Review System

Assembly

Installing the motherboard within the HYTE Revolt 3 is quite easy. The PSU cables are just long enough, and while the CPU power lead seems a tad too short in the picture above, this was simply due to a bit of a cable mess underneath the PSU cover. Once cleaned up, the cable was wrapped around the DDR4 memory and stayed clear of the board's center.


Adding a 3.5" drive required removing the aforementioned PSU cover to connect power and data once it is secured in place with screws. While you should still be able to get to this drive by simply flipping open the AIO cover, it is a bit of work to swap out, especially as you would still need to disconnect it, which potentially means removing the GPU.


Adding SSDs, on the other hand, is quite quick and easy. Simply screw down the rubber rings with the screws provided and slide the drive into one of two provided slots. As you can see, the iBuyPower PSU comes with special SATA power plugs that clip into place, so you won't have to worry about them unplugging.


With the storage and board in place, the 280 mm AIO doesn't take a lot of effort thanks to the flip-open mounting bracket. You should start by screwing the base down onto CPU socket as the AIO will block access to screws once in place. Once everything is secured, simply flip it down and screw the bracket back in place. The area around the CPU is quite clear, and I was able to secure the tubing with a well-placed zip-tie to where nothing was touching the fans, either.


Lastly, adding a long GPU is actually a breeze as well. With the PSU cover in place, you don't have to worry about any cable mess getting in the way, so even big and thick cards will fit without any additional surprises.


With everything installed and the HYTE Revolt 3 upright again, you can see that the GPU still has plenty of room towards the top of the chassis. Both the PSU and now filled 3.5" bay are in the rear. As you can see, a few red zip ties hold the leads for the fans in place and the tubing of the AIO away from the fans themselves.


Both sides are covered by either the radiator or the motherboard tray. That said, both the CPU cooling and the PSU will have direct access to outside air as well.


Before putting the exterior panels back in place, you can secure any excess cables from the front I/O off to the side thanks to a well-placed set of hooks for zip ties. If you look closely, the audio cable has not been connected as the Gigabyte ITX board we use no longer offers such a header.

Finished Looks

When turned on, the system is nice and quiet, naturally in part due to the fact that a massive 280 mm radiator is being used to cool the CPU, pushing air out the side of the case through the radiator. A white LED lights up the power button nicely to let you know the system is on.


Looking at the front, you can see the LEDs of the GPU through the mesh panel. Replacing it with the special copper-colored one is easy and only requires you to remove two screws to detach the installed one. I must say, this two-tone color scheme looks quite spiffy!


The built-in headset hook is really useful too. Unfortunately, I have no full-sized units at my disposal, but it also does just fine with classic in-ears as it means they aren't cluttering up your space when not used.


Looking at all the other panels, you can see some of the glow of the LEDs from within as well. The secondary layers within the chassis act as dust filters, and they do block some of the view and will restrict airflow, resulting in warmer temperatures. But that is to be expected from most cases of this size.


That said, HYTE advertises the fact that you could remove all the secondary metal mesh dust filter panels to improve airflow and, thus, the thermals of the Revolt 3 as well. By removing them, you can suddenly clearly look into the interior of the case as well. This could improve thermals and even lower noise quite a bit, so we will run our tests in that configuration as well.