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The TPU Darkroom - Digital SLR and Photography Club

@the54thvoid Idk, that stick doesn't look Austrian. Maybe it was just visiting?
 
if it´s not Austrian Noctua beige and brown then it must be an imposter
 
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GoPro hero9 stills
 
Huh, didn't know we had them here. Was busy mowing a grown up lot and saw that massive bugger.
 
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ID this sucker. About 5 cm long (2 inches) including legs.

Pixel 8 pro, zoomed up some.
Shows how "good" phone cameras really are. Reviews are singing nothing but praises for the Pixel 8 Pro, yet here it is, happily back focusing on a not too heavy scene.
 
What? It wouldn't stop and say "cheese"? That's crazy.
 
Trying to catch some Dragonflies (is it the correct name in English ? Libellules as we say here).
It's a pretty hard exercise :/
The road is long to be a good wildlife photographer :)
Anyway, here the shoots :
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I came across this wonderful 66' Shelby Mustang G.T.350H a few days ago at a local car show. Lighting conditions were not the best so I thought it was a good opportunity to use a lens from the same era as the car, the good old Minolta Rokkor 58mm/1.2 for some close-ups. The first pic was taken with my Rokkor 35mm/1.8, all are JPEGs from Sony A9.

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What does the 350H stand for?
 
What does the 350H stand for?
Here is a quote from the book "Shelby Mustang Fifty Years" about the GT350 name:

This new Shelby Mustang needed a name. Carroll Shelby has told the story many times of how the GT350 name came to be. Shelby wasn’t enamored with the name “Cobra-Mustang” that Ford had been tossing around. Nor was he impressed with any other names that his team kicked around, like “Mustang Gran Sport” and “Skunk.” In fact, he wasn’t really concerned with naming the car at all, but Ford needed a name for legal and marketing reasons. According to Shelby, nobody could agree on any of the many names thrown about, and in one of numerous meetings held on the subject, Shelby, no doubt frustrated with corporate politics, turned to Phil Remington and asked him what the distance between the race and production shops at Shelby American was. Remington’s response was “about three hundred and fifty feet,” to which Shelby said, “That’s what we’ll call it–GT350.”

Shelby’s reasoning for such a hasty decision? “The name wouldn’t make the car, and if it is a bad car, the name won’t save it.”

A generic alphanumeric name that signified nothing also had practical applications: Shelby could upgrade and improve the car whenever it wanted without having to change the name and let the competition know what it was up to.



And the H letter stands for Hertz, as these cars with this color scheme were exclusively sold to them for their rent-a-racer program. Back in the day, Hertz made sensible decisions instead of losing half a Billion $ by investing in EV turds that nobody wants.

https://www.mustangspecs.com/1966-shelby-mustang-gt350-h/
 
I seen this spider chilling on the flower the other day, so I quickly ran in, got my macro lens and took a few pics.

R5 w/ RF 100mm F2.8L

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I seen this spider chilling on the flower the other day, so I quickly ran in, got my macro lens and took a few pics.

R5 w/ RF 100mm F2.8L

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Man, I have a lot of questions. Would you happen to have any other examples using the 100mm ƒ2.8 macro? Was that shot wide open? Have you used this for portraits at all? This is a lens that I've had my eye on because... well, there aren't many native RF mount macro lenses that are true macro lenses (I think the 100mm ƒ2.8 is 1.4x,) and I want to stay away from buying EF mount glass when possible.
 
Man, I have a lot of questions. Would you happen to have any other examples using the 100mm ƒ2.8 macro? Was that shot wide open? Have you used this for portraits at all? This is a lens that I've had my eye on because... well, there aren't many native RF mount macro lenses that are true macro lenses (I think the 100mm ƒ2.8 is 1.4x,) and I want to stay away from buying EF mount glass when possible.

So the spider one was 1/400, F11, auto ISO 5000, no flash, hand held. Just the RF lens. I've also been playing around with extension tubes and the Raynox DCR-250 adapter, but not in these samples. I also have the EF 100mm F2.8 (non L), and that is an excellent 1:1 macro for the money, and isn't overly large with the EF to RF adapter.





 
Good to see this thread still going. I am also still going. A couple images from the last few days. The diffuser I make produces some insanely soft light. Very happy with how a crazy idea turned out amazing.
Cheers


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Good to see this thread still going. I am also still going. A couple images from the last few days. The diffuser I make produces some insanely soft light. Very happy with how a crazy idea turned out amazing.
Cheers


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Impressive stuff as always! Is the bug alive?

A few night shots from this weekend with my new (to me) Minolta Rokkor MD 20mm/2.8.

JPEGs from my Sony A9, shot wide open, ISO1000, 30s exposure


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Impressive stuff as always! Is the bug alive?

A few night shots from this weekend with my new (to me) Minolta Rokkor MD 20mm/2.8.

JPEGs from my Sony A9, shot wide open, ISO1000, 30s exposure


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May I make a slight suggestion for astro without a star tracker? Increase the ISO a little bit and drop the shutter speed to 8s. The issue with taking pictures of the stars without a star tracker is that the stars are literally going to be moving in the night sky. You might find that despite the added noise, the sky should be sharper if it's in focus.
 
Impressive stuff as always! Is the bug alive?

A few night shots from this weekend with my new (to me) Minolta Rokkor MD 20mm/2.8.

JPEGs from my Sony A9, shot wide open, ISO1000, 30s exposure


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DSC09881-2.jpg


DSC09895.jpg
TYSM ,Yes. Bug is live. I do not like killing for the sake of a photo.
 
May I make a slight suggestion for astro without a star tracker? Increase the ISO a little bit and drop the shutter speed to 8s. The issue with taking pictures of the stars without a star tracker is that the stars are literally going to be moving in the night sky. You might find that despite the added noise, the sky should be sharper if it's in focus.

Thanks for the feedback, I know these settings are f'd up. They looked like the less worse compromise to me in this situation as there were lots of problems going on using this lens ( it was my first time using it ). At first I noticed a lot of weird color noise in large circular bands alterning from green to purple when I cranked up the ISO. But it should have been obvious to me that it comes from the lens as I've used this camera up to ISO 5000 with relatively clean results. The high gain was just making the bands more noticeable on the camera LCD

However, I couldn't have shot a sharp picture anyway as it seems like the focus is not reaching infinity. While this lens doesn't have the reputation of being super sharp wide open, it shouldn't be as blurred as this and stopping down didn't improve sharpness even in the center so I'll have to investigate that.

I took these photos while camping during an MTB weekend, being the last one awake I found nothing better to do. I initially took this lens to shoot some jump action, although I didn't have much time for that and when I did the lighting was not good. But even here you can see some weird purple/green banding in the sky, I will do more testing but I guess this lens is not really happy on my digital camera.

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TYSM ,Yes. Bug is live. I do not like killing for the sake of a photo.

What gear and setting did you use? The sharpness is insane!

I just got my first real macro lens, a 50 years old Minolta MC macro Rokkor-X QE 100mm f/3.5. Here are some pics from Sunday, I failed to notice some dust behind the rear element, it seems like it's not forgiving with the extension tube. But as it was my first time shooting 1:1, I'm happy with these results.

All shots handheld with my Sony A9, ISO 800, between f/8 and f/16, exp. from 1/400 to 1/800s

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However, I couldn't have shot a sharp picture anyway as it seems like the focus is not reaching infinity.
I've found with my RF glass that focusing out of infinity is actually not the best for things like stars. In fact, it's almost like focusing all the way to infinity is like overshooting the right amount of focus. I usually set my camera up for manual focus when doing stars and I'll use the LCD to zoom in to one particularly pronounced star to focus off of and more often than not, focus is close to infinity, but not quite there.

This is an example from last winter, but this is shooting straight up on a clear night at 8s, ƒ4, ISO 1600 scaled down from the max width of 6240 to 5000px. This was with my 24-105mm ƒ4 L series len.
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That's unprocessed. Now here is where it gets interesting. Using my (arguably,) inferior nifty 50 (50mm ƒ1.8,) I can get something like this at 4s, ƒ2, ISO 800:
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...and with a little bit of post processing of that same image above, you get something like this:
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However, if you look at the edges of the frame with the 50mm ƒ1.8, you can clearly see comatic distortion. It looks like this (from the top left corner):
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Lower quality lenses have this kind of distortion around the edges wide open, but should be pretty sharp near the center of the frame. If you look at the image using the 24-105 ƒ4, you don't have nearly the same level of comatic distortion around the edges. If the center of the frame is blurry, then it's more likely that the subject is out of focus and since stars are so small, even a slight misfocus will make them look blurry. So it's worth taking the time to digitally zoom into a reference star and very slowly adjust focus until it's perfect on the LCD.

If you zoom in and you see something like this, it means your shutter speed is too slow and the stars are moving in the night sky during the shot. (This was at 105mm @ 10s)
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I don't have an example of misfocus handy, but if they don't look elongated near the center, then it's probably misfocus.
 

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