Build Quality

Overall build quality is solid. There is no rattle when shaking the mouse. When applying lateral pressure, significant creaking but no flexing of the shell can be observed. Activating the side buttons by squeezing the sides is impossible. Lastly, accidental clicks when slamming down the mouse do occur regularly if debounce time is set to 0 ms and very rarely if debounce time is set to 2 ms.

Unless noted otherwise, all descriptions apply to both samples I've received.

Buttons

Main buttons on the Model I are very good (left button) to lackluster (right button). While the left main button has some pre and moderate post-travel, button response is firm and snappy. The right main button, on the other hand, has slightly less travel, but a much worse click feel. Not only is the response dull and muted, the button also emits a rather irritating "thunk" upon rebound, which gets louder and sharper the farther to the back the button is actuated. Despite the buttons being visually separated from the shell, lateral button movement is minimal and needs to be provoked. Button stiffness is medium. A set of Kailh GM 8.0 (80 M) switches is used.


Side buttons are poor. The front side button has comparatively low pre-travel, but post-travel is massive to where the button can be pushed into the mouse almost in its entirety. The middle side button has equally massive post-travel, coupled with significant pre-travel, resulting in a mushy and spongy response. The back side button has less pre and post-travel than the middle button, albeit still a significant amount of either. The sniper button is the sole exception to this, as both pre and post-travel are minimal. The three side buttons bulge outward significantly, which makes it easier to tell them apart by feel, but does make actuation by rolling one's thumb across more difficult. Huano switches (green plunger) are used for all of these.


The sniper and back side buttons are magnetic and can be swapped for a higher or lower profile alternative. With the latter installed, the button can no longer be actuated, which can be useful if their placement is found to be irritating. Removing the magnetic side buttons without an external tool can be difficult.

At the top of the mouse are two buttons for cycling up and down through the set CPI levels. Their click feel is good. A pair of low-profile TTC switches (blue plunger) is used for these.

Scroll Wheel

The scroll wheel is excellent. Noise levels are appreciably low, and tactility is great, with clearly discernible steps and a matching tactile feel while scrolling. The encoder comes from F-Switch (brown, green core) and has a height of 12.6 mm. The middle (scroll wheel) click requires medium force for actuation. Another Huano switch (green plunger) is used for this one.

Surface

The Model I has a smooth matte surface all over. It doesn't attract fingerprints, dirt, or the likes too much. It is easy to clean, and there are no signs of wear left after doing so. All in all, excellent materials.

Button Sound Test

Disassembly

Disassembling the Model I is moderately difficult. First, remove the two rear skates and the thumb rest one, along with the screws beneath them. Once those are taken care of, simply pop the top and bottom shells apart, which are kept together by two clips at the front and two on the sides. Some caution ought to be applied as a ribbon cable connects top and bottom. The actual challenge comes from putting the whole thing back together. The top-shell PCB in particular will prove challenging.

The internal design is surprisingly complex. The main PCB is simple enough: Here we find the main buttons, scroll wheel and switch, MCU, and vertically mounted switch for the sniper button. An auxiliary PCB next to the scroll wheel provides wheel illumination. A ribbon cable leads to the top-shell PCB, which holds the CPI and remaining side buttons from which two additional ribbon cables lead to the LED side strips. The top-shell PCB is screwed into a plastic assembly, which itself is screwed into the top shell. Two additional plastic assemblies forming the side buttons are clipped into the top shell. All PCBs are very thin, and the main PCB is affixed with four screws in total. The MCU is a Holtek HT32F52352, whose datasheet can be found here.


As for the soldering and general quality of the PCB, I'm unable to find any noteworthy flaws.