Build Quality

Overall build quality is solid. There is no rattle when shaking the mouse. When applying lateral pressure, minor creaking but no flexing of the shell can be observed. Activating the side buttons by squeezing the sides requires excessive force. Lastly, no accidental clicks occur when slamming down the mouse, even with debounce time set to 2 ms.

Buttons

Main buttons on the Light² 180 are excellent. Pre-travel is very low and post-travel is low, resulting in a firm and snappy button response. In fact, the buttons are some of the firmest I've encountered in quite a while, to where some may find them too stiff. Tactility is very much comparable to older Zowie releases, so those fond of the old ZA or FK clicks should feel right at home. For what it's worth, the rigidity mainly comes from the shell, not the switches themselves. While the buttons are visually separated from the shell, lateral button movement is as low as physically possible. A set of Omron D2FC-F-7N (20M) (OF) switches is used.


Side buttons are excellent. Both pre and post-travel are low, resulting in a firm and satisfying button response. The pressure point is even across the entirety of these buttons. Button placement is good as actuation is possible very easily by rolling one's thumb across. A pair of Huano switches (yellow plunger) is used here.

At the top of the mouse is a single button for cycling through the set CPI levels. Its click feel is good. Another Huano switch (yellow plunger) is used for this one. A slider on the bottom of the mouse controls polling rate and works fine as well.

Scroll Wheel

The scroll wheel is very good. Scrolling up or down doesn't produce much noise, but tactility is merely above average even though the individual steps are still well-separated. The encoder comes from F-Switch. The middle (scroll wheel) click requires medium force for actuation. Another Huano switch (blue plunger) is used here.

Coating

The Light² 180 has a smooth matte surface all over. It doesn't attract fingerprints, dirt, or the likes too much. It is easy to clean, and there are no signs of wear left after doing so. All in all, excellent materials.

Button Sound Test

Disassembly

Disassembling the Light² 180 is easy. Remove the large rear skate and the two screws underneath. The front is merely clipped in, but releasing it may require above average force. When doing so, make sure not to rip the cable connecting the side button and main PCB. The internal design is pretty simple. While the side buttons sit on their own PCB screwed into the top shell and connected to the main PCB with a 3-pin JST plug, everything else rests on the main PCB. The main PCB is surprisingly large, but fairly thin to save weight. Curiously, the bottom shell and PCB have a cutout for a wireless dongle, which of course serves no purpose on a wired mouse. Three screws in total are used to affix the PCB to the bottom shell. The MCU is a WTU301 N36C-C 2032-C, which previously has seen use on the Sharkoon Light² 100/200 as well as several Xtrfy releases.


As for the soldering and general quality of the PCB, I'm unable to find any noteworthy flaws.