Disassembly

I will say right away that disassembling the Ajazz K620T keyboard is incredibly tough, be it the original or this 2.0 version. So much so that I had to stop midway as you will see. It uses a two-piece plastic case construction, so disassembly starts innocently enough by using a thin, flat object to pry apart several interlocking plastic tabs all around the edges. The volume wheel knob needs to be pulled out as well to remove the top panel piece, and we can see a much smaller wheel that the cover goes over. Now, if all went well, there are just a few screws under keycaps that you need to remove to get a better look at the PCB. The first couple of screws on the right side were fine, but then I got to the first hidden screw on a daughter PCB hosting the volume wheel encoder mechanism, and this mechanism is connected to the primary PCB because of the wheel, so you need to remove both at the same time.


I thought I had removed all the screws only to realize there is another screw, and accessing this one is impossible unless you remove the washer and nut holding the volume wheel secure on the primary PCB, and in turn the daughter PCB. The nut here is quite shallow with minimal horizontal space for a wrench, at least with any I had on hand. It was at this point that I gave up lest I make things worse, so there you go. Epomaker says that the keyboard is intentionally made this way to discourage user-disassembly in case they mess up something, but I still don't like it.


The incomplete disassembly does reveal the indicator LEDs on the other side of the PCB facing the user, which is also where the other RGB LEDs are placed. Indeed, and this is because of the absence of a manual and lack of communication thus far, I wasn't even aware of the hot-swappable switches before since the box had a different model name and a switch remover also hadn't been included with this pre-release sample. That said, some online research did reveal plans for this model late last year. So I had to use a third-party tool to remove one of the switches to confirm the LED here, as well as the 3-pin switch design (2 contacts + 1 guide pin). Also, if you were wondering about the battery size, Ajazz is using the same 4400 mAh battery as with the original K620T. That's still really good and well above average for wireless mechanical keyboards.


This section would have normally been on the previous page, but the extremely short disassembly page and how I found out about the removable switches made me move it here instead. The Ajazz Firstblood Pink switch is based on the Cherry MX switch design, with a crosspoint up top for MX-style keycap compatibility, a pink-colored stem/slider, and the aforementioned 3-pin design that allows for most Cherry/Gateron switches to be used as well. As you might have guessed, the Ajazz Firstblood Blue switch has a blue stem.


Taking the switch apart is fairly easy in that it is no different from any other of this type and just requires a thin, flat object to pry apart the interlocking plastic tabs. We see a typical layout with a transparent top, the pink stem, a metal spring, and the housing that has the metal leaves which make contact as the stem travels down to initiate actuation. As such, the actuation and feedback mechanisms are interconnected, as with most switches today except for some, such as the Kailh BOX switch.

Before we move on, be advised that disassembly may void the warranty and that TechPowerUp is not liable for any damages incurred if you decide to go ahead and do so anyway. We may not have gone the whole way here, but that does not mean it might not have voided the warranty.