A Closer Look - Inside

To access to the interior frame of the DarkFlash DLH 21, remove the two thumb screws holding each of the four panels in place. They may then be removed for interior access on all four sides. With the panels off, it becomes pretty apparent that these really add to the structural integrity of the frame, especially if one removes the internal fan bracket as well, as the bare skeleton can be wobbled around gently on its own.


Looking at the bare insides, the area in front is meant for a long GPU, with enough room for 2.5-slot graphics cards that are up to 320 mm long. This means you do not need a PCIe ribbon cable, which can add a considerable expense to your build, especially if you opt for a PCIe 4.0 one. With the PSU facing this way, DarkFlash meant this side of the rear to be clear of components. There is an internal, angled power cable in place already, so you should have no issues routing this outlet to the top of the DLH 21.


On the main side is a bracket for two 120 mm fans or, alternatively, a 240 mm radiator. DarkFlash also allows you to install a 3.5" drive to the bottom half instead if you like. On the opposite side are several hooks for zip ties, with the bottom half for your SFX or SFX-L PSU.


Two dedicated and removable 2.5" drive trays are attached to the PSU bracket, and if you look closely, you will see additional hooks for cable routing on top of that housing as well, which is a nice touch. The PSU can be inserted from the side, so even with a fully built system, getting to the power supply should be possible. The unit is meant to rest on two thick foam pads as an anti-vibration measure.


Looking at the ceiling, there is a thin 92 mm 3-pin unit set to push hot air out the top of the case. The rest of this space is for the ITX motherboard, which rests on four pre-installed spacers.


All the cables within the DarkFlash DLH 21 are sleeved black and short enough to stay out of the way, but also long enough to reach their motherboard connectors. An expandable SATA-powered RGB controller is built into the base of the chassis. It is controlled by a dual-pin cable that is wired to the LED button in the ceiling and still labeled "reset." You may use generic RGB components or opt for motherboard control.