Disassembly

Most plastic-only keyboards are harder to disassemble than metal case variants, and the Durgod Taurus K320 is no different. Begin by taking a thin, flat object to pry apart the two-piece plastic case construction held together via interlocking tabs. This can cause dents or worse to the case, so only disassemble this keyboard if you absolutely have to. Once done, there are six Philips head screws, some under keycaps, which hold the PCB piece in place on the bottom case panel.


An internal USB cable connects the USB Type-C connector of a daughter PCB on the ABS plastic bottom case panel to the PCB, and dislodging it finally separates all three main pieces of the keyboard. A Durgod logo on the plastic panel shows that this is not really a rebrand of another keyboard, and a plastic sheet on the corner of the black PCB presumably adds support to the USB connector and prevents electrical shorting if the wiring inside gets exposed.


Solder quality is really good here, although there may be more flux than necessary, and the switches are soldered through the plate and onto the PCB. There is also a sneakily hidden reset button in a hole underneath one of the keyboard feet on the back. Powering the keyboard is an STM32F070RB 32-bit ARM Cortex-M0 Cores-based USB microcontroller with 128 KB on-board flash memory and 16 KB SRAM. This is a lower-end microcontroller built with a strict price range in mind, and Durgod is using it to save on cost of materials no doubt. As such, do not expect a lot of complex controls, but it was plenty enough to power static/dynamic per-key 16.8 M RGB lighting on the Durgod Venus, and no doubt also the backlit versions of the Taurus K320. All the components, including the switches, LEDs, and tantalum capacitors, are soldered to a multi-layered PCB.

Before we move on, be advised that disassembly may void the warranty and that TechPowerUp is not liable for any damages incurred if you decide to go ahead and do so anyway.