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Ryzen Owners Zen Garden

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I think these chips are essentially thermally limited most.
Not sure if you're running in Asynchronous mode which it sounds like but that has a detrimental effect on latency. That board has a setting called PE1,2,3 etc.. Performance Enhancer is a pretty effective solution for raising all core boost, so are the PBO settings in advanced>AMD CBS section. Try playing around with these to raise all core and raising the BCLK afterward in synced mode will raise all your boost clocks even the max when using the PE settings
So i should set it to auto clock essentially then up bclk I have and much more besides , ill try everything a fair few times tbh just to see and thats not how it works as is its boosting all cores to 4.235 and the odd one beyond that to 4.35 i think but not many are ever hitting that.
I too seam to be thermally limited, i can run a higher core then i can maintain , when a core temp goes much beyond 71 it throttles or locks up more often ,i am however testing and looking into it but its like my monoblock just isnt extracting heat quick enough, i am going to work on fan speeds etc see how that goes.

to be fair i can game at high clocks its just the odd lockup say 32 hours in crunching and folding on the system listed.

question on P states , looks complex but reading up quite straight forward but is this P0 the Base clock ,all core boost or Sc boost clock ?
 
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P0 will be your highest all core OC, I haven't tried it on my new board so not sure if the boost will still go higher on 2 cores but I don't think it does. I put together a guide here for the CHVI you'll also need a hex converter https://www.overclockers.com/forums...air-VI-P-State-modification-for-power-savings

I think these chips are essentially thermally limited most.

So i should set it to auto clock essentially then up bclk I have and much more besides , ill try everything a fair few times tbh just to see and thats not how it works as is its boosting all cores to 4.235 and the odd one beyond that to 4.35 i think but not many are ever hitting that.
I too seam to be thermally limited, i can run a higher core then i can maintain , when a core temp goes much beyond 71 it throttles or locks up more often ,i am however testing and looking into it but its like my monoblock just isnt extracting heat quick enough, i am going to work on fan speeds etc see how that goes.

to be fair i can game at high clocks its just the odd lockup say 32 hours in crunching and folding on the system listed.

question on P states , looks complex but reading up quite straight forward but is this P0 the Base clock ,all core boost or Sc boost clock ?
 
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@Johan45: And pretty much everyone that played with P-States, i know i'm interested the most in tweaking P0 states only, leaving the rest @ Auto (atleast that's the info I gathered throughout the web); now, say, in combination with "regular" OC'ing i did through GB's M.I.T. section, exactly how do i tweak P0 states? Previously i set P0 to manual & that's it; it was when i still had 1700X, how far do i go with 2700X? I know it can be pain in the arse/ass but when doing it wisely(?) it can be golden? I really wanna stabilize OC til next weekend, Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut should arrive by then. Cheers, thanx in advance. :toast:
 
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The main reason I found on X370/Ryzen 1XXX to use the P-State was to maintain downvolting and speed drop when PC was idle. On second Gen using PBO works just as well, the main reason I haven't messed with it.
Gigabyte BIOS is unfamiliar territory for me. I really don't like their set-up so I don't use them daily. If I have one I sell it first but on ASUS it's under the advanced section, then a heading called AMD CBS P-State control is in that menu. In yours i'D CHECK THE ADVANCE cpu SETTINGS c-STATE CONTROL OR MAYBE BOOST CONTROL NOT SURE
 
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I know it already @Johan45, i meant the stuff that opens up once you set P0 state to manual, the VID, the PID or however these called - do you or anyone here familiar with this stuff? BTW: It's in Peripherals section/tab/header of my mobo's BIOS, for some strange reason. :)
 
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That guide I linked earlier might help. If it's the same as ASUS then the values used are HEX values and you need to find an appropriate replacement for your CPU's multi there's a formula to figure that out. I would just use offset voltage and not bother with that in this section.
 

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I know it already @Johan45, i meant the stuff that opens up once you set P0 state to manual, the VID, the PID or however these called - do you or anyone here familiar with this stuff? BTW: It's in Peripherals section/tab/header of my mobo's BIOS, for some strange reason. :)

i've seen that on my x370 board, you have to use hex code to enter things so say, 9E would be accepted
Honestly its a nightmare, the max clocks i could enter were far lower than my turbo anyway - this is why i want x470/x570? and use PBO
 
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i've seen that on my x370 board, you have to use hex code to enter things so say, 9E would be accepted
Honestly its a nightmare, the max clocks i could enter were far lower than my turbo anyway - this is why i want x470/x570? and use PBO
I found it gave a better all core OC, might be different with a second gen since they boost to 4.0 anyway well the "X" variants do.
 

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Got a decent deal today at Microcenter

Paid $206 for CPU, Board, and Corsair Mount Kit
D63341A1-393B-402C-9D0C-FA8E34E05AAA.jpeg
 
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I want those kind of deals here...
I'm at 103MHz BCLK, and the RAM at 3044 16-16-16-39. Will test the next RAM step as well.
 

Durvelle27

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Nice score on the bundled deal.
Definitely was

I wish I was off a few days ago. It would have been even cheaper. The CPU was $129.99 plus $30 off any board. Everything would have came out to $170

Now just trying to source some ram
 
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The flareX was on sale 3200 CL14 it's the easiest RAM to work with. Probably still costs as much as the whole bundle
 

Durvelle27

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The flareX was on sale 3200 CL14 it's the easiest RAM to work with. Probably still costs as much as the whole bundle
last i checked it was like above $169

Also how are you liking your 1070Ti
 
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last i checked it was like above $169

Also how are you liking your 1070Ti
It's a decent GPU but was more than I needed for 1080p gaming. I have swapped it for an RX 580 leaving the HTPC all AMD based.
Looks Like I need to update my system specs.
 

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Story time.

I was doing 2667 with 18-20-20-38-CR1 @ 1.35V (can't ask for much more from a dual-rank 32 GB kit). AGESA 1.0.0.6 update gave me a free pass to 2667 from 2400. I wanted more, given that Intel platform users easily pull 3200+ from these kind of timings (even with 2R kits). So I politely asked Ryzen master "icanhaz 1400?". I clicked on "profile 1," copied from "current" (so the timings and voltages are carried over), and dialed up DRAM clock, and "Apply." EZPZ, right?

Then the motherboard refused to boot. Normally when a Ryzen Master memory OC fails, the board resets the machine some 6-7 times over, and starts with failsafe settings. This time around, there was no such reboot loop. Not scared yet. I peek into the case and see that among the four diagnostic LEDs, the "CPU" LED is glowing. "Huh" I said, powered down, and pushed the Clear-CMOS button.

Here's where it gets scary. The machine continues to play dead with the "CPU" diag LED glowing, and no failsafe-seeking reboot loop. The machine now has my full attention. I try the Clear-CMOS thingie 3 times over. I know the Clear-CMOS button registers because each time I press it, the "CMOS Cleared" LED glows.

"Fvck...did I just brick my processor?" "DAAMMM YOU HYYNIXXX!" "Weekend ruined, time to order a new board" <<<some of the things going through my mind.

I then try a cold reboot. Turn off the PSU, wait 1 minute for capacitors to flush, turn PSU back on, and push power button. NO Luck "OMG I HAVE DISHONORED MY FAMILY, TIME TO FIND A KATANA"

Wife calls from her work just to catch up/small-talk/yap. I'm trying hard to keep a bold tone because she can hear trouble in my voice with the skill of a CIA veteran.

While distracted in the call, my eye turns to the F1 button. Universally, F1 is HALP. I was like "wth, let's try this one too." So I hold down F1 and push the power button.

LO AND BEHOLD, the failsafe-seeking reboot loop is BACK. 7 reboots later, machine boots to failsafe state. I go to BIOS, and simply restore the 2667 OC profile I had saved before this fiasco, and now we're fresh out of wine in the house.

Fin.

Lessons learned: Don't buy Ryzen if you don't have/want Samsung B-die memory; don't buy a motherboard without a real POST code readout; Don't use Ryzen Master.
 
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I just hit it with a clear cmos and wait a couple of minutes to let her compose herself, it didn't scare me like that.
Except for the first boot, it seems current motherboards are set as UEFI boot as default, and I had an old HD7750 (BIOS only), it took some 5 minutes to do he first boot, all the time with the CPU and GPU status led on.
I still can't believe I can push 3333 MHz out of these old Micron 2400MHz chips.
 
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Story time.

Lessons learned: Don't buy Ryzen if you don't have/want Samsung B-die memory; don't buy a motherboard without a real POST code readout; Don't use Ryzen Master.
Glad you managed to dig out of that one, I highlighted the big culprit
Between Win10 and RM they dig so far into the BIOS I have had to Flash it to get it going again. I have only used it a few times for reviews or guides and even with Samsung and a debug readout it still thoroughly trashed things on me. Not as bad as what you described but it has made the BIOS unuseable/responsive any changes would crash the system until RM was removed and BIOS reflashed.
 
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i've seen that on my x370 board, you have to use hex code to enter things so say, 9E would be accepted
Honestly its a nightmare, the max clocks i could enter were far lower than my turbo anyway - this is why i want x470/x570? and use PBO

So you basically saying tweak the "regular" stuff in M.I.T. (vCore, SoC, etc... ) & forget the AMD CBS altogether, yeah? It was a nightmare for me as well, for a life of me, so many BSODs & boot loops on my part, it was beyond ridiculous. Thanx regardless, cheers.
 
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Thats craaazy. I use RM for messing with CPU clocks/voltage all of the time. Never saw any point in the RAM features though. You have to reboot anyway so at that point you might as well work from the BIOS. I can see how doing that OS side could be hitchy.
 

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Mouse Logitech G502 | Logitech M330
Keyboard HyperX Alloy Core RGB | Built in Keyboard (Lenovo laptop KB FTW)
Software Windows 11 Pro x64 | Windows 11 Home x64
TBH I haven't messed with anything this week. Been too busy with work and other stuff. But with PBO, I do see regular 4.35 boosts at lower loads on 2 cores, and 4-4.1 boost at mid to somewhat heavy loads on all cores, then 4.0-4.05 on super heavy loads on all cores...sometimes dipping into 3.95 territory. I would like to boost all core clocks to 4.1 at the heaviest loads...hoping to have time this weekend to see if I can accomplish that.

Was really hoping BCLK would work better with the modded BIOS for that, but again, going over 100.60 puts the system into OC mode which disables PBO and XFR2.
 

Durvelle27

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System Name Black Prometheus
Processor |AMD Ryzen 7 1700
Motherboard ASRock B550M Pro4|MSI X370 Gaming PLUS
Cooling Thermalright PA120 SE | AMD Stock Cooler
Memory G.Skill 64GB(2x32GB) 3200MHz | 32GB(4x8GB) DDR4
Video Card(s) ASUS DirectCU II R9 290 4GB
Storage Sandisk X300 512GB + WD Black 6TB+WD Black 6TB
Display(s) LG Nanocell85 49" 4K 120Hz + ACER AOPEN 34" 3440x1440 144Hz
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Audio Device(s) LG Dolby Atmos 5.1
Power Supply Corsair RMX850 Fully Modular| EVGA 750W G2
Mouse Logitech Trackman
Keyboard Logitech K350
Software Windows 10 EDU x64
Do you guys think a Aesetek 550 is enough for the Ryzen 7 1700X
 

Durvelle27

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
6,798 (1.49/day)
Location
Memphis, TN
System Name Black Prometheus
Processor |AMD Ryzen 7 1700
Motherboard ASRock B550M Pro4|MSI X370 Gaming PLUS
Cooling Thermalright PA120 SE | AMD Stock Cooler
Memory G.Skill 64GB(2x32GB) 3200MHz | 32GB(4x8GB) DDR4
Video Card(s) ASUS DirectCU II R9 290 4GB
Storage Sandisk X300 512GB + WD Black 6TB+WD Black 6TB
Display(s) LG Nanocell85 49" 4K 120Hz + ACER AOPEN 34" 3440x1440 144Hz
Case DeepCool Matrexx 55 V3 w/ 6x120mm Intake + 3x120mm Exhaust
Audio Device(s) LG Dolby Atmos 5.1
Power Supply Corsair RMX850 Fully Modular| EVGA 750W G2
Mouse Logitech Trackman
Keyboard Logitech K350
Software Windows 10 EDU x64
Or a Corsair H70
 
Joined
May 22, 2013
Messages
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System Name Gamer/ HTPC
Processor AMD Ryzen 5 2600
Motherboard ROG Crosshair VI
Cooling Alphacool Eisbaer 420 AIO
Memory G.Skill TridentZ RGB 2x8GB 3333 CL14
Video Card(s) Gigabyte Aorus RX 580
Storage Corsair Neutron 480 GB
Display(s) Samsung 42" 1080p
Case Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass
Power Supply Corsair 750
Software Win10 Pro
Benchmark Scores http://hwbot.org/user/johan45/
Any decent air cooler will work. If AIO I'd go for a double rad anyway
 

Durvelle27

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
6,798 (1.49/day)
Location
Memphis, TN
System Name Black Prometheus
Processor |AMD Ryzen 7 1700
Motherboard ASRock B550M Pro4|MSI X370 Gaming PLUS
Cooling Thermalright PA120 SE | AMD Stock Cooler
Memory G.Skill 64GB(2x32GB) 3200MHz | 32GB(4x8GB) DDR4
Video Card(s) ASUS DirectCU II R9 290 4GB
Storage Sandisk X300 512GB + WD Black 6TB+WD Black 6TB
Display(s) LG Nanocell85 49" 4K 120Hz + ACER AOPEN 34" 3440x1440 144Hz
Case DeepCool Matrexx 55 V3 w/ 6x120mm Intake + 3x120mm Exhaust
Audio Device(s) LG Dolby Atmos 5.1
Power Supply Corsair RMX850 Fully Modular| EVGA 750W G2
Mouse Logitech Trackman
Keyboard Logitech K350
Software Windows 10 EDU x64
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