MOMOKA Frog Switches

Knowing how MOMOKA packs the keycap sets, I suppose seeing a similar take on the switches is not a surprise. We once again see a for MOMOKA switches customized box design, in green to contrast with the pink from before. This box is smaller and mentions "Keyswitch" on the front to leave no doubt as to what is inside. Given the smaller size, only side flaps are employed to keep the switches secure in transit, and notice the plastic wrap over the ends of a three-layer packaging. Here too plastic blister trays are used, albeit open ones, with only the top layer having a lid and subsequent layers using the previous layer to keep things closed. On top of each switch layer is a thin foam sheet, and the switches have been placed in individual cutout cells that make it easier to disassemble and mod the switches individually if needed.


The MOMOKA (MMK) Frog switch is what motivated this whole article, with this linear switch having risen to popularity out of nowhere in the enthusiast keyboard community. It is one of the few that lasted the test of time when it comes to switches from smaller outfits, and I did have my fill of questions from readers about this switch to where I simply had to get my hands on it. Interestingly enough, there have at least been four versions of the switch with minimal marking as to the transition. I already know I have the v3 version here, and will explain why shortly. It is impossible to really tell by looking at the exterior, with a translucent polycarbonate upper housing sat upon a light gray, opaque PA66 (polyamide/nylon 66) base housing. The stem/slider is made out of POM (polyoxymethylene)—the materials thus far are top-notch for switch reliability, reproducibility, and longevity.

The stem is turquoise in color, and we see the use of semi-closed columns around the Cherry MX-style stem for added dust and spill resistance in addition to potentially reducing switch wobble. The MOMOKA Frog is a 3-pin mechanical switch with a central plastic pillar and two metal pin contacts for the actuation mechanism itself. There is a cutout in the base for light from an SMD RGB LED to pass through, with an integrated diffuser in the top for more uniform backlighting of keycaps installed on top.


Taking apart one of these switches reveals a similar take on the MX stem-style mechanical switch, and the relatively standard spring is how I know I have the MOMOKA Frog v3 since v4 goes with a two-stage, longer switch from what I know. The stem and slider mold is quite well done, and we see factory lubrication, just enough to where you can feel it in use and no more. The spring is 304-grade stainless steel, referred to as "SUS304" (steel use steel) based on the Japanese grade system, which is once again in line with the company being Japanese. The metal contacts in the nylon base are made out of CuSn4 bronze, and the lube on the slider is claimed to be Krytox GP105, or at least a take on it. A look at the stem confirms the MOMOKA Frog is a linear switch in terms of feedback, so be aware of this lest you prefer tactile or clicky switches. Actuation is no different from other such linear switches, with the bump in the plastic slider pushing the metal contacts together to complete the circuit, which is then read by the USB microcontroller on the PCB.


A combination of the excellent pins on the switches, added contact area to hold the switches by the stem, and Kailh hot-swap sockets meant that installing these switches was a piece of cake. I don't think I had a single bent pin, which is a first. The switch package from MOMOKO included 108 switches, which is plenty enough for a full-size keyboard, with four additional keys, too. This makes for more than required for this 87-key kit, and with all of the sockets filled, these look quite nice in the black, white, and turquoise color scheme.


Given the color of the switches, I paired the first build with the MOMOKA Forest of Elves keycaps. Seen above is the base configuration without any novelty keycaps or off-sized versions given the standard spacing on this TKL kit. The higher profile of the case combined with the low Cherry profile keycaps means you end up with non-floating keycaps, and the switches themselves are invisible in use. I do like the black base that sets a clean canvas for the lighter keycaps to be featured on prominently.


During the switch disassembly, I had noticed that the actuation bump on the MOMOKA Frog contacts was further down than usual. This makes for a linear switch whose actuation is rated at a deep 2.5 mm and an actuation force of 54 cN, with total travel 3.7 mm at a peak force of 62 cN, which means this switch extremely prone to bottoming out and effectively the opposite of a speed switch in that regard—can we call it a slow switch? Regardless, the relatively light-medium force characteristics do not make it fatiguing to use. However, knowing that bottoming out is going to be prominent means planning the rest of the keyboard build around it, especially if you are not one to take kindly to pinging noises. Actual switch travel is quite smooth, with a gradual build-up of resistance from the spring, and the lube is well-applied at the factory.


As always, the sound of a keyboard is based on more than just the switch type. So when comparing sound clips, consider the keyboard as a whole. In this case, I have provided above an example sound clip of me typing on the Skyloon GK87 kit with the MOMOKA Frog switches and Forest of Elves PBT keycaps at ~110 WPM. For context, you can find sound clips from other keyboards here, including those with linear switches. This isn't a quiet build, with the relatively empty case not helping. The foam underneath the space bar, between the plate and PCB there, results in a bassier response from the space bar, but that makes it sound so different from the rest of the keyboard that I am not too fond of the differing tones in use. The keycaps can't help much by themselves as this is a case where the keyboard kit is holding back the switches that by themselves sound quite good. The switches being prone to bottoming out makes this worse, so it is more a bad combination than anything else.