Build Quality

Overall build quality is very solid. There is no rattle when shaking the mouse. When applying lateral pressure, no creaking or flexing of the shell can be observed. Activating the side buttons by squeezing the sides is impossible. Lastly, accidental clicks when slamming down the mouse do not occur.

Buttons

Main buttons on the DeathAdder V3 Pro are very good. Both pre and post-travel are moderate, but button response is firm and snappy nevertheless. While the buttons are visually separated from the shell, lateral button movement is minimal and needs to be provoked. Button stiffness is medium. A pair of Razer-branded 3rd-generation optical switches are used.


Side buttons are very good. Both pre and post-travel are very low, resulting in a very satisfying button response. However, the back button in particular sounds rather odd. The pressure point is even across the entirety of these. Button placement is good as actuation is possible very easily by rolling one's thumb across. A set of surface-mounted switches (white plunger) from CF (ChangFeng) is used for these.

Underneath the mouse is a single button which either cycles through the set CPI levels if pressed briefly or turns the mouse on or off if pressed and held, which works well. A seemingly unbranded tactile switch is used for this one.

Scroll Wheel

The scroll wheel is very good. Noise levels are fairly low, but tactility is merely decent, resulting in smooth but not particularly controlled scrolling. The encoder comes from RAESHA (gray, orange core) and has a height of 15 mm. Actuating the middle (scroll wheel) click requires medium force. A seemingly unbranded elevated tactile switch is used for this one.

Surface

The DeathAdder V3 Pro has a slightly roughened matte surface. Grip is fine, and it doesn't attract fingerprints, dirt, or the likes too easily. It is easy to clean, and there are no signs of wear left after doing so. All in all, excellent materials.

Button Sound Test

Disassembly

Disassembling the DeathAdder V3 Pro is easy. First, the rear skate and three Torx T6 screws underneath need to be removed. Before the top and bottom shell can be separated, two clips at the sides need to be dislodged, which is best done by wedging a credit card in. When lifting the top shell, the ribbon cable at the front may be removed from its socket, which is easily remedied by inserting it again.

The internal design is highly efficient. The side buttons sit on their own PCB connected to the main PCB through a ribbon cable and vertically slotted into a plastic assembly that is part of the bottom shell. The LED at the front likewise is connected through a ribbon cable. Everything else sits on the compact main PCB, which is very thin to save as much weight as possible. Four screws in total are used to affix the PCB to the bottom. The MCU is a Nordic nRF52840, whose datasheet can be found here.


As for the soldering and general quality of the PCBs, I'm unable to find any noteworthy flaws.