Friday, February 14th 2020
ModMyMods Launches ModWater PC Watercooling Coolants Produced in the USA
ModMyMods rose out of the proverbial ashes from the meltdown of FrozenCPU, a PC hardware boutique in upstate New York that catered primarily to custom watercooling. While FrozenCPU is back up and running in some form today, people in the northern states and along the east coast of the US have become accustomed to having a local resource for PC modding and cooling supplies with the Rochester-based ModMyMods. We met representatives from the company at CES this year where they showed off their upcoming line of coolants for DIY custom loops, aptly named ModWater. They anticipated a launch in March at the time, but have managed to churn out enough in the month since to release these for sale as of the time of this news post.
The company tells us that ModWater is the result of over an year of work that began with the making of ultra-pure water from an in-house designed purification system with a series of processing to bring down the final TDS (total dissolved solids) value to <0.05 ppm. They are separately selling this water in 5 US gallon tanks for system integrators, but the retail customer will not doubt be interested in the coolants themselves that come in Pure-Clear, and several UV-Reactive colors including: Red-UV, Green-UV, Blue-UV, and Clear-UV (Blue base UV). The coolants ship in 1 liter containers for $9 each in bottles that are shaped similar to motor oil bottles, with a spout design to help pour the coolant out. The coolants, as expected these days, has additives for anti-corrosion properties with biocide and fungicide activity as well. If you are interested, here's the collective link for the product pages.
The company tells us that ModWater is the result of over an year of work that began with the making of ultra-pure water from an in-house designed purification system with a series of processing to bring down the final TDS (total dissolved solids) value to <0.05 ppm. They are separately selling this water in 5 US gallon tanks for system integrators, but the retail customer will not doubt be interested in the coolants themselves that come in Pure-Clear, and several UV-Reactive colors including: Red-UV, Green-UV, Blue-UV, and Clear-UV (Blue base UV). The coolants ship in 1 liter containers for $9 each in bottles that are shaped similar to motor oil bottles, with a spout design to help pour the coolant out. The coolants, as expected these days, has additives for anti-corrosion properties with biocide and fungicide activity as well. If you are interested, here's the collective link for the product pages.
27 Comments on ModMyMods Launches ModWater PC Watercooling Coolants Produced in the USA
i only put synthetic in mine :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
See below: Just add water. Be sure to throw out first 1/5 of distillate or filter the water beforehand or both. Still be much cheaper than $30/gal.
Jokes aside, I'm glad to have belatedly found out this FrozenCPU history. They, along with jab-tec, were always a go-to before I arrived at "meh, my current build is still good enough" some years ago.
Most home made distilled water is acidic ... as is most bottled stuff. Distilled water is supposed to have a pH of 7.0 .... good luck with that. Immediately upon being exposed to air, the pH of distilled water decreases rapidly, becoming more acidic. It won't stabilize till it gets to around 5.5 or 5.6. The carbonic acid made from the CO2 reaction breaks down a pair of unstable ions looking to make bonds ... that would be with the metals inside your loop. Neutralizing distilled water is possible, but not in your kitchen and even if ya get close, its neutral pH does not last. Can ya make it yaself ? Sure... start with building a CO2 free chamber
There are cheaper alternatives.
Your best bet is filtered deionized water; it wont eat metals.
Run DI water thru a drinking water filter that is unused; as long as it's only activated carbon, it will be as good as you can get.
Tapwater is better in your system than distilled pure water; it's at least saturated with metals, and won't absorb more.
As long as there's no metals in your system more active than what's dissolved already, they won't come out of solution.
Chemistry is hard for most people. :D
I agree JN, most of what you read is wrong on the internet. :)
Seconds the car industry proved that using tap water mixing with coolant concentrate caused pump failures. There are too much particles in it also. I am not wanting even touch the Water fluoridation topic also.
No one said it was using plain DI. Adding your preferred additives to rise PH and kill the flora and fauna developing. For making a coolant mixture as a base distilled water is perfect.
If your local tapwater is hard water, it might precipitate Calcium if you let the anti-freeze go over ~3 years, otherwise it's not going to be a problem with all the additives.
I run 10% green prestone in tapwater, have for the last 30+ years with no ill effects.
And I don't see precipitate in the engines I've upgraded when I take them apart, either.
I do use distilled water in the battery; that is different chemistry; chlorine is bad.
BTW, if you have a water softener, you do not want to use tapwater for anything; Salt is added to it to change the hardess, and it corrodes everything.
www.amazon.com/Morton-Salt-F124700000g-Protect-Softener/dp/B0735G11F3
I have two iron blocks in the garage, and one aluminum one on the stand being built.
I have multiple sets of heads; other than valves being bent thru them in one case, none showed any problems in the water passages. :)
Not even discoloration.
There were no deposits in the engines I disassembled at all. Net even etching patterns.
These were 4.6l V8 engines, both with over 250k miles.
Amazingly enough, the bearings were not worn past the limits of the original shipping tolerances; they were good for another 200k+.
They were removed to replace them with more modern engines, a 98 Teksid DOHC and a 99 PI engine.
I saved the blocks, just in case I want to build something with them in the future.
These engines have Iron, aluminum, bronze, and stainless steel in the coolant systems; using at least 10% antifreeze will keep any corrosion from happening at all.
When they go to the dragstrip, they have to be drained, flushed, and filled with only water, per track rules; There's a $500 charge to clean antifreeze or oil off the track.
Tap water is way less corrosive than distilled water, as I said above.
Tap water contains dissolved metals, where pure water wants to eat metal.
What else would you be thinking might be affected? I'm curious.
BTW, you can test the action of your coolant additives with a voltmeter.
I've done it a few times in times of 'emergency' sort of say, hell we even pissed into the radiator one day because of lack of water nearby (and it worked lol) but again an engine is more confident with running on coolant thats bin given by the manufactor (for a reason, not just $).
1.) cheap
2.) specifically designed for high heat and antioxidation
3.) lasts 150k miles in an ICE, so lifetime in a PC
4.) compatible with every possible metal, alloy and plastic you'll use it with
5.) cheap
6.) comes in multiple colors
A gallon of long life concentrate (which works perfectly with tap water, it won't precipitate) is 10 bucks.
Heck I use distilled H20 from a local distiller and an ounce of Colloidal Silver (from the health store) in my loop. it's been over 3 years and no issues at all. The rez is crystal clear as day one, and I don't bother with dyes. I just buy the colored hose I want beit UV reactive or not.