Buttons, Scroll Wheel

Main buttons on the Ironclaw RGB Wireless are fantastic, just like on the wired version. They're relatively light, yet very tactile and spammable, with no unnecessary play or travel. The switches are Omron D2FC-F-K models with a nominal lifespan of 50 million clicks.


Scrolling feels a tad better than on the previous version, but it's still slightly too loose for my taste. The steps are moderately well separated and have some tactility, but sure could be better. It's more suitable for heavy scrolling than precise use.


As for the scroll button, it requires a lot of force to actuate. Heavier middle clicks are common on gaming mice, but the Ironclaw definitely features one of the stiffest switches I've tried so far. It's a flat square switch without any branding on it, so I can't tell its exact model.


Side buttons have changed compared to the previous model. There are now three (or five, depending on your point of view) of these—they feel surprisingly good, too! The standard side-facing buttons are light and hardly have any travel, and they don't have any play or rattle, either. These have SMD tactile switches underneath.


The top side button, which faces upward, is a bit different; it's way louder, but its initial click-feel is very similar to the other two. It uses a blue-plunger tactile switch of some sort.


The buttons I usually call CPI changers are now profile changers by default in the software. These have a rather mushy and slightly stiffer click-feel than on the predecessor. They also have some unnecessary pre-travel.


Lastly, the actual CPI buttons (located next to the left mouse button) are great; they feel very tactile, can be spammed with ease, and are light. Both these and the profile switchers use the same 2-legged Kailh micro switches.

Here's a video demonstration of how the buttons sound:

Mouse Feet

Protective film you should remove before use has been put on the mouse feet. The mouse feet are great—they have a very smooth glide with relatively little friction and well-rounded contact points. Kudos to Corsair for upping their mouse skate game, although at $80, it is a shame that there are no replacement feet in the box.

Cable

Moving on to the cord, it's rather horrendous if you ask me, just like with the wired model. It's heavy, thick, and very stiff, so if you use the mouse while charging, I would definitely advise affixing it somehow or getting a bungee for it. It is1.8 m long, which should be more than enough for most users.

Disassembling

Taking this mouse apart will require a T6X40 (or similar) Torx-head screwdriver as there are two Torx-head screws beneath both mouse feet at the bottom. This makes disassembly different to the previous model that didn't feature any screws beneath its skates. Once these Torx-head screws are out, you can dispart the two main shells, which took quite a lot of backward wiggling of the top shell. Be careful not to tear any internal cabling, of which there's quite a lot.