Buttons, Scroll Wheel

Main buttons on the Ironclaw RGB are rather light, tactile, and have next to zero unnecessary travel or play. They feel great and use Omron D2FC-F-K switches that have a nominal lifespan of 50 million clicks.


The scroll wheel on the Ironclaw RGB is rather loose; the steps aren't well defined, and it's easy to scroll through them. I would say this makes it better for browsing, but maybe less ideal for gaming (this is up to personal preference really). The encoder is a 7 mm tall red core Kailh, which is rather surprising as the M65 RGB Elite uses the same encoder and its wheel has a very tactile scrolling feel. I guess a lot depends on the scroll wheel itself, especially its axle that goes inside the encoder's core.


The middle mouse button requires a lot more pressure to click than the main switches as it feels stiffer than the average. Its travel distance is very short, and there is no play whatsoever. The switch used here is a short square switch with an extended plunger.


Side buttons are great on the Ironclaw. They are very nice and tactile with short overall travel and provide quite snappy feedback; however, they seem to have a slightly higher actuation force than most. They use some new, smaller Kailh switches with black plungers.


The CPI buttons have a similar feel than the side buttons, but require a tad less force to actuate and are slightly less snappy. They use the same style of Kailh switches, but with white plungers.

I also made a video in order to demonstrate how the buttons sound:

Mouse Feet

There's protective film on the underside of the mouse you should remove before use. The bottom plate has four differently sized mouse feet that provide a smooth and even glide with medium friction. Unfortunately, there are no replacement feet included, so once these wear out, you'll have to go for aftermarket replacements. Thankfully, you don't need to remove the feet in order to disassemble the mouse; more on that a bit later, under the disassembling section.

Cable

This cable is very thick, heavy, and braided, which pretty much makes it one of the stiffest mouse cables I ever had the chance to try. I would definitely recommend affixing it somehow (with a mouse bungee or some tape) as it has a lot of resistance and can generate a lot of drag on the mouse pad—I hope Corsair won't use such cables in the future. The cable is 1.8 meters long, which should generally be enough for most users.

Disassembling

Disassembling the Ironclaw RGB isn't a very hard task. However, it requires some "special" equipment. You can simply pop the top shell off without the need of destroying any mouse feet during the process. Once removed, four Torx screws are exposed. I could remove these with a simple Philips-head screwdriver, but the screw heads were damaged a bit in the process, so I'd highly recommend using a proper tool. After these are removed, you can simply remove the plate these screws held in place, which exposes the internals.