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Optimus Foundation CPU Block - AMD

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That's correct. Sounds strange, but there is no reason for the backplate and, because motherboards these days are weird, some backplates will actually hit critical areas on the back. The area for the standoffs is part of the specification clearance areas so there is zero issue for hitting anything. Also, monoblocks and gpus work this way, it's only certain cpus that still use a backplate. The massive thread over on OCN has whole sections going back and forth about this. But the end result is that the springless simplified mounting is actually better performance.
What is you opinion on this sir:

Backplate usage/need
1. To support the board's socket area against bending due to a large and heavy aircooler tower
2. To support the board's socket area against bending due to mounting pressure of whatever cooler
3. Both of the above

Or you can state your own opinion about this. Im interested into this.

Mind that most here are interested in a long term application for their system, and its not for like a competion for a day or two.
Mounting pressure is not going to play any role long term to board bending?
I can understand that today boards are more solid constructions than the past ones due to thicker and more copper layers and more trace layers, but still its a valid question I think.
 
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Optimus Water Cooling

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Good questions.

We don't see any warping with our mounting system. And backplates have all kinds of potential problems because the "keep out" area on motherboards is only around the mounting holes, not the entire area where a backplate would create contact. For example, here's a random mobo I have with tons of additional bits of different heights on the back. Many back plates will actually hit them and won't wit well. You don't want your pressure to be on any of the mobo electronics, just the PCB itself. So any backplate that isn't only touching the mounting holes is actually a bad design, because it's potentially damaging the mobo electronics. Really, you only want pressure around the mounting holes, otherwise you're inviting bigger serious problems.

IMG_20200207_074332.jpg


Also, the distance between the holes and the socket mounts is like 20mm or 3/4" or less, so it's really not in any sort of danger area for serious warping, even if you were to go crazy on it.

So mega heavy air coolers are a different story, though they will, regardless of backplates, warp the motherboard socket area by just putting so much force across the entire top of the mobo. I've seen PCs shipped with air coolers that break free and absolutely obliterate the insides of a PC. Insane stuff.

Also, we've done tests on PCB warping and it has zero factor on motherboards. On GPUs, it's different, and warping can cause the GPU to become unstable pretty quickly.

But, overall, we've not only tested this like crazy, but the hardcore guys over at OCN have as well, going from insanely skeptical to testing and seeing great results for themselves.

All that said, AM4 motherboards are weird as well. AMD needs to redo their AM4 socket, hopefully AM5 will ditch the pins-on-CPU style and finally go with LGA like Threadripper. The AM4 socket is really bad, and causes all kinds of problems, mostly people breaking pins when removing CPU coolers (use the twist method!).

We didn't make our block compatible with the stock AM4 backplate because the backplate has standoffs that come through the mobo and are too high for applying correct pressure.

Also some AM4 mobos have massive mounting holes, which have caused some annoyance. We're including washers but will be working on a really nice custom AMD solution for mounting in the future that we'll send out to all Foundation AMD owners at no cost.
 
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This is the back of my motherboard, a Gigabyte Aorus X470 Gaming 7 wifi

gigabyte-x470-gaming7-back.jpg backplate- gigabyte.jpg
 
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1581093884792.png


Can't No4 in the above pic, be replaced with the backplate down below?
Why the need to be replaced? Isnt the same in terms of screw hole? (sorry for bad English). Or if it isnt why didnt you make it usable with your middle section (3), so it can bolt to stock backplate (instead of 4 I mean)
Am I missing something? And the stock backplate isnt going to hurt anything to the back.
Its there to touch and support the board.

1581093864065.png



EDIT:
We didn't make our block compatible with the stock AM4 backplate because the backplate has standoffs that come through the mobo and are too high for applying correct pressure.
Sorry, just notice this...
The standoffs come through the board all the way up to the block mount hole? If it is then ok I understand
 
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Optimus Water Cooling

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Good question. The issue with the AM4 backplate is there are standoffs that go through the motherboard and stick up on the other side. Unfortunately, those standoffs hit our bracket. There are probably 20 pages worth of discussion about this over at OCN, and the upshot is, while it seems like using the backplate would work, it's ultimately easier to use our standard solution.

That said, we're working on a slightly modified AM4 mounting system that really is only about convenience and not performance. And we'll send that out free to anyone who wants it.
 
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Good question. The issue with the AM4 backplate is there are standoffs that go through the motherboard and stick up on the other side. Unfortunately, those standoffs hit our bracket. There are probably 20 pages worth of discussion about this over at OCN, and the upshot is, while it seems like using the backplate would work, it's ultimately easier to use our standard solution.

That said, we're working on a slightly modified AM4 mounting system that really is only about convenience and not performance. And we'll send that out free to anyone who wants it.

I would be interested in one of those please, so if you could put my name down for one I would be grateful, thanks.

Sure my next thought will have been covered already in that thread, but couldn't a user either use washers to raise the backplate slightly, or even grind/file off the standoff enough so that it doesn't foul your bracket?
 

Optimus Water Cooling

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Yup, all those solutions work, but then it's more work for no benefit. Adding washers means the pressure is simply in the same place as our thumb nuts on the back, so it would apply pressure in the same way as no back plate (which is how plastic backplates work and any backplate that doesn't make contact directly with the area on the CPU. One could modify our block brackets in any way they like, though, it's still more work for a less ideal solution than our stock mounting hardware :)
 
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Yup, all those solutions work, but then it's more work for no benefit. Adding washers means the pressure is simply in the same place as our thumb nuts on the back, so it would apply pressure in the same way as no back plate (which is how plastic backplates work and any backplate that doesn't make contact directly with the area on the CPU. One could modify our block brackets in any way they like, though, it's still more work for a less ideal solution than our stock mounting hardware :)

Oh i wasn't thinking of modifying your bracket (haven't got the tools for that), I was thinking more about simply grinding off the protruding amount from the integral standoffs of the backplate?
 

Optimus Water Cooling

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Not sure the threads are the same or there would be enough to grip onto if they were removed.

Really though, there's zero reason to do this unless the motherboard is in a location that simply cannot be accessed from the back (like an installed server or something). Save time, use our stock mounting :)
 
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Not sure the threads are the same or there would be enough to grip onto if they were removed.

Really though, there's zero reason to do this unless the motherboard is in a location that simply cannot be accessed from the back (like an installed server or something). Save time, use our stock mounting :)

All AMD MB come with the standard AMD backplate and therefore will have the same threading. I just don't see the point in adding extra nuts and whatever thread you use on your bolts. I would have thought that machining a small area on the underside of your mounting bracket so that the standouffs do not foul your bracket to be cheaper than adding in the extra cost of machining your own rear-side nuts?
 
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Optimus Water Cooling

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You make a very good point :D We went that way for consistency of testing and performance. But we'll revisit if we need to in the future. Really, this is just about convenience, though easy install is important. We're working on some even more interesting types of mounting for future blocks, so we're definitely taking in all the feedback to make sure we have the best solutions going forward :)
 
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Good question. The issue with the AM4 backplate is there are standoffs that go through the motherboard and stick up on the other side. Unfortunately, those standoffs hit our bracket. There are probably 20 pages worth of discussion about this over at OCN, and the upshot is, while it seems like using the backplate would work, it's ultimately easier to use our standard solution.

That said, we're working on a slightly modified AM4 mounting system that really is only about convenience and not performance. And we'll send that out free to anyone who wants it.
Could you not counter sink hole each hole on the back of the Am4 bracket to allow the backing bracket fitted nuts to sink into it in use.
I have bent motherboards into oblivion in the past trying to get clamp pressure right with half rubbish setups(years ago in my PC nesbitry) admittedly my fault, but even recently using full cover blocks on this rig, initially I did not fit a rear bracket by accident onto the GPU when I added metal Tim, temperature variations suffered and my GPU hotspot temp became an issue, so I fitted the spring bracket back on and the temps were better especially the hotspot indicating more even and consistent heat transfer with the clamp.
I've drilled those nut stands out of a back mount, they're hardened and stubborn shits but if I had to I would do it again, because I prefer less flex tension all round, personally.
I like the look of your wares though and will consider them in the future:).
 
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You make a very good point :D We went that way for consistency of testing and performance. But we'll revisit if we need to in the future. Really, this is just about convenience, though easy install is important. We're working on some even more interesting types of mounting for future blocks, so we're definitely taking in all the feedback to make sure we have the best solutions going forward :)

i feel that anything that means that the MB backplate does not require to be removed advantageous. Also, for those that are more adventurous, say like @Bones that like to adapt and have the tools to do so, they should be able to mod as they wished anyway.

I understand what you are saying, but your thinking might limit your sales as well - I know that removing a backplate is hardly difficult but may put some off?
And as I said, if you used the AMD AM4 standard threading, it would lower your production costs somewhat, as there would be no need for any custom-made rear-side nuts

Could you not counter sink hole each hole on the back of the Am4 bracket to allow the backing bracket fitted nuts to sink into it in use.

Exactly this And standard AMD AM4 threading would then make it a far easier mounting process, one that i could not see affecting your optimum mounting procedure, although there of course you are the obvious experts
 

Optimus Water Cooling

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All good points :) The truth is the AMD block is so popular through just word of mouth we're working crazy overtime to keep up with demand. Yes, the mounting is different but the performance is where it's at. We'll revise the mounting in future versions.
 

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I will have to concur with the others. You have the benefit of the word-of-mouth hype for now, but when the first round of customers have already purchased your blocks, then other factors will come in to compete against less-expensive alternatives. Ease of installation is high on the priority list here, as is alternatives when it comes to aesthetics and customization.
 
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@Optimus Water Cooling sorry to be a pain about it but do you know what thread type and size it is that you use in your bolts please?
Just wondered, because if they are the same as the AM4, I may try and source another backplate and grind the standoffs down a little, that way the original backplate could still be used for other coolers still
 
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Im not concerned with breaking boards with mounting hardware, but rather the actual clamping force provided with the plateless design.

Ive read a good deal of the thread, theres a lot of useless back and forth there at OCN with many opinions lacking information. So ive probably skipped some useful information there. During free time Ill continue browsing the thread.
 
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Im not concerned with breaking boards with mounting hardware, but rather the actual clamping force provided with the plateless design.

Ive read a good deal of the thread, theres a lot of useless back and forth there at OCN with many opinions lacking information. So ive probably skipped some useful information there. During free time Ill continue browsing the thread.

Thanks, as you will surely be able to follow things a lot better than I will ATM, only finished a weeks worth of treatment today and brainfog doesn't even begin to describe it

If you were able to accommodate the height of the backplates stand offs into the posts, that might then go some way towards offsetting the extra large holes that you said some of the MBs have, requiring you to make use of differently sized washers.
 
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Thanks, as you will surely be able to follow things a lot better than I will ATM, only finished a weeks worth of treatment today and brainfog doesn't even begin to describe it
That sucks man. Hoping the treatments do more good than bad.

A lot of OCN'ers seem to think rather than "know" something. A lot of back and forth dribble over the thoughts of this or that more so than any real evidence provided by any of them, I don't mean technical users, but the ones that I would call "far from extreme" and that's kinda where I land myself when it comes to cooling and some very important facts and details that may pertain to me more so than 98% of the PC population.

Where mounting pressure does make a difference, a lot of times, it's not that great or noticeable.

I mean, each time I reseat a water block, I wait at minimum 24 hours before taking the reported temps seriously. There's always push out, no matter how little.
At this point, I always double check the mounting, especially spring-less design because of push out. I've come to considerably looser or lower over all clamping force and also un-even. Which is very important to keep an eye on for lid-less applications (where I'm 99.9% more extreme than the average user) and plays such a large role in the cooling effects of the apparatus being implemented to cool my hardwares.

Most factory mounting for my uses is quite low in clamping force that's needed for naked chips. Find useful information for me is very difficult and time consuming while there isn't a great deal out there from the lack of de-lidded chips because they are all soldered.

So really for us to go back and forth over clamping force for chips with IHS plates isn't quite important here. I fully understand that. But it's good to give people some figures regardless.

For example, "our mounting design has an average higher clamping force of 130 inch pounds over leading competitors" for example.
Or another, "We can use a lighter clamping force because our waterblock cooling plate design is THAT efficient, this is where we can drop 5c" (I gather this is currently in use)

That's where a lot of criticism comes from I think. It's hard to make claims without good information with numbers. I need data. It's how I am.

So for example, the cold plate can hold X amount of BTU at X dissipation rate over X period of time. These are 3 very important figures to have and much better for people's understanding.

I believe this water block design is top notch just simply for having some mass on that cold plate. It is important to have some BTU storage while water (with/without X amount of surface area) can only consume so much BTU at X temperature. We all know as water gets warmer, it can conduct BTU faster. That's a good thing in so many ways, but still limited to copper's BTU to water transfer time. Thus having copper mass creates a storage of BTU before dissipation increasing the cooling capability of the waterblock.

The fin design is just an added perk. But like air, water always flows the easiest path. I sometimes wondered if surface area fin count plays a big role while having such little space between the small fins. Having even space between the sides and center with enough to have the same flow through all passes is important. You want even flow throughout the entire inside of that waterblock. This is difficult to measure, but if the fins are too close together, it cause more restriction and possible rise in temps. This is the reason on custom loops, you buy a nice big variable speed water pump. Flow matters.

Having a claim of 5c drop in temps is going to be rather difficult in systems that use less radiator, be it the design and passes or just the number of rads and which processor, voltage used ect ect. From a marketing stand point, I'd remove this just to save face and possible BS later.
The technical information will sell the waterblock. It just needs to be organized in Lehman's terms for the average people.
 

Optimus Water Cooling

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Love the technical talk! Definitely good to get into how cooling and the industry works :)

...A lot of OCN'ers seem to think rather than "know" something. A lot of back and forth dribble over the thoughts of this or that more so than any real evidence provided by any of them...

Many of the guys over there are known overclockers or SIs who build high performance systems for business customers. And they've done some pretty extensive testing on on our blocks, on different CPUs, and the results, while variable, are very positive and very real. Some of the builders are more serious than others, but they'll post screenshots and detailed test setups so you know it's legit. Here's a link to the user benchmarking list with sources linked: https://optimuspc.com/pages/reviews

And here's a pretty clean test by user Nory:

optimus-9900ks-baredie-bechmark-1.jpg


Where mounting pressure does make a difference, a lot of times, it's not that great or noticeable.

We'll quibble here. Mounting pressure 100% makes a difference across any waterblock mating to the IHS. On our blocks especially, strong mounting pressure makes a great difference. The reason is you want the best contact between the cold plate and the IHS. And to push out the thermal paste as much as possible. The difference between weak and strong pressure with our blocks can be around 5c or so.

For example, "our mounting design has an average higher clamping force of 130 inch pounds over leading competitors" for example.
Or another, "We can use a lighter clamping force because our waterblock cooling plate design is THAT efficient, this is where we can drop 5c" (I gather this is currently in use)
That's where a lot of criticism comes from I think. It's hard to make claims without good information with numbers. I need data. It's how I am.

Clearly those aren't our quotes :) So not sure who's criticizing us for making a claim like that, since we don't say anything about lighter clamping force, etc.

As for data, we love data :) That's why we've listed far more information about our product than any other water cooling company. Our product pages are MASSIVE. Details about fin sizes, materials used, everything. No other company comes close to giving the details that we do. I imagine we could add heat maps and some other calculations, but there really isn't anything to compare it to. Because not sure what company (in this water cooling space) provides information like that. It's mostly about RGBs these days.

So for example, the cold plate can hold X amount of BTU at X dissipation rate over X period of time. These are 3 very important figures to have and much better for people's understanding.

Do you have an example for that BTU metric used by cooling companies? The industry typically uses watts per meter kelvin (W/mK), like with thermal pads, higher W/mK, better thermal conductivity. Also, BTU isn't the ideal metric for measuring heat storage or heat transfer since BTU = unit of heat/energy. If you're talking about "specific heat capacity" aka the amount of heat a material can hold joule/ gram C is the right metric.

And interestingly water is 4.19 J/gC while copper is 0.39 J/gC.

I believe this water block design is top notch just simply for having some mass on that cold plate. It is important to have some BTU storage while water (with/without X amount of surface area) can only consume so much BTU at X temperature. We all know as water gets warmer, it can conduct BTU faster. That's a good thing in so many ways, but still limited to copper's BTU to water transfer time. Thus having copper mass creates a storage of BTU before dissipation increasing the cooling capability of the waterblock.

Hmmm, this isn't how heat transfer works. Having cold plate mass -- aka big ol' thick cold plate -- will transfer heat less efficiently and is the opposite of what is desired.

You don't want copper to hold any heat, it needs to transfer the heat super fast. Otherwise your CPU would heat up and throttle instantly.

Thus, the thinner cold plate is better. Otherwise, mega thick cold plates from back in the day would work better. And removing the IHS, which is copper, would hurt, not help, performance when it's removed.

Instead, bare die with a thin plate with high surface area transfers the most heat away from the die. Because thicker copper acts as an insulator to the die.

Our plates look thicker because the outside is thicker for mounting, but the insides are much thinner.

The fin design is just an added perk. But like air, water always flows the easiest path. I sometimes wondered if surface area fin count plays a big role while having such little space between the small fins. Having even space between the sides and center with enough to have the same flow through all passes is important. You want even flow throughout the entire inside of that waterblock. This is difficult to measure, but if the fins are too close together, it cause more restriction and possible rise in temps. This is the reason on custom loops, you buy a nice big variable speed water pump. Flow matters.

This is definitely way off :) "fin design is just an added perk" -- nothing is farther from the truth, fins are the entire ball game :) Surface area is 10000% the most important metric in cooling. That's why radiators need massive surface area. A radiator made out of a solid block of copper wouldn't do squat :D Better fin area, better flow, better cooling.

Also, you make the classic mistake of assuming more fins = reduced flow rate.

Our blocks have similar flow to other top blocks, we just have far more fins and, thus, far greater surface area. How? The total space between the fins is similar.

And if this wasn't true, the old school waterblocks with like 4 giant fins would cool better. But this is clearly not the case. Also, we haven't come close to reaching the point where water molecules can't fit through the fins. Turbulence is interesting to think about, but that would have to do with the surface finish on the fins themselves, not the distance between them. Yes, flow matters 100%, but assuming flow and fin count are tied that closely is incorrect.

Having a claim of 5c drop in temps is going to be rather difficult in systems that use less radiator, be it the design and passes or just the number of rads and which processor, voltage used ect ect. From a marketing stand point, I'd remove this just to save face and possible BS later.

Again, we never claimed 5c drop in every scenario. We're giving general numbers and only listing user comments from real people who have done real world testing on real systems. Like the example above on the 9900k bare die, he tested it like crazy and saw a 6c improvement. Of course, results will vary between users. Using a 15w CPU? Yeah, you're not gonna see any difference. Pushing 400w through an intel 18 core? Big difference.

The technical information will sell the waterblock. It just needs to be organized in Lehman's terms for the average people.

Definitely don't agree here :) RGBs sell blocks, marketing sells blocks, cannot see how BTU numbers would mean anything to average buyers. If technical numbers sold blocks, then the industry would look really different (a lot less rainbow bright). Also, I think we've explained why our blocks work pretty well: more surface area = better performance.

In any case, appreciate the feedback and thoughts, good to dive into this stuff :)
 
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Right I see some misconception of what I mean when I use the word "example" meaning not directly or pointing fingers at lol.

Actually yes, retaining BTU before dissipation is exactly how it works. BTU doesn't transfer through any material instantly, there's a set time limit. Obviously we are not measuring it. We only measure the temps (average user = we) and therfor don't need an understanding.

It sucks being an iron worker and understanding the basic fundamentals of metals physics. The time it takes to heat a material up, is not always reflected by the amount of time it takes to cool off.

So again, we only cool a cpu in a single 2 dimensional angle. Straight up. We don't utilize water to cool all of the copper surface area, that's why waterblock developers all make water blocks that cool nearly identical to each other.

No one's thinking outside the box.

Again, we never claimed 5c drop in every scenario.

You say it, people think it. "every scenario" need not apply.

RGBs sell blocks
like bell bottoms, here today, gone tomorrow.... just like the massive heatsinks on old motherboards.
Big heavy and neat looking. Now they plate the PCB and shit. Just a fad for now.

why our blocks work pretty well: more surface area = better performance.

You are taking advantage of just a tad more surface area. You are still only cooling copper on one surface of the waterblock. I have many design ideas for waterblocks that greatly differ from traditional.
On average, most cold plates are only being cooled by liquid on perhaps 30% of the potential cold plate surface area.
You can further drop temps with full metal blocks by simply cooling the remaining surface area.... with a fan.

No the extra copper doesn't help? Hmm, I'd beg to differ that statement while you are cooling maybe 1-2% more surface area than perhaps competition compared to your water block.

Metals store heat. Some can store more heat than others, some dissipate it faster than others. There's another thread here that would be of some interest while talking about an increased temperature gradient. Metals and liquids move heat faster with higher temps, your goal producing a waterblock is to lower the temps.

This is a traditional waterblock design. It's good.

I have an old school block. It's got a lot of copper. Doesn't even have fins, but I bet it weighs as much as yours (within 5%) and within 5c temps a decade plus old.


Also, you make the classic mistake of assuming more fins = reduced flow rate.

Not assuming, knowing. There's a difference.

If there is space between the fins and the top plate, the water will take this path if it's greater than between the fins.
Water flowing through the fins will slow down from the friction against the fins.


Instead, bare die with a thin plate with high surface area transfers the most heat away from the die. Because thicker copper acts as an insulator to the die.

I'd beg to differ and offer my lid-less PGA 2700x as proof this claim is totally false.
 
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