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3D Printer Club

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It looks like my issue with shrinkage in ABS is caused by not enough chamber heat. I've tried soaking the chamber by leaving the bed preheated to100° C for an extended period, but that only gets it to about 35° C (used the hot end thermistor as a makeshift ambient probe). I'll have to figure out a safe way to preheat the chamber and manage the temperature to lengthen the cooling time, but I'll save that for later since I have some other parts I want to produce. I'll just use PLA+ for now and come back to the other high-heat materials.

I also found a firmware update for my Ender 3v2 that is much more robust than the Creality firmware, so I'll flash that and add an Micro Swiss direct drive hotend, a BLT sensor, and maybe a couple other minor upgrades to make that more useful.
 
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20240910_140508.jpg

Different spool holder, now with ball bearings. I had them laying around doing nothing. I can use the original for another project.
-
And I made a Draft Excluding plate. Not really needed for PLA but I might in the future mess with ABS.
SeKazIZ.jpeg_2024-09-10.jpg

It sits just behind the display.
dJzabRS.jpeg_2024-09-10.jpg


And lastly I FINALLY bought some grey filament.
 

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  • 20240910_140330.jpg
    20240910_140330.jpg
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de.das.dude

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View attachment 362755
Different spool holder, now with ball bearings. I had them laying around doing nothing. I can use the original for another project.
-
And I made a Draft Excluding plate. Not really needed for PLA but I might in the future mess with ABS.
View attachment 362759
It sits just behind the display.
View attachment 362760

And lastly I FINALLY bought some grey filament.
you should print cylinders laying on one end so the axis is vertical, it gives a better finish.
 
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Since my chamber doesn't get warm enough even under full printing heat, I'm making a ghetto-fabulous enclosure heater to try for better high temp prints. I'll have to construct a mount to hold it up and I'll design and print a mount for the thermostat outlet so I can have it up on the desk with a short extension cord. I also ordered a couple of spools of PLA+ since I'm low on that. I've also tweaked my slicer settings to cut my print times in half and I haven't even gotten to input shaping and a high flow nozzle for the SV06. I also have some 0.1mm thick washers coming that I can use to help level out my bed mesh.

500W heater.jpg
thermostat outlet.jpg
 
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you should print cylinders laying on one end so the axis is vertical, it gives a better finish.
In the future I will, but with a bit of sanding and the fact it hidden by the spool I didn't mind it.
--
Since my chamber doesn't get warm enough even under full printing heat, I'm making a ghetto-fabulous enclosure heater to try for better high temp prints. I'll have to construct a mount to hold it up and I'll design and print a mount for the thermostat outlet so I can have it up on the desk with a short extension cord. I also ordered a couple of spools of PLA+ since I'm low on that. I've also tweaked my slicer settings to cut my print times in half and I haven't even gotten to input shaping and a high flow nozzle for the SV06. I also have some 0.1mm thick washers coming that I can use to help level out my bed mesh.
Or you could just blast the heat from PC into your 3D printer :D
 
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Or you could just blast the heat from PC into your 3D printer :D

Haha, there's about 8 feet separating the desks. I think this will be slightly easier.
 

de.das.dude

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HVAC ducting :cool:
That might come into play with the heater, depending on if it likes sitting in 50-70° C. I'd rather keep it inside so none of the energy is wasted warming the room.
 
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20240911_132708.jpg

Schiit Stack Brackets, these are better for keeping this schiit together.
--
20240911_091154.jpg

Cali Cats in various sizes.
--
20240912_120502.jpg

Skull with a white banana for scale.
 

de.das.dude

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i have that flexi cat printed but at a smaller scale, it lies on top of my monitor. haha
 
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Made a germination thingy


planted basil and putting it on my heated bed :D
 
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Redesigned this after making some adjustments for shrinkage so my final print comes out accurate to model dimensions. I've cut the print time from 8 hours to 4 hours and I haven't even gotten to adding an accelerometer and doing input shaping/resonance calibration or adding the high flow nozzle.

1726342857544.png
 
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0915241402_HDR.jpg


I need to redo the trim ring (gunmetal silver surround for the factory vent) to complete the OEM-ish look. I made it slightly too big, but I'm my defense it was 3am.
 
Last edited:

de.das.dude

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Like a glove. Now to build out the rest to hold the RPi and the controller together as an assembly. (Sensor opening was a bit deep, but I don't mind using less filament.)
20240918_114805.jpg
20240918_114814.jpg
 
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25% done with the Hive containers. So now on to Polymaker Red/Black filament
20240918_081516.jpg20240918_172946.jpg
 
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I'm going to test fit the base and then join both into a single assembly once I've made any tweaks I need to. My knock-off high flow, hardened steel nozzles are stateside, so I should have those by early next week at the latest. I can then start printing with my CF filament (CF filament eats up brass) and build the stuff to hold my heater and the temp probe from the controller. I keep most of my RPi4s in these aluminum brick cases, so that's what it'll be sitting on.

1726805806831.png
1726806058834.png
 

de.das.dude

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I just remembered.... I am a case modder lmmao. Printed some fan grills aperture science style.
20240920_122105.jpg


20240920_122127.jpg
 

Frick

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View attachment 363521

I need to redo the trim ring (gunmetal silver surround for the factory vent) to complete the OEM-ish look. I made it slightly too big, but I'm my defense it was 3am.

I could google what "knock retard" is what I'm not going to.
 

de.das.dude

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I could google what "knock retard" is what I'm not going to.
advance your spark time before it detonates due to compression.

what
View attachment 363521

I need to redo the trim ring (gunmetal silver surround for the factory vent) to complete the OEM-ish look. I made it slightly too big, but I'm my defense it was 3am.
what do hickey are you using? i use a obd2 reader with the torque app on my spare phone. I mount it to my dash with a normal phone mount.

20240104_182120.jpg
 
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advance your spark time before it detonates due to compression.

what

what do hickey are you using? i use a obd2 reader with the torque app on my spare phone. I mount it to my dash with a normal phone mount.

View attachment 364102

That's a Cobb Tuning Accessport in the photo. It does ECU flashing and data logging/display.
 

Count von Schwalbe

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advance your spark time before it detonates due to compression.
I was going to say it was a very particular type of driver that we must attempt to avoid...
 
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My paper thin metal washers arrived so I can hopefully lessen the deformity of my bed mesh. I've also grabbed some more things to make my prints more modular/easier to print out. Threadserts, flathead screws, and press with a soldering iron/tips.

1726928037178.png
1726928086411.png
1726928110474.png
 
Last edited:
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System Name Merc v8| Project DRS
Processor Ryzen 7800X3D|5800X
Motherboard Gigabyte X670 Gaming X AX|B550 AORUS ELITE
Cooling Noctua NH-D15|Arctic LFII-360
Memory 2x 16GB-6000|2x16GB-3600
Video Card(s) MSI RTX 4070 Ti SUPER|RTX 3070 Ventus
Storage Solidigm P44 1TB & 2TB, Crucial MX500 2TB|2x1TB SSD
Display(s) Acer Predator XB271HU|LG 34GP950G
Case Caselabs Mercury S8|Phanteks G500A
Audio Device(s) Schiit Magni & Modi, Edifier S351DB|DT 770 PRO headphones
Power Supply Seasonic Vertex PX-850|Prime TX-750
Mouse Logitech G600
Keyboard Epomaker F75|Logitech K400
Software W11Pro
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