Nonsense. And years of experience from multiple people posting in this thread have made it clear, it won't.

And besides, what connection? Lex specifically said "at the base" of the choke.

But even so, 2 minutes with Bing DDG Google would have shown you that cyanoacrylate adhesives are commonly used to glue components to circuit boards - PCB Glue – A Comprehensive Guide to Gluing in PCB Manufacturing and Repair. Scroll down to "What Glue is Used on PCB Boards?" and see what is listed first on the list.

& it will definitely damage the "protection coating"

Nonsense! And so what anyway?

Do you know what that protective coating (technically called conformal coating) is? Or what it does? Very often they use epoxy resin coatings and it is meant to set hard as a rock so it cannot so easily be damaged. Crazy glue products are specifically designed to set and dry on the surface very quickly, often within seconds. And they dry even more quickly on non-porous surfaces, such as epoxy resins. So even if they were that corrosive, the glue that comes into contact with other surfaces becomes "inactive" in just seconds.

And guess what? As an air traffic control radio technician myself, guess what we did if we had to replace a component, or repair a circuit trace on a board? We had to recoat the board with a new layer of conformal coating.

You do realize cyanoacrylates are often used as sutures on skin during some medical procedures, and for temporary wound closures during emergency stabilizing procedures, right?

& no, it has nothing to do with "weather", as all components outside of cockpit are sealed...while the ones inside are not sealed...

Gee whiz dude! Please read what is said and look at the big picture and think for a second before being so quick to argue for the sake of arguing. Okay?

Are you aware that -60°F temps in the dead of winter and over 160°F temps in a closed car in the summer have EVERYTHING to do with the weather? Are you aware that materials subject to such extreme temperatures changes can suffer from expansion/contraction "fatigue", and develop microfractures, thus breaking their seals?

 

[lexluthermiester]

Could always use B- 1/2 as long as it doesnt have acetone.

I've tried nearly everything out there on this problem. CA liquid glues are easily the best solution, by a long shot. The wicking action is something few other glues can do and none as effectively. EDIT: The only thing that comes close is enamel paints(Testors Model paint works best) as it wicks very well when a little thinner in mixed in. Takes hours to dry and several days to fully cure. Still, that's the only thing that comes close to working as well.

I am pretty sure that cyanoacrylate is too acid

No, it isn't.

& will damage the connection (if it gets to soldering)

No it doesn't & won't.

& it will definitely damage the "protection coating" that you have on each & every PCB board.

No it's doesn't & won't.

Cyanoacrylate based glues are very nearly PH neutral when liquid and are chemically inert when cured/dried(which happens quickly when exposed to air). They do not, will not and can not oxidize or corrode electronics. Put simply, Super Glue is the perfect electronic adhesive/sealant and it will do no harm to the electronics they are applied to. Ever!

Disagree? Ok, prove up. Present your evidence. Otherwise, quit making trouble.

Some super-glues have a service temperature as low as 185°F (85°C); these I would avoid.

masterbond_cyanoacrylate.pdf

While this is true, please remember, nothing described by the guide in the OP of this thread shows CA glue being applied to any electronic parts that will get that hot, nor anywhere close. Choke coils, even thought they reside on the same board as the GPU die, simply do not get as hot as the die itself and never will. If they do, the user has much bigger problems than the coil whine.

 

[Shrek]

I had in mind the high frequency transformers in switched mode power supplies, where they can run hotter than 100°C

 

[lexluthermiester]

I had in mind the high frequency transformers in switched mode power supplies, where they can run hotter than 100°C

That's a fair point, but also not common. 99.9% of all PSU's have a fan that keeps thing MUCH lower than 100C. The transformers only get that hot in the core of the windings.

Additionally, I've never seen CA degrade due to heat fatigue.

Also, in that PDF, there is only one formulation that has the upper temp limit of 185F(85C), the rest are higher at 195F(90.5C) or 250F(121C), all of which are well above specs for PC PSU's. If a PSU is getting that hot, the user has bigger problems to worry about than coil noise or CA degrading from heat exposure.

 

[KLiKzg]

You can use that you want, for repairs. Maybe you are right, from your point of view.

Again, I am saying that in automotive world under scrutineering standards, we used something like this:

DOWSIL™ 7091 Adhesive Sealant

Dow's high performance, neutral cure silicone adhesive/sealant - designed for applications which demand a strong but flexible bond.

www.dow.com

Now, you can do what you want with that information. Say it ain't so or that it is too expensive.
But the facts remain, that we did use it! & did not have recalls for water leaks or electronics issues.

 

[Bill_Bright]

where they can run hotter than 100°C

I agree with Lex and it would be very uncommon for temps of PSU components to get that hot. However, several glue spec sheets and articles like this one, "Can super glue withstand high temperature?" seems to sum it up best where it says (my bold underline added),

Different brands and formulations have varying temperature ranges for optimal performance. Generally, super glue can handle temperatures as low as -40°C (-40°F) and as high as 120°C (248°F). However, prolonged exposure to extreme heat can cause degradation and weakening of the adhesive.

I think "extreme" is the key word. While PSUs do tend to run warm consistently, and may even hit the "very" warm level, they should never got "hot" - especially to the point "extreme" heat is encountered.

In other words, if cyanoacrylate based glues were used where extreme heat would be encountered, it would have been a mistake by the user for choosing the wrong glue for the job. And I suspect that is why Lex (and me too) have never seen where CA based glues degraded due to heat (assuming I could determine the cause of the degradation).

Let's point out the obvious too - we are all assuming (and rightfully so, this time) that the PSU is not some underpowered, no-name, inefficient generic PSU with a genuine "80 PLUS Aluminum" certification label.

Again, I am saying that in automotive world under scrutineering standards, we used something like this

Again? Ummm, no. Before you were claiming CA based glues were no good for electronics, including PCBs. Different tune now.

NO ONE is disputing that silicone based adhesives won't work, or your claim that you used silicone adhesives. RTV type sealants and adhesives have been used in outdoor environments for decades. I remember using high-temp RTV (and smashing my finger) when remounting the one-piece head on my 1960 F-100 223CI straight-6 engine way back in 1968. And I have used RTV type adhesives on whining coils and buzzing transformer plates for nearly as long. The point here is silicone based adhesives are not the only effective adhesive for these purposes.

I also note you say, "scrutineering standards". Ummm, no. Company "policy", maybe. But "standards"? Railway standards (as noted in your link), yes. Automotive standards? No. At least not that I can find.

 

[Shrek]

I've tried nearly everything out there on this problem.

Was wondering if you tried red insulating varnish, perhaps with a solvent to make it thinner.

 

[Count von Schwalbe]

underpowered, no-name, inefficient generic PSU with a genuine "80 PLUS Aluminum" certification label.

Somewhere I have one laying around that's genuine 90 plus gold...

 

[Bill_Bright]

Was wondering if you tried red insulating varnish, perhaps with a solvent to make it thinner.

After reading the description (Red Insulating Varnish), pretty sure that is what many manufacturers apply to transformer plates and coil windings during assembly. It is great for insulating but not sure about stopping noise making vibrations. I know in some old radios, I have seen what appeared to be red varnish "flaking" off transformers.

At $18 for the smallest size bottle, I nominate Shrek to buy a bottle and try it out, then let us know how it worked!

 

[lexluthermiester]

You can use that you want, for repairs. Maybe you are right, from your point of view.

Again, I am saying that in automotive world under scrutineering standards, we used something like this:

DOWSIL™ 7091 Adhesive Sealant

Dow's high performance, neutral cure silicone adhesive/sealant - designed for applications which demand a strong but flexible bond.

www.dow.com

Now, you can do what you want with that information. Say it ain't so or that it is too expensive.
But the facts remain, that we did use it! & did not have recalls for water leaks or electronics issues.

While that stuff would work well in the AUTOMOTIVE world, as well as similar applications, it has no place being used in the context of the problems this thread is all about. That's a total fail here.

Was wondering if you tried red insulating varnish, perhaps with a solvent to make it thinner.

View attachment 357621

You've mentioned that previously. I'm kind of intrigued. And I think I mentioned that I agree that it would likely work well, but you have to wait a day or two for it to properly cure.

It is great for insulating but not sure about stopping noise making vibrations. I know in some old radios, I have seen what appeared to be red varnish "flaking" off transformers.

I disagree. I've used thinned out enamel paints to reasonable effect(I was out of super glue at the time) and this stuff has similar qualities, based on the description materials I read. It would be interesting to experiment.

 

[3DVCash]

I can't be bothered checking all 39 pages of this thread to see if this was posted, but an unintuitive trick that worked WONDERS for my mobo was running OpenRGB in the background. Seems to be a near universal fix for Asus AM5 boards, which are notoriously whiny.

I found it mentioned on Reddit, and as skeptical as I was... it completely silenced my board. It's been over a month later and nothing!

Just dropping this here in hopes it helps someone else!

 

[lexluthermiester]

I can't be bothered checking all 39 pages of this thread to see if this was posted, but an unintuitive trick that worked WONDERS for my mobo was running OpenRGB in the background. Seems to be a near universal fix for Asus AM5 boards, which are notoriously whiny.

I found it mentioned on Reddit, and as skeptical as I was... it completely silenced my board. It's been over a month later and nothing!

Just dropping this here in hopes it helps someone else!

Glad it worked for you! While coil whine on motherboards is less common, it does happen. Well done eh!

 

[3DVCash]

Glad it worked for you! While coil whine on motherboards is less common, it does happen. Well done eh!

Haha, thanks! It wasn't so bad when I had a closed case, but once I swapped to my mesh A3...

I have no idea why it works, but my B650E-I isn't screaming at me anymore, so I'm not complaining!

 

[Bill_Bright]

I disagree.

Well, I wasn't making a statement of fact. Please note I said I was "not sure", citing the fact I have seen with my own eyes, "what appeared to be" red varnish "flaking" off transformers. Perhaps I should have been more clear by saying flaking off buzzing transformers - as that suggested (to me at the time) the "apparent" varnish was only a short-term, temporary solution. But I would still have to say the red stuff only "appeared" to be the same red varnish stuff Shrek was referring to.

I've used thinned out enamel paints

"Enamel paints"? Oh? Well that makes your statement of disagreement even more puzzling. No where did I mention or suggest using enamel paints. I clearly was talking about Shrek's "varnish" (or what "appeared" to be varnish). I even included a link to the "varnish".

Varnish is a totally different substance than enamel paint.

I will add I have never used paints on whining coils or buzzing transformer plates. I have on occasion, however, used finger nail polish to good effect. Though not sure that makes for a permanent solution either - if there is such a thing.

 

[KLiKzg]

While that stuff would work well in the AUTOMOTIVE world, as well as similar applications, it has no place being used in the context of the problems this thread is all about. That's a total fail here.

You do know that AUTOMOTIVE certificates are more strict & higher for similar components, then on merely computer ones?
Only stricker ones are the ones for aero-space & medical industry.

Just mentioning, to let people know. As you would want to burst a cap, when you need ABS or traction control unit working.
Till next time, stay well. & drink more beer! (not while driving)

 

[Bill_Bright]

You do know that AUTOMOTIVE certificates are more strict & higher for similar components, then on merely computer ones?
Only stricker ones are the ones for aero-space & medical industry.

Nonsense.

I hate to burst your bubble KLIKzg, but contrary to your belief, there are many high tech fields (in and out of IT) with much tighter and stricter tolerances and compliance levels than automotive certs.

The main reason some compliance requirements in the automotive industry are so strict is NOT due to the electronics. Rather it is the destruction potentials the speeds combined with the sheer mass of the vehicles can cause when they collide with other objects.

While your reaction can rip your rotator cuff apart if you grab on to a spark plug wire, it won't kill you. Stick your hand inside a live PSU, and it might be Tango Uniform for you.

 

[lexluthermiester]

Well, I wasn't making a statement of fact. Please note I said I was "not sure", citing the fact I have seen with my own eyes

I meant no offense.

citing the fact I have seen with my own eyes, "what appeared to be" red varnish "flaking" off transformers

And I believe you, have seen it myself.

"Enamel paints"? Oh? Well that makes your statement of disagreement even more puzzling. No where did I mention or suggest using enamel paints.

No, but they're very similar once cured/dried, thus the association.

Till next time, stay well. & drink more beer! (not while driving)

Not big beer drinker. I'm more into sweet flavored spirits. But Cheers!

 

[eidairaman1]

I don't know what that is.

I am not saying a silicon based adhesive won't work. The implication (at least as I interpreted it) was that Lex's solution (crazy glue) would NOT work, or worse that using them on PCBs might cause problems. That just is not true.

Just about any non-conductive, non-corrosive method that immobilizes the coils to keep them from vibrating will work just fine.

That said, a silicon solution might trap heat where crazy glue would spread out thinly and, IMO, allow heat to transfer more efficiently to the air. Just saying... !

I've tried nearly everything out there on this problem. CA liquid glues are easily the best solution, by a long shot. The wicking action is something few other glues can do and none as effectively. EDIT: The only thing that comes close is enamel paints(Testors Model paint works best) as it wicks very well when a little thinner in mixed in. Takes hours to dry and several days to fully cure. Still, that's the only thing that comes close to working as well.


No, it isn't.

No it doesn't & won't.

No it's doesn't & won't.

Cyanoacrylate based glues are very nearly PH neutral when liquid and are chemically inert when cured/dried(which happens quickly when exposed to air). They do not, will not and can not oxidize or corrode electronics. Put simply, Super Glue is the perfect electronic adhesive/sealant and it will do no harm to the electronics they are applied to. Ever!

Disagree? Ok, prove up. Present your evidence. Otherwise, quit making trouble.


While this is true, please remember, nothing described by the guide in the OP of this thread shows CA glue being applied to any electronic parts that will get that hot, nor anywhere close. Choke coils, even thought they reside on the same board as the GPU die, simply do not get as hot as the die itself and never will. If they do, the user has much bigger problems than the coil whine.

B1, B2, B1/2, are also known as Proseal, which is a 2 part sealant, once mixed and it cures after 1 hr, 2 hrs, or 30 minutes it is a rubber consistency that keeps water out, it is used in aviation from antennas, bushings, fuel tanks and probes, radomes, other surfaces etc, heck some are electrically conductive. I was thinking being rubberized it would have a damping effect on a resonating coil.

 

[lexluthermiester]

I was thinking being rubberized it would have a damping effect on a resonating coil.

And how would we apply any one them? Sure, put the stuff on in the factory before the parts are soldered in place and we can call it a great solution. Not so much post-consumer delivery. None of those compounds have a wicking action while liquid that allows them to seep into the spaces inside the coil and into the spaces where the coil housing meets the PCB.

Any adhesive that has wicking action before curing, that is PH neutral(or close to it) and chemically inert once cured would work as a great solution for this problem. No wicking qualities, it's going to be difficult(cumbersome) to work with and much less effective.