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Optimus Foundation CPU Block - AMD

D

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lol your idea of cooling a block with a fan reminded me of this: https://forums.evga.com/Finally-Air-Cooled-CPU-Waterblock-m395778.aspx

Pretty efficient design example, thank you.

So also strengthens the point of traditional waterblock cooling. Your only adding surface area inside a small water chamber. This does not utilize all of the copper effectively.
Then put Acrylic on top which is an insulator, while copper is never an insulator. It will absorb the heat and most evenly disperse this heat over most other metals.

With copper on copper blocks, some heat transfer and dissipation is lost from the bottom half to the top while there is a lack of a thermal interface material, perhaps some thermal padding to increase conductivity between the two halfs, then a fan on top like the one in the link there.

It's sad to solely rely on traditional waterblock designs. Most of them far from impressive in the sense that they are all basically the same.
Some use this fin count, some use just a small plate, some full copper..... but all of them actually utilize a small portion of the copper to water transfer.
 

Optimus Water Cooling

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Hey there, happy to discuss this, want to keep it casual and fun like liquid cooling should be :)

Much of this is based on our experience. For general reference of where we're coming from, we have a background in aerospace, hydraulic and medical manufacturing with some fancy engineering degrees.

Also, I thought it was general knowledge that more surface area is better for cooling. Bigger air coolers are better than small air coolers. Same with waterblocks. Same with radiators. Same with any kind of cooling. The entire world of cooling works with cooling like this -- PCs, cars, air conditioners, etc.

Maybe I'm missing something your points or not understanding what's being disputed here? Any competing products you can point to that illuminate what you're talking about?

Actually yes, retaining BTU before dissipation is exactly how it works. BTU doesn't transfer through any material instantly, there's a set time limit. ...he time it takes to heat a material up, is not always reflected by the amount of time it takes to cool off.

The heat retention of a block of copper will be reached nearly immediately. A cold plate could be an inch thick, that CPU will shut itself off instantly. That's why it has to be cooled, right? More surface area cools faster.

As for the idea that holding more BTU is better, with liquid cooling blocks, it's not like a battery that trickles up with heat, holds it, then dumps the heat. The goal is to get the heat to the water as fast as possible BEFORE the copper heats up to the point of causing the CPU to shut itself off.

So again, we only cool a cpu in a single 2 dimensional angle. Straight up. We don't utilize water to cool all of the copper surface area, that's why waterblock developers all make water blocks that cool nearly identical to each other.

2 dimensions? Fins on cold plates are 3 dimensions. CPUs are flat, we increase the surface area by going into the z axis with fins aka the 3rd dimension.

No one's thinking outside the box.

Beg to differ :D

You are taking advantage of just a tad more surface area. You are still only cooling copper on one surface of the waterblock. I have many design ideas for waterblocks that greatly differ from traditional.
On average, most cold plates are only being cooled by liquid on perhaps 30% of the potential cold plate surface area.
You can further drop temps with full metal blocks by simply cooling the remaining surface area.... with a fan.

Our cold plate fin surface area is 21.8 square inches. The rest of the plate is roughly 7.7in^2. So water is touching ~ 75% of the surface. 5.5in^2 touches the CPU.

So the only area that can be cooled with a fan is 0.99in^2.

No the extra copper doesn't help? Hmm, I'd beg to differ that statement while you are cooling maybe 1-2% more surface area than perhaps competition compared to your water block.

Definitely more than 1-2% :D This is our upcoming threadripper block vs the top performing current block. You'll also notice our regular CPU block has MORE surface area than the competing threadripper block shown.

optimus-threadripper-comparison-web-1.jpg


Metals store heat. Some can store more heat than others, some dissipate it faster than others. There's another thread here that would be of some interest while talking about an increased temperature gradient. Metals and liquids move heat faster with higher temps, your goal producing a waterblock is to lower the temps.

Not sure what you're advocating. Higher water temps?

I have an old school block. It's got a lot of copper. Doesn't even have fins, but I bet it weighs as much as yours (within 5%) and within 5c temps a decade plus old.

I'm not sure I understand. If your logic holds, then your old mega block with zero fins would perform better, right? I'm not sure what your liquid loop looks like now, but I'm guessing it has fins.

It seems strange you're arguing that surface area doesn't really matter.

Not assuming, knowing. There's a difference.
If there is space between the fins and the top plate, the water will take this path if it's greater than between the fins.
Water flowing through the fins will slow down from the friction against the fins.

The assumption then is there is a space between the fins and top plate. No waterblock has that space open. We definitely don't. Jet plates press down on that area.

Also, our fins are polished super smooth on the sides (impossible to see, of course) but the friction still wouldn't matter nearly enough to outweigh the massive increase in surface area from microfins.

I'd beg to differ and offer my lid-less PGA 2700x as proof this claim is totally false.
What are you basing this on? After all, you removed the copper IHS to achieve better performance. Less copper = better.

Pretty efficient design example, thank you.

So also strengthens the point of traditional waterblock cooling. Your only adding surface area inside a small water chamber. This does not utilize all of the copper effectively.
Then put Acrylic on top which is an insulator, while copper is never an insulator. It will absorb the heat and most evenly disperse this heat over most other metals.

With copper on copper blocks, some heat transfer and dissipation is lost from the bottom half to the top while there is a lack of a thermal interface material, perhaps some thermal padding to increase conductivity between the two halfs, then a fan on top like the one in the link there.

It's sad to solely rely on traditional waterblock designs. Most of them far from impressive in the sense that they are all basically the same.
Some use this fin count, some use just a small plate, some full copper..... but all of them actually utilize a small portion of the copper to water transfer.

So basically you're saying to add an air cooler on top of an all copper waterblock? Yes, that would improve surface area. And surface area matters. It sounds though like you don't believe water cooling surface area matters, only air cooling surface area?
 
D

Deleted member 185158

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So many divided quotes, I'll refrain from picking too much here and there.

The picture is super awesome for reference to my point.

You're still cooling yet vertically. The water is on only ONE surface of the 3 dimensions see. You'd not running water over any other of the 6 in total surfaces of the cold plate.

That is what I mean by 2D cooling, you are literally using only one surface of 6 surfaces.

Hopefully this enlightens what I'm trying to point out.

_______________

I really like the cold plate size. I understand fully the accomplishment. I am not in any way trying to bash the waterblock, I'd love to have one trust me.

______________

So now the deal with surface area. I'll give you generously, a design I've always wanted to design myself, but lack the funding and resources.

A simple Cube design with Honey comb passages vs the traditional cold plate flat style with some radiator fins. This would greatly increase the surface area water to copper contact. 50mm x 50mm by 30-40mm tall with my silly imagination.

Hopefully I am not disrespecting you in any way. Not my intentions.

What are you basing this on? After all, you removed the copper IHS to achieve better performance. Less copper = better.

On the contrary. I REPLACED the IHS plate for a larger plate. Nearly the same dimensions as yours. My TEC cooling experiences help me define what a good amount of cooper would be.

Unlike most all users, that use additional copper as well. This is called stacking. The loss and difference in performance is a lot from transfer slowed by use of solder then IHS plate, then TIM, then waterblock. It becomes a slowed down process to any amount of copper when you stack it. This is an issue with all waterblocks.

But since nobody is running naked..... It doesn't really matter. You all are stuck to using multiple plates of cooper. No way around it. So nobody is actually ever using less copper. ever.

If mass didn't matter, Aluminum would do just as well. But obviously... lacks mass/density (and conductivity although not bad considering)
 
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Optimus Water Cooling

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Hey no worries, happy to discuss crazy liquid cooling ideas and Optimus products, my two favorite things :D :D

And your idea sounds cool. I'm sure the engineers/machinists just had a heart attack, seems super challenging to make!
 
D

Deleted member 185158

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Hey no worries, happy to discuss crazy liquid cooling ideas and Optimus products, my two favorite things :D :D

And your idea sounds cool. I'm sure the engineers/machinists just had a heart attack, seems super challenging to make!

Hey thanks, I really appreciate that. Really do.

Not sure exactly the go about way of doing it. For a lot of my thoughts, I have all these crazy ideas and nobody to really talk to about them. In many cases, I find my self looking at nature and try to implement that into my PC cooling projects.

For example, I use tap to drain liquid cooling. No radiators pumps, fans.... just 8c water flow at the flick of a faucet. I've found it to be very economical for competitive benchmarking (It's main use).

Would it knock your socks off if I told you I'm using the stock cooler with a naked chip??
 

Optimus Water Cooling

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Hey thanks, I really appreciate that. Really do.

Not sure exactly the go about way of doing it. For a lot of my thoughts, I have all these crazy ideas and nobody to really talk to about them. In many cases, I find my self looking at nature and try to implement that into my PC cooling projects.

For example, I use tap to drain liquid cooling. No radiators pumps, fans.... just 8c water flow at the flick of a faucet. I've found it to be very economical for competitive benchmarking (It's main use).

Would it knock your socks off if I told you I'm using the stock cooler with a naked chip??

Yeah, lots of crazy ideas, no doubt we have tons that didn't turn into anything. But it's a fun hobby, always changing :)
 
D

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Yeah, lots of crazy ideas, no doubt we have tons that didn't turn into anything. But it's a fun hobby, always changing :)

Well another crazy idea was to design a cold plate where the IHS plate recessed into it, the plate just a mm or two off the PCB and line that portion with felt.

The idea is to utilize the TIM pushout and make contact to the IHS plate to cold plate surfaces on 5 sides rather than one.

That one would be super easy to do with basic machining. But you know what? All these years, water blocks are all the same. Utilizing a single side (or two rather) to transfer any of the heat from the IHS plate. So in design, you'd be needing to have additional copper to accommodate utilization of 5 surfaces to cool.

Just crazy stupid silly outrageous ideas I tell ya...... But so simple, It'd probably just might work..... but no one's tired much "outside the box thinking" through the years.

It's always this AIO fad that drives me up a wall lol.

The Optimus water block has enough copper for me to give a thumbs up without ever trying one. Love the additional increase in water to plate surface area. I'd put it against any other top block made of the same materials and don't even need to try it out ;)
 
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Definitely don't agree here :) RGBs sell blocks, marketing sells blocks, cannot see how BTU numbers would mean anything to average buyers. If technical numbers sold blocks, then the industry would look really different (a lot less rainbow bright). Also, I think we've explained why our blocks work pretty well: more surface area = better performance.

i feel that RGB sells blocks on the mainstream manufacturers sites and general PC gear sites, however once a user moves away from those 'general purpose' sites their requirements shifts as well. Whilst RGB added to a product without impacting performance is a good marketing point, it is not a 'given'. Many do not want the hassle of extra wiring / cable management, extra point of failure (raystorm anyone?). I also feel that once a user visits a specialist manufacturer's site they expect to see technical data and are put off from buying if they don't see it.

Example: unless a site show airflow And static pressure data for a fan it either gets dismissed by myself, or I will try to find out from elsewhere before I even consider placing it on a 'maybe list'.

I've sourced a generic metal AMD AM4 backplate bracket cheaply enough, to see if the threading can be used with your posts. Even if it doesn't I have a local precision engineers that are happy to accept 'beer money' jobs and get them to drill out the threads in the backplate.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

An interesting report that I came across BTW


And another showing coldplate coverage

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/dwywev
1581139624740.png


1581139669282.png
 

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The block is copper, it is the bracket that is made from cnc'd alluminium

Wouldn't the bracket be better of being steel ?.
 
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Wouldn't the bracket be better of being steel ?.

from their page "the Foundation block uses a 1/4" (6.3mm) CNC aluminum mounting plate, rather than stamped steel. This allows high pressure and accuracy when securing the block. "
 
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My opinion onto the block material, size, mass and surface area is that the main goal and principal is to pass heat from die to water.
Copper while is high heat transfer material is way lower than water. You don’t need high mass block but high surface area to rapidly transfer heat to water. I can agree that acrylic top is not the best and I prefer to be all copper. But in order for the top of the block to work as dissipation surface, to water(downward) and to air(upward and sideways) one must find a way to send heat up there around water chamber. Increasing the cold plate mass is no guarantee that this will work.
I mean that if the increased in mass cold plate is heated enough in order to pass heat from 4 sides towards the top, it would instantly mean less heat gradient between silicon and cold plate.

You need high temp gradient ONLY by keeping cold plate as cold as possible. That mean in an ideal world that there would be no heat left behind by water to start passing through the 4 sides towards the top.

Given the size of the ZEN2 chiplets going lidless even making things worst from spreading heat perspective (to the 4 sides of cold plate). You have high concentration of heat right under the fins. Increasing the surface (fins) right on top of the die is the only way to go.

Using IHS will help spreading heat towards the sides of cold plate but still the best way is take that heat away, right from the cold plate before it starts soak and pass through the sides to the top. More surface (fins) on the entire IHS is the best way.

I really don’t know how much coldplate area the other blocks have for fins but if you make smaller channels but increase their number to analogy or even greater (to compensate the per channel turbulence) the flow of a block should not be affected, at least negatively.

Conclusion for me...
Thinnest possible coldplate on the IHS and high as possible channels/fins to the entire inner surface of it. Achieve inner surface fins/channels) temps closest as possible to water is ideal to keep temp gradient as high as possible for heat to transfer quickly.
TIM with the thinnest layer as possible with the highest heat transfer as possible (see liquid metal).

EDIT:

What I believe and state above is for "normal" applications of water cooling.
Insert a TEC between CPU and cold plate and all this need re-evaluation. Using a TEC means that the heat towards cold plate could double or even more. Then yes I agree that a special made block is a requirement. One that will use all inside and outside surface for dissipation, because size of coldplate of normal socket like AM4 is rather small to absorb and dissipate on water 250W or 450W depending the TEC in use.

Threadripper's dissipated heat to those (TEC) levels of 250~300++W while it seems like you will need that special made block I mention above, lets not forget that the IHS and cold plate size is at least doubled from AM4, so a full and dense fin/channel inner surface coldplate is the best way. Like AM4. Again using TEC is another story...

I wonder what would be the result of using a large TEC on top of AM4, and under a Theadripper block...
Mount would be an issue I presume.
 
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D

Deleted member 185158

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My opinion onto the block material, size, mass and surface area is that the main goal and principal is to pass heat from die to water.
Copper while is high heat transfer material is way lower than water. You don’t need high mass block but high surface area to rapidly transfer heat to water. I can agree that acrylic top is not the best and I prefer to be all copper. But in order for the top of the block to work as dissipation surface, to water(downward) and to air(upward and sideways) one must find a way to send heat up there around water chamber. Increasing the cold plate mass is no guarantee that this will work.
I mean that if the increased in mass cold plate is heated enough in order to pass heat from 4 sides towards the top, it would instantly mean less heat gradient between silicon and cold plate.

You need high temp gradient ONLY by keeping cold plate as cold as possible. That mean in an ideal world that there would be no heat left behind by water to start passing through the 4 sides towards the top.

Given the size of the ZEN2 chiplets going lidless even making things worst from spreading heat perspective (to the 4 sides of cold plate). You have high concentration of heat right under the fins. Increasing the surface (fins) right on top of the die is the only way to go.

Using IHS will help spreading heat towards the sides of cold plate but still the best way is take that heat away, right from the cold plate before it starts soak and pass through the sides to the top. More surface (fins) on the entire IHS is the best way.

I really don’t know how much coldplate area the other blocks have for fins but if you make smaller channels but increase their number to analogy or even greater (to compensate the per channel turbulence) the flow of a block should not be affected, at least negatively.

Conclusion for me...
Thinnest possible coldplate on the IHS and high as possible channels/fins to the entire inner surface of it. Achieve inner surface fins/channels) temps closest as possible to water is ideal to keep temp gradient as high as possible for heat to transfer quickly.
TIM with the thinnest layer as possible with the highest heat transfer as possible (see liquid metal).

EDIT:

What I believe and state above is for "normal" applications of water cooling.
Insert a TEC between CPU and cold plate and all this need re-evaluation. Using a TEC means that the heat towards cold plate could double or even more. Then yes I agree that a special made block is a requirement. One that will use all inside and outside surface for dissipation, because size of coldplate of normal socket like AM4 is rather small to absorb and dissipate on water 250W or 450W depending the TEC in use.

Threadripper's dissipated heat to those (TEC) levels of 250~300++W while it seems like you will need that special made block I mention above, lets not forget that the IHS and cold plate size is at least doubled from AM4, so a full and dense fin/channel inner surface coldplate is the best way. Like AM4. Again using TEC is another story...

I wonder what would be the result of using a large TEC on top of AM4, and under a Theadripper block...
Mount would be an issue I presume.

Additional surface area is good.

Will ambient water with additional surface area going to be THAT much better?
Not really. End cooling is the atmosphere.
We are talking a few degree in temp difference between most high end water blocks.
Same thing with thermal paste.

And result to a water loop is the ambient air temps.

Nothing else becomes impressive just for that sole reason.

You are only considering the water block surface are and the liquid that touches it.

But theres a lot of stored BTU in the liquid which needs dissipation also.

End result still.... Atmosphere.

The AMD IHS plate hasnt changed since socket 754. The difference now is all the chips are soldered.

TEC cooling is different. We are not trying to remove a heat but rather apply it.

Still rely on capability to cool the TEC. This phase change process is still the same , must remove BTU in order to phase change. A good heavy water block on the hot side of the TEC is required.
 
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I was in the market for a new AMD block as I was needing another one for an additional Ryzen 3000 series setup. Performance PC was running a Superbowl discount code over the weekend and I stumbled across the "new to me" Optimus water-cooling blocks on Monday. I decided to try one out and placed an order for one which ended up going to back-order status. Additional stock came in and PPC shipped the order out on Wednesday and it arrived in the mail today. :)

I'll probably match this new block up to a 3950X and ASRock X570 Taichi. I'm not quite sure about the radiator size? It will be either a thick 420, a thick 360 or a thin 400? I may have to swap some parts around... The other water blocks on my Ryzen setups are an older original Raystorm and a more recent Alphacool Eisblock XPX and a Corsair XC7. I also have some various older blocks from previous pc generations but they are not with AM4 compatible mounts.




 
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Looks great!

Do let us all know how you get on Please!

Bit of fun
lapping a 3970x

 
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Additional surface area is good.

Will ambient water with additional surface area going to be THAT much better?
Not really. End cooling is the atmosphere.
We are talking a few degree in temp difference between most high end water blocks.
Same thing with thermal paste.

And result to a water loop is the ambient air temps.

Nothing else becomes impressive just for that sole reason.

You are only considering the water block surface are and the liquid that touches it.

But theres a lot of stored BTU in the liquid which needs dissipation also.

End result still.... Atmosphere.

The AMD IHS plate hasnt changed since socket 754. The difference now is all the chips are soldered.

TEC cooling is different. We are not trying to remove a heat but rather apply it.

Still rely on capability to cool the TEC. This phase change process is still the same , must remove BTU in order to phase change. A good heavy water block on the hot side of the TEC is required.
Yes, in conventional cooling the end is the atmosphere/ambient. And the goal is to have coldplate as close as possible to ambient temp. High surfaced coldplate but thin as possible, high water flow and high surfaced radiator with fast fans to keep water with less stored heat as possible. 1+1=2 its that simple...
 
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Yes, in conventional cooling the end is the atmosphere/ambient. And the goal is to have coldplate as close as possible to ambient temp. High surfaced coldplate but thin as possible, high water flow and high surfaced radiator with fast fans to keep water with less stored heat as possible. 1+1=2 its that simple...

Interesting.

So really it's not about the water block so much as it is getting the water delta lowered as much as possible.

I better understand how ambient water cooling works now!!!

The water block matters less than people expect and thus why AIO coolers are so popular at the given price range.

Thanks for that incite, I never thought about it that way before.
 
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I mounted the AMD Foundation block to a previous test bed system yesterday. I swapped out an older Swiftech Apogee XT water block for the new Optimus block. Flushed the system, mounted the block and refilled with fresh distilled water. Radiator is a Phobya Xtreme 400 (thin) along with a Swiftech MCP655 pump.




 

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I mounted the AMD Foundation block to a previous test bed system yesterday. I swapped out an older Swiftech Apogee XT water block for the new Optimus block. Flushed the system, mounted the block and refilled with fresh distilled water. Radiator is a Phobya Xtreme 400 (thin) along with a Swiftech MCP655 pump.

Love the CorkBench, definitely pro level, no time here for cases :)

How do those numbers compare to previous results?
 
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Interesting.

So really it's not about the water block so much as it is getting the water delta lowered as much as possible.

I better understand how ambient water cooling works now!!!

The water block matters less than people expect and thus why AIO coolers are so popular at the given price range.

Thanks for that incite, I never thought about it that way before.
Keeping water/ambient delta lower instantly means water/silicon delta high = higher gradient = higher heat transfer between silicon and water. The problem is to preserve low water temp because of the low gradient between water and ambient. You need a rad long enough, with the right surface and fans to keep water as close as possible to ambient on its exit.

But for sure this is not all of it. Everything is important. Block, flow, rad and the forsaken by many... TIM.

Heat by nature wants to travel to material with less heat and be equalized. Temp delta is one of the factors for this “movement“. The other is the thermal conductivity of the materials.

Heat is transfered through a material from point A(one side) to B(other side).
A=70C to B=30C
This will transfer heat by X amount depending on the thermal conductivity and surface between sides.

Reducing delta of A and B by half (20C instead of 40C) but change the material with one with doubled conductivity and same surface will result the same heat transfer.

This is why when I change my old normal paste with liquid metal my water temp got up by ~2 degrees but CPU temp has drop by ~3C. Fan speed the same. Increasing fan speed drop water by 1C and CPU temp another 2C.

To keep reducing CPU temp now I need a better block(higher water surface), and larger rad. To increase heat transfer from IHS to water, and then from water to ambient to keep it as low as possible.
 
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Keeping water/ambient delta lower instantly means water/silicon delta high = higher gradient = higher heat transfer between silicon and water. The problem is to preserve low water temp because of the low gradient between water and ambient. You need a rad long enough, with the right surface and fans to keep water as close as possible to ambient on its exit.

But for sure this is not all of it. Everything is important. Block, flow, rad and the forsaken by many... TIM.

Heat by nature wants to travel to material with less heat and be equalized. Temp delta is one of the factors for this “movement“. The other is the thermal conductivity of the materials.

Heat is transfered through a material from point A(one side) to B(other side).
A=70C to B=30C
This will transfer heat by X amount depending on the thermal conductivity and surface between sides.

Reducing delta of A and B by half (20C instead of 40C) but change the material with one with doubled conductivity and same surface will result the same heat transfer.

This is why when I change my old normal paste with liquid metal my water temp got up by ~2 degrees but CPU temp has drop by ~3C. Fan speed the same. Increasing fan speed drop water by 1C and CPU temp another 2C.

To keep reducing CPU temp now I need a better block(higher water surface), and larger rad. To increase heat transfer from IHS to water, and then from water to ambient to keep it as low as possible.

20c? No I'm around 8c water Delta. It's pretty constant. I don't see 2c swings from evening to evening. Great for testing purposes.

My atmosphere reliant liquid cooling system is null and void for my uses.

All my AMD rigs clock the same on Air, liquid ambient, and liquid chilled, and TEC chilled. I was able to find the greatest reduction in processor leakage going with much colder and pretty consistent temps.
The same thermal paste was used in all the testing.
Tested 3 cold plate sizes on naked chips, with and without the IHS plate. Very different outcomes.

2c drop in any temps to me is nothing. Let me adjust my furnace by 4f. I don't care what waterblock or TIM you guys use really. There's really no stable figures here.
Dude in canada is 10c cooler in temps then the identical system build in Texas lol.

Anyhoot. It's fun. I love liquid cooling. Bucket of Ice water and my Apogee block kick some ass lol.

I gotta go.
You guys stay sharp!!
Be well and take care of each other.
 
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This is slightly related, in that it is about hard tubing. An interesting tool is used here and I don't know if any of you have considered it, it is a Harbor Freight "DRILL MASTER" 2 Inch Mini Bench Top Cut-Off Saw, for cutting tubes properly and it only costs $35 / £35

 
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20c? No I'm around 8c water Delta. It's pretty constant. I don't see 2c swings from evening to evening. Great for testing purposes.

My atmosphere reliant liquid cooling system is null and void for my uses.

All my AMD rigs clock the same on Air, liquid ambient, and liquid chilled, and TEC chilled. I was able to find the greatest reduction in processor leakage going with much colder and pretty consistent temps.
The same thermal paste was used in all the testing.
Tested 3 cold plate sizes on naked chips, with and without the IHS plate. Very different outcomes.

2c drop in any temps to me is nothing. Let me adjust my furnace by 4f. I don't care what waterblock or TIM you guys use really. There's really no stable figures here.
Dude in canada is 10c cooler in temps then the identical system build in Texas lol.

Anyhoot. It's fun. I love liquid cooling. Bucket of Ice water and my Apogee block kick some ass lol.

I gotta go.
You guys stay sharp!!
Be well and take care of each other.
Well that 40C/20C delta was just for reference to express my understanding and knowledge of heat dissipation and extraction.
And talking about the 2~3C reduction was also into the explanation of how things work. Wasnt stating my "achievement"... cause there isnt any!
I hope you didnt miss the point.
Using TEC in between CPU and block its not all that different exept for the temps produced by the cold/hot sides, or by using a bucket of ice to dip the rad. The principles are exactly the same. Using sub ambient temp cooling is just for increasing deltas... increasing heat transfer.

This is slightly related, in that it is about hard tubing. An interesting tool is used here and I don't know if any of you have considered it, it is a Harbor Freight "DRILL MASTER" 2 Inch Mini Bench Top Cut-Off Saw, for cutting tubes properly and it only costs $35 / £35

I've been watching Paul since the biginning of this project... So wierd case...
 
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I've been watching Paul since the biginning of this project... So wierd case...


it is, not sure why he agreed to use it?

Elaborating on how lower temperatures can improve voltage tolerance.

 
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